Search Search  
Today's Messages (OFF)  | Unanswered Messages (ON)

Forum: Post Production Techniques
 Topic: Copper for your Prints!
Copper for your Prints! [message #88036] Thu, 17 April 2014 17:45 UTC
avatar erckgillis  is currently offline erckgillis
Messages: 68
Registered: October 2011
Go to my shop
Member
As you know SW does not yet print into Copper...

But wait they Do!

Brass and Bronze are alloys of Copper and often are 80-90% Pure Copper.
I have had some success in printing in raw or polished Brass/Bronze and using post production to bring out the rich red "Copper" colors in the finishes!

Print as Normal, some testing here is required as well as a preference for raw or polished will vary by your design and print sizes.
Also careful with fine lines or details as these may be lost using this technique...

See pics below for variations in color, patina and pitting of metals.
Use a solution of Sodium hydroxide (lye) or Drain Cleaner, try a starting solution diluted 25-50% and work up to full strength. Don't use gel or powders get the cheap liquid versions in bottles and regular strength.

Submerge Printed item into solution, it will blacken quickly. Rinse in fresh water. Inspect, dry/buff out black (this is Tin/Zinc) and repeat until patina or colors are as desired. this is a surface treatment only. Removing any Tin or Zinc leave a Copper Patina! Copper may continue to oxidize or patina to green, brown or black. Use a good surface protection wax to maintain desired colors. http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Metal-Wax-850-16/dp/B008KMGA GI/

Also I have had some luck filling pits and defects with copper solders and other Cu based fillers. See your store or http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Solder-Bronze-Jewelry-Repair/dp /B000OVK3YI/

Some results can be varied by using a raw or sanded surface and even the more expensive "polished" finishes at SW yield great results...


Ed
ERCK Store
 Topic: Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish
Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish [message #86510] Fri, 21 March 2014 06:46 UTC
avatar Sonnet34  is currently offline Sonnet34
Messages: 2
Registered: March 2014
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hello! I was wondering about multiple post-production techniques. I have two things that I'm working on but many questions as to how to go about doing so. If I could get some help - that would be great!

1) I am looking to print a model in full-color sandstone. I want to cover it with a clear coat for protection/make it a little more smooth - is there some special type of varnish/spray that I should buy?

2) I am also trying to make a model that I'd ideally want to be printed in a translucent-type material and then painted. I want to make it in transparent detail as I read that this is the material that will be the clearest. Ideally, I want to be able to paint parts of the model and leave other parts unpainted (and retain its clear properties). What is the easiest way to do this and which material?
I read that TD will have to be polished (with sandpaper?) and then painted.
FD/FUD is less transparent and will be covered with a wax-like material when I get it, so I'd have to clean it off. But I read that a lot of the ways to clean it causes the FD/FUD to discolor and become white.
I am also a bit lost here regarding primer and types of paint.
I think in the end, TD would be best for my application here? How do I go about painting TD?

3) Can I use nail polish for any kind of the painting? I have clear nail polish and regular nail polish in many, many colors already on hand...

Thank you so much in advance and please help if you can - I'm totally new to 3D printing!
 Topic: Which glue?
Which glue? [message #85214] Fri, 21 February 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar paolomanenti  is currently offline paolomanenti
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2011
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi everyone,

I would like to ask your help about which glue can be used to paste Strong and Flexible Plastic to Plexiglass (polymethylmethacrylate)?

The glue I have used seemed ok, but after some months it has expanded all around and now it is visible. It is an ugly effect, because the glue is yellow, so at the base of the toys we can see this yellow spot.

Any advice? Thank you so much!
 Topic: Getting your bronze to be shiny
Getting your bronze to be shiny [message #85101] Wed, 19 February 2014 19:03 UTC
avatar Arcathorn  is currently offline Arcathorn
Messages: 51
Registered: September 2013
Go to all my models
Member
Anyone have a good post production technique with bronze to get a shinier finish?


