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Forum: Post Production Techniques
 Topic: WSF post prod & sealing - this works great.
WSF post prod & sealing - this works great. [message #114055] Fri, 17 April 2015 23:56 UTC
avatar ChristianH  is currently offline ChristianH
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Hey all.
There are many threads here about how to treat and seal WSF and here is yet another one.
This method works great and is easy to apply.

Many have recommended CA glue for sealing WSF but I didn't bother with it due to the very sticky nature of CA and this is a less sticky option.

Buy some 2-component 30 min epoxy. HobbyTown USA carries this one (Slow-Cure 30min)

Mix 1 part resin and 1 part hardener and mix well. Then dilute this 1:1 with denatured alcohol and mix until the viscosity is almost like water.

Apply with a brush. It goes on very easy and soaks into the porous surface. Set aside and let cure. The test piece took a few hours to cure properly. With exact proportions it might be faster. It dries hard and the surface can then be wet sanded with 300 or even 600 grit paper to smooth the surface. Finish off with 2000 for a superbly smooth surface.

[Updated on: Fri, 17 April 2015 23:57 UTC]

 Topic: Thinking of making my own munny type toy/character
Thinking of making my own munny type toy/character [message #113972] Thu, 16 April 2015 17:25 UTC
avatar jonathan35  is currently offline jonathan35
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I have some characters that I want to print in 3d. that shouldn't be a problem, and I also found a starter for a munny.

Looking at the cost of 3d printing it wouldn't be practical to sell them at shows. So I thought I could 3d print one larger, then make a mold of it, and make some that I could sell.

1st, is this a viable option?

2, what material should I print it to then make a cast of the figure?

3. Any cast/mold suggestions (there are a bunch out there).

4. What material would be best for this type of figure (I think Munnies are made of Laytex)

I don't think I could cast it to be hollow like the Munny is, but I may make it smaller.

thank you in advance.
 Topic: What brands of primer/paint are good for painting on plastic
What brands of primer/paint are good for painting on plastic [message #113107] Tue, 31 March 2015 18:07 UTC
avatar hunterfine1  is currently offline hunterfine1
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Hey everyone,

Looking for specific brands from an art store of primer/paint to get.

I'm painting miniatures - and don't want to lose detail on the heads with a thick coat.

And printing on the "white strong & flexible plastic" from shapeways.

Does anyone have recommendation on what Primers (preferably white),

And what type/brands of paint I should use.

 Topic: Looking for a comparison between Silver Premium and Polished
Looking for a comparison between Silver Premium and Polished [message #111896] Mon, 09 March 2015 20:29 UTC
avatar J999  is currently offline J999
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I know the Premium Finishig (Sterling silver) and is very beautiful and shiny. But urgently I'm looking possibly a photo in high res. of a ring, but always in with Polished.
My ring is already in production and I chose the polished finishing, but I would not it's too raw

 Topic: Making Nylon SLS Waterproof
Making Nylon SLS Waterproof [message #109703] Thu, 05 February 2015 14:29 UTC
avatar franpadormo  is currently offline franpadormo
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I have printed an almost spherical object designed to hold water out of nylon SLS. It is formed of two hemispheres which screw together. I now wish to make it waterproof. I was previously advised to use a spray-on varnish or paint-on epoxy, but would like to hear from the community if there are any more alternatives! Ideally, the interior surface would be very smooth, and I would like to try and avoid pooling of the substance as it dries. Also, the interior seam is an issue....

So, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 Topic: Multiple color dyes on one WSF part?
Multiple color dyes on one WSF part? [message #109571] Tue, 03 February 2015 18:30 UTC
avatar john.mauriello  is currently offline john.mauriello
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Has anyone messed around with tie dyes using White Strong and Flexible? I would imagine that it would just end up being a muddy brown from all of the dye colors mixing together, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Another possible alternative is multiple 'stripes' of color added to one WSF part. For example, can you dip half your model in red dye and then the other half in orange dye? What about getting a color gradient (dark red to medium red to light red all the way to pink)? Coudl you just submerge the part for more time as you go up? Let me know if you guys have any experience with this. I wanted to try it before I accidentally ruined a part by attempting it :P

[Updated on: Tue, 03 February 2015 18:30 UTC]

 Topic: Dye-sublimation on ceramic
Dye-sublimation on ceramic [message #101513] Mon, 20 October 2014 20:08 UTC
avatar mdurli  is currently offline mdurli
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Hello, do you know of a service I can send objects to and have a picture or a design dye-sublimated on it?
I'm interested in ceramics particularly (surface for printing will be flat) , and I would like to achieve the same quality of ImageSnap ( ceramic tiles. But I don't want to create tiles of course...


