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Forum: Post Production Techniques
 Topic: Enamel primers OK for 'white, strong , and flexible?'
Enamel primers OK for 'white, strong , and flexible?' [message #143705] Thu, 28 April 2016 02:55 UTC
avatar 05Sultan  is currently offline 05Sultan
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As in the title, Enamel primers such as Krylon or Rust-Oleum compatible with textured white nylon parts(after prepping)?
Many TIA
Rick
"Artillery lends elegance to what otherwise would be a vulgar brawl."- A Colonel in Napoleon's Army
 Topic: Prop for Demo
Prop for Demo [message #137859] Fri, 26 February 2016 17:42 UTC
avatar aesopworks  is currently offline aesopworks
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we are start up company working on a household deice which keeps tracks of medicines , and would like to see if anyone can make a prop for us. Have the 3 d models to print our the basic shell but need real artistic finish to look real .
Here are the pics of the product .
Please feel free to contact me at 848 248 5133 or ranjit@aesopworks.com

best regards
Ranjit Komeravelli
www.aesopworks.com

 Topic: Temporary Gluing/Securing part for silicone molding
Temporary Gluing/Securing part for silicone molding [message #137199] Wed, 17 February 2016 19:49 UTC
avatar fostee  is currently offline fostee
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I'm planning on using a strong and flexible plastic part as a master positive piece to create many molds for low volume production. In order to accomplish this I need to secure the shape ways model onto a piece of acrylic. Securing the piece is important to get a good mold. When the silicone has cured, I need to remove the shape ways model from the acrylic sheet in order to separate the silicone mold from the shape ways part. I need to repeat this process 10 or more times without significantly damaging the original model. The glue will be on a flat surface on an area of the model that isn't easily viewed (a non-critical cosmetic surface) but clearly I want to have an accurate mold with little imperfections. On my FDM printed parts I have had success using super glue or hot glue for this purpose. But the super glue tends to stick strongly and rip the part upon removal. Does anybody have experience hot gluing this type of plastic? I typically use rubbing alcohol to help break the bond of the hot glue from the 3D printed part, is rubbing alcohol safe on strong and flexible plastic?

Please provide feedback and suggestions.

Thank you
 Topic: Finishing for Transparency?
Finishing for Transparency? [message #132202] Sun, 10 January 2016 03:46 UTC
avatar MikeR44  is currently offline MikeR44
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What (and how) do I need to do to make both the Transparent Acrylic and the Frosted Ultra Detail models as transparent as possible? I need detailed instructions. Thanks.
 Topic: Gluing FUD and FED
Gluing FUD and FED [message #129841] Thu, 17 December 2015 13:16 UTC
avatar Baywing  is currently offline Baywing
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Any suggestions? Parts are clean, need to glue them together and also re-attach some small pieces that broke off. While I'm at it, I'll be gluing other materials to the FUD and/or FED so anything different there?
Thanks.
 Topic: DIY Spray On Chrome kit @instructables.com
DIY Spray On Chrome kit @instructables.com [message #123848] Fri, 09 October 2015 15:31 UTC
avatar nicamarvin  is currently offline nicamarvin
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http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-...On-Chrome-kit/


a system for very small 3d prints coming soon, you will be able to deposit Silver, Copper and gold without having to break the bank(for under $100)
 Topic: Part comparison between Strong and Flexible and Frosted Detail.
Part comparison between Strong and Flexible and Frosted Detail. [message #123418] Mon, 28 September 2015 19:43 UTC
avatar Fungi  is currently offline Fungi
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Hi people from the future... :)

So I made some parts with my projet and I ordered the same part from shapeways in Strong and Flexible. Now I fully expected it to be a bit grainy, but I am perplexed as to why the small extrusions are way smaller. In the image the projet part is on the right and the Strong and Flexible is on the left. I can see inn the shapeways render that the lugs are not resized. The size of the nut is .05" and the bolt is .03". Thanks in advance for any help received from people in the future.

index.php?t=getfile&id=118300&private=0

 Topic: A neat tutorial I found on making a DIY Silicone mold
A neat tutorial I found on making a DIY Silicone mold [message #123385] Mon, 28 September 2015 01:15 UTC
avatar Andrewsimonthomas  is currently offline Andrewsimonthomas
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Silicone molds can be expensive, I found this tutorial on reusing silicone caulking you can buy at your local hardware store to make a mold.

I don't have anything that I'm ready to mold yet, but let me know if you find this helpful.

