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Forum: 3D Design
 Topic: Alternatives to classic Marching Cubes
Alternatives to classic Marching Cubes [message #113805] Tue, 14 April 2015 16:36 UTC
avatar shawn_halayka  is currently offline shawn_halayka
Messages: 5
Registered: April 2015
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What isosurface algorithm do you use? I'm using classic Marching Cubes, but I'd like to try any other algorithm that you may suggest.

Thanks.
 Topic: Repair tools and 3D Printing
Repair tools and 3D Printing [message #113654] Sat, 11 April 2015 07:12 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
Messages: 37
Registered: January 2015
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The Experience is not mine and doesn't involve Shapeways.

It is from a user who purchased their own 3D printer.

The tools are those, some of which are often mentioned here,
like, Meshlab. Others which aren't which might be useful to know
of and to use.

The link to the Repair tools reference:

http://meshrepair.org/

The link to the 3D printing thoughts of one user new to the
experience:

The Basics of 3D Printing in 2015 - from someone with 16 WHOLE HOURS' experience
http://www.hanselman.com/blog/TheBasicsOf3DPrintingIn2015Fro mSomeoneWith16WHOLEHOURSExperience.aspx

Hopefully, they will be of some help, useful to know.
 Topic: 3D Print Nano Drone that Takes Selfies and Combines Virtual Reality
3D Print Nano Drone that Takes Selfies and Combines Virtual Reality [message #112794] Wed, 25 March 2015 09:13 UTC
avatar KathyElecfreaks  is currently offline KathyElecfreaks
Messages: 3
Registered: June 2014
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Hi everybody, I'd like to share something about the 3D software design of the ELF VRdrone, which you can get an overview by clicking here.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/elf-3d-model-.jpg

It's based on FDM printers, generally using ABS or PLA as filaments.

Modular design: split complex parts into a few simple parts, assemble them after printing.

If we noticed, we'll find that by splitting the motor housing into 2 parts, the structure of "large upper part, small lower part" we mentioned at the beginning will not appear, and the success rate is greatly enhanced. Thus, for more complex designs, and those "large upper part, small lower part" unavoidable, consider about dismantling the model into several parts.

Take the ELF WIFICAM housing as an example, before we secure it to the drone, we part it into 2 parts: the shell and the hook. With the WIFICAM firstly mounted into the shell, we can then fix it on the drone using the hook.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-modular-design.jpg

As you can see from the above design, every part can be guaranteed without any support or post-processing. We apply the same trick on the ELF battery case design.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-modular-design.jpg

Last comes the ELF overall body. The "dismantling rule" also works. In a word, for a larger overall framework, you need to work extremely intensively on every little bit to avoid collapse and pay extra efforts on the support as well as post-processing only to get a fairly humble print. The utilization of "modular design" is really important.

After printing all the parts, people will probably think about how to assemble them into an integrated robot. In the following parts, we are going to talk about some points important to pay attention.

Important points of modular design

Traditional assembly design requires up to 0.1 mm difference in size between the parts. However, due to the nozzle head diameter of FDM, the final prints have some discrepancy compared to the 3D models. Take the nozzle of 0.4 mm diameter as an instance, to print a 10x10x10 (mm), but it will result in 10×10.4×10.4 (mm) cube. Why is that?



The above picture shows that it is because the nozzle head diameter is 0.4 mm, the print length and width are both 10.4 mm, while the height remains 10 mm. If it is a single object, such errors can be ignored; but if it is several parts which will be assembled into something new, then still using the "0.1 mm difference" like we normally do will be a problem. Taking into account the mutual engagement of the two parts will eventually be more than 0.4 mm error as the design size, we come to the conclusion that the two parts must have 0.9 mm difference in size. If you need to fit them tight, narrow that difference to 0.8 mm.

Design the most efficient print how-tos.

Try to leave out support, which consumes much time outside of the useful print part and requires removal.

Use hollowed design if necessary since this saves time and filaments.

Choose the proper filaments.

FMD mainly uses two filaments: ABS and PLA, each with its own characteristics. We need to choose the proper type under different circumstances.

PLA with lower melting point, has better adhesive properties, emits no odor during the printing process-which is the biggest advantage.

ABS is better known for its low density, light weight, good toughness and certain flexibility.

If you need to print a craft, having nothing strict requirement on the weight and the toughness, then PLA is the best choice. But if you want the model lighter with some hooks or buckles, and toughness, ABS must be better. The ELF is printed by using ABS.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-using-ABS-3D-print.jpg

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-model-1.jpg

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-model-3.jpg

All the 3D print models mentioned above can be found on MakerbotThingiverse. If you want a 3D print nano drone, welcome to check out on our Indiegogo campaign page.
 Topic: 3D Print Files Design Tips for FDM Printers 1
3D Print Files Design Tips for FDM Printers 1 [message #112793] Wed, 25 March 2015 09:00 UTC
avatar KathyElecfreaks  is currently offline KathyElecfreaks
Messages: 3
Registered: June 2014
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The past two years has seen a lot of low-cost desktop 3D printers, which are mostly based on FDM, such as the most well-known Makerbot, Ultimaker, Reprap and more others. The requirements on 3D print files may differ a lot depending on the type and the processing method of the 3D printer. In this article we'll focus on how to design the 3D software specifically for FDM machines, in addition to some precautions.
1. The 3D design models must be the same size up and down, or large lower part and small upper part structure.

As we all know about the principle of 3D printing – or "additive manufacturing, AM, additive processes are used, in which successive layers of material are laid down under computer control." (quoted from wikipedia) , so if the lower part is smaller than the upper, the top will easily collapse down due to a lack of support. Thus, if this occurs, it will impact the printing results, or eventually leads to failure. Let's look at an example.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-file-structure.jpg

It's the former ELF motor mount. The red part in the circle is exactly the above mentioned flawed structure which is easy to collapse. When you finish printing such a thing, you'll find that the surface is unexpectedly rough. Since the base is firmly glued to the hotbed, with the layers' weight laid on it, it's very easy to fall down and break. Though the average success rate remains 70% or less.

