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Forum: 3D Design
 Topic: Any way to estimate weight in 14k gold ?
Any way to estimate weight in 14k gold ? [message #147728] Tue, 31 May 2016 15:15 UTC
avatar iamtj  is currently offline iamtj
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When i put in my 3D image of a ring it tells me the price in 14k gold will be $1396.22. Is there any way to tell what the weight will be ? I have attached the file, if any one can help me that would be great. Thanks.

 Topic: Will my keyring idea/design fit together?
Will my keyring idea/design fit together? [message #147600] Mon, 30 May 2016 17:00 UTC
avatar Mattiacus  is currently offline Mattiacus
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I have this keyring design, that can be combined to form a full car, but can alternatively split into three separate keyrings. The trouble I am having is understanding whether it will all fit together, how much clearance is needed between holes and will the holes fit a keyring loop? If anyone has any ideas that would be great. I have uploaded the model and a picture to help.

Alternatively if anyone has a different interlocking idea that would also be great!

index.php?t=getfile&id=155484&private=0

Thanks,

Matt

  • Attachment: final4.obj
    (Size: 2.55MB, Downloaded 4 time(s))

  • Attachment: Capture.PNG
    (Size: 122.27KB, Downloaded 23 time(s))

[Updated on: Mon, 30 May 2016 17:35 UTC]

 Topic: Possible or not?
Possible or not? [message #145097] Sat, 07 May 2016 18:59 UTC
avatar KevK  is currently offline KevK
Messages: 18
Registered: June 2014
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Hey,

I have a little problem, I made a kind of motor with a few parts, and I want to know if this is gonna work?

If I upload the file, There is showed that it's 1 part, and if I count, I see 9 loose parts.

I have checked the minimum space between the parts and I think it is big enough too be printed seperately in plastic. ( 0,5 MM)

Am I right?

Greetings,
KevK

[Updated on: Sat, 21 May 2016 18:05 UTC]


https://www.shapeways.com/shops/KevK
 Topic: Any of you shapies writing your own software?
Any of you shapies writing your own software? [message #144714] Tue, 03 May 2016 21:49 UTC
avatar Max_Sinister  is currently offline Max_Sinister
Messages: 31
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Just wondered whether I'm the only one doing that. After understanding how STL files work, I decided to write a script that creates STL files in the shape I want with no steps in between. Definitely helps if you want to make a Menger sponge with four iterations. (Or five, or six... but those are way beyond the 64 MB limit.)

(Since we do have more complicated fractals here, I'd say I'm not the only one doing this...)

[Updated on: Tue, 03 May 2016 21:50 UTC]


FractalForums.com FractalForums.de
 Topic: help with watch idea
help with watch idea [message #144213] Sat, 30 April 2016 13:14 UTC
avatar johnscotthowell  is currently offline johnscotthowell
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Hello,

I need help with a detachable watch face that houses a component. The outer housing of the watch would stay on the wrist when the face is removed and the face is locked onto the band by a turning mechanism without any moving parts. There would be a rectangular portal at the top and bottom of the watch face for an led light and a rectangular portal at the back for charging that goes through the band. This face is to house a watch component similar to a smartwatch. So I need a design based on the samsung phase 2 smartwatches housing with a detachable face that is able to be turned to lock in and has three small portals, one at the top of the face, one at the bottom and another in the back for charging.
 Topic: Question on properties of PVA
Question on properties of PVA [message #144159] Sat, 30 April 2016 09:10 UTC
avatar tejaprakashkakarla  is currently offline tejaprakashkakarla
Messages: 1
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If I dissolve a 3D printed object made of PVA material in water, does that pollute the water?
 Topic: Need help with model using ZBrush
Need help with model using ZBrush [message #141394] Sat, 09 April 2016 03:18 UTC
avatar KreativeKirk  is currently offline KreativeKirk
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I am having trouble figuring out how I can go from a hollow(2mm wall thickness) model back to having it solid? I hired a professional 3D artist months ago to make me an action figure of a character as he hollowed out the main body, having a 2mm wall thickness. Since the articulation parts on my model did not work as I have planned, I am redoing the a few articulation parts on the model but I need matter, something that is solid to make negative cuts from as I can't do it if its hollowed out like this. I attached a few pictures showing the main body of the model which I want solid again. You can see the 2mm wall, but I need to figure out how to make this piece solid again. I've tried to use the Clay Buildup brush to build up volume in the model for inside but it just makes a mess and distorts the other side.

