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Forum: 3D Printing
 Topic: Large object material choices
Large object material choices [message #120557] Tue, 04 August 2015 15:48 UTC
avatar daveargent1  is currently offline daveargent1
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2015
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I'm wanting to print a black plastic ring approximately 440mm in diameter but only about 1800mm2 in cross section, so although its large, its not got a large volume. the surface is simply curved, a little bit like an inflated inner tube for a bike and I need it to be as clean a finish as possible, and not look like its been 3D printed.

Can anyone advise on whether this will be possible at such a scale?

Dave

  • Attachment: Ring.stl
    (Size: 674.20KB, Downloaded 5 time(s))

 Topic: Info
Info [message #120253] Thu, 30 July 2015 14:49 UTC
avatar Pokerman  is currently offline Pokerman
Messages: 1
Registered: July 2015
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I have a windshield washer fluid reservoir that I have had the CAD work done that we are trying to replicate , it is a very simple piece that is approximately 6" x 6" x 3" but of course it is taller since it needs to hold the washer fluid it will be under the hood of the car so the temperature will probably be around 200+ degrees and the printed washer bottle needs to resemble the look of a milk carton what type of material should I use for this and what type of printer would give me the best quality
 Topic: Anyone else having issues with colour contamination on dyed SFP pieces?
Anyone else having issues with colour contamination on dyed SFP pieces? [message #119346] Thu, 16 July 2015 09:50 UTC
avatar MeganGrace  is currently offline MeganGrace
Messages: 41
Registered: September 2014
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I've had the problem a few times recently where my orders of SFP models in pink and yellow have had smudges/scuffs of other colours on them. Customer Service has been helpful and given me refunds, as well as assuring me that the production team will be more careful, but I'm worried that if it continues to happen, it'll cause me problems with delivery to customers in the future. It's more or less ok to solve on a short-term basis with refunds, but as I say, I'm concerned that it'll happen again when I'm in a time-crunch to deliver an order (as is the case with some new orders currently on their way in the post).

I'm wondering if I've just been unlucky, or if this is a wider problem?

Cheers!
 Topic: Full color Sandstone texture color not same as printed model color
Full color Sandstone texture color not same as printed model color [message #118872] Wed, 08 July 2015 15:12 UTC
avatar bb56  is currently offline bb56
Messages: 5
Registered: September 2010
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I spend a lot of time adjusting colors of my models (mostly human figurines). I upload them as vrml files and the colors that are displayed in the edit screen appear to be reasonably the same. But then when it is printed, the colors no longer match the fidelity and in some cases are way off. The darker colors seem to migrate toward black, while the lighter colors show yellowish in some areas. Some faces show normal flesh colors but have darker reddish areas. Some specifics, dark brown looks black, light brown hair shows brown in the shadow, but yellow in the highlights, a blueish-white sweater, takes on a yellow cast in some areas.

I check the model in the edit screen and it still looks good. So why the difference?

I know that the color gamut of the proJet printers is not very robust, and may differ between models like the 650 and 660. (There was a very interesting video from Adobe on this subject - https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v= iU-yQQ1q54Q#t=481).

SO the question is, what process can we use to more closely match the colors that the proJet printers are capable of printing? Can someone recommend somehow filtering our colors to stay within the color gamut of the printers? Does anyone know of such a filter for, say, blender? Would it make a better color match to use vertex colors or texture files when we submit a model? How about using the Alpha channel RGBA vs RGB when creating texture maps.

It would be helpful to share any color adjustment procedure for multiple 3D tools that are out there. It may possibly lead to better color rendition in the future by getting the myriad of developers to write filters or incorporate into the scanning program code before exporting.

Thanks.

[Updated on: Wed, 08 July 2015 15:40 UTC]

 Topic: shoulder axle/pin/shaft/dowel pin for rotation?
shoulder axle/pin/shaft/dowel pin for rotation? [message #118067] Wed, 24 June 2015 17:39 UTC
avatar shape_marc  is currently offline shape_marc
Messages: 11
Registered: October 2011
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I would like to
- create a shouldered pin* in order to glue gearwheels** to it
- ask you for any advice or link that may hint me towards a solution, material suggestions or external manufacturers

i already had a look at misumi, conrad, rscomponents, alibaba, ebay, amazon "small parts" ...
but could not find any suitable solution, wonder, if this part can be 3d printed.
Any ideas are highly appreciated:

* pin's dimensions:

