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Forum: 3D Printing
 Topic: Full colour bracelets
Full colour bracelets [message #145810] Sat, 14 May 2016 16:40 UTC
avatar Nardella  is currently offline Nardella
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Registered: December 2013
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That is the design I have in mind, is coated sandstone durable enough to wear? If not, are there other options?
 Topic: Ring printing for master piece - Stainless steel
Ring printing for master piece - Stainless steel [message #144018] Fri, 29 April 2016 18:49 UTC
avatar mryaniv  is currently offline mryaniv
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Registered: April 2016
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I want to print in Stainless steel ring and make rubber in order to duplicate it.

My question is which option i should choose in order to get a ready master piece that ready for rubber ?

The Stainless steel is much cheaper then Silver.

Will I get the master piece in Stainless steel ready for rubber ? (no need to polish and so on ? )

If Stainless steel is not a good option, It will be great if you will tell me which cheap material can work for me.

Thanks !
 Topic: Viewing textures on model
Viewing textures on model [message #143690] Wed, 27 April 2016 22:40 UTC
avatar CliffordTorus  is currently offline CliffordTorus
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2015
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Hi all, this is my first time printing with textures, and I've followed the steps to upload the model (putting in and the UV map in a .zip). I'm printing in full color sandstone, but I don't see my texture on the 3D Tools preview for full color sandstone. I'm not sure if that's correct? I'm just seeing the stock grey material on it. The texture tab has a check but doesn't mention anything about my texture - it only says that Shapeways automatically checks to see if my model has color. Is it supposed to be like this?
 Topic: Any idea when larger porcelain models will be accepted
Any idea when larger porcelain models will be accepted [message #143037] Thu, 21 April 2016 17:10 UTC
avatar Nardella  is currently offline Nardella
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I need another 30mm or so in one horizontal direction for my model to be workable. Even 10 mm would be helpful...
 Topic: How do I balance a model with tiny/round legs and make it a standalone character?
How do I balance a model with tiny/round legs and make it a standalone character? [message #142415] Fri, 15 April 2016 19:54 UTC
avatar CMBeumont  is currently offline CMBeumont
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Registered: April 2016
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I have a model with very tiny/round legs (X2). She won't be able to stand on her own. I'm afraid if I attach a base to her, that her legs might either break (since the connected area will be tiny) or that the model might lose its form (since I'll have to increase the diameter of the connected area)

I want to avoid posing her with a weapon (ex. leaning on the weapon so it becomes a 3rd leg) but that sounds like it'll be my only other option.

Adding weight to the bottom portion of the model will not fix the issue either unfortunately due to the design (top heavy).

I'm planning to do this in 14K Gold. What other solutions do you recommend?

Any custom stands or case suggestions are also welcome.

Thank you
 Topic: Trying my first print but not manifold
Trying my first print but not manifold [message #141737] Sat, 09 April 2016 09:58 UTC
avatar flamesongdance  is currently offline flamesongdance
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Registered: April 2016
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So I'm designing a simple note 4 phone case but the minute I take the top off the cube I'm using as a base object the object becomes non manifold how do I seal the edges so I can print this object I've used the knife tool to cut holes in the various places needed for buttons and such but I'm not sure how to make this watertight any help would be great.

Am using blender to design object

[Updated on: Sat, 09 April 2016 10:24 UTC]

 Topic: How big of a gap between the lid and the box?
How big of a gap between the lid and the box? [message #141172] Wed, 06 April 2016 21:26 UTC
avatar armoreddragon227  is currently offline armoreddragon227
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I am making a box of sorts with a press fit lid. I would like the lid to be as tight as possible, but I would like it to fit, so I was wondering how much space I should leave around the lid so that it will fit in the box.