"Do or do not there is no try"-Yoda
 Topic: Painting a pWSF ring for long term use?
Painting a pWSF ring for long term use? [message #84619] Sun, 09 February 2014 17:16 UTC
avatar emgray  is currently offline emgray
Messages: 1
Registered: February 2014
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hello everyone,
I want to buy and wear a polished WSF ring for about 3 months before I buy it in silver so I would like to paint it and make it durable enough for daily wear.

I checked the types of paints that could be applied and realised that I know someone who has the colours I need in nail varnish. So I was wondering if I could simply wash the ring when I get it, dry it and paint it using nail varnish?

As I don't have much experience in painting I also wouldn't mind paying someone a couple of dollars to paint it and then send it to me.

Lastly, for my situation would a WSF or pWSF ring be better?

Advice will be very much appreciated.
 Topic: Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish.
Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish. [message #83121] Mon, 13 January 2014 14:08 UTC
avatar Old_Republic  is currently offline Old_Republic
Messages: 11
Registered: January 2011
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi all,

Just wondering which type of finish would be smoother in ceramics; gloss or satin?

Thanks,

David.
 Topic: Drilling after printing
Drilling after printing [message #82353] Wed, 01 January 2014 08:30 UTC
avatar DesignbyDalton  is currently offline DesignbyDalton
Messages: 96
Registered: May 2012
Go to my shop
Member
Hello fellow designers,

Has any one drilled any of the materials after printing? I'm thinking about drilling a hole in a full color sandstone print and was looking for some input. The hole would be 1/4 inch and go about 2.5 inches until exiting the opposite side. Any input would be much appreciated.


I am always open for commission, if you like my work and want something unique to you, somthing no one else can have but you, drop me a PM and we can talk.
 Topic: Templates for
Templates for [message #82240] Mon, 30 December 2013 11:48 UTC
avatar rithmikansur  is currently offline rithmikansur
Messages: 75
Registered: July 2012
Go to my shop
Member
I made co-creator model where you can upload a picture that your child has drawn to use as the texture for a cute teddy bear model.

1) Download and Print the template.
2) Snap a photo of the drawing or scan it in.
3) Hit the customize button in my shop and upload the image.

You don't really need to use the template.
But, it will help you understand what areas of the drawing will go onto the bear if you choose not to use it.


[Updated on: Mon, 30 December 2013 11:51 UTC]


Blogging about shapeways, inventor, and anything else that crosses my mind
rithforms.blogspot.com
 Topic: Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish
Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish [message #80895] Mon, 09 December 2013 22:10 UTC
avatar atsfsd26  is currently offline atsfsd26
Messages: 5
Registered: October 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi,
This is my first post to the forum.
I have just received my first Shapeways product (see CAD drawing below or attached) made in Frosted Detail. I'm totally blown away with the quality of the finish and following a gentle sand with some 400 grit Wet & dry paper, the surface finish is totally smooth.

My next step is to paint the model.

I will be painting with either acetone based paint, or solvent (thinners) based paint or if necessary acrylic (water or alcohol) based paint.
I'd prefer to use one of the first two types.
Are there any compatibility issues with this material and solvents, please?
In fact are there compatibilty issues with any type of paint.
Does the material need washing etc before applying paint (like resin cast material does to remove mold release agent).
Thanks in advance for any help
cheers
Dave
index.php?t=getfile&id=46963&private=0

 Topic: FUD and Acetone- a surprise result.
FUD and Acetone- a surprise result. [message #77643] Sun, 27 October 2013 20:52 UTC
avatar dcyale  is currently offline dcyale
Messages: 106
Registered: February 2013
Go to my shop
Senior Member
Not wanting to do laundry this afternoon I decided to do a little experiment on how acetone affects FUD. I took six 1/87 scale tables that all had the same print orientation, and were printed as the same model sprued together, and soaked them for different times in acetone, then photographed the results both with a regular camera, and my kid's "Bionic Eye" microscopic camera. The full results and a bunch of pictures

are HERE.


For those of you that read the last page first, at 50 minutes the table started to warp slightly, but I did not observe any detrimental effect on detail. HOWEVER, the 50 minute table was quite a bit more flexible than the control that was not soaked at all.