~Andrew


Community Manager
 Topic: Coloring Stainless Steel
Coloring Stainless Steel [message #123366] Sun, 27 September 2015 13:45 UTC
avatar KurthWorks  is currently offline KurthWorks
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Hello, I just printed my first ring in stainless steel. It would be nice if I could get a dark color in the recessed areas so the details would pop out. I've heard of using liver of sulfur XL Gel to do this on silver, but I'm not sure how that would work on steel. Any suggestions?

-Kurth
 Topic: Ultimate dying machine ;-)
Ultimate dying machine ;-) [message #122100] Wed, 02 September 2015 08:13 UTC
avatar XXL66  is currently offline XXL66
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It heats and stirs, unfortunally the temperature is only 60°C
Maybe i have to mod it so it's heats a bit more and keeps stirring.

Don't worry, we don't use it anymore for milk.

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 Topic: Polyamide Water Absorption
Polyamide Water Absorption [message #122032] Tue, 01 September 2015 02:03 UTC
avatar sammy_j_wells  is currently offline sammy_j_wells
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Hey hey :)

Here is a crazy and probably ridiculous question:

I've read that polyamide (strong and flexible plastic) can sometimes absorbs moisture but I was hoping to make a silicone rubber mould from my print (I can't really print in other materials because it is a large and intricate form). Is there something that I can treat the polyamide with to seal it and how flexible is the material? Would it just warp under the weight of the silicone (the model has a wall thickness of abt. 2mm?

Thanks heaps!
 Topic: Best surface to paint
Best surface to paint [message #121830] Thu, 27 August 2015 23:25 UTC
avatar sigi  is currently offline sigi
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What is the best material that has the least amount of prep work for painting/finishing?

We have used the strong and flexible material but it requires a lot of finishing? Would other material work better. ie smoother finish, and easier to paint.
Which kind of paint is the best? I've heard acrylic and a pre wash of an epoxy solution that can be brushed on.

we are printing a microphone head frame, approximately 7.25" h x 5" wide and the arches that make up the frame is about .27". it's a large piece but not a lot of surface area.


any suggestion? is that a facility/place that specializes in this kind of finishing in orange county CA?
 Topic: Need help casting/adding articulation to 3D model
Need help casting/adding articulation to 3D model [message #119466] Fri, 17 July 2015 21:27 UTC
avatar KreativeKirk  is currently offline KreativeKirk
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[size=4][b]I hired someone to make a 3D model of my favorite Nintendo villain, King K. Rool. The model looks amazing! He is adding articulation to it, based off of the video I posted on YouTube, but there is a problem. When Shapeways 3D prints my model, won't that affect the joints and articulation? Is there a way I could print the model is separate pieces, cast each part in resin, & then put together the figure myself? What kind of resin do I need? I am aware that I need to make a mold of each part, but what kind of resin do I pore into the mold afterwards? I'm interested in making the figure out of resin because the strong & flexible plastic I was going to 3D print my figure on, Shapeways is not sure how durable it will be. I am using the printed model for stop-motion animation videos so I will be posing & moving him around a lot. I really appreciate the help and could use a reply ASAP! Thanks!

Also if anyone is experienced In how to add joints and articulation like I show in the video I attached to this, let me know!


Articulation Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aa8kbEMd3-w

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[Updated on: Fri, 17 July 2015 21:27 UTC]

 Topic: Print in Transparent or Ultra Detail and Let a Kid Paint it!
Print in Transparent or Ultra Detail and Let a Kid Paint it! [message #119106] Sat, 11 July 2015 15:02 UTC
avatar renay  is currently offline renay
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Makes a nice present.

For example here is the clear ultra detail of the sunflower pendant from my shop http://shpws.me/IoCi painted by an 11 year old girl who had a great time doing so.

And she gets to wear something that is partly her creation.

http://shpws.me/IoCi


index.php?t=getfile&id=107134&private=0

[Updated on: Sat, 11 July 2015 15:46 UTC]

 Topic: Castable wax weight into metal weight/ volume conversion
Castable wax weight into metal weight/ volume conversion [message #116550] Mon, 01 June 2015 21:46 UTC
avatar Pesces  is currently offline Pesces
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I always weigh my milled/ solid waxes and calculate how much metal It will take to cast an Item. I have noticed, however, that Castable Wax from Shapeways will not weigh the same as an identical part that is cut from solid wax. How do I calculate for amount of metal needed ? I would love to know the Specific Gravity of the Castable Wax because I can calculate from there.