I was told by my modeler the following:


1) First make the inner and outer surfaces 2 separate 'polygroups'.
(for that you just need to draw a full round continuous mask between the inner and outer surfaces and make that a separate polygroup by hitting 'group masked button' (with polished value 0). hide that part and then hit 'delete hidden' and then hit the 'Auto groups' button. That will make the whole model 2 separate polygroups, inner and outer.

2) Delete the inner polygroup (second surface) by hiding and hitting deleting and then close all unwanted holes and you will get a fully solid model.

The problem is, how do I make a mask between both surfaces? Whenever I try to mask the inside of the mesh, it shows up on the other side(front surface) & vise versa.


Much help is appreciated. Thanks!


-KreativeKirk

 Topic: Durable, Strong Material and Model Accuracy
Durable, Strong Material and Model Accuracy [message #140788] Sun, 03 April 2016 03:24 UTC
avatar natealexander  is currently offline natealexander
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Hi -

I am new to shapeways and need to have some of my parts printed. I do own a 3D printer so I am familiar to the process of designing and creating objects. However I only print in PLA plastic and it wears down very quickly and some parts don't seem to print correctly. I have a few questions before I order my prints.

- What is the most durable and strong material ShapeWays makes?
- How accurate are the prints from the certain materials? (from question above)

I am printing a shaft for a multipart project and there is a hexagon (pictures below) that fits into the inverse of it. Should I make the dimensions of the hexagon on the shaft much lower than on the inside of the part or am I able to get a accurate print and able to print the exact dimension?

Thanks
Nate

 Topic: Need a Samsung Galaxy S5 phone holder
Need a Samsung Galaxy S5 phone holder [message #139691] Tue, 22 March 2016 23:00 UTC
avatar chad901512  is currently offline chad901512
Messages: 9
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I'm looking for help design a 3d Samsung galaxy s 5 phone holder.
 Topic: [BoardGame] Searching for a designer for a Boardgame set of miniatures
[BoardGame] Searching for a designer for a Boardgame set of miniatures [message #139047] Sat, 12 March 2016 15:35 UTC
avatar marco_montanaro  is currently offline marco_montanaro
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Hi all, i'm Marco!
I'm actually working in as a Boardgame developer of a fighting boardgame between mages.

I'm searching for a 3d Designer that can help me in developing the 3d characters for the game and all the creatures involved.

If you want more info, feel free to contact me ^_^

Attached a picture of the prototype.

Cheers, Marco

 Topic: Minifigs Available or M.U.S.C.L.E aka Keshi
Minifigs Available or M.U.S.C.L.E aka Keshi [message #138843] Thu, 10 March 2016 21:45 UTC
avatar Otorres54  is currently offline Otorres54
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HI everyone I've been working on small collectible minifigs based off of games things that have really never seen the light of day in this format or something I thought that was rare. Definitely going to be working on more. Check out my creation section I am also on Instagram and Twitter my account name on both is otorres54 stop by and take a look.

Thanks all for your time.


Best,
Oscar Torres

http://oscartorres9.wix.com/oscartorres-3d
 Topic: More Problems...
More Problems... [message #138049] Mon, 29 February 2016 18:17 UTC
avatar 3dandthings  is currently offline 3dandthings
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I have posted recently about Shapeways protocals and how issues always seem to arise on my orders. One of my recent orders Shapeways mixed up two of my items. They look similiar, but are different and one costs more than the other. I thought it was accidental and let it go. Perhaps it was just a "one time" deal. Now, I have 4 pieces mixed up. Again, they look similiar. But all 4 pieces have a different cost. Shapeways has asked me if I could "number" my parts. Shapeways has measure for volume, statistics, costs, etc and you are asking me to number my parts??? I mean, really??? If I am missing something here, please inform me, the community, and shoppers.