__________--------------=================---------------
__________left________________center___________right
diameter__1 mm______________2.5 mm__________1 mm
length____2 mm______________13 mm___________2 mm

**Gearwheels to attach: made from delrin & brass.
These gearwheels are spinning at a speed of ca. 4000 rounds per minute
(a "prototype" worked well with superglued-gearwheels:
I used 1mm steel wire surrounded by heat-shrinked tube)

 Topic: Intersection geometry
Intersection geometry [message #117974] Tue, 23 June 2015 09:00 UTC
avatar PaulMcCann  is currently offline PaulMcCann
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2015
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Hi, im new here , trying to get a basics of 3d printing and now preparing a model for it. well, i create model in 3ds max then added shel modifier , and i got such picture. so what to do next with it?

[Updated on: Tue, 23 June 2015 09:01 UTC]

 Topic: At what point does WSF become rigid/strong rather as opposed to being flexible?
At what point does WSF become rigid/strong rather as opposed to being flexible? [message #117189] Fri, 12 June 2015 13:59 UTC
avatar RestoToyForce  is currently offline RestoToyForce
Messages: 12
Registered: January 2011
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index.php?t=getfile&id=104059&private=0Hello,

I would like to know when designing my models the point at which WSF becomes rigid/strong as opposed to being flexible.

Example:

I have a model in which the bounding box is 100mm x 50mm x 25mm, the design is pretty much a rectangular box. Would this model be rigid if it was hollowed out with a 3mm thick wall or would it still remain flexible?

Basically I would like to know what thickness of wall would best yield a stronger more rigid model.

Many thanks for your help.

David.index.php?t=getfile&id=104059&private=0

  • Attachment: Capture.JPG
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Resto Toy Force
 Topic: 3D printing stocks
3D printing stocks [message #116381] Fri, 29 May 2015 12:59 UTC
avatar perkyskeleton  is currently offline perkyskeleton
Messages: 1
Registered: May 2015
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I am looking forward to invest in some 3-D printing stocks. The technology seems to have wide range of applications and hence expected to show some good growth. Since I haven't invested for this before, I have gone across several readings on the same and performed my own analysis. I found Stratasys Ltd. (SSYS) worth investing. Anybody who have invested in this before?
 Topic: Level of 'erosion' from polish?
Level of 'erosion' from polish? [message #115589] Sun, 17 May 2015 08:42 UTC
avatar thegreger  is currently offline thegreger
Messages: 1
Registered: September 2012
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I'm considering printing a topgraphic model of a mountain lake in silver, to be used as a small piece of jewelry (about 7x4 cm, so maybe 3 inches tall). However, I'm concerned about whether to choose raw or polished silver. My two concerns are
a) Printing lines. Obviously, my decision on whether to polish it or not depends on how pronounced these artefacts are.
b) Surface erosion from polishing. Since it's an alpine lake, it's very important to me to capture the jagged structure of the surrounding mountains. With a model this small, I'm concerned that the polishing process might leave me with smoother edges and less detail, giving the impression of smooth hills rather than dramatic mountains.

Does anyone here have experience with ordering unpolished silver models and polishing them yourselves to get the desired results? Is it even possible to get rid of printing lines and similar structures yourself, or will I need special tools? In that case, I could polish selectively, focusing more on flat surfaces like the lake and leaving the mountain edges more or less alone.

I'd be really grateful for any input. All I have to go by so far is a google image search.

http://i.imgur.com/swhlQI8.png

[Updated on: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:44 UTC]

 Topic: Adobe Illustrator or photoshop ?
Adobe Illustrator or photoshop ? [message #115324] Tue, 12 May 2015 02:47 UTC
avatar tsneed0409  is currently offline tsneed0409
Messages: 3
Registered: May 2015
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Hello Shapeway Team,