  • Attachment: box.stl
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[Updated on: Wed, 06 April 2016 23:35 UTC]

 Topic: Can you make a SHAPESMELL product that has a fish/shrimp smell?
Can you make a SHAPESMELL product that has a fish/shrimp smell? [message #140657] Fri, 01 April 2016 17:27 UTC
avatar KenJacobson  is currently offline KenJacobson
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 Topic: Need help getting some printing done, I have no idea what I'm doing!
Need help getting some printing done, I have no idea what I'm doing! [message #139352] Wed, 16 March 2016 19:56 UTC
avatar Raysculpt  is currently offline Raysculpt
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Registered: November 2014
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Hi I'm looking for help on how to get started on getting some stuff printed I tried to upload some files to have some parts for a model printed, I have no knowledge on all this stuff and need some help and would appreciate any advice on what I'm doing wrong or if someone can get it done for me and I can pay them. You can message me here or email me at thanks guys.
 Topic: would this be ok for metal?
would this be ok for metal? [message #137746] Wed, 24 February 2016 18:00 UTC
avatar juan_revi  is currently offline juan_revi
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Hi all,

First time posting here.

I have a model which bounding box dimensions are 55mm x 80mm x 3mm

I'm not showing the whole thing because is for a client and want to preservate the idea.

What you see in the picture at the left is the front view and at the right is the side view wich is 3mm.

Now my doubt is about the inner parts because some parts are a lot less than the 3mm and even less than 1 mm.

So the overal bounding box respects the limitations but not sure about the inside.

Can you please help me to understand this? and if i need to add a plate to support the inside thinner parts?

Thanks a lot



 Topic: Why can't I see what the problem is?
Why can't I see what the problem is? [message #136967] Sun, 14 February 2016 21:53 UTC
avatar jwatte  is currently offline jwatte
Messages: 9
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I uploaded a model and placed an order.
A bit later, I got an email that there is a problem, with a link to the item.
I click the item link, and the "auto check" shows green, and the "manual check" shows "in progress."

So... how do I find out what's wrong with the model? There is no spot that I can tell is obviously bad for the material (WSF.)

... edit ...
Aaand now I get another message saying it's on the way to the printers. Huh?

[Updated on: Sun, 14 February 2016 22:02 UTC]

 Topic: I need help casting resin grown by Shapeways
I need help casting resin grown by Shapeways [message #134145] Wed, 20 January 2016 03:38 UTC
avatar maya2012  is currently offline maya2012
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Has any body cast the castable resin grown by Shapeways? I ordered one and Shapeways told me that they do not have casting instructions. I am going to cast it in silver.

James Uribe
 Topic: Trying to understand SS limitations and model geometry
Trying to understand SS limitations and model geometry [message #131617] Thu, 07 January 2016 20:51 UTC
avatar VinceMaxwell  is currently offline VinceMaxwell
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I recently had the following model printed in SS with no issue.
which is available here.

I've then uploaded the following model

which is here - but was told that it could not be printed in SS.

The initial rejection at the manual inspection stage was that the capital letter "M" was too thin. I questioned this since all of the letters meet the requirements on the the specs page. Shapeways support agreed and contacted the technicians who said:

I have heard back from our contact with the vendor and they have given a little more detail on the reason for rejection. They have added this is also to do with the general geometry of the model as well as the thickness of the items. Even though the letters are within the design guidelines, during the infusion stage of processing the model is in a very fragile state with a consistancy similar to wet sand, and they are just not confident this will survive as it is. One suggestion they have offered is if any support sprues across the top of the letters could be added, then removed again once received once the metal has hardened. This would help to keep the models shape during the fragile production stages.

I'm trying to understand what general geometry is failing on the second model that would not have failed on the first and would be helped by connecting sprues.
I don't want to require an end user to have to do additional fabrication on the model to remove the sprues if I can avoid it so I'm trying to understand why meeting the requirements on the specs page is not enough.

Thanks for any insight.

Vince Maxwell
 Topic: painting sandstone.
painting sandstone. [message #129466] Fri, 11 December 2015 07:36 UTC
avatar MYMiniTwin  is currently offline MYMiniTwin
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i have printed some full color models they print just fine but i would like to know it it possible to fine tune the models manually by brush and paint. has anyone tried water color or oil paint?

