Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3D
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Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3DRe: Make stamps by using Shapeways and Sugru
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66958&th=9772#msg_66958
Try CNC-Lasercutting instead. Works great! http://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/show-material/374-rubber -stamp-stamp-rubber-no-smell
I like Michael's method a lot since you can produce a lot of stamps once you have invested in the rather expensive mold.]]>Goede2013-04-27T17:16:31-00:00Millennium Puzzle Assembly Instructions
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66154&th=13845#msg_66154
Using superglue or a similar adhesive, glue the bottom edges of the 'Millennium Puzzle - Top' and slot it into the hole in the main Millennium Puzzle piece. Rotate 90 degress (so that the 'ledges' are now underneath the edge of the hole).
Picture guide to follow soon!]]>PeregrineStudios2013-04-15T17:13:17-00:00Re: Materials Infographic
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=64887&th=13476#msg_64887
Materials Comparison Sheet the kind of thing you're after?
]]>stop4stuff2013-03-26T08:58:16-00:00Materials Infographic
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=64673&th=13476#msg_64673
I have just received the Shapeways Material Sample Kit and it came with cool little cards showing all material details/uses.
It would be great to have all the information from these cards in one big infographic in a digital form.
]]>qetak2013-03-22T16:00:02-00:00Re: HO scale narrow gauge 25 foot cars
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=64443&th=10371#msg_64443
The model is printed with the body and chassis joined by some fine links.
Cut and remove these links and clean up the remaining parts.
There are 4 small holes in the floor to help with the truss-rods.
Here I have used E Z line, the ends are glued to the floor.
There are mounting points at each end for a brake wheel.
The body clips onto the chassis.]]>pinddle2013-03-19T19:09:43-00:00Fractured Tetrahedron Sticker Template
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=62483&th=12956#msg_62483
Pitcher2013-02-20T18:54:08-00:00Re: HO scale narrow gauge 25 foot cars
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=62347&th=10371#msg_62347
The body and chassis are linked together for printing by some small linking pieces.Cut through these to separate them, inside you will find the roofwalks.
There are no queenposts, but there are guides and holes for the truss-rods.
I've not got very far with this yet, the ladder is just a suggestion for the end.It needs lots of handrails and a handbrake wheel.
Note, on this prototype model the chassis was slightly too short, hence the cut-outs in the body sides.This has been corrected now.
See the next post for more useful info, the chassis is the same.]]>pinddle2013-02-18T22:54:13-00:00Instructions to my Ziller Valley Railroad models
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=61073&th=12620#msg_61073
here you can find the assembling instructions for my models in the shop.
Sorry, but I made them in German only. If you may have questions, please contact me and I'll help you.
Cheers, Gerd]]>Waldbahner2013-01-30T18:32:51-00:00Assembling The Claw
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=60923&th=12587#msg_60923
youtube link:
]]>naxem422013-01-28T01:38:21-00:00OctoCube Sticker Template
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=60723&th=12541#msg_60723
Pitcher2013-01-24T20:28:40-00:00Millennium Rod Assembly Instructions
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=60163&th=12395#msg_60163
Materials needed:
Sanding Paper / Kitchen Knife
Superglue
Gold Glossy Spray Paint
Black Modelling Paint
The Millennium Rod prop is very straightforward to assemble and chances are, you don't even need these instructions. But just in case you do, here we go.
The Millennium Rod is split into three models: the Top, the Bottom, and the Core. The Top and Bottom attach in the middle, and the Core serves as the... well, as the core, to maintain strength and prevent the seam between the Top and Bottom from being a weak point.
First, ensure the the Core is short enough. Sometimes, the model can elongate in the 3D printing process. In this case, you can use sanding paper to sand down the Core - or, as I did, simply use a kitchen knife (use a serrated blade and saw through - CAREFULLY!).
Squirt some superglue on the top and bottom ends of the Core, and also squirt some on the middle seam of the Top and Bottom. If you're interested in absolute maximum strength, you can also squirt some down the hollow inside of the Top and Bottom, but it's not really necessary.
Now you need simply attach the three parts together. Push the Core down the hollow Top until it hits the 'wall' - push it in firmly! Now slot the Bottom onto the Core until the Top and Bottom meet in the middle. Hold them firmly together for a good five minutes to make sure the glue has dried. Be careful with the model for the next few hours (or up to a day) to ensure that the glue has completely dried and cured.
I just used a Glossy Gold spray paint and black modelling paint for my model. However, you can use whatever painting method you prefer.]]>PeregrineStudios2013-01-14T02:49:02-00:00Decal Sheet for HO Scale Bushmaster
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=60127&th=12385#msg_60127
gvrocksnow2013-01-13T13:59:36-00:00Re: N scale Buda Wheel Stop Instructions
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=59532&th=12233#msg_59532
stonysmith2013-01-03T05:24:09-00:00N scale Buda Wheel Stop Instructions
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=59531&th=12233#msg_59531
http://www.shapeways.com/model/825438/buda-6-bolt-wheel-stop -n-scale-32pk.html
There is a greasy residue of the support material used for printing on the parts; it must be removed in order for paint to stick to them. The support material melts away under low heat; I first set the part on a piece of paper towel over a source of heated air (the top of a indoor gas stove or steam radiator works well; leave it on the dash of the car in summertime) and turn it frequently for 20-30 minutes.