is it possible for me to use Adobe Illustrator or photoshop for my 3D design?
 Topic: What is the rate of shrinkage on Raw Bronze
What is the rate of shrinkage on Raw Bronze [message #114819] Fri, 01 May 2015 17:08 UTC
avatar rkapuaala  is currently offline rkapuaala
Messages: 130
Registered: March 2012
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I'm designing some small parts for bronze castings. I want to use the Shapeways Raw Bronze option under semi precious metals. I've looked in the materials guidelines and I am either missing it or can't find where it describes the percentage we should increase the model so that it will be casted in the correct dimension. This is especially critical for metal parts that are part of a whole model but also for jewelry. So my question is what are the shrink rates for the various metals offered under semi precious metals? Pardon if someone has already asked this question.
 Topic: Choosing a steel for my model - difference between polished grey and stainless?
Choosing a steel for my model - difference between polished grey and stainless? [message #112622] Sat, 21 March 2015 14:12 UTC
avatar Rustysworkshop  is currently offline Rustysworkshop
Messages: 15
Registered: July 2013
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So I am printing a model in steel and have been trying to decide on a finish but the differences are really not that clear to me. Mainly what is the difference between polished grey and stainless? And I'm guessing nickel is basically the same as polished grey but with a lighter tone.
 Topic: Cappuccino cup 300cm cubed? This seems wrong...
Cappuccino cup 300cm cubed? This seems wrong... [message #111787] Mon, 09 March 2015 02:49 UTC
avatar ClanranaldDesign  is currently offline ClanranaldDesign
Messages: 5
Registered: February 2015
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I designed a cappuccino cup that is 16x14x7, and Shapeways says that it is 288cm cubed and over $1000 dollars for stainless steel. This seems wrong. The file I uploaded was a .dae. I'm wondering if it's a fault with my design, or what. I even put an escape hole on the bottom just in case, but same result. Attached is a picture of the cup. Any ideas as to how I can fix this issue?

  • Attachment: WHY 288.tiff
    (Size: 19.17KB, Downloaded 29 time(s))

 Topic: Stainless Steel not true to size
Stainless Steel not true to size [message #110975] Mon, 23 February 2015 09:34 UTC
avatar UtilitarianDesigns  is currently offline UtilitarianDesigns
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2015
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Hi.

I recently printed two pieces that are supposed to interconnect. One was make from Strong and Flexible the other Stainless Steel. Unfortunately, they don't fit.

I have printed both pieces in Strong and Flexible and the piece that inserts fit properly inside the other piece. The tolerances I used seems to be sufficient for the Strong and Flexible pieces. However, the 'shell' made of stainless seems to have smaller interior dimensions.

Does anyone else have experience with this and are there recommended tolerances one should plan for if the SS process results in a piece that grew from the model?

Best Regards,
B

[Updated on: Mon, 23 February 2015 10:12 UTC]


Utilitarian Designs
 Topic: Mini tutorial on how to prepare and export polypainted models from ZBrush to Shapeways
Mini tutorial on how to prepare and export polypainted models from ZBrush to Shapeways [message #110005] Sat, 07 February 2015 23:58 UTC
avatar lensman  is currently offline lensman
Messages: 1732
Registered: December 2009
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Shapie Expert
I have just written a tutorial on how to get polypainted models from ZBrush uploaded on to Shapeways for printing, and posted it on ZBrushCentral forums. If you'd like to see any additional comments to the post go have a read here:, otherwise it is printed in its entirety below.

Any non ZBrush users may find some of this helpful too.

I know that a lot of people have come here looking for info on how to get their high-rez, polypainted models exported for 3D Printing, myself included. There is very little in the way of a how-to so I am writing this to show proof of concept and leave it up to you to take further for your needs. I have successfully achieved this with 'reasonably' high-rez models and yet time and again I run into problems. And now with the release of 4R7 my workflow again did not work as before! I have corrected this as you will see below.

This tutorial uses one painted low-rez subtool exported and then uploaded to Shapeways.com for printing. Some people will be satisfied with low-rez painted models, but as 3D Printing technology gets better and better, we as artists are going to want something better in terms of sharpness and definition. The question you will have to resolve for yourself, then, is how to get that beautiful 10mil polypainted model down to a decent size for printing. Anyone who hasn't tried this is now immediately thinking "easy - just decimate and project".... Nah, it ain't that easy!

So here we go then. I've just been through this myself working on it for half the day, so I hope I don't mess up any of the steps (I've tried so many things today!).

