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Forum: 3D Printing
 Topic: Stainless Steel not true to size
Stainless Steel not true to size [message #110975] Mon, 23 February 2015 09:34 UTC
avatar bkterhune  is currently offline bkterhune
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2015
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Junior Member

I recently printed two pieces that are supposed to interconnect. One was make from Strong and Flexible the other Stainless Steel. Unfortunately, they don't fit.

I have printed both pieces in Strong and Flexible and the piece that inserts fit properly inside the other piece. The tolerances I used seems to be sufficient for the Strong and Flexible pieces. However, the 'shell' made of stainless seems to have smaller interior dimensions.

Does anyone else have experience with this and are there recommended tolerances one should plan for if the SS process results in a piece that grew from the model?

Best Regards,

[Updated on: Mon, 23 February 2015 10:12 UTC]

 Topic: How to Export From Maya 2014 to DAE, WRL, X3D, X3DB, or X3DV?
How to Export From Maya 2014 to DAE, WRL, X3D, X3DB, or X3DV? [message #110960] Mon, 23 February 2015 02:55 UTC
avatar Raizer  is currently offline Raizer
Messages: 1
Registered: August 2011
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How to Export From Maya 2014 to DAE, WRL, X3D, X3DB, or X3DV?

I have a model I'm trying to upload for Full Color Plastic and the site is not reading my textures, it's saying there's no color in the model. I'm uploading a zip file with the following files:
- 6 PNG files (even tried with JPG)
- 1 OBJ file
- 1 MTL file for the OBJ file
- (Even tried adding the original Maya .mb file for kicks, textures assigned, of course)"

I asked for help from Shapeways and they responded:

"To get the desired result, please upload the model in the following formats:
ZIP folder containing:
Model in DAE, WRL, X3D, X3DB, X3DV
Textures in GIF, JPG, PNG

We cannot accept OBJ or MTL files for full color printing.
Thanks for understanding."

One problem, how to export from Maya 2014 to DAE? OpenCollada only supports up to Maya 2012 I believe, and exporting to DAE_FBX only gives errors and nothing works in the file. I cannot find a solid for sure answer on a proven way that works when I search online. I need help please!!

~ Raizer
 Topic: Mini tutorial on how to prepare and export polypainted models from ZBrush to Shapeways
Mini tutorial on how to prepare and export polypainted models from ZBrush to Shapeways [message #110005] Sat, 07 February 2015 23:58 UTC
avatar lensman  is currently offline lensman
Messages: 1695
Registered: December 2009
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Shapie Expert
I have just written a tutorial on how to get polypainted models from ZBrush uploaded on to Shapeways for printing, and posted it on ZBrushCentral forums. If you'd like to see any additional comments to the post go have a read here:, otherwise it is printed in its entirety below.

Any non ZBrush users may find some of this helpful too.

I know that a lot of people have come here looking for info on how to get their high-rez, polypainted models exported for 3D Printing, myself included. There is very little in the way of a how-to so I am writing this to show proof of concept and leave it up to you to take further for your needs. I have successfully achieved this with 'reasonably' high-rez models and yet time and again I run into problems. And now with the release of 4R7 my workflow again did not work as before! I have corrected this as you will see below.

This tutorial uses one painted low-rez subtool exported and then uploaded to for printing. Some people will be satisfied with low-rez painted models, but as 3D Printing technology gets better and better, we as artists are going to want something better in terms of sharpness and definition. The question you will have to resolve for yourself, then, is how to get that beautiful 10mil polypainted model down to a decent size for printing. Anyone who hasn't tried this is now immediately thinking "easy - just decimate and project".... Nah, it ain't that easy!

So here we go then. I've just been through this myself working on it for half the day, so I hope I don't mess up any of the steps (I've tried so many things today!).