Krissy Joy
 Topic: Can you recommend material to fill gaps and holes in White, Strong, Flexible?
Can you recommend material to fill gaps and holes in White, Strong, Flexible? [message #116219] Tue, 26 May 2015 21:04 UTC
avatar heidelbeerenkuchen  is currently offline heidelbeerenkuchen
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Hi everybody.

I'm repairing a nylon printed sculpture that had some pieces broken off.

I've superglued two pieces back into place. But since it was not a clear break, there's a little 1 mm gap on one side. Would love to fill this up and then sand, polish and paint it to make it look like new again.

What kind of material could you recommend for this?

Many thanks for your help!
 Topic: My Black Hedge Maze
My Black Hedge Maze [message #114533] Sat, 25 April 2015 17:50 UTC
avatar EdwardF  is currently offline EdwardF
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index.php?t=getfile&id=98320&private=0

... after highlighting with Silver Sharpie.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3ZPE5FU7L/hedgemaze?option Id=37817041

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 Topic: Looking for a comparison between Silver Premium and Polished
Looking for a comparison between Silver Premium and Polished [message #111896] Mon, 09 March 2015 20:29 UTC
avatar J999  is currently offline J999
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I know the Premium Finishig (Sterling silver) and is very beautiful and shiny. But urgently I'm looking possibly a photo in high res. of a ring, but always in with Polished.
My ring is already in production and I chose the polished finishing, but I would not it's too raw

 Topic: Making Nylon SLS Waterproof
Making Nylon SLS Waterproof [message #109703] Thu, 05 February 2015 14:29 UTC
avatar franpadormo  is currently offline franpadormo
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Hello,

I have printed an almost spherical object designed to hold water out of nylon SLS. It is formed of two hemispheres which screw together. I now wish to make it waterproof. I was previously advised to use a spray-on varnish or paint-on epoxy, but would like to hear from the community if there are any more alternatives! Ideally, the interior surface would be very smooth, and I would like to try and avoid pooling of the substance as it dries. Also, the interior seam is an issue....

So, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 Topic: Multiple color dyes on one WSF part?
Multiple color dyes on one WSF part? [message #109571] Tue, 03 February 2015 18:30 UTC
avatar tempusr94720_c557488ae6c  is currently offline tempusr94720_c557488ae6c
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Has anyone messed around with tie dyes using White Strong and Flexible? I would imagine that it would just end up being a muddy brown from all of the dye colors mixing together, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Another possible alternative is multiple 'stripes' of color added to one WSF part. For example, can you dip half your model in red dye and then the other half in orange dye? What about getting a color gradient (dark red to medium red to light red all the way to pink)? Coudl you just submerge the part for more time as you go up? Let me know if you guys have any experience with this. I wanted to try it before I accidentally ruined a part by attempting it :P

[Updated on: Tue, 03 February 2015 18:30 UTC]


N/A
 Topic: Dye-sublimation on ceramic
Dye-sublimation on ceramic [message #101513] Mon, 20 October 2014 20:08 UTC
avatar mdurli  is currently offline mdurli
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Hello, do you know of a service I can send objects to and have a picture or a design dye-sublimated on it?
I'm interested in ceramics particularly (surface for printing will be flat) , and I would like to achieve the same quality of ImageSnap (www.imagesnap.com) ceramic tiles. But I don't want to create tiles of course...

Thanks!
Mattia

 Topic: Recommendations for Ceramic Media for WSF
Recommendations for Ceramic Media for WSF [message #100222] Fri, 03 October 2014 11:02 UTC
avatar marchena35  is currently offline marchena35
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Hello! I'm having a rethink of my production plans. I believe it will be best now if I polish the raw WSF in my workshop. I have a tumbler I can use and I am investigating different ceramic media. I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for the the best type to use for parts which are 2 - 3 cm-ish.

I've found this online http://www.hobbyland.eu/eng/prod/00000011/00000297/00000301/ 0/15352.htm and I wonder if it might be suitable?

And - if possible, could anyone recommend any other ceramic media suppliers in Europe?

Any help much appreciated!

Kate
 Topic: Strong & flexible polished
Strong & flexible polished [message #99452] Mon, 29 September 2014 21:09 UTC
avatar aleksandar  is currently offline aleksandar
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Hi,

I wondered if strong & flexible polished material can be re-sized by thermal treat for instance? I have a shape similar to frame which size I'd like to shrink with less than mm...

thanks


product deisgn, 3D visualisation & architectural photography www.ad-3d.com www.adphoto.fr
 Topic: Micro airbrushing
Micro airbrushing [message #99064] Mon, 22 September 2014 19:14 UTC
avatar milieucrafts  is currently offline milieucrafts
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Saw some interesting painting threads in the Post Production Techniques section, but didn't see much about using Micro airbrushing. Seems like it would be ideal for small crafts items. Anyone ever tried it ? If so...what were the results ?
 Topic: Shapeways Insiders!
Shapeways Insiders! [message #95483] Wed, 06 August 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
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Shapie Expert
I work here
Do you think you have what it takes to be a Shapeways Insider? Do you have helpful knowledge of materials? Do you want more from your shop?