I am dealing with the customer service rep. But it doesn't resolve this issue. Whats going on Shapeways? Would like to see Shapeways fix their protocals so orders and product development can me more streamlined.

 Topic: 123D Design materials
123D Design materials [message #137995] Mon, 29 February 2016 00:42 UTC
avatar deanva  is currently offline deanva
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Is there anyway to add new materials from the Web to the Autodesk 123D Design library to use on my projects? I know in some other 3D drawing programs like GMax you can download extra materials into thier material libraries.
 Topic: Shoe Last
Shoe Last [message #137893] Sat, 27 February 2016 02:53 UTC
avatar cookeie  is currently offline cookeie
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I was wondering if anyone has ever printed a shoe last through shapeways.

If you don't know what a shoe last is: it is a 3d foot form used in the production if footwear. It must be hard enough to be hammered on, yet soft enough to take nails without cracking, chipping, or breaking. They are currently made of wood, plastic (I believe they are usually hdpe) or aluminum if the shoe is vulcanized. They must also be able to stand up to industrial machinery which can have strong forces applied.

I am looking to print the lasts in some high density plastic. I was wondering if anyone has done this through shapeways, and if they have how did it go. Any help would be much appreciated, I havent been able to find much other than one guy printing them out of a filament called PET+. Let me know if the available plastics would work.

 Topic: Clearance/tolerances in SFP
Clearance/tolerances in SFP [message #137395] Sat, 20 February 2016 05:38 UTC
avatar MadAsU  is currently offline MadAsU
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I have just been trawling through this forum to search for an answer, but couldn't quite find what I was looking for...

I am designing a box with a lid in SF plastic and want to know the gap I should leave between interlocking parts (i.e. where the lid sits 'around' a lip on the box). the best I could find is that 0.2mm would be a good gap which is what I have used, but would rather get it as close to possible as right first time around rather than waste time and money getting prints (I am in Australia so postage alone usually takes 10 days).

Cheers
Dain
Madasu design


Follow MadAsU on:


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 Topic: Best free ZBrush Tutorials
Best free ZBrush Tutorials [message #135797] Fri, 29 January 2016 17:32 UTC
avatar katkinkead  is currently offline katkinkead
Messages: 302
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I work here
Hey everyone,

I'm just gettings started using zbrush (finally) and I was wondering if you anyone had some suggestions on what are the best tutorials to get started with. There are so many out there, I have no idea which ones actually show best practices and have useful content


Shapeways Community Manager // Resident Badass
 Topic: Help with add base to color model
Help with add base to color model [message #134612] Fri, 22 January 2016 05:23 UTC
avatar nezumi15  is currently offline nezumi15
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I created a full body scan Using itseez3d. I exported the .wrl and was able to upload to Shapeways no problem. The problem is I need a base added to the bottom of the model. I tried using meshmixer but the model doesn't show up in color. I read a tutorial to use mesh lab and convert to color vertex and it worked but the color was waayyyyy off. I need help on how to take a model from itseez3d and adding a base to the full body model and then being able to upload to shapeways in color while retaining the quality that the itseez3d app provides
 Topic: Sphere finish ( best 3d design construction for stainless steel)
Sphere finish ( best 3d design construction for stainless steel) [message #133777] Sun, 17 January 2016 23:00 UTC
avatar Disenopt  is currently offline Disenopt
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Hello:

On last December i ordered a small sphere (diameter - 10MM, material stainless steel).
The problem is that one side of this sphere as a deep finish, and all the sphere material doesn´t look homogenous.
My question is:
Do i have to change my sphere construction? Do i have to have a sphere face parallel to the floor?

On attachment i send you a photo that shows this material difference and shows a new possible sphere construction.

Best,

Naulila

Thank you!

 Topic: DIY Leather Stamps
DIY Leather Stamps [message #131584] Thu, 07 January 2016 13:52 UTC
avatar TimWaugh  is currently offline TimWaugh
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I saw an article on Instructables by someone that was printing their own leather stamps and I was wondering which of the materials here would work best for this. I saw that Aluminum as be put out for open use and with the directed laser sintering would these be strong enough to take the impacts from the wood mallet into the cased leather?

On another note is their a plan to offer directed laser sintering of steel?

