Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3D
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Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3DRe: very smooth, high gloss finish with polished WSF
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68609&th=14372#msg_68609
durackdesign2013-05-24T09:35:06-00:00Re: Reinforcing Thin walls white plastic
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68577&th=14411#msg_68577
Danielruiz772013-05-23T23:10:20-00:00Re: Reinforcing Thin walls white plastic
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68574&th=14411#msg_68574
FreeRangeBrain2013-05-23T23:05:27-00:00Reinforcing Thin walls white plastic
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68558&th=14411#msg_68558
would it? and if so what would be a better reinforcing idea?]]>Danielruiz772013-05-23T16:45:15-00:00very smooth, high gloss finish with polished WSF
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68416&th=14372#msg_68416
Firstly just wanted to say what a great community! This forum seems to be really helpful and positive!
I just have a few quick questions when it comes to post processing polished WSF models. I know my questions have been asked in the past but I'm just interested in any updates.
Firstly it seems problems can be had due to the polishing process using soapy water and WSF's porous nature. It seems then if you try to paint or prime your model you could come into issues, as can be seen on this post:
I am looking to get a very smooth, glossy finish (much like an injection moulded part). I was hoping to achieve this by using polished WSF, then applying Tamiya white putty (made smoother by adding a small amount of nail polish remover containing acetone). I would then apply a few layers of spray primer, sanding every time. Finally I would then simply spray paint the model with a few coats of a glossy spray paint.
Has anybody in this community tried to achieve the same type of finish using polished WSF? And what successes and failures have you had?
Sorry for the bombarding of questions! I am just eager to learn and experiment as I'm sure you all are too!
I look forward to your replies and thank you in advance]]>durackdesign2013-05-21T08:49:40-00:00Re: molding
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68389&th=14361#msg_68389
I'm new with the materials and i don't know which one you mean when you wrote WSF or FUD.
Thank you again,
Omer.]]>omersianto2013-05-20T23:38:14-00:00Re: molding
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68374&th=14361#msg_68374
BillBedford2013-05-20T19:03:31-00:00molding
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=68371&th=14361#msg_68371
I want to print a jewelry model and after i want to send it for rubber or silicon mold.
Do some one know if i can use the Strong & Flexible Plastic so i will be able to send it for molding ? if not can some one recommend which material will be best for it?
Thank you for the help,
Omer.]]>omersianto2013-05-20T18:42:20-00:00premium silver
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67766&th=14208#msg_67766
I have a question. I'm getting married in a couple of months and designed our wedding rings. Now, I'm wondering if they will turn out OK if I order them in premium silver (if that's still available). Anyone here who has more experience ordering premium silver that would like to give some feedback on my model? My concern is if they can do a descent job on the polishing seeing there is a geometric relief on it. The model isn't perfect yet, but the screenshots will give a descent impression.
anyone?
]]>dionkieft2013-05-10T08:50:05-00:00Re: Stainless Steel Conductivity and soldering question.
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67512&th=14078#msg_67512
api9mm2013-05-06T01:13:32-00:00Re: Stainless Steel Conductivity and soldering question.
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67507&th=14078#msg_67507
When you say "silver solder" do you mean llow temp, lead free, silver bearing solder? Or do you mean hi temp, high silver solder?
The low temp soft solder works fine on this material just make sure the surfaces are clean and free of any protective lacquer. For hi temp soldering,
like jewelers or industrial silver solder you will need to use what is known as hi-temp "black" flux. This is a flouride based paste flux. Many jewelers and metalsmiths use the standard "white" flux but the black version gives you some extra headroom and works MUCH better on the ss print media.
The print media is a relatively poor heat conductor but this actually is not a bad thing when soldering because the heat from the torch stays localized.
Use a liberal amount of flux, if you paint it all over the piece you can avoid most or all of the heat scaling that normally occurs when you bring things to hi soldering temperature. Hope this helps? I thought i sent a responce to this question last week but it never showed up .]]>GlenG2013-05-05T22:17:16-00:00post production companies? mold or casting service?
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67495&th=14150#msg_67495
I'm looking for plastic or high impact resin.
thanks!
P.]]>fraochdha2013-05-05T17:39:50-00:00Re: Dyeing polished white strong and flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67391&th=13642#msg_67391
Top left: iDye Poly brown, nice and even, best brown yet.
Top right: iDye Poly Black, very dark and even, best black.
Bottom: iDye Poly Green, best green yet! I show this color above but before the dye concentration was too high.]]>gibell2013-05-03T13:35:02-00:00Re: Dying Strong and Flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67229&th=5907#msg_67229
also found this theard which maybe useful http://www.scalemodelguide.com/hints-tips/general/using-klea r-floor-varnish/]]>staticbuddha2013-05-01T09:38:10-00:00Stainless Steel Conductivity and soldering question.
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67198&th=14078#msg_67198
Does anyone have any experiences with using the Stainless option as a conductor as a as well as possibly for soldering? The application will be a conductive 1.5v battery cap under spring pressure. I'm hoping the properties would be similar to stainless in that regard. Also, any experiences regarding silver solder would be helpful.
Thanks
Ray]]>api9mm2013-04-30T21:17:32-00:00Re: FUD wax removal.
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67125&th=5438#msg_67125
i washed my last FUD-prints with some "nail polish remover" (without acetone) and then literally blown away the liquid with compresed air.
That works for me better than anything i tried before!