2 Selfies to Real Mini Figures
 Topic: European challenge for digital artisans
European challenge for digital artisans [message #124459] Fri, 23 October 2015 12:13 UTC
avatar digiproject_sapienza  is currently offline digiproject_sapienza
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"Third Open Innovation Challenge" is an European challenge dedicated to creative teams and traditional/digital artisans! The contest has been realized by DigiLab (Sapienza University of Rome) and Instituto Andaluz del Patrimonio Historico (IAPH) of Seville, and launched by Europeana Food&Drink.
Core of the competition is the making of a 2D or 3D product, re-using an Europeana Food&Drink digital library content. Product and its stages of production must be documented by a video, (lasting max. 11 minutes) which has to be uploaded to official platform until 20th December 2015.
Can partecipate European professionists, enterprises, free-lancers, students, creative teams, and passionate of handicraft and creative industry.

To be won 2000€ for each category, (2D and 3D). Awarding cerimony will take place in Seville on January, the 29th 2016.

Here's the official Facebook Page link: nmn

Looking forward your job!

 Topic: tolerance for gold and gold plated rings
tolerance for gold and gold plated rings [message #123933] Mon, 12 October 2015 14:02 UTC
avatar night647  is currently offline night647
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Hi, i would like to know whats the tolerance for gold rings-polished and brass gold platted rings.

I want to print a size 7 gold ring and a copy of this one gold plated, and I need to know how accurate are the print, what Icare the most is about the gold ring I need it to be size 7, does shapeways take the polishing/contraction into account or should I do it in the stl file? if so how much smaller should I make it? any sort of guidelines, or does shapeways make sure the ring is the right size?

thanks for your time.
 Topic: From proto type model to finished print
From proto type model to finished print [message #123681] Sun, 04 October 2015 16:30 UTC
avatar Ayewondery  is currently offline Ayewondery
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When you have finished a new model or design where do start when you order a print?

Have a new model that want to print in stainless steel or brass to make jewlery. but was wondering if there is a an order to this?

should someone

1) order an print in "wsf" to test out the design for any mistakes or maybe changes to the model is an affordable material and could you then move on to the metal materials?

2) or go straight into the stainless steel

asking this for the following reason my design is priced at $ 9.00 for "white strong" base material. With the price at $40.00 for the steel and higher for brass and higher for silver .

Another question.......
If it prints in one will it also print in another?


[Updated on: Wed, 07 October 2015 17:13 UTC]

 Topic: Large object material choices
Large object material choices [message #120557] Tue, 04 August 2015 15:48 UTC
avatar daveargent1  is currently offline daveargent1
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I'm wanting to print a black plastic ring approximately 440mm in diameter but only about 1800mm2 in cross section, so although its large, its not got a large volume. the surface is simply curved, a little bit like an inflated inner tube for a bike and I need it to be as clean a finish as possible, and not look like its been 3D printed.

Can anyone advise on whether this will be possible at such a scale?


  • Attachment: Ring.stl
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 Topic: Info
Info [message #120253] Thu, 30 July 2015 14:49 UTC
avatar Pokerman  is currently offline Pokerman
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I have a windshield washer fluid reservoir that I have had the CAD work done that we are trying to replicate , it is a very simple piece that is approximately 6" x 6" x 3" but of course it is taller since it needs to hold the washer fluid it will be under the hood of the car so the temperature will probably be around 200+ degrees and the printed washer bottle needs to resemble the look of a milk carton what type of material should I use for this and what type of printer would give me the best quality
 Topic: Anyone else having issues with colour contamination on dyed SFP pieces?
Anyone else having issues with colour contamination on dyed SFP pieces? [message #119346] Thu, 16 July 2015 09:50 UTC
avatar MeganGrace  is currently offline MeganGrace
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I've had the problem a few times recently where my orders of SFP models in pink and yellow have had smudges/scuffs of other colours on them. Customer Service has been helpful and given me refunds, as well as assuring me that the production team will be more careful, but I'm worried that if it continues to happen, it'll cause me problems with delivery to customers in the future. It's more or less ok to solve on a short-term basis with refunds, but as I say, I'm concerned that it'll happen again when I'm in a time-crunch to deliver an order (as is the case with some new orders currently on their way in the post).