I left one table in over two hours. As expected it was ruined, and three of the legs broke easily, but it was really flexible. I could bend a wire 180 degrees without it breaking. It was more flexible than SWF.

The 20 minute table was slightly more flexible, and it appeared ready to paint.

I suspect, and I don't think I'll be running a controlled experiment to find out, that a 20 minutes acetone soak not only cleans the FUD model, but makes it a little less brittle and a little bit tougher, due to it being slightly more flexible.

I will have to check in a few days to see if it remains more flexible.
 Topic: Best Material to Paint
Best Material to Paint [message #74178] Wed, 04 September 2013 18:07 UTC
avatar sirchristopher2  is currently offline sirchristopher2
Messages: 2
Registered: December 2012
Go to all my models
Junior Member
If I am going to paint by hand with acrylic paints, what is the best material to purchase?

Thanks!
Chris
 Topic: in house finishing
in house finishing [message #73774] Tue, 27 August 2013 23:33 UTC
avatar elfenomeno  is currently offline elfenomeno
Messages: 1
Registered: August 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Dear all,my name is Hussein dembel sow,I am young entrepreneur and I am currently setting up a company that will design trophy and medals for a large type of customers like sports events,corporate gift....
However to get cost low we would like to set up a finishing division that will take care of that,however we don't know much about the process and we would like to push it very far and to do it better than shapeways would.
I am thinking about having a little team that will take raw model and polish them,dye them or paint them.
I am looking for advice on the most commonly used process and how you would do it.
Cordially.
 Topic: Plastic Injection molding in the USA
icon5.gif  Plastic Injection molding in the USA [message #73251] Sun, 18 August 2013 23:56 UTC
avatar ihobbs7  is currently offline ihobbs7
Messages: 4
Registered: August 2012
Go to my shop
Junior Member
I have a good .stl file that I would like to mass produce, does anyone know of a decent
plastic injection company in the US. I would like to keep it within our borders if at all
possible.
 Topic: How to stop color from WSF wearing off?
How to stop color from WSF wearing off? [message #72220] Fri, 26 July 2013 03:24 UTC
avatar AEAJewelry  is currently offline AEAJewelry
Messages: 4
Registered: October 2012
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Has anyone found a good sealant to coat WSF pieces to stop the color from wearing off? This is for jewelry...

Thanks!
 Topic: PAINTED BY HAND/BRUSH
PAINTED BY HAND/BRUSH [message #72216] Thu, 25 July 2013 23:42 UTC
avatar jillm502  is currently offline jillm502
Messages: 2
Registered: July 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
I'm just learning......is it possible to do fine, hand painted detail on this. Is it plastic, metal or paper? I'm looking for a fine china, look, lots of detail, glossy finish. Which material should I use. Any suggestions on getting the right materials.....
 Topic: Polishing Methods for WSF
Polishing Methods for WSF [message #71919] Sun, 21 July 2013 05:01 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
Messages: 5
Registered: April 2013
Go to my shop
Junior Member
I've read several threads on how best to polish a WSF print, including white putty and liquid resin, but I was wondering if anyone who has had experience with both can compare the advantages and disadvantages of each for me? Also, has anyone had experience using polishing wax on WSF? Thanks.
 Topic: Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw?
Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw? [message #71885] Fri, 19 July 2013 23:25 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
Messages: 5
Registered: April 2013
Go to my shop
Junior Member
My model includes a SWF-printed screw and screw hole. If I apply a thin layer of polishing wax on the screw (attached), do you think that will that reduce the likelihood of damage from friction, while still retaining enough friction for the screw to grip tightly? Thanks.

