http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3D http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52027&th=10372#msg_52027 The parts being developed are:
Tender body - done
Cab - done ( 2 versions, the mk.1 is in the photos )
Pilot - done
Air-pump - done
Chimney - done
Domes - done
Headlight - done
Bell - done

Some of these parts are available from other sources, I'm developing them because they are not easy to buy where I live.

Now for some pictures.First, a before and after comparison.Then some of a nearly finished model.




Next,I'll be showing how I did the conversion with the parts available so far.]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T14:02:09-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52032&th=10372#msg_52032
Some are still being developed (see first post).
I'll start with the locomotive.
Part 1.
Remove the body from the chassis, you need to remove the handrails from the rear of the cab and unclip the front steps from the smokebox.Pull the body up from the cab end and then push forward.The cab pulls off from the body.To remove the pilot,loosen the front screw on the keeper plate.This allows you to remove the pony truck,giving you access to the screw holding the pilot in place.The new pilot is a direct replacement for this.
You should have a pile of bits like this:

On the body,remove the chimney and domes (the rear one is held on by a screw).Remove the airpump and the foot board that went over it.

To allow the new cab to fit,a small part of the front of the footplate has to be removed.See below.

The pipes under the right side of the cab are cut back,as the new cab will be in the way.See above.

]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T15:47:20-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52033&th=10372#msg_52033 Test fit the parts.The new cab fits the same way as the original.

Now things can a bit complicated.If you refit the body onto the chassis, you'll find something sticking out where one of the new domes is to go.

(A hollow dome may be the answer here,I'll look into it).
This problem can be solved with a bit of bodging.Remove the body and the weight at the front of the chassis.Unless you plan the use it somehow,remove the lightboard from the front of the chassis,cutting the wires close to the joints.

The tabs projecting up can be broken off at the hole in them.This still leaves enough exposed metal for the wires to make contact.

Place the wires over the remains of the tabs and wedge something non-conducting in between them to hold them in place.I used a small piece of wood.
]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T16:02:17-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52035&th=10372#msg_52035 The completed chassis:

Refit the body and test fit the domes.

If you are happy with the fit of parts, it's on to the airbrake.
I used a piece of 0.5mm dia. brass rod to mount the airbrake onto the small block that the original one was mounted on.I drilled a small hole into the back side of the pump and glued the rod into it.

New footboards were made from 5mm wide strips of thin plastic card and glued onto the existing footboards.Some of the boiler side plumbing will need adjusting to make room for these.The arrow points to where the airpump will be mounted.

The domes and chimney can now be glued in place, filling any gaps around their bases.Now is the time to paint the separate parts before final assembly and glueing the airbrake in place.The parts here are unpainted so you can see them!

]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T17:02:21-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52038&th=10372#msg_52038 There are two options here:
1.The simpler option is use one of my tenders complete with trucks.Just add some weight and make a drawbar to connect it to the loco.
2.The more complicated one, which I shall detail here, is to use the donor tender chassis plus a new body.This has the advantage of retaining the all wheel pick-up of the original chassis.

Part.1
Some pics of the tenders alongside.



Remove the trucks and N gauge coupler.Remove the insert in the top of the body by pushing a screwdriver up through the rear truck pivot hole.Remove the weight.

Remove the footsteps from around the bottom of the chassis.]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T18:32:26-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52039&th=10372#msg_52039 Cut off the front of the body, using the first vertical row of rivets as a guide.The cut doesn't have to be neat,see next stage.

Cut off remaining three sides of the body, above the chassis.Take care not to damage the conductor strips inside.

Remove the small pillars at the corners.

Cut down the truck mounts so that they are flush with the small bits of plastic either side of them.Make a cut out at the rear for the Micro-Trains coupler.

Test fit into the body, make adjustments if needed.]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T18:41:43-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52040&th=10372#msg_52040 Remove the rear pillar from inside the upper insert.About 5mm will do.
Glue this onto the rear truck mount, top side of chassis.Use the mounting screw to hold it in place (centered).(I used plastic weld for this).

Glue some 1mm plastic card to top of chassis, between the conductive strips, to support the weight.I used part of the upper insert for this.

Glue the weight to this support.Refit the trucks and drawbar.

Mount a Micro-Trains 1015 coupler to the rear of the new body and place onto chassis.Make a lid for the rear toolbox from some thin plastic card.


That's it for now.Any Questions?
]]> pinddle 2012-07-28T18:53:09-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52051&th=10372#msg_52051 To get a smooth finish on the roof, the method I use is to paint (acrylic), and sand when dry.Repeat until a smooth finish is achieved.This photo was taken mid-process.
]]> pinddle 2012-07-29T10:08:59-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52678&th=10372#msg_52678 I'll post photos when I get around to fitting them.]]> pinddle 2012-08-15T22:06:00-00:00 http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=52795&th=10372#msg_52795



The light is painted silver on the inside.It has some micro krystal klear in the opening for the lens.There is room inside for a very small LED if you want to make it work.]]> pinddle 2012-08-17T22:41:41-00:00