I'm wondering if I've just been unlucky, or if this is a wider problem?

 Topic: shoulder axle/pin/shaft/dowel pin for rotation?
shoulder axle/pin/shaft/dowel pin for rotation? [message #118067] Wed, 24 June 2015 17:39 UTC
avatar shape_marc  is currently offline shape_marc
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I would like to
- create a shouldered pin* in order to glue gearwheels** to it
- ask you for any advice or link that may hint me towards a solution, material suggestions or external manufacturers

i already had a look at misumi, conrad, rscomponents, alibaba, ebay, amazon "small parts" ...
but could not find any suitable solution, wonder, if this part can be 3d printed.
Any ideas are highly appreciated:

* pin's dimensions:

diameter__1 mm______________2.5 mm__________1 mm
length____2 mm______________13 mm___________2 mm

**Gearwheels to attach: made from delrin & brass.
These gearwheels are spinning at a speed of ca. 4000 rounds per minute
(a "prototype" worked well with superglued-gearwheels:
I used 1mm steel wire surrounded by heat-shrinked tube)

 Topic: Intersection geometry
Intersection geometry [message #117974] Tue, 23 June 2015 09:00 UTC
avatar PaulMcCann  is currently offline PaulMcCann
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Hi, im new here , trying to get a basics of 3d printing and now preparing a model for it. well, i create model in 3ds max then added shel modifier , and i got such picture. so what to do next with it?

[Updated on: Tue, 23 June 2015 09:01 UTC]

 Topic: At what point does WSF become rigid/strong rather as opposed to being flexible?
At what point does WSF become rigid/strong rather as opposed to being flexible? [message #117189] Fri, 12 June 2015 13:59 UTC
avatar MrDGWalters72  is currently offline MrDGWalters72
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I would like to know when designing my models the point at which WSF becomes rigid/strong as opposed to being flexible.


I have a model in which the bounding box is 100mm x 50mm x 25mm, the design is pretty much a rectangular box. Would this model be rigid if it was hollowed out with a 3mm thick wall or would it still remain flexible?

Basically I would like to know what thickness of wall would best yield a stronger more rigid model.

Many thanks for your help.


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 Topic: Level of 'erosion' from polish?
Level of 'erosion' from polish? [message #115589] Sun, 17 May 2015 08:42 UTC
avatar thegreger  is currently offline thegreger
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I'm considering printing a topgraphic model of a mountain lake in silver, to be used as a small piece of jewelry (about 7x4 cm, so maybe 3 inches tall). However, I'm concerned about whether to choose raw or polished silver. My two concerns are
a) Printing lines. Obviously, my decision on whether to polish it or not depends on how pronounced these artefacts are.
b) Surface erosion from polishing. Since it's an alpine lake, it's very important to me to capture the jagged structure of the surrounding mountains. With a model this small, I'm concerned that the polishing process might leave me with smoother edges and less detail, giving the impression of smooth hills rather than dramatic mountains.

Does anyone here have experience with ordering unpolished silver models and polishing them yourselves to get the desired results? Is it even possible to get rid of printing lines and similar structures yourself, or will I need special tools? In that case, I could polish selectively, focusing more on flat surfaces like the lake and leaving the mountain edges more or less alone.

I'd be really grateful for any input. All I have to go by so far is a google image search.