1) Create a low rez cube Cube3D. Edit Mode, of course, and now Make Polymesh3D. Should be about 512 polys, if I remember right.
2) For poly-painting I like to work with a white surface so click on Material and choose SkinShade4.
3) Click on Color at the top menu and hit FillObject button. Nothing seemingly happens but it has.
4) Because 512 polys is a bit TOO low for painting any sort of detail on, go into your Geometry tab and hit Divide three times taking the subtool to sub-d 4 and about 31,000 polys.
5) In your toolbar at the top turn Zadd OFF and make sure RGB is ON (100% intensity if you want intense color).
6) Now pick any colour(s) you want and paint on the model. Don't make anything fancy because if this doesn't work for you then you won't have wasted a lot of time. But DO make sure whatever you paint will be identifiable when viewed after export as having been successfully translated. In other words don't paint a big red circle in the middle of one of the faces because even if the texture file gets rotated it's still gonna look fine! Perhaps draw some numbers on each of the faces.
7) In the Geometry tab delete all lower sub-divisions of the model or the next part won't work.
8) Here's where it gets a bit mystifying for newcomers to ZBrush... We need to get some UV's onto our model so that we can create a texture to export with our model...So, click on Zplugin at the top and choose UVMaster.
9) In UVMaster leave defaults as they are and simply hit Unwrap. With this low-poly model it should only take a few seconds to do its job, depending on your machine, but with a very high-rez model you may as well have a look out your window waiting for the cows to come home.
10) On we go... In the right hand trays open up the Texture Map tray. Click on Create and then Create from Polypaint.
11) You should have seen the texture pop up in the tray after the above. Now click on Clone Txtr button to the right of the texture icon.
12 Now the texture has popped into the texture icon above your Material icon. Once again we go to Zplugin and this time choose 3D Print Exporter. Yes, the tension is palpable, isn't it?!
13) First of all hit Advance Options near the bottom of the palette. Choose PNG (not JPG as I'll explain later) and uncheck Colors (not really necessary but it will stop your system producing an unnecesary file). All other defaults should remain as provided (I'll discuss the sizing section later). Now click on the VRML button to start the export.
14) Select the directory where the files will go and supply a name.
15) Minimize ZBrush but don't close it yet; I want you to have a look at that texture file orientation later.
16) Navigate to the directory where you saved those files. You should see two files named "your file.wrl" and "your fileTex1.png"
17) Now, here's the bull**** part that was vexing (polite word) me for the longest time today. Compare that PNG file with the icon in ZBrush. They ain't oriented the same are they? So, you say to yourself, simple, all I have to do is rotate the image to look like it does in ZB. Um, no. You need to open your photo editing programme and flip that two rotations clockwise, or 180 degrees total. So now it looks like the one in ZB but flipped left to right. Yeah, you got it, made total sense to me, too! Make sure you save the file with the exact same name or you've just made love to yourself again.
18) Now, I'm using Win 8.1 on a PC so the next part is a piece of cake. You need to create a zipped file with those two files in them however you normally do it. For me it's a matter of selecting the two files, clicking on Share and then the Zip icon. Done. That's it, you're finished. Sort of.

Now what? Well, for me the next part is uploading the file to Shapeways.com. I won't bore you with the details here. Just remember, if you used the "Inches" scale in 3D Print Exporter you should choose that scale on upload.

Which now segues me into scaling in ZBrush. This is a whole other issue that has been covered many times. Basically, though, if you have a model loaded - a character let's say, and you want to print that out at 5 inches in height. Find out which axis the height of your model is on, go into 3D Print Exporter and on that axis type 5 and then tab. The other axes will scale automatically. Do NOT hit Update Size Ratios once you've reached part 13. In fact, I don't click it all. Make sure any sizing is done BEFORE item 8.

Now, regarding that note I made about choosing the PNG format and not JPG earlier. ZBrush saves the file with the extension JPEG (or at least it did prior to 4R7) and when uploading to Shapeways this is not recognised - their system looks for JPG. Yep, another crappy part about all this that took me ages to figure out.

Despite what I said at the beginning, I did in fact walk through this step by step as I wrote it so I know it works.

If you have any questions by all means ask. I certainly ain't no expert but I'll do my best to help.

Good luck and happy modeling.

index.php?t=getfile&id=88140&private=0


Glenn ------ My Website Third Dimension Jewellery
 Topic: pieces over 30cm question
pieces over 30cm question [message #109099] Wed, 28 January 2015 16:29 UTC
avatar antslake  is currently offline antslake
Messages: 5
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Regarding printing pieces over 30cm there is a second laser involved in printing nylon. I am curious, what does the overlap look like, and what are the specifications of that overlap? Can it be sanded smooth? What is the max size of the line you would see on an overlap of lasers?
Thanks


What is art?
 Topic: Articulated designs and polishing box limitations
Articulated designs and polishing box limitations [message #107804] Wed, 14 January 2015 04:47 UTC
avatar draw  is currently offline draw
Messages: 362
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Here's an interesting issue with regards to printer versus polisher bounding box rules.