Well than we're looking for you! Read more here on the blog and be sure to fill out the form linked here.


I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou
michael@shapeways.com Community Advocate
 Topic: Polished Nickel Steel Jewelry - How to Avoid Snagging on Clothing
Polished Nickel Steel Jewelry - How to Avoid Snagging on Clothing [message #90552] Tue, 27 May 2014 22:16 UTC
avatar 43Layers  is currently offline 43Layers
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I just made some 3D printed tie bars out of polished nickel steel. They look fantastic; however, the material is still a little bit rough. I worry that the material will snag my tie and ruin it. Any recommendations for smoothing out the finish of polished steel pieces?

Thanks!!
TJ
 Topic: Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish
Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish [message #86510] Fri, 21 March 2014 06:46 UTC
avatar Sonnet34  is currently offline Sonnet34
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Hello! I was wondering about multiple post-production techniques. I have two things that I'm working on but many questions as to how to go about doing so. If I could get some help - that would be great!

1) I am looking to print a model in full-color sandstone. I want to cover it with a clear coat for protection/make it a little more smooth - is there some special type of varnish/spray that I should buy?

2) I am also trying to make a model that I'd ideally want to be printed in a translucent-type material and then painted. I want to make it in transparent detail as I read that this is the material that will be the clearest. Ideally, I want to be able to paint parts of the model and leave other parts unpainted (and retain its clear properties). What is the easiest way to do this and which material?
I read that TD will have to be polished (with sandpaper?) and then painted.
FD/FUD is less transparent and will be covered with a wax-like material when I get it, so I'd have to clean it off. But I read that a lot of the ways to clean it causes the FD/FUD to discolor and become white.
I am also a bit lost here regarding primer and types of paint.
I think in the end, TD would be best for my application here? How do I go about painting TD?

3) Can I use nail polish for any kind of the painting? I have clear nail polish and regular nail polish in many, many colors already on hand...

Thank you so much in advance and please help if you can - I'm totally new to 3D printing!
 Topic: Which glue?
Which glue? [message #85214] Fri, 21 February 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar paolomanenti  is currently offline paolomanenti
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Hi everyone,

I would like to ask your help about which glue can be used to paste Strong and Flexible Plastic to Plexiglass (polymethylmethacrylate)?

The glue I have used seemed ok, but after some months it has expanded all around and now it is visible. It is an ugly effect, because the glue is yellow, so at the base of the toys we can see this yellow spot.

Any advice? Thank you so much!
 Topic: Getting your bronze to be shiny
Getting your bronze to be shiny [message #85101] Wed, 19 February 2014 19:03 UTC
avatar Arcathorn  is currently offline Arcathorn
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Anyone have a good post production technique with bronze to get a shinier finish?


"Do or do not there is no try"-Yoda
 Topic: Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish.
Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish. [message #83121] Mon, 13 January 2014 14:08 UTC
avatar MrDGWalters72  is currently offline MrDGWalters72
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Hi all,

Just wondering which type of finish would be smoother in ceramics; gloss or satin?

Thanks,

[Updated on: Thu, 14 January 2016 12:57 UTC]


MrDGWalters72
 Topic: Drilling after printing
Drilling after printing [message #82353] Wed, 01 January 2014 08:30 UTC
avatar DesignbyDalton  is currently offline DesignbyDalton
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Hello fellow designers,

Has any one drilled any of the materials after printing? I'm thinking about drilling a hole in a full color sandstone print and was looking for some input. The hole would be 1/4 inch and go about 2.5 inches until exiting the opposite side. Any input would be much appreciated.


Like my renders? Send me an email at DaltonBissell@live.com for a quote to make your items look just as good.
 Topic: Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish
Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish [message #80895] Mon, 09 December 2013 22:10 UTC
avatar atsfsd26  is currently offline atsfsd26
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Hi,
This is my first post to the forum.
I have just received my first Shapeways product (see CAD drawing below or attached) made in Frosted Detail. I'm totally blown away with the quality of the finish and following a gentle sand with some 400 grit Wet & dry paper, the surface finish is totally smooth.