 Topic: Recommendations for Ceramic Media for WSF
Recommendations for Ceramic Media for WSF [message #100222] Fri, 03 October 2014 11:02 UTC
avatar marchena35  is currently offline marchena35
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Hello! I'm having a rethink of my production plans. I believe it will be best now if I polish the raw WSF in my workshop. I have a tumbler I can use and I am investigating different ceramic media. I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for the the best type to use for parts which are 2 - 3 cm-ish.

I've found this online 0/15352.htm and I wonder if it might be suitable?

And - if possible, could anyone recommend any other ceramic media suppliers in Europe?

Any help much appreciated!

 Topic: Strong & flexible polished
Strong & flexible polished [message #99452] Mon, 29 September 2014 21:09 UTC
avatar aleksandar  is currently offline aleksandar
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I wondered if strong & flexible polished material can be re-sized by thermal treat for instance? I have a shape similar to frame which size I'd like to shrink with less than mm...


product deisgn, visualisation & photography
 Topic: Micro airbrushing
Micro airbrushing [message #99064] Mon, 22 September 2014 19:14 UTC
avatar milieucrafts  is currently offline milieucrafts
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Saw some interesting painting threads in the Post Production Techniques section, but didn't see much about using Micro airbrushing. Seems like it would be ideal for small crafts items. Anyone ever tried it ? If so...what were the results ?
 Topic: Shapeways Insiders!
Shapeways Insiders! [message #95483] Wed, 06 August 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
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Shapie Expert
I work here
Do you think you have what it takes to be a Shapeways Insider? Do you have helpful knowledge of materials? Do you want more from your shop?

Well than we're looking for you! Read more here on the blog and be sure to fill out the form linked here.

I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou Community Advocate
 Topic: Polished Nickel Steel Jewelry - How to Avoid Snagging on Clothing
Polished Nickel Steel Jewelry - How to Avoid Snagging on Clothing [message #90552] Tue, 27 May 2014 22:16 UTC
avatar 43Layers  is currently offline 43Layers
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I just made some 3D printed tie bars out of polished nickel steel. They look fantastic; however, the material is still a little bit rough. I worry that the material will snag my tie and ruin it. Any recommendations for smoothing out the finish of polished steel pieces?

 Topic: Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish
Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish [message #86510] Fri, 21 March 2014 06:46 UTC
avatar Sonnet34  is currently offline Sonnet34
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Hello! I was wondering about multiple post-production techniques. I have two things that I'm working on but many questions as to how to go about doing so. If I could get some help - that would be great!

1) I am looking to print a model in full-color sandstone. I want to cover it with a clear coat for protection/make it a little more smooth - is there some special type of varnish/spray that I should buy?

2) I am also trying to make a model that I'd ideally want to be printed in a translucent-type material and then painted. I want to make it in transparent detail as I read that this is the material that will be the clearest. Ideally, I want to be able to paint parts of the model and leave other parts unpainted (and retain its clear properties). What is the easiest way to do this and which material?
I read that TD will have to be polished (with sandpaper?) and then painted.
FD/FUD is less transparent and will be covered with a wax-like material when I get it, so I'd have to clean it off. But I read that a lot of the ways to clean it causes the FD/FUD to discolor and become white.
I am also a bit lost here regarding primer and types of paint.
I think in the end, TD would be best for my application here? How do I go about painting TD?

3) Can I use nail polish for any kind of the painting? I have clear nail polish and regular nail polish in many, many colors already on hand...

Thank you so much in advance and please help if you can - I'm totally new to 3D printing!
 Topic: Which glue?
Which glue? [message #85214] Fri, 21 February 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar paolomanenti  is currently offline paolomanenti
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Hi everyone,

I would like to ask your help about which glue can be used to paste Strong and Flexible Plastic to Plexiglass (polymethylmethacrylate)?

The glue I have used seemed ok, but after some months it has expanded all around and now it is visible. It is an ugly effect, because the glue is yellow, so at the base of the toys we can see this yellow spot.

Any advice? Thank you so much!
 Topic: Getting your bronze to be shiny
Getting your bronze to be shiny [message #85101] Wed, 19 February 2014 19:03 UTC
avatar Arcathorn  is currently offline Arcathorn
Messages: 71
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Anyone have a good post production technique with bronze to get a shinier finish?

"Do or do not there is no try"-Yoda
 Topic: Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish.
Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish. [message #83121] Mon, 13 January 2014 14:08 UTC
avatar RestoToyForce  is currently offline RestoToyForce
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Hi all,

Just wondering which type of finish would be smoother in ceramics; gloss or satin?