Let's say I have an articulated design that is optimized to minimize price (by pennies) but this results in a design that is just slightly larger than the polishing box. For example, as far as I can tell the following design topology of two parts connected by a loop along the same axis line is as close as I can get to having minimal cost based on machine and material spaces. However it's about 9mm too big in the long dimension for the polished metallic plastic specification but just fine for regular metallic plastic. But obviously since it is articulated it would certainly fit into the polishing unit. So there is a desire to somehow register a rejection exemption either automatically or during the manual check phase for such cases.

index.php?t=getfile&id=84795&private=0

Any change in relative positions, such as rotating one part 90 degrees or even 10 or 20 degrees, would get it to pass auto-check but the price would increase because of the strong sensitivities to machine space. And in this particular case having the same relative orientation for both parts is desired to achieve the same behaviors with the screw threads so it would be best to have both be aligned on the same axis. (One part screws into the other.)

The same general principle could apply to things like chains, where any bends in the chain would increase wasted machine space and cost. So, could there be a way to change the reject status based on articulation topology in such cases, without getting things bogged down in customer service with post rejection appeals?


[Updated on: Thu, 15 January 2015 19:45 UTC]

 Topic: New Auto check fail!? *** Edit: solved... works again!***
New Auto check fail!? *** Edit: solved... works again!*** [message #107640] Sun, 11 January 2015 12:08 UTC
avatar kaadesign  is currently offline kaadesign
Messages: 183
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EDIT:
Uploaded without changes 3 hours later,- now no issues...

Hello,

what happened on Shapeways Auto Check?

All not printable?

Regards kaadesign


index.php?t=getfile&id=84162&private=0

index.php?t=getfile&id=84163&private=0





[Updated on: Sun, 11 January 2015 16:27 UTC]

 Topic: FUD Problems
FUD Problems [message #106519] Wed, 31 December 2014 18:58 UTC
avatar pt103dotcom  is currently offline pt103dotcom
Messages: 7
Registered: May 2014
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Greetings all. I'm having a problem similar to several other recent prints. Lumpy finish as well as warping and artifacts:

http://pt103.com/images/asst/ShapeWaysPrintErrors.jpg

My customer is not happy, he contacted ShapeWays and the rep told him he would ask for a reprint. That's fine but I don't understand how this went out the door. The warp is particularly troubling, even the sprues look like they sag. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff
 Topic: Are materials RoHS compliant?
Are materials RoHS compliant? [message #105559] Fri, 19 December 2014 00:45 UTC
avatar twbarefoot  is currently offline twbarefoot
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2014
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Hi,

Are any or all of your materials RoHS compliant?

Thanks!
 Topic: Need designer to convert Maya file of character for 3D printing - time sensitive
Need designer to convert Maya file of character for 3D printing - time sensitive [message #105480] Wed, 17 December 2014 15:17 UTC
avatar nicole_m_andersson  is currently offline nicole_m_andersson
Messages: 1
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Hi All Designers!

I'm looking for a designer who can help me convert a Maya animation file into a water-tight .STL or other 3D printing file for upload. Please contact me at nicole.m.andersson@gmail.com o r 518-496-2387. Attached is a PNG of the character I'm trying to print. Let me know your availability and your rate. It's simply file conversion and potential model manipulation. No 3D modeling necessary for this job.

Thanks so much!

 Topic: Detail Acrylic materials safe for piercing?
Detail Acrylic materials safe for piercing? [message #104599] Tue, 09 December 2014 20:35 UTC
avatar Jacob_Buitenwerf  is currently offline Jacob_Buitenwerf
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2014
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I have a client who wants a pair of earrings, and wants part of the actual earring to go through her piercing. She would prefer not to print in metal, since she wants to paint the earrings, but porous materials are terrible for putting in piercings as they can trap bacteria and cause infections. I'm curious as to how porous the Detail Acrylic materials are, and whether it would to safe to have something printed in one in a piercing for most of the day (being removed at night).
 Topic: Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing
Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing [message #103863] Thu, 27 November 2014 15:00 UTC
avatar MMFAcademy  is currently offline MMFAcademy
Messages: 3
Registered: November 2014
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Want to become an Expert in 3D printing and 3D design?

MyMiniFactory is offering you the chance to learn from industry leading professionals in the first MyMiniFactory Academy course starting end of January 2015.

For more information follow the link : http://myminifactory.com/pages/myminifactory-academy

or email academy@myminifactory.com.