Tim Waugh
 Topic: Urgent! Help needed!
Urgent! Help needed! [message #130315] Tue, 29 December 2015 22:42 UTC
avatar Nickolaos  is currently offline Nickolaos
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Hi,

I have made this model (Ring Moon)


index.php?t=getfile&id=130332&private=0


but I'm not sure it can pass the details in silver & brass (0,3 to 0,35 mm high & wide).


Can pls someone confirm that?


Thank you in advance!

 Topic: Red wings logo
Red wings logo [message #130223] Mon, 28 December 2015 21:43 UTC
avatar nsands25  is currently offline nsands25
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I am trying to draw the red wings logo on solidworks to send in and have printed out. Is this possible? File is attatched

  • Attachment: image(1).jpeg
    (Size: 58.52KB, Downloaded 40 time(s))

 Topic: Tile Design Issue
Tile Design Issue [message #130217] Mon, 28 December 2015 17:46 UTC
avatar Venustas_Studio  is currently offline Venustas_Studio
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I am in need to print a triangle like tile individually. I was wondering does Shapeways able to print the tip of the triangle? My only concern when I assemble the parts, the tip connection to other tile will have a hole.


Question everything. There is always a better way. Visit my store: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/irfhan
 Topic: Tutorial, Kylo Ren speed modeling using Maya
Tutorial, Kylo Ren speed modeling using Maya [message #129852] Thu, 17 December 2015 16:18 UTC
avatar KhaledAlkayed3D  is currently offline KhaledAlkayed3D
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Kylo Ren modeling tutorial using Autodesk Maya.
I've prepared it for 3D printing using Makeprintable which prepares an Obj or Stl file for 3D printing. It ensured that my first print was successful. I've printed on a flash forge FDM printer and then colored in the mask using a marker.
Check video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4XGDOaVoSk

[Updated on: Fri, 18 December 2015 21:27 UTC]


Khaled Alkayed
 Topic: 3D sculpture of metallic light fixture
3D sculpture of metallic light fixture [message #128854] Thu, 03 December 2015 20:10 UTC
avatar eklundsara  is currently offline eklundsara
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Hi !

I am working with artist Uri Aran and we are looking to produce a 3D sculpture of a wall light fixture. I am fairly new to 3D production but have been recommended that I find a 3D modeler who can copy the item with digital calipers or a micrometer.

We would like to design one sculpture with the light bulb and another without the light bulb. The final prints are not meant to be functional lamps.

Attached are a photos detailing the light fixture photographed in the two designs I'm looking to produce. I would happily like to continue the conversation and send more images to give more details.

We are aiming to produce the 3D sculptures before the end of the year. Please feel free to reach out if this is a project that you might find of interest.

All the very best,

Sara

 Topic: painted sculptris to be printed in colour?
painted sculptris to be printed in colour? [message #128301] Sat, 28 November 2015 23:56 UTC
avatar farolero777  is currently offline farolero777
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i ordered a duck i made with sculptris and paint it afterwards but im not very happy of the result

so i was thinking to paint the duck in sculptris and color 3d print it

but im pretty lost at the format i have to upload, so far i just know how to export an object with sculptris

does anybody have a hint for me so i can make a painted duck in sculptris or blender and how to upload it ready to be colour 3d printed?

[Updated on: Sat, 28 November 2015 23:57 UTC]

 Topic: Need help with design - will there be issues?
Need help with design - will there be issues? [message #125357] Thu, 12 November 2015 10:47 UTC
avatar DoomNails  is currently offline DoomNails
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I have a design I've modelled up, and it consists of a few different objects.
These objects are all touching eachother - what I want to know is will they hold together when printed (stainless steel)?
Or do I have to do actually make them one model?

Also, I wouldn't mind knowing if this model is even viable for printing at all? Because I'm very unsure about how this all will work

Thanks in advance!