  • Attachment: Screw.stl
    (Size: 112.97KB, Downloaded 16 time(s))

[Updated on: Sat, 20 July 2013 03:16 UTC]

 Topic: Painting tips for WSF?
Painting tips for WSF? [message #71846] Fri, 19 July 2013 04:43 UTC
avatar Kilagria  is currently offline Kilagria
Messages: 1
Registered: July 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
I've looked around and found some pretty helpful stuff, but I'm still having trouble deciding on if I need to sand/dye before I paint or if I can skip straight to the painting. I just really don't want to screw this up! Basically I'm having https://www.shapeways.com/model/1213844/htc1-sh-06d-nerv.htm l?materialId=6&li=ostatus made right now, and I want to paint it so it closely resembles http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZGFAKM3uBs/T7P_v_Nm9JI/AAAAAAAAQ7 s/SBjjFljFrnE/s1600/51214-Evangelion-Sharp_s-NERV-1-51214.jp g I've found that Tamiya paint is recommended quit often, so I'll probably go with that. I'm just not sure which paints would be the best (Since paints typically look different when dry compared to wet).

I'm assuming I'll need to sand the cover down a bit? I really have no idea what I'm doing, I just went ahead and got this on a limb.

[Updated on: Fri, 19 July 2013 04:45 UTC]

 Topic: Sealing nylon parts
Sealing nylon parts [message #71484] Fri, 12 July 2013 02:01 UTC
avatar bobfield1  is currently offline bobfield1
Messages: 2
Registered: June 2012
Go to my shop
Junior Member
Wondering if anyone has any experience sealing dyed nylon parts so that they don't discolor & get dirty so easily??? Has anyone tried spraying them with Krylon clear coat (http://www.krylon.com/products/crystal-clear-acrylic/) or dipping them in lacquer???
 Topic: Acetone Vapor
Acetone Vapor [message #71321] Wed, 10 July 2013 04:57 UTC
avatar 3DCustomizationCo  is currently offline 3DCustomizationCo
Messages: 9
Registered: July 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Vapor Sanding is a great way to smooth ABS 3D Printed models, we all know that. The difficult part is finding an easy, no mess way to do it. The Touch-Up is exactly that. We have launched a campaign on Indiegogo and wanted to share it with you. Looking at the posts, I think you will enjoy The Touch-Up. Please comment and let us know your thoughts! We would love the insight from others who 3D Print.

The Touch-Up on Indiegogo


http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r781/3DCustomizationCo/Indiegogo/5b1c4b09-6361-4b2c-b95a-ea60bdafcd76_zps6c6661c1.jpg

http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r781/3DCustomizationCo/Indiegogo/de730c77-5bd8-4930-bcfc-cae71f937bbd_zps19afafd4.jpg
 Topic: reviving fading colors of colored strong and flexible
reviving fading colors of colored strong and flexible [message #71023] Fri, 05 July 2013 11:57 UTC
avatar monocircus  is currently offline monocircus
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2011
Go to my shop
Junior Member
I have gotten some fashion accessories printed in blue strong and flexible.

I find the color gradually fading and becoming duller, even though it has been carefully used only several times and stored properly.

1. Is there a way to maintain the vibrant color for the new models that I am about to have made?
such as using a certain kind of coating?

2. Is there a way I could revive the color of the faded model?
I saw some online tutorial of rubbing moisturizer to resin jewelry. Could this be applied for the strong and flexible plastic?

Thanks a lot in advance!


 Topic: Frosted Ultra Detail Lost Wax Casting
Frosted Ultra Detail Lost Wax Casting [message #70676] Fri, 28 June 2013 19:14 UTC
avatar JoshBowers  is currently offline JoshBowers
Messages: 1
Registered: May 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Curious if anyone has experience with this (lost wax casting of the FUD material).

Very small pieces.

Thinking it may need platinum treatment?
 Topic: UV protection for Sandstone
UV protection for Sandstone [message #70301] Sat, 22 June 2013 03:37 UTC
avatar wilcirrus  is currently offline wilcirrus
Messages: 5
Registered: October 2012
Go to my shop
Junior Member
I understand that white sandstone can discolour if exposed to UV light - would anyone know what type of treatment/sealant etc I can apply to it to prevent this happening, as I'm making the part for a customer.