1) Create a low rez cube Cube3D. Edit Mode, of course, and now Make Polymesh3D. Should be about 512 polys, if I remember right.
2) For poly-painting I like to work with a white surface so click on Material and choose SkinShade4.
3) Click on Color at the top menu and hit FillObject button. Nothing seemingly happens but it has.
4) Because 512 polys is a bit TOO low for painting any sort of detail on, go into your Geometry tab and hit Divide three times taking the subtool to sub-d 4 and about 31,000 polys.
5) In your toolbar at the top turn Zadd OFF and make sure RGB is ON (100% intensity if you want intense color).
6) Now pick any colour(s) you want and paint on the model. Don't make anything fancy because if this doesn't work for you then you won't have wasted a lot of time. But DO make sure whatever you paint will be identifiable when viewed after export as having been successfully translated. In other words don't paint a big red circle in the middle of one of the faces because even if the texture file gets rotated it's still gonna look fine! Perhaps draw some numbers on each of the faces.
7) In the Geometry tab delete all lower sub-divisions of the model or the next part won't work.
8) Here's where it gets a bit mystifying for newcomers to ZBrush... We need to get some UV's onto our model so that we can create a texture to export with our model...So, click on Zplugin at the top and choose UVMaster.
9) In UVMaster leave defaults as they are and simply hit Unwrap. With this low-poly model it should only take a few seconds to do its job, depending on your machine, but with a very high-rez model you may as well have a look out your window waiting for the cows to come home.
10) On we go... In the right hand trays open up the Texture Map tray. Click on Create and then Create from Polypaint.
11) You should have seen the texture pop up in the tray after the above. Now click on Clone Txtr button to the right of the texture icon.
12 Now the texture has popped into the texture icon above your Material icon. Once again we go to Zplugin and this time choose 3D Print Exporter. Yes, the tension is palpable, isn't it?!
13) First of all hit Advance Options near the bottom of the palette. Choose PNG (not JPG as I'll explain later) and uncheck Colors (not really necessary but it will stop your system producing an unnecesary file). All other defaults should remain as provided (I'll discuss the sizing section later). Now click on the VRML button to start the export.
14) Select the directory where the files will go and supply a name.
15) Minimize ZBrush but don't close it yet; I want you to have a look at that texture file orientation later.
16) Navigate to the directory where you saved those files. You should see two files named "your file.wrl" and "your fileTex1.png"
17) Now, here's the bull**** part that was vexing (polite word) me for the longest time today. Compare that PNG file with the icon in ZBrush. They ain't oriented the same are they? So, you say to yourself, simple, all I have to do is rotate the image to look like it does in ZB. Um, no. You need to open your photo editing programme and flip that two rotations clockwise, or 180 degrees total. So now it looks like the one in ZB but flipped left to right. Yeah, you got it, made total sense to me, too! Make sure you save the file with the exact same name or you've just made love to yourself again.
18) Now, I'm using Win 8.1 on a PC so the next part is a piece of cake. You need to create a zipped file with those two files in them however you normally do it. For me it's a matter of selecting the two files, clicking on Share and then the Zip icon. Done. That's it, you're finished. Sort of.

Now what? Well, for me the next part is uploading the file to I won't bore you with the details here. Just remember, if you used the "Inches" scale in 3D Print Exporter you should choose that scale on upload.

Which now segues me into scaling in ZBrush. This is a whole other issue that has been covered many times. Basically, though, if you have a model loaded - a character let's say, and you want to print that out at 5 inches in height. Find out which axis the height of your model is on, go into 3D Print Exporter and on that axis type 5 and then tab. The other axes will scale automatically. Do NOT hit Update Size Ratios once you've reached part 13. In fact, I don't click it all. Make sure any sizing is done BEFORE item 8.

Now, regarding that note I made about choosing the PNG format and not JPG earlier. ZBrush saves the file with the extension JPEG (or at least it did prior to 4R7) and when uploading to Shapeways this is not recognised - their system looks for JPG. Yep, another crappy part about all this that took me ages to figure out.

Despite what I said at the beginning, I did in fact walk through this step by step as I wrote it so I know it works.

If you have any questions by all means ask. I certainly ain't no expert but I'll do my best to help.