Screenshots attached

 Topic: Necklace hanger
Necklace hanger [message #124991] Thu, 05 November 2015 13:33 UTC
avatar ackbahr  is currently offline ackbahr
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Hello!
I'm not sure about a design constraint : I'd like to make a neacklace hanger (much like this http://www.dissenyplus2.net/fotos/4946700.jpg , but smaller of course) and I'm wondering if the hooks stand a chance with the "sand castle rule"?
Thanks for your help!
Jean
 Topic: Newbie Question: Joining Objects That Are Too Long To Print In One Go
Newbie Question: Joining Objects That Are Too Long To Print In One Go [message #124832] Mon, 02 November 2015 03:24 UTC
avatar JosNZ  is currently offline JosNZ
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Hi all.

Total newbie here, who has never designed anything in 3D.
A relative has a 3D printer and he said I could send him a couple of designs to print.

My question is -

The relative says that the platen of his printer is approx 200mm square, but that, because the edges can get a little ragged, it is best to keep the length to 170mm. My question is - if I have a design - in this instance a kind of measure I want to make in the form of a simple rectangle shape of 322mm long, by 1.8mm high, by about 6cm wide - the design will obviously have to be split into 2 or more pieces.

What is the best way to join them up after they are printed? I'm guessing some kind of plugs & holes? And if that is the case, does the diameter of the plug and hole have to be exactly the same? Or is their some kind of leeway, especially if i am wanting to glue? And what is the best way of designing this?

Sorry for the newbie questions, and thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[Updated on: Mon, 02 November 2015 05:52 UTC]

 Topic: How do you make a mold for a Ball Svivel Hinge?
How do you make a mold for a Ball Svivel Hinge? [message #124151] Fri, 16 October 2015 00:00 UTC
avatar KreativeKirk  is currently offline KreativeKirk
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Hey guys I need someone's help. I'm planning on getting an action figure made and I'm gonna be making molds for each piece. I'm then going to be casting them each in liquid resin to make stronger, durable pieces. I'm then going to assemble the figure together but I'm having trouble. Does anyone know how I can make a mold for a ball Swivel hinge? Link provided. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY7pwHtGQTE
 Topic: The quality of Shapeways feedback
The quality of Shapeways feedback [message #123947] Mon, 12 October 2015 18:58 UTC
avatar jebbimettal  is currently offline jebbimettal
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Useless effort, so please delete this thread if you want.

[Updated on: Mon, 12 October 2015 19:08 UTC]

 Topic: How to Make Space Crystals on Earrings/Pendants
How to Make Space Crystals on Earrings/Pendants [message #123180] Tue, 22 September 2015 12:23 UTC
avatar GrahamC1  is currently offline GrahamC1
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Hi I have designed some earrings and pendants on CAD and am soon to upload them to Shapeways to get them 3D printed. I am including crystals in both designs; they feature a Swarovski 1mm pointed back foiled crystal (a link is provided below). Would anyone happen to know what shape I can produce on CAD to ensure that when the pieces are printed that the crystals can slot in with relative ease eg. should I simply include a sphere with a radius of 0.5 etc.

Any help would be welcome. Thanks

Graham


http://www.crystal-beads.co.uk/swarovskielements/1100-pointe d-back-foiled-swarovski/1123-swarovski-pointedback-1100-crys tal-pp2.html#/pack_of-50_pcs)
 Topic: Does the color of the fullcolor platic fade?
Does the color of the fullcolor platic fade? [message #122518] Wed, 09 September 2015 05:39 UTC
avatar IScustom  is currently offline IScustom
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I am very interested in the full color plastic.

Just want to know does its color fade if washed by water or frequently touched by hand?

Cannot find the answer in material description.


......
 Topic: logotype into pendant
logotype into pendant [message #120964] Tue, 11 August 2015 22:10 UTC
avatar l4legina  is currently offline l4legina
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Hi,

we are looking for a technical possibility to materialize our logotype
into a pendant which would be attached to a price tag and later to
be even used as a fashionable item for carrying as a necklace.

In this case we thought to use a 3D printing technology in order to get the
logotype produced.

We would like to have it in a brite color (from our palette) and maybe 7-8 cm (3in). We have fairly limited ideas about material to be used
for this and would rather rely upon some advise from a person specializing in it.

Could you please look into this and share your view (proposal) how
best to proceed.


Look forward to hearing from you.