Thanks.
 Topic: What kind of marker works on glossy gold?
What kind of marker works on glossy gold? [message #70074] Wed, 19 June 2013 00:11 UTC
avatar DoWhileGeek  is currently offline DoWhileGeek
Messages: 2
Registered: September 2011
Go to my shop
Junior Member
I want someone to sign a coin I designed and printed, but one of the questions raised was, what kind of markers work on the material? I'd test it out, but I don't want to ruin the printed canvas meant for someone else. Any tips would be great.
 Topic: Best material for automotive application
Best material for automotive application [message #68793] Tue, 28 May 2013 18:12 UTC
avatar matumorales  is currently offline matumorales
Messages: 1
Registered: April 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hello;

I'm a car restorer, and I'm currently working on reproducing a gauge bezel for an old car; what material might give me the best results?

I need it to be plastic, black color, smooth surface and sharp details. Also, must withstand mild temperatures from being inside a car in the sun.

Any ideas?

Have a great week!

Daniel
 Topic: Regular Sandstone?
Regular Sandstone? [message #68756] Mon, 27 May 2013 18:24 UTC
avatar BrinnyTheBrave  is currently offline BrinnyTheBrave
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi! I am new here, just thought I'd say welcome to all my fellow Shapeways buddies Laughing

I ordered a coloured sandstone figure a while back. I am basically wondering if it is strong enough to withstand resin casting, as I want to make a sturdier model of it and uniquely custom it. Here is what I ordered:

http://www.shapeways.com/model/932643/my-little-pony-rainbow dash.html?li=productBox-search
 Topic: premium silver
premium silver [message #67766] Fri, 10 May 2013 08:50 UTC
avatar dionkieft  is currently offline dionkieft
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2009
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi There,

I have a question. I'm getting married in a couple of months and designed our wedding rings. Now, I'm wondering if they will turn out OK if I order them in premium silver (if that's still available). Anyone here who has more experience ordering premium silver that would like to give some feedback on my model? My concern is if they can do a descent job on the polishing seeing there is a geometric relief on it. The model isn't perfect yet, but the screenshots will give a descent impression.

anyone?

index.php?t=getfile&id=32202&private=0

 Topic: post production companies? mold or casting service?
post production companies? mold or casting service? [message #67495] Sun, 05 May 2013 17:39 UTC
avatar fraochdha  is currently offline fraochdha
Messages: 23
Registered: January 2011
Go to my shop
Junior Member
Does any one know of a good company to out source products too for post production? Say, once you've gotten a good model and you're happy with it, but you want to up your game and produce more than just a couple, or make them for even cheaper at a higher volume... anyone have any links or referrals?

I'm looking for plastic or high impact resin.

thanks!

P.
 Topic: Thorn Dice - Painted
Thorn Dice - Painted [message #66999] Sun, 28 April 2013 17:30 UTC
avatar imbusion  is currently offline imbusion
Messages: 1
Registered: April 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
I ordered the thorn dice with decader in black as a present for a friend. I was a bit disappointed at how hard it was to read the numbers on the dice, so I bought some orange acrylic paint and applied that to the numbers. I've touched it up a bit since I took this photo, but I was very pleased with the result:

http://i.imgur.com/U515EdY.jpg

The 7 on the 8-sided die seems to have an error, or maybe it was just awkwardly modeled, but other than that I'm looking forward to giving this gift.

Edit: In retrospect... I'm not sure if this was the best sub-forum for this post. If a mod thinks this would be better suited elsewhere, please feel free to move it. Thanks and sorry for any trouble!

[Updated on: Sun, 28 April 2013 17:41 UTC]

 Topic: Best glue, spackle and sandpaper for WSF?
Best glue, spackle and sandpaper for WSF? [message #66660] Mon, 22 April 2013 19:52 UTC
avatar Sophie Kahn  is currently offline Sophie Kahn
Messages: 14
Registered: February 2011
Go to my shop
Junior Member
Hi everyone,

I am working on a series of 4 large sculptures, produced in WSF. Some of them were actually a little too large for the machine, so there are some small parts that need to be re-attached. I plan to spackle the join once it has been glued, and spray-paint the whole thing. I did this previously on one piece that did not require gluing, and was happy with the result.