-----
http://www.myminifactory.com/
http://www.facebook.com/myminiF
http://twitter.com/myminifactory

[Updated on: Fri, 28 November 2014 11:13 UTC]

 Topic: Question on thickness for a very simple shape to be printed in steel or silver
Question on thickness for a very simple shape to be printed in steel or silver [message #103644] Mon, 24 November 2014 22:54 UTC
avatar mdurli  is currently offline mdurli
Messages: 16
Registered: February 2013
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Hello,

this is the shape I would like to print, it's part of a pendant:

http://www.shapeways.com/model/2884653/scocca-con-foro-2.htm l?li=aeTabs

Thickness is 1mm, sides and bottom.
I have the following questions:

1) I read that minimum wall for steel should be 1mm and for silver 0,8mm, but being the shape very basic, can I reduce the thickness while still being sure of a safe result?

2) I had the model made by a friend, she used Cinema4D. I see in the render that the mesh is not smooth like in other renders I see on the site.
Should I ask her to make the curves more smooth (more polygons I guess), or being the shape small and the material steel/silver, the physical result will be smooth enough?

3) I'd like to engrave something in the shape. To be readable, how deep and thick should be the engraving?

4) I want also to make another shape, a master, that will be used to create a negative mold, that will be used to create the original shape in ceramic.
Which material should I use for printing the master? Detail plastic would be fine?

Thank you!
Mattia





 Topic: Detail in silver, question
Detail in silver, question [message #103426] Sat, 22 November 2014 02:44 UTC
avatar Windhorse  is currently offline Windhorse
Messages: 13
Registered: June 2013
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I've printed a ring on Frosted (ultra) detail to see how the ring would print. The details are amazing, I'm very happy with it. My question is: If I print the same ring in polished silver, would I have the same amount of details?

https://www.shapeways.com/model/1805271/star-and-moon-size-9 .html?materialId=23

Thank you

[Updated on: Sat, 22 November 2014 02:44 UTC]

 Topic: Sinter-Shells and Cleaning
Sinter-Shells and Cleaning [message #103417] Fri, 21 November 2014 23:20 UTC
avatar Brian_Richardson  is currently offline Brian_Richardson
Messages: 120
Registered: February 2013
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Recently I received 16 WSF models that were put into sinter-shells (cage around the parts), because they were multi-part files. Due to the sinter-shell, they required a lot of additional cleaning (10-15 minutes per model). Big chunks of nylon powder clinging to parts.

With the future release of the Printability center, there is a sinter-shell tool that allows multiple part models to be shelled to reduce part count/labor costs. My question is, how is Shapeways planning to deal with the excess of dust trapped in the models, and is there going to be a more prominent warning that using sinter-shells will require cleaning by the customer? Right now that line is buried in the wall of text beneath the model picture. I know it's still in beta, so hopefully that will be added.

I'm assuming that most people don't have a large dust collection system, air compressor, and respirator readily available, which would make the dust a bit of a problem. Also, the box was leaking white powder, which is never a good thing to send in the mail (luckily it was in another larger box and none got out).

How unsafe is the dust to breath? Is it like sawdust? Or more hazardous? I have a respirator rated for mold and sawdust and am not sure if that's good enough.
 Topic: How can I colour faces to prepare a model for Full Colour Sandstone, please?
How can I colour faces to prepare a model for Full Colour Sandstone, please? [message #102483] Thu, 06 November 2014 17:59 UTC
avatar MeganGrace  is currently offline MeganGrace
Messages: 41
Registered: September 2014
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Member
Hi,

I'm looking to print in the Full Colour Sandstone, but I can't work out how to apply colour per face!
It sounds easy in the Shapeways tutorial:
https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/exporting_to_vrml_and_x3 d_for_color_printing
...but I can't work out how to do this in Rhino.

So, is it possible to colour model faces in Rhino?
If not, which program can I use?


Many thanks for your comments!
 Topic: How deep does the dye/printed color penetrate?
How deep does the dye/printed color penetrate? [message #101621] Wed, 22 October 2014 23:49 UTC
avatar TrentTroop  is currently offline TrentTroop
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Since spruing has become something of a requirement of late, I was wondering if there was any general estimation of how deeply the dye tends to soak into a single color Strong and Flexible print, or how far in the full color strong and flexible print goes. I've set the point of contact on most of my sprues as a 1mm in diameter cylinder and I'm hoping to minimize unsightly white spots and the like once things are de-sprued.