Good luck and happy modeling.


Glenn ------ My Website Third Dimension Jewellery
 Topic: pieces over 30cm question
pieces over 30cm question [message #109099] Wed, 28 January 2015 16:29 UTC
avatar antslake  is currently offline antslake
Messages: 5
Registered: March 2013
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Regarding printing pieces over 30cm there is a second laser involved in printing nylon. I am curious, what does the overlap look like, and what are the specifications of that overlap? Can it be sanded smooth? What is the max size of the line you would see on an overlap of lasers?

What is art?
 Topic: Articulated designs and polishing box limitations
Articulated designs and polishing box limitations [message #107804] Wed, 14 January 2015 04:47 UTC
avatar draw  is currently offline draw
Messages: 258
Registered: March 2013
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Here's an interesting issue with regards to printer versus polisher bounding box rules.

Let's say I have an articulated design that is optimized to minimize price (by pennies) but this results in a design that is just slightly larger than the polishing box. For example, as far as I can tell the following design topology of two parts connected by a loop along the same axis line is as close as I can get to having minimal cost based on machine and material spaces. However it's about 9mm too big in the long dimension for the polished metallic plastic specification but just fine for regular metallic plastic. But obviously since it is articulated it would certainly fit into the polishing unit. So there is a desire to somehow register a rejection exemption either automatically or during the manual check phase for such cases.


Any change in relative positions, such as rotating one part 90 degrees or even 10 or 20 degrees, would get it to pass auto-check but the price would increase because of the strong sensitivities to machine space. And in this particular case having the same relative orientation for both parts is desired to achieve the same behaviors with the screw threads so it would be best to have both be aligned on the same axis. (One part screws into the other.)

The same general principle could apply to things like chains, where any bends in the chain would increase wasted machine space and cost. So, could there be a way to change the reject status based on articulation topology in such cases, without getting things bogged down in customer service with post rejection appeals?

[Updated on: Thu, 15 January 2015 19:45 UTC]

 Topic: New Auto check fail!? *** Edit: solved... works again!***
New Auto check fail!? *** Edit: solved... works again!*** [message #107640] Sun, 11 January 2015 12:08 UTC
avatar kaadesign  is currently offline kaadesign
Messages: 99
Registered: May 2014
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Uploaded without changes 3 hours later,- now no issues...


what happened on Shapeways Auto Check?

All not printable?

Regards kaadesign



[Updated on: Sun, 11 January 2015 16:27 UTC]

 Topic: FUD Problems
FUD Problems [message #106519] Wed, 31 December 2014 18:58 UTC
avatar pt103dotcom  is currently offline pt103dotcom
Messages: 1
Registered: May 2014
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Greetings all. I'm having a problem similar to several other recent prints. Lumpy finish as well as warping and artifacts:

My customer is not happy, he contacted ShapeWays and the rep told him he would ask for a reprint. That's fine but I don't understand how this went out the door. The warp is particularly troubling, even the sprues look like they sag. Any advice would be appreciated.

 Topic: Are materials RoHS compliant?
Are materials RoHS compliant? [message #105559] Fri, 19 December 2014 00:45 UTC
avatar twbarefoot  is currently offline twbarefoot
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2014
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Are any or all of your materials RoHS compliant?

 Topic: Need designer to convert Maya file of character for 3D printing - time sensitive
Need designer to convert Maya file of character for 3D printing - time sensitive [message #105480] Wed, 17 December 2014 15:17 UTC
avatar nicole_m_andersson  is currently offline nicole_m_andersson
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2014
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Hi All Designers!

I'm looking for a designer who can help me convert a Maya animation file into a water-tight .STL or other 3D printing file for upload. Please contact me at o r 518-496-2387. Attached is a PNG of the character I'm trying to print. Let me know your availability and your rate. It's simply file conversion and potential model manipulation. No 3D modeling necessary for this job.

Thanks so much!