Thanks and regards

LADA

 Topic: Autodesk Fusion 360, TinkerCAD and Sculptris this Saturday in LES NYC from 12:30pm - 3pm
Autodesk Fusion 360, TinkerCAD and Sculptris this Saturday in LES NYC from 12:30pm - 3pm [message #119361] Thu, 16 July 2015 14:35 UTC
avatar lilys  is currently offline lilys
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Hi! I will be teaching Autodesk Fusion 360, TinkerCAD and Sculptris this Saturday in LES NYC from 12:30pm - 3pm. Cost will be $15. Below is the class description:

Get your bases covered with a hands-on introduction to 3 useful modeling programs for 2.5 hours for $15.

This is the ultimate introduction to 3D creation for 3D print with all at no cost to purchase the 3D programs.

The only prerequisite is to bring in your own laptop.

Learn appropriate 3D programs for what you need to make. Play with TinkerCAD to teach your kids and make basic colorful geometrical forms. Poke with Sculptris to make a gourd, a lump of mashed potatoes. Then get started cadding with Autodesk Fusion 360 to make functional components.

This class is broken down into 3 parts. We will be covering the following programs:

TinkerCAD - A great starter 3D modeling program involving drag and drop colorful geometries. Uses fundamental concepts of 3D CAD (Computer-aided Design).

Sculptris - Digital sculpting software allowing anyone to push and pull in 3D just like working with clay. Made by Pixologic, creator of ZBrush, industry standard for all organic, figurative subjects in the special effects industry.

Autodesk Fusion 360 - Polygonal and solid modeling program that allows precision modeling you can use from electronics casing to patent applications. uses fundamental the workflow of professional programs like Solidworks, Rhino, Maya and 3Ds Max.

To RSVP:
http://www.meetup.com/3D-Printing-New-York/events/223836505/


Best, Lily Please reply back to: lilyxsu@gmail.com
 Topic: Blender - Measuring Addon
Blender - Measuring Addon [message #118846] Wed, 08 July 2015 02:45 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
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An EXCELLENT tool for measuring the dimensions of your models.

Here's the most recent video (most current version):

Measure-It 1.5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiEZxnPHq70

More details on the addon (and the download):

MeasureIt
https://github.com/Antonioya/blender/tree/master/measureit

From the Author Antonioya:

"You can use it for:

Mesh vertex to vertex measure: Length between vertices in the same mesh.

Mesh vertex labeling: Add a label to any mesh vertex. This allows identify easily different areas or objects in the scene.

Object to Object: Distance between object origins, vertex to origin or vertex to vertex.

Object to origin: Distance between object origin to scene origin or vertex to scene origin.

Allows work with different scales."

[Updated on: Wed, 08 July 2015 02:54 UTC]


unkerjay
 Topic: Blender - Matacaps
Blender - Matacaps [message #118672] Mon, 06 July 2015 02:10 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
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There are some there by default in Blender

index.php?t=getfile&id=106394&private=0

(There's two settings in the dropdown. Not sure
GLSL is required. Matcaps work under either setting.)

It's also possible to do the same thing
using Matcaps either you or others have
created.

The attached picture is an example of the
use of one of these images created using
methods and matcaps from this (and other
sites - try searching for "Blender Matcaps"
(without the quotes):

Here's more info

ZBrush matcap in Blender
http://blenderartists.org/forum/showthread.php?174790-ZBrush -matcap-in-Blender

[Updated on: Mon, 06 July 2015 02:27 UTC]


unkerjay
 Topic: Any good software out there that does wall thickening?
Any good software out there that does wall thickening? [message #116776] Fri, 05 June 2015 21:10 UTC
avatar MrNibbles  is currently offline MrNibbles
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First of all I'm thinking free software that isn't terribly difficult to use. Secondly I'm thinking something that works like the Shapeways 3D tools wall thickness fixing tool. But unlike the Shapeways tool I'd like to set the minimum wall thickness with a numeric input.

 Topic: Artcam export file
Artcam export file [message #116194] Tue, 26 May 2015 11:47 UTC
avatar lwilliams198995  is currently offline lwilliams198995
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Hi all!!!

Im very new to this so bare with me.
I so desperately want to create 3d relief colour photos.
Artcam seems to be the best for what i am looking for but is it possible to either export or convert to a 3d printable file?