My next step is to paint the model.

I will be painting with either acetone based paint, or solvent (thinners) based paint or if necessary acrylic (water or alcohol) based paint.
I'd prefer to use one of the first two types.
Are there any compatibility issues with this material and solvents, please?
In fact are there compatibilty issues with any type of paint.
Does the material need washing etc before applying paint (like resin cast material does to remove mold release agent).
Thanks in advance for any help
cheers
Dave
index.php?t=getfile&id=46963&private=0

 Topic: FUD and Acetone- a surprise result.
FUD and Acetone- a surprise result. [message #77643] Sun, 27 October 2013 20:52 UTC
avatar dcyale  is currently offline dcyale
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Not wanting to do laundry this afternoon I decided to do a little experiment on how acetone affects FUD. I took six 1/87 scale tables that all had the same print orientation, and were printed as the same model sprued together, and soaked them for different times in acetone, then photographed the results both with a regular camera, and my kid's "Bionic Eye" microscopic camera. The full results and a bunch of pictures

are HERE.


For those of you that read the last page first, at 50 minutes the table started to warp slightly, but I did not observe any detrimental effect on detail. HOWEVER, the 50 minute table was quite a bit more flexible than the control that was not soaked at all.

I left one table in over two hours. As expected it was ruined, and three of the legs broke easily, but it was really flexible. I could bend a wire 180 degrees without it breaking. It was more flexible than SWF.

The 20 minute table was slightly more flexible, and it appeared ready to paint.

I suspect, and I don't think I'll be running a controlled experiment to find out, that a 20 minutes acetone soak not only cleans the FUD model, but makes it a little less brittle and a little bit tougher, due to it being slightly more flexible.

I will have to check in a few days to see if it remains more flexible.
 Topic: Best Material to Paint
Best Material to Paint [message #74178] Wed, 04 September 2013 18:07 UTC
avatar sirchristopher2  is currently offline sirchristopher2
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If I am going to paint by hand with acrylic paints, what is the best material to purchase?

Thanks!
Chris
 Topic: in house finishing
in house finishing [message #73774] Tue, 27 August 2013 23:33 UTC
avatar elfenomeno  is currently offline elfenomeno
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Dear all,my name is Hussein dembel sow,I am young entrepreneur and I am currently setting up a company that will design trophy and medals for a large type of customers like sports events,corporate gift....
However to get cost low we would like to set up a finishing division that will take care of that,however we don't know much about the process and we would like to push it very far and to do it better than shapeways would.
I am thinking about having a little team that will take raw model and polish them,dye them or paint them.
I am looking for advice on the most commonly used process and how you would do it.
Cordially.
 Topic: Plastic Injection molding in the USA
icon5.gif  Plastic Injection molding in the USA [message #73251] Sun, 18 August 2013 23:56 UTC
avatar ihobbs7  is currently offline ihobbs7
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I have a good .stl file that I would like to mass produce, does anyone know of a decent
plastic injection company in the US. I would like to keep it within our borders if at all
possible.
 Topic: How to stop color from WSF wearing off?
How to stop color from WSF wearing off? [message #72220] Fri, 26 July 2013 03:24 UTC
avatar AEA_ONE  is currently offline AEA_ONE
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Has anyone found a good sealant to coat WSF pieces to stop the color from wearing off? This is for jewelry...

Thanks!
 Topic: PAINTED BY HAND/BRUSH
PAINTED BY HAND/BRUSH [message #72216] Thu, 25 July 2013 23:42 UTC
avatar jillm502  is currently offline jillm502
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I'm just learning......is it possible to do fine, hand painted detail on this. Is it plastic, metal or paper? I'm looking for a fine china, look, lots of detail, glossy finish. Which material should I use. Any suggestions on getting the right materials.....
 Topic: Polishing Methods for WSF
Polishing Methods for WSF [message #71919] Sun, 21 July 2013 05:01 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
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I've read several threads on how best to polish a WSF print, including white putty and liquid resin, but I was wondering if anyone who has had experience with both can compare the advantages and disadvantages of each for me? Also, has anyone had experience using polishing wax on WSF? Thanks.
 Topic: Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw?
Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw? [message #71885] Fri, 19 July 2013 23:25 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
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My model includes a SWF-printed screw and screw hole. If I apply a thin layer of polishing wax on the screw (attached), do you think that will that reduce the likelihood of damage from friction, while still retaining enough friction for the screw to grip tightly? Thanks.

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[Updated on: Sat, 20 July 2013 03:16 UTC]

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