 Topic: Detail Acrylic materials safe for piercing?
Detail Acrylic materials safe for piercing? [message #104599] Tue, 09 December 2014 20:35 UTC
avatar Jacob_Buitenwerf  is currently offline Jacob_Buitenwerf
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2014
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I have a client who wants a pair of earrings, and wants part of the actual earring to go through her piercing. She would prefer not to print in metal, since she wants to paint the earrings, but porous materials are terrible for putting in piercings as they can trap bacteria and cause infections. I'm curious as to how porous the Detail Acrylic materials are, and whether it would to safe to have something printed in one in a piercing for most of the day (being removed at night).
 Topic: Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing
Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing [message #103863] Thu, 27 November 2014 15:00 UTC
avatar MMFAcademy  is currently offline MMFAcademy
Messages: 3
Registered: November 2014
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Want to become an Expert in 3D printing and 3D design?

MyMiniFactory is offering you the chance to learn from industry leading professionals in the first MyMiniFactory Academy course starting end of January 2015.

For more information follow the link :

or email


[Updated on: Fri, 28 November 2014 11:13 UTC]

 Topic: Question on thickness for a very simple shape to be printed in steel or silver
Question on thickness for a very simple shape to be printed in steel or silver [message #103644] Mon, 24 November 2014 22:54 UTC
avatar mdurli  is currently offline mdurli
Messages: 10
Registered: February 2013
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this is the shape I would like to print, it's part of a pendant: l?li=aeTabs

Thickness is 1mm, sides and bottom.
I have the following questions:

1) I read that minimum wall for steel should be 1mm and for silver 0,8mm, but being the shape very basic, can I reduce the thickness while still being sure of a safe result?

2) I had the model made by a friend, she used Cinema4D. I see in the render that the mesh is not smooth like in other renders I see on the site.
Should I ask her to make the curves more smooth (more polygons I guess), or being the shape small and the material steel/silver, the physical result will be smooth enough?

3) I'd like to engrave something in the shape. To be readable, how deep and thick should be the engraving?

4) I want also to make another shape, a master, that will be used to create a negative mold, that will be used to create the original shape in ceramic.
Which material should I use for printing the master? Detail plastic would be fine?

Thank you!

 Topic: Detail in silver, question
Detail in silver, question [message #103426] Sat, 22 November 2014 02:44 UTC
avatar Windhorse  is currently offline Windhorse
Messages: 13
Registered: June 2013
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I've printed a ring on Frosted (ultra) detail to see how the ring would print. The details are amazing, I'm very happy with it. My question is: If I print the same ring in polished silver, would I have the same amount of details? .html?materialId=23

Thank you

[Updated on: Sat, 22 November 2014 02:44 UTC]

 Topic: Sinter-Shells and Cleaning
Sinter-Shells and Cleaning [message #103417] Fri, 21 November 2014 23:20 UTC
avatar Brian_Richardson  is currently offline Brian_Richardson
Messages: 97
Registered: February 2013
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Recently I received 16 WSF models that were put into sinter-shells (cage around the parts), because they were multi-part files. Due to the sinter-shell, they required a lot of additional cleaning (10-15 minutes per model). Big chunks of nylon powder clinging to parts.

With the future release of the Printability center, there is a sinter-shell tool that allows multiple part models to be shelled to reduce part count/labor costs. My question is, how is Shapeways planning to deal with the excess of dust trapped in the models, and is there going to be a more prominent warning that using sinter-shells will require cleaning by the customer? Right now that line is buried in the wall of text beneath the model picture. I know it's still in beta, so hopefully that will be added.

I'm assuming that most people don't have a large dust collection system, air compressor, and respirator readily available, which would make the dust a bit of a problem. Also, the box was leaking white powder, which is never a good thing to send in the mail (luckily it was in another larger box and none got out).