I also received one model with a visible line that runs across the whole of the piece, where the two lasers needed to print it did not quite line up. So far I haven't had a whole lot of luck sanding it. I was reluctant to use very coarse paper as I didn't want to scratch the rest of the surface. So my questions are:

-What's the best glue for gluing two parts that are 6mm thick to each other? (I saw in the archives that some people recommended 4 hr epoxy? Any updated recommendations?)

-Any spackle recommendations?

-Lastly, what grade of sandpaper have people used to sand down problematic areas on their models without actually polishing the whole thing?

Here's a previous piece so you can see the kind of object I'm talking about.

Thanks!


http://www.sophiekahn.net
 Topic: Removing excess white goo (glue?) from Full Color Sandstone? (Pics)
Removing excess white goo (glue?) from Full Color Sandstone? (Pics) [message #62664] Sat, 23 February 2013 20:01 UTC
avatar Brian123  is currently offline Brian123
Messages: 63
Registered: March 2010
Go to my shop
Member
I just received an order last week and haven't been able to post about it until now.

It's hard to get a 100% perfect print. There's likely to be a small blemish. Like an LCD might have a dead pixel. Though, if I a dead pixel is in the center of the screen, it becomes a big issue. Sadly, that's what happened with this print.

This print has some kind of white goo (glue) stuck on the character's face. So you always see it every time you take a look. The rest of the print meets standards ( great colors, smooth, no chips, etc.)

The blemish seems solid and I don't want to try scratching it off. Has anyone had to deal with this issue? Any techniques?

I normally wouldn't complain if it was more hidden. Right on the face just ruins it, almost no different than physically damaged there.

I'll e-mail service for suggestions and what they think.

index.php?t=getfile&id=27901&private=0

 Topic: ABS Conductive printing material
ABS Conductive printing material [message #62399] Tue, 19 February 2013 18:45 UTC
avatar andradebh  is currently offline andradebh
Messages: 7
Registered: January 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi,

I am looking for a service that can print with electric conductive materials.
The best option would be conductive ABS but metalized also can be used.

http://www.repraper.com/goods.php?id=173


 Topic: Soft PVC material for printing
Soft PVC material for printing [message #62397] Tue, 19 February 2013 18:36 UTC
avatar andradebh  is currently offline andradebh
Messages: 7
Registered: January 2013
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi,

I am looking for a printing service of very soft material like rubber or silicon that can be directly printed. (soft and very flexible)

Is there any similar material available for printing?

 Topic: Painting FUD Products
Painting FUD Products [message #55573] Thu, 18 October 2012 14:52 UTC
avatar fred.oliver  is currently offline fred.oliver
Messages: 9
Registered: December 2011
Go to all my models
Junior Member
After reading all the advice and horror stories I could find on the forum, I tried painting my first FUD products - two ship models and a model of a Bloodhound missile. I washed all three with warm water and mild hand soap and let them dry thoroughly. I primed them with Game Color white acrylic primer and let them dry for several days. I painted the ship models with enamel paints (that's what I've been using for the last fifty years). I'm almost done with the ships and things are going well. When I tried painting the missile with white enamel, it seemed to dissolve the primer. I scrubbed the missile as best I could with paint thinner and put it to soak in brake fluid. (That's the most benign way I've found to remove enamel paint from plastics.)

The only difference between the ships and the missiles is that the former got two coats of primer, while the latter got only one. Should a second coat of primer make that much difference?

I'll let you know what happens to the ships after they're Dull Coated (I'm not expecting anything bad with so many layers of primer and paint on the FUD). I'll also let you know if the missile model survives the brake fluid bath.