[Updated on: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:44 UTC]

 Topic: Adobe Illustrator or photoshop ?
Adobe Illustrator or photoshop ? [message #115324] Tue, 12 May 2015 02:47 UTC
avatar tsneed0409  is currently offline tsneed0409
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Hello Shapeway Team,

is it possible for me to use Adobe Illustrator or photoshop for my 3D design?
 Topic: Choosing a steel for my model - difference between polished grey and stainless?
Choosing a steel for my model - difference between polished grey and stainless? [message #112622] Sat, 21 March 2015 14:12 UTC
avatar Rustysworkshop  is currently offline Rustysworkshop
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So I am printing a model in steel and have been trying to decide on a finish but the differences are really not that clear to me. Mainly what is the difference between polished grey and stainless? And I'm guessing nickel is basically the same as polished grey but with a lighter tone.
 Topic: Cappuccino cup 300cm cubed? This seems wrong...
Cappuccino cup 300cm cubed? This seems wrong... [message #111787] Mon, 09 March 2015 02:49 UTC
avatar ClanranaldDesign  is currently offline ClanranaldDesign
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I designed a cappuccino cup that is 16x14x7, and Shapeways says that it is 288cm cubed and over $1000 dollars for stainless steel. This seems wrong. The file I uploaded was a .dae. I'm wondering if it's a fault with my design, or what. I even put an escape hole on the bottom just in case, but same result. Attached is a picture of the cup. Any ideas as to how I can fix this issue?

  • Attachment: WHY 288.tiff
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 Topic: Stainless Steel not true to size
Stainless Steel not true to size [message #110975] Mon, 23 February 2015 09:34 UTC
avatar UtilitarianDesigns  is currently offline UtilitarianDesigns
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I recently printed two pieces that are supposed to interconnect. One was make from Strong and Flexible the other Stainless Steel. Unfortunately, they don't fit.

I have printed both pieces in Strong and Flexible and the piece that inserts fit properly inside the other piece. The tolerances I used seems to be sufficient for the Strong and Flexible pieces. However, the 'shell' made of stainless seems to have smaller interior dimensions.

Does anyone else have experience with this and are there recommended tolerances one should plan for if the SS process results in a piece that grew from the model?

Best Regards,

[Updated on: Mon, 23 February 2015 10:12 UTC]

Utilitarian Designs
 Topic: Mini tutorial on how to prepare and export polypainted models from ZBrush to Shapeways
Mini tutorial on how to prepare and export polypainted models from ZBrush to Shapeways [message #110005] Sat, 07 February 2015 23:58 UTC
avatar lensman  is currently offline lensman
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I have just written a tutorial on how to get polypainted models from ZBrush uploaded on to Shapeways for printing, and posted it on ZBrushCentral forums. If you'd like to see any additional comments to the post go have a read here:, otherwise it is printed in its entirety below.

Any non ZBrush users may find some of this helpful too.

I know that a lot of people have come here looking for info on how to get their high-rez, polypainted models exported for 3D Printing, myself included. There is very little in the way of a how-to so I am writing this to show proof of concept and leave it up to you to take further for your needs. I have successfully achieved this with 'reasonably' high-rez models and yet time and again I run into problems. And now with the release of 4R7 my workflow again did not work as before! I have corrected this as you will see below.

This tutorial uses one painted low-rez subtool exported and then uploaded to for printing. Some people will be satisfied with low-rez painted models, but as 3D Printing technology gets better and better, we as artists are going to want something better in terms of sharpness and definition. The question you will have to resolve for yourself, then, is how to get that beautiful 10mil polypainted model down to a decent size for printing. Anyone who hasn't tried this is now immediately thinking "easy - just decimate and project".... Nah, it ain't that easy!

So here we go then. I've just been through this myself working on it for half the day, so I hope I don't mess up any of the steps (I've tried so many things today!).