How unsafe is the dust to breath? Is it like sawdust? Or more hazardous? I have a respirator rated for mold and sawdust and am not sure if that's good enough.
 Topic: How can I colour faces to prepare a model for Full Colour Sandstone, please?
How can I colour faces to prepare a model for Full Colour Sandstone, please? [message #102483] Thu, 06 November 2014 17:59 UTC
avatar m36an  is currently offline m36an
Messages: 9
Registered: September 2014
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I'm looking to print in the Full Colour Sandstone, but I can't work out how to apply colour per face!
It sounds easy in the Shapeways tutorial: d_for_color_printing
...but I can't work out how to do this in Rhino.

So, is it possible to colour model faces in Rhino?
If not, which program can I use?

Many thanks for your comments!
 Topic: How deep does the dye/printed color penetrate?
How deep does the dye/printed color penetrate? [message #101621] Wed, 22 October 2014 23:49 UTC
avatar TrentTroop  is currently offline TrentTroop
Messages: 7
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Since spruing has become something of a requirement of late, I was wondering if there was any general estimation of how deeply the dye tends to soak into a single color Strong and Flexible print, or how far in the full color strong and flexible print goes. I've set the point of contact on most of my sprues as a 1mm in diameter cylinder and I'm hoping to minimize unsightly white spots and the like once things are de-sprued.

I'd know sooner from direct experience, but the printers are apparently quite backlogged.
 Topic: Mini Kossel 3D printer fan attachment
Mini Kossel 3D printer fan attachment [message #101580] Wed, 22 October 2014 12:48 UTC
avatar oskar_slanina  is currently offline oskar_slanina
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2014
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Hi! I ve got a question about mounting a fan to my Mini Kossel.... Do I even need it?
 Topic: 3d model to clip to laptop
3d model to clip to laptop [message #101381] Fri, 17 October 2014 14:48 UTC
avatar cheerioboy  is currently offline cheerioboy
Messages: 1
Registered: July 2011
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Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice for printing material to be used in a 'clip' that will hold a camera to the top of my laptop. It's a macbook air with aluminum back and glass/screen on front. Any suggestions for the material I print in? I'm already thinking I might also put some strips of tape or rubber on the inside of the clip that will touch the laptop.

 Topic: Frosted Detail FD fit tolerance for hole and shaft
Frosted Detail FD fit tolerance for hole and shaft [message #99537] Tue, 30 September 2014 20:27 UTC
avatar ramon9000  is currently offline ramon9000
Messages: 2
Registered: July 2014
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I am designing a part made using Frosted Detail that has a hole into which a 12mm diameter shaft must fit.
The 12 mm shaft is also FD and is 10mm long.
The shaft is driven by a servo and will rotate in the hole during normal use.
If the nominal diameter of the FD shaft is 12 mm (I don't know what the actual printed diameter will be) what should the nominal diameter of the FD hole be?
 Topic: Ceramic wall size
Ceramic wall size [message #97173] Wed, 27 August 2014 13:30 UTC
avatar Valkenburger  is currently offline Valkenburger
Messages: 2
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Hi all!

I'm currently working on a design in ceramics and things would look way better with my shape (a wire-like shape) ending in a point with a rounding of around 3 millimetre. Unfortunately the minimum wall size for ceramics is 6 millimetre in my case.

My question: If I would make a regular pencil design on a scale that respects the wall size: Could I end it with a point below the 6 millimetre?

I understand it might break but since my object are only to look at I'm willing to take that risk. The length of the ending of my wire that wouldn't be at least 6 millimetre would be 3 centimetres at most.

Also out of curiosity: Does anyone know how breakable is that 6 mm to begin with? Would it be tight for a sculpture?

If that makes sense, thanks for your help!