I encourage designers of small-scale airplanes to offer all their products in WSF. Detail may be lost but WSF seems to be a much friendlier material.
 Topic: any technique to make a final good look for an iphone case in WSF? or in dyed colors?
any technique to make a final good look for an iphone case in WSF? or in dyed colors? [message #55050] Mon, 08 October 2012 23:54 UTC
avatar Jose_narvaez  is currently offline Jose_narvaez
Messages: 108
Registered: March 2012
Go to my shop
Senior Member
index.php?t=getfile&id=21420&private=0


hello everyone i just recently buy a model i designed you can see it here: http://www.shapeways.com/model/701408/d0cf14f7928249d1402d49 c26a1b82aa
i just want to buy many of them for sell them by myself. i just got some questions: has anyone know some technique to make a good finish in WSF? or in dyed color how to prevent the dye wears off or to get a smooth finish. here is a picture of the 3d printed model

 Topic: shapeway's model to studio quality scale model
shapeway's model to studio quality scale model [message #54053] Sat, 15 September 2012 01:55 UTC
avatar tom_a_sparks  is currently offline tom_a_sparks
Messages: 5
Registered: June 2009
Go to all my models
Junior Member
i am looking for someone that can turn a shapeway's model into a studio quality scale model?
that includes painting and fibre optic lighting (if needed)
 Topic: Does dying with Dylon Universal effect the bio-compatibility of WSF?
Does dying with Dylon Universal effect the bio-compatibility of WSF? [message #52288] Sat, 04 August 2012 20:26 UTC
avatar pdb  is currently offline pdb
Messages: 131
Registered: January 2012
Go to all my models
Senior Member
Does dying with Dylon Universal effect the bio-compatibility of WSF?


boop
 Topic: Best material for a master to be investment cast
Best material for a master to be investment cast [message #50798] Wed, 04 July 2012 14:02 UTC
avatar ShootingSight  is currently offline ShootingSight
Messages: 2
Registered: July 2012
Go to all my models
Junior Member
I am starting a project to make a steel investment cast part. About 2" x 1" x 0.5".

I'm thinking in the few hundred parts range, it will end up fitting in an assembly of mechanical parts in a machine, so here are my initial thoughts.

1. Shapeways makes a master.
2. I build a form and cast it in RTV silicone.
3. I got a little wax injection molder, so I shoot waxes
4. I send them off to a foundary to get cast in tool steel
5. I finish machine (reaming a pivot hole, and touching a surface grinder to clean up one edge).
6. Send out for heat treat.

So, my questions I can think of are:

1. What material is best for my master? Presumably I want the best surface finish, though I could clean it up by hand.
2. Shrinkage. I assume 4%, though I would not apply shrinkage to my pivot hole, so it is 4% undersized, leaving enough meat for the reamer to clean up.

What am I missing?
 Topic: How to clean a metal 3D printed object
How to clean a metal 3D printed object [message #49933] Sun, 17 June 2012 17:42 UTC
avatar Magic  is currently offline Magic
Messages: 1115
Registered: August 2008
Go to my shop
Senior Member
Sometimes in with a metal 3D printed object,you get some green material stuck into the small cavities. For instance, in a die, you can have them in the indented number.

I made a video to show how to clean that with a simple needle.

[Updated on: Mon, 18 June 2012 13:31 UTC] by Moderator


So many things to design, so little time...
 Topic: HUGE MODEL Nylon 12 painting advice
HUGE MODEL Nylon 12 painting advice [message #47390] Mon, 23 April 2012 18:56 UTC
avatar MauricioRomano  is currently offline MauricioRomano
Messages: 1
Registered: April 2012
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hey guys, I've been trying to find a reasonable way to paint the nylon 12 white strong and flexible, and many of the topics here have been interesting, however, they all are for very small pieces.

I'm working on a large piece, and by that I mean, 16 inches across, by nine inches, by three. Unfortunately I cant dip this sized object it Rit Dye cost effectively, and I wouldn't want to brush paint it as I want an even coat.

So far, I was thinking of just lightly sanding, then primering with many light light coats of spray paint, followed by many light light coats of black paint. I don't know if there is a specific kind of spray paint that would work better than others.

Any advice helps, I'm open to all the different suggestions. Thanks!
Pages (2): [1  2    »]