Resto Toy Force
 Topic: Drilling after printing
Drilling after printing [message #82353] Wed, 01 January 2014 08:30 UTC
avatar DesignbyDalton  is currently offline DesignbyDalton
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Hello fellow designers,

Has any one drilled any of the materials after printing? I'm thinking about drilling a hole in a full color sandstone print and was looking for some input. The hole would be 1/4 inch and go about 2.5 inches until exiting the opposite side. Any input would be much appreciated.

Send an email to for a free quote on any custom orders.
 Topic: Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish
Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish [message #80895] Mon, 09 December 2013 22:10 UTC
avatar atsfsd26  is currently offline atsfsd26
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This is my first post to the forum.
I have just received my first Shapeways product (see CAD drawing below or attached) made in Frosted Detail. I'm totally blown away with the quality of the finish and following a gentle sand with some 400 grit Wet & dry paper, the surface finish is totally smooth.

My next step is to paint the model.

I will be painting with either acetone based paint, or solvent (thinners) based paint or if necessary acrylic (water or alcohol) based paint.
I'd prefer to use one of the first two types.
Are there any compatibility issues with this material and solvents, please?
In fact are there compatibilty issues with any type of paint.
Does the material need washing etc before applying paint (like resin cast material does to remove mold release agent).
Thanks in advance for any help

 Topic: FUD and Acetone- a surprise result.
FUD and Acetone- a surprise result. [message #77643] Sun, 27 October 2013 20:52 UTC
avatar dcyale  is currently offline dcyale
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Not wanting to do laundry this afternoon I decided to do a little experiment on how acetone affects FUD. I took six 1/87 scale tables that all had the same print orientation, and were printed as the same model sprued together, and soaked them for different times in acetone, then photographed the results both with a regular camera, and my kid's "Bionic Eye" microscopic camera. The full results and a bunch of pictures

are HERE.

For those of you that read the last page first, at 50 minutes the table started to warp slightly, but I did not observe any detrimental effect on detail. HOWEVER, the 50 minute table was quite a bit more flexible than the control that was not soaked at all.

I left one table in over two hours. As expected it was ruined, and three of the legs broke easily, but it was really flexible. I could bend a wire 180 degrees without it breaking. It was more flexible than SWF.

The 20 minute table was slightly more flexible, and it appeared ready to paint.

I suspect, and I don't think I'll be running a controlled experiment to find out, that a 20 minutes acetone soak not only cleans the FUD model, but makes it a little less brittle and a little bit tougher, due to it being slightly more flexible.

I will have to check in a few days to see if it remains more flexible.
 Topic: Best Material to Paint
Best Material to Paint [message #74178] Wed, 04 September 2013 18:07 UTC
avatar sirchristopher2  is currently offline sirchristopher2
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If I am going to paint by hand with acrylic paints, what is the best material to purchase?

 Topic: in house finishing
in house finishing [message #73774] Tue, 27 August 2013 23:33 UTC
avatar elfenomeno  is currently offline elfenomeno
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Dear all,my name is Hussein dembel sow,I am young entrepreneur and I am currently setting up a company that will design trophy and medals for a large type of customers like sports events,corporate gift....
However to get cost low we would like to set up a finishing division that will take care of that,however we don't know much about the process and we would like to push it very far and to do it better than shapeways would.
I am thinking about having a little team that will take raw model and polish them,dye them or paint them.
I am looking for advice on the most commonly used process and how you would do it.
 Topic: Plastic Injection molding in the USA
icon5.gif  Plastic Injection molding in the USA [message #73251] Sun, 18 August 2013 23:56 UTC
avatar ihobbs7  is currently offline ihobbs7
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I have a good .stl file that I would like to mass produce, does anyone know of a decent
plastic injection company in the US. I would like to keep it within our borders if at all
 Topic: How to stop color from WSF wearing off?
How to stop color from WSF wearing off? [message #72220] Fri, 26 July 2013 03:24 UTC
avatar AEAJewelry  is currently offline AEAJewelry
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Has anyone found a good sealant to coat WSF pieces to stop the color from wearing off? This is for jewelry...