 Topic: Polished Nickel Steel not so polished anymore
Polished Nickel Steel not so polished anymore [message #93587] Tue, 08 July 2014 06:29 UTC
avatar josgall  is currently offline josgall
Messages: 3
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I have been ordering the same Polished Nickel Steel Model since November. Over 50 of these same models @ 16.75 each. I have noticed that in the last month the Polished Nickel Steel is not as polished and shiny as it used to be when it arrived. The build up that I have to remove from the crevices of the model with a pick has also increased. I have contacted support with two separate incidents about it and I am getting answers like "sorry for the inconvenience" etc. I just want to know if the process has been modified in the last month or two for the Polished Nickel Steel and if it has, when it will be put back to the way it was. I already know something has changed. It's visible in my photos and I have never had a defect until this last month. I just want some confirmation here so I can start shopping around for other options if that's what I need to do. I want my models to be how they were in Nov-Mar again! What happened??!!!!
 Topic: Zprinter 650 color problem - white side
Zprinter 650 color problem - white side [message #88309] Wed, 23 April 2014 10:15 UTC
avatar 3Print  is currently offline 3Print
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Hi, We have zprint 650.
We'r useing VisiJet® PXL material.

After 3d print We get model with white side.

When printer works from right to left, white side is showing on left side of model.

Can u tell me what Should we do to fix this problem ?

We did :
- auto alignment
- new material
- new heads
- witness part

everything is not working.

Check photo.

Ty for help.

 Topic: tracking parts
tracking parts [message #87257] Fri, 04 April 2014 02:11 UTC
avatar ChristopherCordingley  is currently offline ChristopherCordingley
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The polishing step for WSF seems like a good opportunity for parts to get mixed up. How are similar looking parts kept track of when their slight differences are specific to each customer?

 Topic: Waste material
Waste material [message #87005] Mon, 31 March 2014 16:02 UTC
avatar gautham  is currently offline gautham
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2014
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Currently there is an increasing number of private 3D printing users in the world. I am one of the many 3D enthusiast who loves to create new products that are only limited by ones imagination. Like many I too face the problem with a high percentage of waste material. This led me towards filament extruders. I realized that there is a huge room for improvement in current filament extruders. I would like to explore this opportunity. Hence, would like your help and support by filling the below survey.

I really appreciate your help.
Thank you.
 Topic: Movable Fixing
Movable Fixing [message #86611] Sun, 23 March 2014 14:30 UTC
avatar duram  is currently offline duram
Messages: 18
Registered: October 2013
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Some holes to pass an axle to turn free are very tight and not moving, what is
the best way to polish and increase it? heat? drill?

When printing movable parts what is the distance between them I have to draw to print tight but not totally
hard to move so i´ll need polishing later?

The material is the basic plastic you have (white)

[Updated on: Sun, 23 March 2014 14:31 UTC]

 Topic: Lead time of Elasto-Plastic
Lead time of Elasto-Plastic [message #86260] Sat, 15 March 2014 17:55 UTC
avatar abite2  is currently offline abite2
Messages: 31
Registered: June 2013
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Recently, I noticed the lead time of Elasto-Plastic was changed to 16 days.
As I remember, it was around 8~10 days. Is it seriously 16 days?


[Updated on: Thu, 20 March 2014 06:58 UTC]

 Topic: 3D printing & 3D Models | Manan Interactive
3D printing & 3D Models | Manan Interactive [message #85926] Fri, 07 March 2014 13:23 UTC
avatar mananinteractive  is currently offline mananinteractive
Messages: 1
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The world is expanding and so the technology. Nowadays the processes to create a product starts with a 3D model. Depending on the requirements of the plannings, manufacturers starts the prototype process. This process contains mainly of 3D printing. Te parts of the product are printed with a 3D printer, which is developed by an another manufacturer. You can print everything you want with a 3D printer. It's an innovation.

Nowadays we almost can print everything from almost all existing raw materials e.g. plastic, metal, aluminum. Manan Interactive is specialized in 3D design and 3D printing for private, companies, manufacturers etc. Depending on your 3D model, we calculate all details for end result overview to make you sure the quality is perfect and a low price. Manan Interactive is flexible, so we always communicate with our customers before we start.