Would i have to export to 3 different files (mapping, texture etc.) And upload as a zip file.

Please refrain from listing other cad software.... ive already explored them all and artcam seems to be the quickest to learn and perfect for the results i want.

Please help!!!


Thank you so much in advance. XxX

 Topic: Alternatives to classic Marching Cubes
Alternatives to classic Marching Cubes [message #113805] Tue, 14 April 2015 16:36 UTC
avatar shawn_halayka  is currently offline shawn_halayka
Messages: 97
Registered: April 2015
Go to my shop
Member
What isosurface algorithm do you use? I'm using classic Marching Cubes, but I'd like to try any other algorithm that you may suggest.

Thanks.
 Topic: 3D Print Nano Drone that Takes Selfies and Combines Virtual Reality
3D Print Nano Drone that Takes Selfies and Combines Virtual Reality [message #112794] Wed, 25 March 2015 09:13 UTC
avatar KathyElecfreaks  is currently offline KathyElecfreaks
Messages: 0
Registered: June 2014
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi everybody, I'd like to share something about the 3D software design of the ELF VRdrone, which you can get an overview by clicking here.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/elf-3d-model-.jpg

It's based on FDM printers, generally using ABS or PLA as filaments.

Modular design: split complex parts into a few simple parts, assemble them after printing.

If we noticed, we'll find that by splitting the motor housing into 2 parts, the structure of "large upper part, small lower part" we mentioned at the beginning will not appear, and the success rate is greatly enhanced. Thus, for more complex designs, and those "large upper part, small lower part" unavoidable, consider about dismantling the model into several parts.

Take the ELF WIFICAM housing as an example, before we secure it to the drone, we part it into 2 parts: the shell and the hook. With the WIFICAM firstly mounted into the shell, we can then fix it on the drone using the hook.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-modular-design.jpg

As you can see from the above design, every part can be guaranteed without any support or post-processing. We apply the same trick on the ELF battery case design.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-modular-design.jpg

Last comes the ELF overall body. The "dismantling rule" also works. In a word, for a larger overall framework, you need to work extremely intensively on every little bit to avoid collapse and pay extra efforts on the support as well as post-processing only to get a fairly humble print. The utilization of "modular design" is really important.

After printing all the parts, people will probably think about how to assemble them into an integrated robot. In the following parts, we are going to talk about some points important to pay attention.

Important points of modular design

Traditional assembly design requires up to 0.1 mm difference in size between the parts. However, due to the nozzle head diameter of FDM, the final prints have some discrepancy compared to the 3D models. Take the nozzle of 0.4 mm diameter as an instance, to print a 10x10x10 (mm), but it will result in 10×10.4×10.4 (mm) cube. Why is that?



The above picture shows that it is because the nozzle head diameter is 0.4 mm, the print length and width are both 10.4 mm, while the height remains 10 mm. If it is a single object, such errors can be ignored; but if it is several parts which will be assembled into something new, then still using the "0.1 mm difference" like we normally do will be a problem. Taking into account the mutual engagement of the two parts will eventually be more than 0.4 mm error as the design size, we come to the conclusion that the two parts must have 0.9 mm difference in size. If you need to fit them tight, narrow that difference to 0.8 mm.

Design the most efficient print how-tos.

Try to leave out support, which consumes much time outside of the useful print part and requires removal.

Use hollowed design if necessary since this saves time and filaments.

Choose the proper filaments.

FMD mainly uses two filaments: ABS and PLA, each with its own characteristics. We need to choose the proper type under different circumstances.

PLA with lower melting point, has better adhesive properties, emits no odor during the printing process-which is the biggest advantage.

ABS is better known for its low density, light weight, good toughness and certain flexibility.

If you need to print a craft, having nothing strict requirement on the weight and the toughness, then PLA is the best choice. But if you want the model lighter with some hooks or buckles, and toughness, ABS must be better. The ELF is printed by using ABS.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-using-ABS-3D-print.jpg

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-model-1.jpg

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-model-3.jpg

All the 3D print models mentioned above can be found on MakerbotThingiverse. If you want a 3D print nano drone, welcome to check out on our Indiegogo campaign page.
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