For final cleaning I like to use pure acetone (the cheapest nail polish remover available with no moisturizers in it). I pour enough acetone in a small glass container to fully submerge the part; this container came with a snap-on plastic cover that eliminates any odor problems. I purchased both at the local Dollar store.
Leave the part submerged in the acetone for about 10-15 minutes. If you leave it in longer than that the parts may become soft - don't panic, just remove it from the dish and let it sit on a flat surface. The acetone will evaporate from the parts and they'll become rigid again in about 30 minutes. Wash the parts in warm water (make sure you don't lose any pieces down the drain) and let them sit and dry in the air. You can re-use the acetone; skim off the big globs of support material floating in the dish and pour the acetone back into the bottle to be used cleaning your next order.
Once the parts are clean they can be removed from the sprue. A precision sprue cutter like the Intermountain BB-1015 or Micro-Mark #82393 is the best tool to cut the parts from the support framework.
A magnifier is also very helpful, either desktop mounted or an Optivisor. Use the sprue cutter to cut the backs of the wheel stops from the sprue as shown in Step A. There's a notch in the sprue that will pull the sprue cutter against the back of the wheel stop and give you an almost perfectly clean cut.
Once the back of the wheel stop is cut free it can be wiggled like a loose tooth and broken loose from the centre sprue. This method usually leaves a bit of sprue on the face of the wheel stop that has to be cut or scraped off with the sprue cutter. For best results cut the X-bracing away from one end of the sprue and cut each wheel stop loose from the centre sprue as shown in Step B.
Paint the wheel stops (yellow is the most common color used in the real world). Use an airbrush for best results; place several wheel stops on a scrap piece of rail for a handle. If you brush paint them don't use too much paint and bury the surface detail.
Before placing them on the layout make sure the top and sides of the rail is clean - scrape off any paint or gunk where the wheel stop will be placed. Hold the wheel stop with your thumb on the front curved face and your first finger on the back. Place a tiny drop of glue (slow setting ACC or white glue) inside the slot on the bottom of the wheel stop; don't use too much or it'll ooze out and stick to your fingers. Press the front point of the wheel stop under your thumb down onto the rail. Holding the front tip in place on the rail rotate the back of the wheel stop downward onto the rail until the wheel stop is fully seated on the rail.
Repeat 31 times and you're done!]]>GWMT2013-01-03T05:11:59-00:00Spoorijzer KW13 1m3 skips (5) H0e compatible couplings
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=59496&th=12223#msg_59496
Should be bend out of 0.3~0.5 mm wire.]]>rickmulder2013-01-02T16:58:18-00:00Re: HO scale narrow gauge 25 foot cars
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=58844&th=10371#msg_58844
These are modified from ordinary boxcars.They have four windows added.Type A retains the original sliding doors.Type B has replaced this with new inset doors.
These pictures of the raw prints show how the roofwalk comes attached to the body.This must be removed before assembly.
Assembly method is the same as the other boxcars, except you will need some glazing material for the windows.
Finished models:
]]>pinddle2012-12-18T22:03:43-00:00Re: HO scale narrow gauge 25 foot cars
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=58843&th=10371#msg_58843
The test print suffered broken stirrups, which I replaced with metal rod.To try to prevent this happening again I have added some support material, which will need to be removed during assembly.
]]>pinddle2012-12-18T21:46:43-00:008th elephant's V-Tail Clam instructions
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=58255&th=11924#msg_58255
8th-elephant2012-12-08T21:21:27-00:00Decal Sheet for HO Scale CDCY
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=58118&th=11891#msg_58118
gvrocksnow2012-12-06T18:10:47-00:00Decal Sheet for HO Scale CQTY
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=57979&th=11857#msg_57979
gvrocksnow2012-12-04T21:34:39-00:00Re: how do you get earring hooks with prints?
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=57963&th=11832#msg_57963
But a few days ago I got a response that this was only a temporary offer and that they have run out of hooks now, so no more earring hooks for the foreseeable future.
However, it should be possible to get earrings hooks in any handicrafts shop that caters to hobby jewelers.
Greetings
Dragoman]]>Dragoman2012-12-04T16:51:23-00:00Re: how do you get earring hooks with prints?
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=57953&th=11832#msg_57953
Anyone?]]>duckandflea2012-12-04T12:05:27-00:00how do you get earring hooks with prints?
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=57893&th=11832#msg_57893
If I want to put some earrings in my shop, how do I include this as a feature? In other words, if shapeways sells my earrings, how do I make sure that they include earring hooks with the orders? Thank you.]]>Kathoms2012-12-03T03:42:07-00:00Mech modifications for QR DH
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=57432&th=11732#msg_57432
The mech used is an Athearn Blue Box S12 HO switcher.]]>gvrocksnow2012-11-25T16:41:20-00:00Fractured Cube Sticker Template
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=56236&th=11407#msg_56236
Pitcher2012-11-02T18:42:58-00:00