1) Create a low rez cube Cube3D. Edit Mode, of course, and now Make Polymesh3D. Should be about 512 polys, if I remember right.
2) For poly-painting I like to work with a white surface so click on Material and choose SkinShade4.
3) Click on Color at the top menu and hit FillObject button. Nothing seemingly happens but it has.
4) Because 512 polys is a bit TOO low for painting any sort of detail on, go into your Geometry tab and hit Divide three times taking the subtool to sub-d 4 and about 31,000 polys.
5) In your toolbar at the top turn Zadd OFF and make sure RGB is ON (100% intensity if you want intense color).
6) Now pick any colour(s) you want and paint on the model. Don't make anything fancy because if this doesn't work for you then you won't have wasted a lot of time. But DO make sure whatever you paint will be identifiable when viewed after export as having been successfully translated. In other words don't paint a big red circle in the middle of one of the faces because even if the texture file gets rotated it's still gonna look fine! Perhaps draw some numbers on each of the faces.
7) In the Geometry tab delete all lower sub-divisions of the model or the next part won't work.
8) Here's where it gets a bit mystifying for newcomers to ZBrush... We need to get some UV's onto our model so that we can create a texture to export with our model...So, click on Zplugin at the top and choose UVMaster.
9) In UVMaster leave defaults as they are and simply hit Unwrap. With this low-poly model it should only take a few seconds to do its job, depending on your machine, but with a very high-rez model you may as well have a look out your window waiting for the cows to come home.
10) On we go... In the right hand trays open up the Texture Map tray. Click on Create and then Create from Polypaint.
11) You should have seen the texture pop up in the tray after the above. Now click on Clone Txtr button to the right of the texture icon.
12 Now the texture has popped into the texture icon above your Material icon. Once again we go to Zplugin and this time choose 3D Print Exporter. Yes, the tension is palpable, isn't it?!
13) First of all hit Advance Options near the bottom of the palette. Choose PNG (not JPG as I'll explain later) and uncheck Colors (not really necessary but it will stop your system producing an unnecesary file). All other defaults should remain as provided (I'll discuss the sizing section later). Now click on the VRML button to start the export.
14) Select the directory where the files will go and supply a name.
15) Minimize ZBrush but don't close it yet; I want you to have a look at that texture file orientation later.
16) Navigate to the directory where you saved those files. You should see two files named "your file.wrl" and "your fileTex1.png"
17) Now, here's the bull**** part that was vexing (polite word) me for the longest time today. Compare that PNG file with the icon in ZBrush. They ain't oriented the same are they? So, you say to yourself, simple, all I have to do is rotate the image to look like it does in ZB. Um, no. You need to open your photo editing programme and flip that two rotations clockwise, or 180 degrees total. So now it looks like the one in ZB but flipped left to right. Yeah, you got it, made total sense to me, too! Make sure you save the file with the exact same name or you've just made love to yourself again.
18) Now, I'm using Win 8.1 on a PC so the next part is a piece of cake. You need to create a zipped file with those two files in them however you normally do it. For me it's a matter of selecting the two files, clicking on Share and then the Zip icon. Done. That's it, you're finished. Sort of.

Now what? Well, for me the next part is uploading the file to I won't bore you with the details here. Just remember, if you used the "Inches" scale in 3D Print Exporter you should choose that scale on upload.

Which now segues me into scaling in ZBrush. This is a whole other issue that has been covered many times. Basically, though, if you have a model loaded - a character let's say, and you want to print that out at 5 inches in height. Find out which axis the height of your model is on, go into 3D Print Exporter and on that axis type 5 and then tab. The other axes will scale automatically. Do NOT hit Update Size Ratios once you've reached part 13. In fact, I don't click it all. Make sure any sizing is done BEFORE item 8.

Now, regarding that note I made about choosing the PNG format and not JPG earlier. ZBrush saves the file with the extension JPEG (or at least it did prior to 4R7) and when uploading to Shapeways this is not recognised - their system looks for JPG. Yep, another crappy part about all this that took me ages to figure out.

Despite what I said at the beginning, I did in fact walk through this step by step as I wrote it so I know it works.

If you have any questions by all means ask. I certainly ain't no expert but I'll do my best to help.

Good luck and happy modeling.