]]>niehage2013-04-30T09:39:31-00:00Re: Grit blasting
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67054&th=11979#msg_67054
Bob]]>pumpjet2013-04-29T13:30:37-00:00Re: Grit blasting
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67047&th=11979#msg_67047
dcyale2013-04-29T11:47:40-00:00Re: Dying Strong and Flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=67000&th=5907#msg_67000
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/35896-gu ys-i-may-have-found-a-replacement-for-futureklear/?hl=shine
The 7 on the 8-sided die seems to have an error, or maybe it was just awkwardly modeled, but other than that I'm looking forward to giving this gift.
Edit: In retrospect... I'm not sure if this was the best sub-forum for this post. If a mod thinks this would be better suited elsewhere, please feel free to move it. Thanks and sorry for any trouble!]]>imbusion2013-04-28T17:30:57-00:00Re: Dying Strong and Flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66981&th=5907#msg_66981
Thanks for the info, Im now thinking of going down the root of using acrylic paint and then using a sealant like you recommended
However I have been having trouble finding it here in the UK, but found this comment on another website:
It's changed it's name again. It's now called Pledge Multi-Surface Wax. I often use Klear as a sealer/varnish on polymer clay, but haven't as yet used the new one. I have been told that this new one hasn't changed in anyway from the old one - just a name change, but as I say I haven't used it yet so can't say if it behaves any differently.
Here's a link to it on SC Johnson's site so you know what you are looking for http://www.scjohnson.co.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=7864 I have been told that it isn't that easy to get hold of, but heard that Wilko's sell it. I got my last Klear in a largish Tesco, so they may also stock the new one.
I dont know if any one could confirm the link above is correct, you will need to copy and paste into a browser
However thansk to everyone posting info on this , I will update this post with any success and problem I come across to help others too.
Cheers
Speak soon.
Ps. My first big shapeway delivery is tomorrow according to UPS , I can not wait whoop whoop]]>staticbuddha2013-04-28T09:36:42-00:00Re: Dyeing polished white strong and flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66912&th=13642#msg_66912
Top left: Jacquard Acid 612 Lilac. Good color but a bit light. This is the only one that looks purple to me.
Top right: Jacquard Acid 613 Purple. Good color but is virtually identical to blue.
Bottom left: Jacquard Acid 614 Violet.. Slightly redder but still appears basically blue.
Bottom right: Jacquard Acid 623 Brilliant Blue.
This photo was taken outdoors. Under artificial light all 4 colors appear identical in a photograph!]]>gibell2013-04-26T15:22:11-00:00Re: Dying Strong and Flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66879&th=5907#msg_66879
1 & 4) Strong & Flexible (aka WSF) is porous in nature, sort of implied on the S&F materials page 'This material is not watertight' and will collect everyday dirt. And there's some good news, WSF is dshwasher safe, not sure about dyed & washing machines, but I should imagine that a low temperature, mixed coloureds wash would be ok. The cufflinks on a white shirt in a high temp wash wouldn't end up favourably for the shirt
There's another thread from a while back that mentions Klear floor sealer as a good clear sealant for WSF.
2) The best results I've had with acrylic paint is to use diluted artist acrylic paint. Quite a watery mix and dip the parts repeatedly lots of times. Less dilute acylic e.g. Humbrol spray paints go on as thicker coats, don't soak in as well and can chip or flake.
3) No experience, but I'd go with sealing the dyed part first before painting with acrylic.
I don't wear cufflinks. Remember though, that just about any kind geometry is possible with 3D printing technology and whether Nylon or Silver an unexpected twist to a design can make all the difference.
]]>stop4stuff2013-04-25T21:08:50-00:00Re: Dying Strong and Flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66873&th=5907#msg_66873
This is a fan thread and thanks for putting your comments on here, I shortly should be recovering some products from shapeways which I will either have to dye or paint and was just have a few questions
1) I recently received a prototype of a cufflink, I used a acrylic paint for the front as it has a few colours(white and orange) so I only painted the orange bit And as it comes in white I didn't touch the rest. However on testing ie. Wearing the shirt to work etc I found the white to pick up dirt from my desk and slowly over a few weeks looked a bit gruby. Has anyone had experience in sealing nylon, do you think I could use tent sealer? Has anyone got any ideas how to make the white stay fresh?
2) while wearing for a few weeks I also found that some of then acrylic paint scratched of, only tiny amounts as you can imagine that the cufflins hit the desk an. Again do you reckon a sealant may stop this
3) for some of the new cufflinks for example a Car I'm was thinking off dying red then maybe painting the wheels black with acrylic paint has anyone had experience of this?
4) I'm also concerned that if anyone is like me then they forget they have cufflinks on and stick them in the wash with the shirt. If I dye them do you reckon the dye will run into then shirt? Will the dye fade? Will the cufflinks hold out though a wash. While I can test this I thought I would ask
So over all I guess maybe all the above, dyeing and using acrylic paint will work I guessing I may need to just use a sealant of some sort
Thanks for your time, and any response, advise and critasium is very much appreciated
Oh just a few more question totally of topic but still about cufflinks
Would you buy nylon 618 cufflinks if you wear cufflinks
Do you feel that 8£ for a set of cufflinks is a OK price, including free cufflink box and UK delivery
Would you feel ripped off because of the light weight of nylon cufflinks when you recieved them
Do you feel disappointed that the end of the cufflink is just round and not a twist end like most metal cufflinks?
Anything you want to add to your thoughts on nylon cufflinks
Thanks
Stewie ]]>staticbuddha2013-04-25T17:43:27-00:00Re: Dyeing polished white strong and flexible
http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&goto=66801&th=13642#msg_66801
Dip dye would be quite tricky, given that the mixture is boiling (generally)! But an interesting idea!]]>gibell2013-04-24T13:35:10-00:00
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