I'd know sooner from direct experience, but the printers are apparently quite backlogged.
 Topic: Mini Kossel 3D printer fan attachment
Mini Kossel 3D printer fan attachment [message #101580] Wed, 22 October 2014 12:48 UTC
avatar oskar_slanina  is currently offline oskar_slanina
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2014
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Junior Member
Hi! I ve got a question about mounting a fan to my Mini Kossel.... Do I even need it?
 Topic: 3d model to clip to laptop
3d model to clip to laptop [message #101381] Fri, 17 October 2014 14:48 UTC
avatar cheerioboy  is currently offline cheerioboy
Messages: 1
Registered: July 2011
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Junior Member
Hi,

Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice for printing material to be used in a 'clip' that will hold a camera to the top of my laptop. It's a macbook air with aluminum back and glass/screen on front. Any suggestions for the material I print in? I'm already thinking I might also put some strips of tape or rubber on the inside of the clip that will touch the laptop.

thanks!
 Topic: Frosted Detail FD fit tolerance for hole and shaft
Frosted Detail FD fit tolerance for hole and shaft [message #99537] Tue, 30 September 2014 20:27 UTC
avatar ramon9000  is currently offline ramon9000
Messages: 2
Registered: July 2014
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Junior Member
I am designing a part made using Frosted Detail that has a hole into which a 12mm diameter shaft must fit.
The 12 mm shaft is also FD and is 10mm long.
The shaft is driven by a servo and will rotate in the hole during normal use.
If the nominal diameter of the FD shaft is 12 mm (I don't know what the actual printed diameter will be) what should the nominal diameter of the FD hole be?
Thanks.
Ray
 Topic: Ceramic wall size
Ceramic wall size [message #97173] Wed, 27 August 2014 13:30 UTC
avatar PrettyNiceArt  is currently offline PrettyNiceArt
Messages: 4
Registered: May 2013
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Junior Member
Hi all!

I'm currently working on a design in ceramics and things would look way better with my shape (a wire-like shape) ending in a point with a rounding of around 3 millimetre. Unfortunately the minimum wall size for ceramics is 6 millimetre in my case.

My question: If I would make a regular pencil design on a scale that respects the wall size: Could I end it with a point below the 6 millimetre?

I understand it might break but since my object are only to look at I'm willing to take that risk. The length of the ending of my wire that wouldn't be at least 6 millimetre would be 3 centimetres at most.

Also out of curiosity: Does anyone know how breakable is that 6 mm to begin with? Would it be tight for a sculpture?

If that makes sense, thanks for your help!

Valkenburger
 Topic: Polished Nickel Steel not so polished anymore
Polished Nickel Steel not so polished anymore [message #93587] Tue, 08 July 2014 06:29 UTC
avatar josgall  is currently offline josgall
Messages: 3
Registered: September 2013
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Junior Member
I have been ordering the same Polished Nickel Steel Model since November. Over 50 of these same models @ 16.75 each. I have noticed that in the last month the Polished Nickel Steel is not as polished and shiny as it used to be when it arrived. The build up that I have to remove from the crevices of the model with a pick has also increased. I have contacted support with two separate incidents about it and I am getting answers like "sorry for the inconvenience" etc. I just want to know if the process has been modified in the last month or two for the Polished Nickel Steel and if it has, when it will be put back to the way it was. I already know something has changed. It's visible in my photos and I have never had a defect until this last month. I just want some confirmation here so I can start shopping around for other options if that's what I need to do. I want my models to be how they were in Nov-Mar again! What happened??!!!!
 Topic: Zprinter 650 color problem - white side
Zprinter 650 color problem - white side [message #88309] Wed, 23 April 2014 10:15 UTC
avatar 3Print  is currently offline 3Print
Messages: 1
Registered: April 2014
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Junior Member
Hi, We have zprint 650.
We'r useing VisiJet® PXL material.

After 3d print We get model with white side.
index.php?t=getfile&id=57750&private=0

When printer works from right to left, white side is showing on left side of model.

Can u tell me what Should we do to fix this problem ?

We did :
- auto alignment
- new material
- new heads
- witness part

everything is not working.

Check photo.

Ty for help.

 Topic: tracking parts
tracking parts [message #87257] Fri, 04 April 2014 02:11 UTC
avatar ChristopherCordingley  is currently offline ChristopherCordingley
Messages: 12
Registered: February 2010
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Junior Member
The polishing step for WSF seems like a good opportunity for parts to get mixed up. How are similar looking parts kept track of when their slight differences are specific to each customer?