PAINTED BY HAND/BRUSH [message #72216] Thu, 25 July 2013 23:42 UTC
avatar jillm502  is currently offline jillm502
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I'm just it possible to do fine, hand painted detail on this. Is it plastic, metal or paper? I'm looking for a fine china, look, lots of detail, glossy finish. Which material should I use. Any suggestions on getting the right materials.....
 Topic: Polishing Methods for WSF
Polishing Methods for WSF [message #71919] Sun, 21 July 2013 05:01 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
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I've read several threads on how best to polish a WSF print, including white putty and liquid resin, but I was wondering if anyone who has had experience with both can compare the advantages and disadvantages of each for me? Also, has anyone had experience using polishing wax on WSF? Thanks.
 Topic: Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw?
Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw? [message #71885] Fri, 19 July 2013 23:25 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
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My model includes a SWF-printed screw and screw hole. If I apply a thin layer of polishing wax on the screw (attached), do you think that will that reduce the likelihood of damage from friction, while still retaining enough friction for the screw to grip tightly? Thanks.

  • Attachment: Screw.stl
    (Size: 112.97KB, Downloaded 43 time(s))

[Updated on: Sat, 20 July 2013 03:16 UTC]

 Topic: Painting tips for WSF?
Painting tips for WSF? [message #71846] Fri, 19 July 2013 04:43 UTC
avatar Kilagria  is currently offline Kilagria
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I've looked around and found some pretty helpful stuff, but I'm still having trouble deciding on if I need to sand/dye before I paint or if I can skip straight to the painting. I just really don't want to screw this up! Basically I'm having l?materialId=6&li=ostatus made right now, and I want to paint it so it closely resembles s/SBjjFljFrnE/s1600/ g I've found that Tamiya paint is recommended quit often, so I'll probably go with that. I'm just not sure which paints would be the best (Since paints typically look different when dry compared to wet).

I'm assuming I'll need to sand the cover down a bit? I really have no idea what I'm doing, I just went ahead and got this on a limb.

[Updated on: Fri, 19 July 2013 04:45 UTC]

 Topic: Sealing nylon parts
Sealing nylon parts [message #71484] Fri, 12 July 2013 02:01 UTC
avatar bobfield1  is currently offline bobfield1
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Wondering if anyone has any experience sealing dyed nylon parts so that they don't discolor & get dirty so easily??? Has anyone tried spraying them with Krylon clear coat ( or dipping them in lacquer???
 Topic: Acetone Vapor
Acetone Vapor [message #71321] Wed, 10 July 2013 04:57 UTC
avatar 3DCustomizationCo  is currently offline 3DCustomizationCo
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Vapor Sanding is a great way to smooth ABS 3D Printed models, we all know that. The difficult part is finding an easy, no mess way to do it. The Touch-Up is exactly that. We have launched a campaign on Indiegogo and wanted to share it with you. Looking at the posts, I think you will enjoy The Touch-Up. Please comment and let us know your thoughts! We would love the insight from others who 3D Print.

The Touch-Up on Indiegogo
 Topic: reviving fading colors of colored strong and flexible
reviving fading colors of colored strong and flexible [message #71023] Fri, 05 July 2013 11:57 UTC
avatar monocircus  is currently offline monocircus
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I have gotten some fashion accessories printed in blue strong and flexible.

I find the color gradually fading and becoming duller, even though it has been carefully used only several times and stored properly.

1. Is there a way to maintain the vibrant color for the new models that I am about to have made?
such as using a certain kind of coating?

2. Is there a way I could revive the color of the faded model?
I saw some online tutorial of rubbing moisturizer to resin jewelry. Could this be applied for the strong and flexible plastic?

Thanks a lot in advance!

 Topic: Frosted Ultra Detail Lost Wax Casting
Frosted Ultra Detail Lost Wax Casting [message #70676] Fri, 28 June 2013 19:14 UTC
avatar JoshBowers  is currently offline JoshBowers
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Curious if anyone has experience with this (lost wax casting of the FUD material).

Very small pieces.

Thinking it may need platinum treatment?
 Topic: UV protection for Sandstone
UV protection for Sandstone [message #70301] Sat, 22 June 2013 03:37 UTC
avatar wilcirrus  is currently offline wilcirrus
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I understand that white sandstone can discolour if exposed to UV light - would anyone know what type of treatment/sealant etc I can apply to it to prevent this happening, as I'm making the part for a customer.

 Topic: What kind of marker works on glossy gold?
What kind of marker works on glossy gold? [message #70074] Wed, 19 June 2013 00:11 UTC
avatar DoWhileGeek  is currently offline DoWhileGeek
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I want someone to sign a coin I designed and printed, but one of the questions raised was, what kind of markers work on the material? I'd test it out, but I don't want to ruin the printed canvas meant for someone else. Any tips would be great.
 Topic: Best material for automotive application
Best material for automotive application [message #68793] Tue, 28 May 2013 18:12 UTC
avatar matumorales  is currently offline matumorales
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I'm a car restorer, and I'm currently working on reproducing a gauge bezel for an old car; what material might give me the best results?