[Updated on: Fri, 07 March 2014 13:46 UTC] by Moderator

 Topic: Warping in an older FD model
Warping in an older FD model [message #85832] Wed, 05 March 2014 13:53 UTC
avatar tebee  is currently offline tebee
Messages: 457
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I recently had an enquiry for one of my older models and I remembered that I'd done a test print of them almost a couple years ago in FD. Infact this one I had problem with the first print, and had to get get Shapeways to do a reprint. The original thread is here. 07

However, when I went to get the model, I opened the box it's in and found it had warped considerably.

Any idea what could have caused this ? The plastic now feels soft and almost rubbery to the touch. As far as I know all that has happened to this is was washed in alcohol to remove the wax and was then photographed and stashed in a plastic air-tight container to keep it clean. It's been in an unheated room in rural France so might have suffered freezing, but would not have had excessively high temperatures.

Oddly enough the original faulty model was in the same box and that has suffered the same problems, but another loco produced at the same time seems fine.


[Updated on: Wed, 05 March 2014 13:55 UTC]

 Topic: Printing with spures (intakes) for raw brass
Printing with spures (intakes) for raw brass [message #85359] Mon, 24 February 2014 13:39 UTC
avatar jkiss56  is currently offline jkiss56
Messages: 6
Registered: July 2010
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I would like to print railroad models using raw brass. In opposite of jewelry, I have very limited options where to put the intakes for bras poured into mold.
(I don't want to lost fine details on visible surface)

I want to design the model with intakes at specified places. The question is, how to instruct the shapeways staff to use intakes defined by me and not a random one.
(A used a competitive service and they put the intake in the middle of visible side destroying the details :-) )


 Topic: Overglazing 3D printed Ceramics
Overglazing 3D printed Ceramics [message #85308] Sun, 23 February 2014 19:32 UTC
avatar tonyguntermann  is currently offline tonyguntermann
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2011
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Has anyone refired a 3d printed ceramic piece with an overglaze?
I think a gold overglaze added to a white 3d printed piece would look really cool.
Also, does anyone know the specs of the glaze Shapeways uses on the ceramic pieces?
 Topic: PTFE
PTFE [message #84918] Fri, 14 February 2014 20:44 UTC
avatar HazelwoodModels  is currently offline HazelwoodModels
Messages: 54
Registered: April 2013
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Has anyone checked into PTFE as a material for printing, where a bearing surface is required
for moving parts?

It would certainly open a lot of opportunities for the modeller.

[Updated on: Mon, 24 February 2014 18:50 UTC]

 Topic: Any talk of a WSF upgrade?
Any talk of a WSF upgrade? [message #81430] Tue, 17 December 2013 04:05 UTC
avatar ChristopherCordingley  is currently offline ChristopherCordingley
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I would love to know if one may come soon...only higher res with tigher clearance?

 Topic: 3" diameter hard plastic cylinder/plug
3" diameter hard plastic cylinder/plug [message #81349] Sun, 15 December 2013 23:34 UTC
avatar GeologyRocks  is currently offline GeologyRocks
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2013
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Junior Member
Trying to find something that I can put into a cup holder in my truck and screw a tablet mount into. 3D printing seems like the most logical option outside of cutting some wood or finding scrap metal.

Is there a 3D printing plastic hard enough that when cured will allow me to mount a bracket to it with small screws?
How difficult would it be to create something like this? I don't have a 3D printer so I would require someone to print it for me.

[Updated on: Sun, 15 December 2013 23:35 UTC]

 Topic: Findings for jewellery
Findings for jewellery [message #80747] Sat, 07 December 2013 22:09 UTC
avatar foeer  is currently offline foeer
Messages: 2
Registered: February 2013
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Junior Member
Hi all,

Does shapeways offer findings for jewellery or is this something people print when they upload the model? I see a lot of findings in the gallery pictures, but not sure how it works.

Has anyone tried printing findings? Is stainless steel best? Do they have any visible stratification?

 Topic: Dying/colouring/anodising alumide or other metals
Dying/colouring/anodising alumide or other metals [message #80743] Sat, 07 December 2013 21:38 UTC
avatar foeer  is currently offline foeer
Messages: 2
Registered: February 2013
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Junior Member
Hi all, has anyone tried colouring alumide? I'd like to produce a fairly simply range of jewellery with the strength, durability and weight of metal, but with a surface that is coloured and not too obviously metal.