Thanks!
-Chris
 Topic: Waste material
Waste material [message #87005] Mon, 31 March 2014 16:02 UTC
avatar gautham  is currently offline gautham
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2014
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Junior Member
Hello,

Currently there is an increasing number of private 3D printing users in the world. I am one of the many 3D enthusiast who loves to create new products that are only limited by ones imagination. Like many I too face the problem with a high percentage of waste material. This led me towards filament extruders. I realized that there is a huge room for improvement in current filament extruders. I would like to explore this opportunity. Hence, would like your help and support by filling the below survey.

http://goo.gl/7zuz8P

I really appreciate your help.
Thank you.
 Topic: Movable Fixing
Movable Fixing [message #86611] Sun, 23 March 2014 14:30 UTC
avatar duram  is currently offline duram
Messages: 18
Registered: October 2013
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Junior Member
Some holes to pass an axle to turn free are very tight and not moving, what is
the best way to polish and increase it? heat? drill?

When printing movable parts what is the distance between them I have to draw to print tight but not totally
hard to move so i´ll need polishing later?

The material is the basic plastic you have (white)

[Updated on: Sun, 23 March 2014 14:31 UTC]

 Topic: Lead time of Elasto-Plastic
Lead time of Elasto-Plastic [message #86260] Sat, 15 March 2014 17:55 UTC
avatar abite2  is currently offline abite2
Messages: 31
Registered: June 2013
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Member
Hi,

Recently, I noticed the lead time of Elasto-Plastic was changed to 16 days.
As I remember, it was around 8~10 days. Is it seriously 16 days?

Joe.

[Updated on: Thu, 20 March 2014 06:58 UTC]

 Topic: 3D printing & 3D Models | Manan Interactive
3D printing & 3D Models | Manan Interactive [message #85926] Fri, 07 March 2014 13:23 UTC
avatar mananinteractive  is currently offline mananinteractive
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2014
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Junior Member
The world is expanding and so the technology. Nowadays the processes to create a product starts with a 3D model. Depending on the requirements of the plannings, manufacturers starts the prototype process. This process contains mainly of 3D printing. Te parts of the product are printed with a 3D printer, which is developed by an another manufacturer. You can print everything you want with a 3D printer. It's an innovation.

Nowadays we almost can print everything from almost all existing raw materials e.g. plastic, metal, aluminum. Manan Interactive is specialized in 3D design and 3D printing for private, companies, manufacturers etc. Depending on your 3D model, we calculate all details for end result overview to make you sure the quality is perfect and a low price. Manan Interactive is flexible, so we always communicate with our customers before we start.

[Updated on: Fri, 07 March 2014 13:46 UTC] by Moderator

 Topic: Warping in an older FD model
Warping in an older FD model [message #85832] Wed, 05 March 2014 13:53 UTC
avatar tebee  is currently offline tebee
Messages: 465
Registered: December 2010
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Senior Member
I recently had an enquiry for one of my older models and I remembered that I'd done a test print of them almost a couple years ago in FD. Infact this one I had problem with the first print, and had to get get Shapeways to do a reprint. The original thread is here. https://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&goto=478 07

However, when I went to get the model, I opened the box it's in and found it had warped considerably.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-10mKUa_Ppcw/UxcpsFhhz8I/AAAAAAABaL0/V4CgviDoC8g/s800/IMG_9229.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Rd-Lfa95xNc/UxcpNZcs-QI/AAAAAAABaLU/_zMxXnUw2Z4/s800/IMG_9225.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5B_KK2QZtn0/UxcpQojQW5I/AAAAAAABaLc/ZD2pfTOdmWc/s800/IMG_9226.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-75YLzdlpeos/UxcpXbTgJ4I/AAAAAAABaLk/Iph9SGeIMW8/s800/IMG_9227.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kdFQDlbQd3Y/UxcpooU2n9I/AAAAAAABaLs/HwgpqMSHV8c/s800/IMG_9228.JPG

Any idea what could have caused this ? The plastic now feels soft and almost rubbery to the touch. As far as I know all that has happened to this is was washed in alcohol to remove the wax and was then photographed and stashed in a plastic air-tight container to keep it clean. It's been in an unheated room in rural France so might have suffered freezing, but would not have had excessively high temperatures.

Oddly enough the original faulty model was in the same box and that has suffered the same problems, but another loco produced at the same time seems fine.

Tom

[Updated on: Wed, 05 March 2014 13:55 UTC]

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