Glenn ------ My Website Third Dimension Jewellery
 Topic: pieces over 30cm question
pieces over 30cm question [message #109099] Wed, 28 January 2015 16:29 UTC
avatar antslake  is currently offline antslake
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Regarding printing pieces over 30cm there is a second laser involved in printing nylon. I am curious, what does the overlap look like, and what are the specifications of that overlap? Can it be sanded smooth? What is the max size of the line you would see on an overlap of lasers?

What is art?
 Topic: Articulated designs and polishing box limitations
Articulated designs and polishing box limitations [message #107804] Wed, 14 January 2015 04:47 UTC
avatar draw  is currently offline draw
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Here's an interesting issue with regards to printer versus polisher bounding box rules.

Let's say I have an articulated design that is optimized to minimize price (by pennies) but this results in a design that is just slightly larger than the polishing box. For example, as far as I can tell the following design topology of two parts connected by a loop along the same axis line is as close as I can get to having minimal cost based on machine and material spaces. However it's about 9mm too big in the long dimension for the polished metallic plastic specification but just fine for regular metallic plastic. But obviously since it is articulated it would certainly fit into the polishing unit. So there is a desire to somehow register a rejection exemption either automatically or during the manual check phase for such cases.


Any change in relative positions, such as rotating one part 90 degrees or even 10 or 20 degrees, would get it to pass auto-check but the price would increase because of the strong sensitivities to machine space. And in this particular case having the same relative orientation for both parts is desired to achieve the same behaviors with the screw threads so it would be best to have both be aligned on the same axis. (One part screws into the other.)

The same general principle could apply to things like chains, where any bends in the chain would increase wasted machine space and cost. So, could there be a way to change the reject status based on articulation topology in such cases, without getting things bogged down in customer service with post rejection appeals?

[Updated on: Thu, 15 January 2015 19:45 UTC]

 Topic: New Auto check fail!? *** Edit: solved... works again!***
New Auto check fail!? *** Edit: solved... works again!*** [message #107640] Sun, 11 January 2015 12:08 UTC
avatar kaadesign  is currently offline kaadesign
Messages: 303
Registered: May 2014
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Senior Member
Uploaded without changes 3 hours later,- now no issues...


what happened on Shapeways Auto Check?

All not printable?

Regards kaadesign



[Updated on: Sun, 11 January 2015 16:27 UTC]

 Topic: FUD Problems
FUD Problems [message #106519] Wed, 31 December 2014 18:58 UTC
avatar pt103dotcom  is currently offline pt103dotcom
Messages: 0
Registered: May 2014
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Junior Member
Greetings all. I'm having a problem similar to several other recent prints. Lumpy finish as well as warping and artifacts:

My customer is not happy, he contacted ShapeWays and the rep told him he would ask for a reprint. That's fine but I don't understand how this went out the door. The warp is particularly troubling, even the sprues look like they sag. Any advice would be appreciated.

 Topic: Are materials RoHS compliant?
Are materials RoHS compliant? [message #105559] Fri, 19 December 2014 00:45 UTC
avatar twbarefoot  is currently offline twbarefoot
Messages: 0
Registered: November 2014
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Junior Member

Are any or all of your materials RoHS compliant?

 Topic: Need designer to convert Maya file of character for 3D printing - time sensitive
Need designer to convert Maya file of character for 3D printing - time sensitive [message #105480] Wed, 17 December 2014 15:17 UTC
avatar nicole_m_andersson  is currently offline nicole_m_andersson
Messages: 0
Registered: December 2014
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Junior Member
Hi All Designers!

I'm looking for a designer who can help me convert a Maya animation file into a water-tight .STL or other 3D printing file for upload. Please contact me at o r 518-496-2387. Attached is a PNG of the character I'm trying to print. Let me know your availability and your rate. It's simply file conversion and potential model manipulation. No 3D modeling necessary for this job.

Thanks so much!