Ideally I'd love to powdercoat (I've tried spraypaint but not durable at all), so where can I do this online? I'm in Australia so preferably options that have cheaper shipping!

 Topic: Does it make any sense for sprues to be thicker than the pieces they Join?
Does it make any sense for sprues to be thicker than the pieces they Join? [message #80287] Sun, 01 December 2013 16:55 UTC
avatar tebee  is currently offline tebee
Messages: 457
Registered: December 2010
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Senior Member
I've just had another rejection of a WSF print because a 2mm long sprue joining two 0.8 mm parts is also only 0.8 mm thick although it is 1 mm wide.

Now I know rules is rules and this is strictly speaking outside the design guidelines, but in this case what purpose would be served by making it thicker ? It's still going to have a week point where it joins the 0.8mm thick parts on either side.

For me it's more of a problem as I have many designs that were done before the guidelines changed, but it seems that now 60-80% of my rejections are because of sprues.

I'm beginning to think that the solution may just be to eliminate the sprues, alright it will cause more work for the people cleaning and packing the models, and some smaller parts might get lost, but it would eliminate the rejections - I think it might be the lesser evil.


 Topic: Premium Sterling Silver and pointy lapel pins
Premium Sterling Silver and pointy lapel pins [message #80211] Fri, 29 November 2013 19:20 UTC
avatar mdavisstudios  is currently offline mdavisstudios
Messages: 13
Registered: December 2009
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Junior Member
I tried ordering a lapel pin -->( in polished sterling silver in the past, and was a bit disappointed that the pin part didn't come out that pointy, that is pointy enough to be nice to clothes if worn often or as pointy as a typical commercially produced lapel pin.

Can I expect a premium silver lapel pin to come out nice and pointy?

Or anyone have experience/tips producing lapel pins with shapeways?

 Topic: Help with Ceramic Shot Glass
Help with Ceramic Shot Glass [message #79950] Tue, 26 November 2013 23:53 UTC
avatar JGarrett  is currently offline JGarrett
Messages: 26
Registered: January 2013
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Junior Member
The model shown here is a shot glass. I have designed the wall thickness of this particular model according to the ceramic wall guidelines but the embossing and the engraving (text and fonts shown) are only 1.5mm. Does anyone have experience printing engravings and embossings at this scale in ceramic. Was you're print rejected, etc.or can I (and others) get away with it? The overall height of my model is 76mm (3 inc) and the outer wall is 4.5mm. Thanks, J


 Topic: 3D Printing for objects from fluid simulator?
3D Printing for objects from fluid simulator? [message #78072] Sun, 03 November 2013 18:03 UTC
avatar sun_ray  is currently offline sun_ray
Messages: 3
Registered: May 2013
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Junior Member
Hello together,
I have a nice object to 3D-print.
Its an object thats created by the fluid siumulator of Blender. When I check the resulted mesh, I found self-intersecting faces.
Is this a problem for the 3D-printer?
Does anybody knows how i can get rid of these lettle intersections?
I have actuall really no idea how to solve this.
please help!!!
 Topic: Color change of dyed plastic
Color change of dyed plastic [message #77444] Thu, 24 October 2013 09:42 UTC
avatar Ina_  is currently offline Ina_
Messages: 2
Registered: March 2012
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Junior Member
My brief experience with the dyed plastic, coral red polished in particular, is that dark spots will appear. I've already had this problem on delivery (Shapeways was kind enough the replace the faulty pieces) but am noticing now that the red items will develop spots over time. I store the items in a closet but have already removed the items from the closed plastic bags they are delivered in because I thought keeping them in a closed bag might be the cause of the black spots...

Also, is it possible the red plastic becomes darker over time (not in spots but just the piece in general) ?

Has anyone else experienced these problems with the dyed plastic as well ?
Many thanks in advance for your input.
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