I need it to be plastic, black color, smooth surface and sharp details. Also, must withstand mild temperatures from being inside a car in the sun.

Any ideas?

Have a great week!

 Topic: Regular Sandstone?
Regular Sandstone? [message #68756] Mon, 27 May 2013 18:24 UTC
avatar BrinnyTheBrave  is currently offline BrinnyTheBrave
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Hi! I am new here, just thought I'd say welcome to all my fellow Shapeways buddies Laughing

I ordered a coloured sandstone figure a while back. I am basically wondering if it is strong enough to withstand resin casting, as I want to make a sturdier model of it and uniquely custom it. Here is what I ordered: dash.html?li=productBox-search
 Topic: premium silver
premium silver [message #67766] Fri, 10 May 2013 08:50 UTC
avatar dionkieft  is currently offline dionkieft
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Hi There,

I have a question. I'm getting married in a couple of months and designed our wedding rings. Now, I'm wondering if they will turn out OK if I order them in premium silver (if that's still available). Anyone here who has more experience ordering premium silver that would like to give some feedback on my model? My concern is if they can do a descent job on the polishing seeing there is a geometric relief on it. The model isn't perfect yet, but the screenshots will give a descent impression.



 Topic: post production companies? mold or casting service?
post production companies? mold or casting service? [message #67495] Sun, 05 May 2013 17:39 UTC
avatar fraochdha  is currently offline fraochdha
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Does any one know of a good company to out source products too for post production? Say, once you've gotten a good model and you're happy with it, but you want to up your game and produce more than just a couple, or make them for even cheaper at a higher volume... anyone have any links or referrals?

I'm looking for plastic or high impact resin.


 Topic: Thorn Dice - Painted
Thorn Dice - Painted [message #66999] Sun, 28 April 2013 17:30 UTC
avatar imbusion  is currently offline imbusion
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I ordered the thorn dice with decader in black as a present for a friend. I was a bit disappointed at how hard it was to read the numbers on the dice, so I bought some orange acrylic paint and applied that to the numbers. I've touched it up a bit since I took this photo, but I was very pleased with the result:

The 7 on the 8-sided die seems to have an error, or maybe it was just awkwardly modeled, but other than that I'm looking forward to giving this gift.

Edit: In retrospect... I'm not sure if this was the best sub-forum for this post. If a mod thinks this would be better suited elsewhere, please feel free to move it. Thanks and sorry for any trouble!

[Updated on: Sun, 28 April 2013 17:41 UTC]

 Topic: Best glue, spackle and sandpaper for WSF?
Best glue, spackle and sandpaper for WSF? [message #66660] Mon, 22 April 2013 19:52 UTC
avatar SophieKahn  is currently offline SophieKahn
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Hi everyone,

I am working on a series of 4 large sculptures, produced in WSF. Some of them were actually a little too large for the machine, so there are some small parts that need to be re-attached. I plan to spackle the join once it has been glued, and spray-paint the whole thing. I did this previously on one piece that did not require gluing, and was happy with the result.

I also received one model with a visible line that runs across the whole of the piece, where the two lasers needed to print it did not quite line up. So far I haven't had a whole lot of luck sanding it. I was reluctant to use very coarse paper as I didn't want to scratch the rest of the surface. So my questions are:

-What's the best glue for gluing two parts that are 6mm thick to each other? (I saw in the archives that some people recommended 4 hr epoxy? Any updated recommendations?)

-Any spackle recommendations?

-Lastly, what grade of sandpaper have people used to sand down problematic areas on their models without actually polishing the whole thing?

Here's a previous piece so you can see the kind of object I'm talking about.

 Topic: Removing excess white goo (glue?) from Full Color Sandstone? (Pics)
Removing excess white goo (glue?) from Full Color Sandstone? (Pics) [message #62664] Sat, 23 February 2013 20:01 UTC
avatar Brian123  is currently offline Brian123
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I just received an order last week and haven't been able to post about it until now.

It's hard to get a 100% perfect print. There's likely to be a small blemish. Like an LCD might have a dead pixel. Though, if I a dead pixel is in the center of the screen, it becomes a big issue. Sadly, that's what happened with this print.

This print has some kind of white goo (glue) stuck on the character's face. So you always see it every time you take a look. The rest of the print meets standards ( great colors, smooth, no chips, etc.)

The blemish seems solid and I don't want to try scratching it off. Has anyone had to deal with this issue? Any techniques?

I normally wouldn't complain if it was more hidden. Right on the face just ruins it, almost no different than physically damaged there.

I'll e-mail service for suggestions and what they think.


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