 Topic: Detail Acrylic materials safe for piercing?
Detail Acrylic materials safe for piercing? [message #104599] Tue, 09 December 2014 20:35 UTC
avatar Jacob_Buitenwerf  is currently offline Jacob_Buitenwerf
Messages: 0
Registered: January 2014
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Junior Member
I have a client who wants a pair of earrings, and wants part of the actual earring to go through her piercing. She would prefer not to print in metal, since she wants to paint the earrings, but porous materials are terrible for putting in piercings as they can trap bacteria and cause infections. I'm curious as to how porous the Detail Acrylic materials are, and whether it would to safe to have something printed in one in a piercing for most of the day (being removed at night).
 Topic: Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing
Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing [message #103863] Thu, 27 November 2014 15:00 UTC
avatar MMFAcademy  is currently offline MMFAcademy
Messages: 0
Registered: November 2014
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Junior Member
Want to become an Expert in 3D printing and 3D design?

MyMiniFactory is offering you the chance to learn from industry leading professionals in the first MyMiniFactory Academy course starting end of January 2015.

For more information follow the link :

or email


[Updated on: Fri, 28 November 2014 11:13 UTC]

 Topic: Question on thickness for a very simple shape to be printed in steel or silver
Question on thickness for a very simple shape to be printed in steel or silver [message #103644] Mon, 24 November 2014 22:54 UTC
avatar mdurli  is currently offline mdurli
Messages: 0
Registered: February 2013
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Junior Member

this is the shape I would like to print, it's part of a pendant: l?li=aeTabs

Thickness is 1mm, sides and bottom.
I have the following questions:

1) I read that minimum wall for steel should be 1mm and for silver 0,8mm, but being the shape very basic, can I reduce the thickness while still being sure of a safe result?

2) I had the model made by a friend, she used Cinema4D. I see in the render that the mesh is not smooth like in other renders I see on the site.
Should I ask her to make the curves more smooth (more polygons I guess), or being the shape small and the material steel/silver, the physical result will be smooth enough?

3) I'd like to engrave something in the shape. To be readable, how deep and thick should be the engraving?

4) I want also to make another shape, a master, that will be used to create a negative mold, that will be used to create the original shape in ceramic.
Which material should I use for printing the master? Detail plastic would be fine?

Thank you!

 Topic: Detail in silver, question
Detail in silver, question [message #103426] Sat, 22 November 2014 02:44 UTC
avatar NineAmulets  is currently offline NineAmulets
Messages: 14
Registered: June 2013
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Junior Member
I've printed a ring on Frosted (ultra) detail to see how the ring would print. The details are amazing, I'm very happy with it. My question is: If I print the same ring in polished silver, would I have the same amount of details? .html?materialId=23

Thank you

[Updated on: Sat, 22 November 2014 02:44 UTC]

 Topic: Sinter-Shells and Cleaning
Sinter-Shells and Cleaning [message #103417] Fri, 21 November 2014 23:20 UTC
avatar Brian_Richardson  is currently offline Brian_Richardson
Messages: 0
Registered: February 2013
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Junior Member
Recently I received 16 WSF models that were put into sinter-shells (cage around the parts), because they were multi-part files. Due to the sinter-shell, they required a lot of additional cleaning (10-15 minutes per model). Big chunks of nylon powder clinging to parts.

With the future release of the Printability center, there is a sinter-shell tool that allows multiple part models to be shelled to reduce part count/labor costs. My question is, how is Shapeways planning to deal with the excess of dust trapped in the models, and is there going to be a more prominent warning that using sinter-shells will require cleaning by the customer? Right now that line is buried in the wall of text beneath the model picture. I know it's still in beta, so hopefully that will be added.

I'm assuming that most people don't have a large dust collection system, air compressor, and respirator readily available, which would make the dust a bit of a problem. Also, the box was leaking white powder, which is never a good thing to send in the mail (luckily it was in another larger box and none got out).

How unsafe is the dust to breath? Is it like sawdust? Or more hazardous? I have a respirator rated for mold and sawdust and am not sure if that's good enough.
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