http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3D http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23650&th=4519#msg_23650
http://www.shapeways.com/model/179838/earrings__wings.html?g id=ug56271



]]> unellenu 2011-02-10T09:14:49-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23652&th=4519#msg_23652 Spongeinside 2011-02-10T09:47:56-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23656&th=4519#msg_23656

I may polish them up a bit ,using a polishing lathe, but thought that I'd photograph them as Shapeways ships them.

Janelle.]]> unellenu 2011-02-10T11:39:11-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23678&th=4519#msg_23678
What kind of machine do you use to polish, and how is it at handling more delicate parts?]]> nancyliang 2011-02-10T16:03:56-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23704&th=4519#msg_23704
I was thinking of using a standard jewellery polishing lathe with polishing mops. I haven't tried polishing any stainless models before, so I'll let you know if it works or if any pieces break off.

Janelle]]> unellenu 2011-02-10T22:28:38-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23731&th=4519#msg_23731 "polishing mops" are not a good choice for polishing SS prints that have not first gone through an initial surface treatment, like "barrel tumbling"! This material is extremely hard, like tool steel. It is also extremely abrasive! Until the (as printed) surface or, bark is cut down, it will tear up any cotton wheels, mops or felt bobs that you have. Also know that in this relatively rough state, small parts tend to snag, very aggressively! So be careful if you still want to give it a try. Here are a few suggestions:

Carbide burrs and diamond based abrasives are the quickest and most economical way to cut, smooth, brighten, or polish printed SS parts! Some types of rubberized abrasive wheels and "non-woven" style abrasive pads and belts are also useful but not as effective as carbide & diamond. Carbide burrs can do deep cutting or just brighten surfaces. Diamond products come as wheels, burrs, hand files, lapping pastes and film backed papers. These are available from relatively coarse cutting, down to optical grades. The "import grade" of most diamond products is low in cost and they work very well in most applications. Higher grade materials cost more, but because they work so quickly and effectively they come out costing less than any material I have found.

I say all this after many years of trying just about every method and abrasive product available. Just be safe and have fun.

-G]]> GlenG 2011-02-11T21:12:38-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23734&th=4519#msg_23734
Images of the results follow....

& Glen G the extensive tips are appreciated!

I used polishing mops without shredding its cotton - I held the design flat whilst polishing to avoid snagging.
I've left the textured finish on the earrings and just brightened some of the non-recessed details.

I agree with your suggestions of rubberised abrasive wheels, diamond burrs etc too.

My process if I was wanting to spend more time to achieve a high level finish would probably start with wet and dry abrasive/ emery paper, and rubberised wheels to follow , with polishing mops for the finishing touches....If I eventually take the extra time to do this I'll upload pics of the results.

Although my current work is as a sales assistant , I am a trained jeweller & confident with a variety of jewelry tools, & I'm hopefully safety conscious enough too. Although I am grateful 4 the safety reminder.

Have a great one,
Janelle.



]]> unellenu 2011-02-12T08:36:32-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23736&th=4519#msg_23736 The partial polishing makes them look a bit antique ]]> Spongeinside 2011-02-12T10:46:32-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=23737&th=4519#msg_23737
You're right about the slightly antique or aged appearance too.

]]> unellenu 2011-02-12T10:51:17-00:00