2. If the model has to be "large upper par and small lower part", you need to remember the "45-degree" rule or try to adopt arc structure.
http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-file-improvement.jpg

Change the structure where the curves drop sharply as the above image shows, into a 45-degree angle. This will help improve the print quality. Likewise, using the arc structure will help avoid collapse as much as possible.
3. Try to design a flat base. It is crucial because it eliminates the trouble of the later removal of the support, saving filaments.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-file-arc-structure.jpg
http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-file-arc-structure-base.jpg

The bottom surface of the arc cannot be printed directly, except that you increase the base and support. After printing, you have to spend much energy to wipe off the base to only find that the finished very rough in shape.



This is the finished print after initial grinding, hard to accept though. The image below shows the 3D print file for the ELF VRdrone battery case. (Access on MakerbotThingivese)

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-battery-case-3D-file.jpg

It is the print without any post processing.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-print-battery-case.jpg
 Topic: How to export from second life and open sim to shapeways
How to export from second life and open sim to shapeways [message #112313] Mon, 16 March 2015 23:19 UTC
avatar DrWhoJohnSmith  is currently offline DrWhoJohnSmith
Messages: 8
Registered: January 2014
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every wanted to have an object you made in second life or open sim in real life now you can with these instructions don't be afraid to use the pause button. 3d world prints have less restrictions of textures as most 3d softwares. I have use it to make things and put it on shapeways.com a few times before here is how to do it.
https://youtu.be/0-MyWe2RG6Y https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_2289922_3738300_1426497157.jpghttps://images4.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_2290258_3740249_1426499021.jpg
pictures are a few examples of exported work

[Updated on: Mon, 16 March 2015 23:27 UTC]


Don't Blink
 Topic: need help with photoshop color model
need help with photoshop color model [message #111863] Mon, 09 March 2015 07:33 UTC
avatar BloomingVineDesign  is currently offline BloomingVineDesign
Messages: 3
Registered: March 2015
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I am trying to make a sandstone pendant. 2.5 x 2.5 about inches. I am using photoshop and in photoshop, weather O extrude or add a bubble preset to the model, the image is scaled and stretched to fit completely. When I upload to shapeways I get a gray outline and the image is off, as if the actual image was smaller. any help? Thanks so much. I am new to shapeways and 3d.

here is the product for you to see as uploaded. https://www.shapeways.com/product/USAK4NEPU/bluegreencelticc rosspendant-wrl?key=0246c31568c32c49ef83a1ca03225969


http://bloomingvinedesign.com one site to sell to all.. one site to find them.. one site to spend hours on and with the colors blind them.
 Topic: Tinkercad Shortcuts
Tinkercad Shortcuts [message #111583] Thu, 05 March 2015 01:37 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
Messages: 37
Registered: January 2015
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Just stumbled across this:

http://blog.tinkercad.com/keyboard-shortcuts/

VERY useful if you're learning Tinkercad or wouldn't mind
a useful reference.
 Topic: Inkscape - Openscad / Inkscape - Tinkercad
Inkscape - Openscad / Inkscape - Tinkercad [message #111581] Thu, 05 March 2015 00:41 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
Messages: 37
Registered: January 2015
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If you didn't already know, Tinkercad imports SVG files from Inkscape.

Also, there's a converter for Inkscape to Openscad (both programs - FREE). And from
Openscad, you can edit (if you like), compile the saved file and export it to STL format.

The Openscad exporter is here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25036

Instructions are here:

Linux:
http://jfayel.net/post/58351618292/inkscape-gets-openscad-co nverter

Windows:
http://blogs.msdn.com/b/rihamselim/archive/2013/06/08/how-to -convert-pretty-much-any-image-to-a-3d-object.aspx

[Updated on: Thu, 05 March 2015 00:43 UTC]

 Topic: Need A Designer For Pandora beads
Need A Designer For Pandora beads [message #111411] Mon, 02 March 2015 21:53 UTC
avatar jrobichaud  is currently offline jrobichaud
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2015
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I needs some 3D models done of Pandora beads using client logos.
 Topic: Adding textures/finishes to a 3D model
Adding textures/finishes to a 3D model [message #111146] Wed, 25 February 2015 22:08 UTC
avatar MadAsU  is currently offline MadAsU
Messages: 51
Registered: September 2014
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I am looking to add texture to some models - primarily wall finishes to HO scale models. The kind of thing I am looking for are brick/stone/wood walls and corrugated iron roofs.

The model in question is:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/FKN587EE4/ho-scale-outhous e-1-87

I appreciate that any texture won't work with wsf, but perhaps I could get them to work with detailed plastics...

Any ideas other than manually creating the textures? I am hoping there is something I can do to select a surface and apply the texture.

I am using 123D Design from Autodesk.

Thanks
Dain


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 Topic: matte black steel durability?
matte black steel durability? [message #110196] Tue, 10 February 2015 18:12 UTC
avatar Liquid_Noir  is currently offline Liquid_Noir
Messages: 4
Registered: February 2014
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Hi there I'm wondering if anyone has much experience with matte black steel jewelry? I have printed one piece in this material but intending to sell it and have a potential customer asking if the black will wear off. Anyone have more insight into the creation process for this material, or know how it wears long term for jewelry? Thanks for your help, any info would be greatly appreciated.


Liquid Noir
 Topic: Help - 'out of memory' error code when using Netfabb
Help - 'out of memory' error code when using Netfabb [message #109002] Tue, 27 January 2015 05:14 UTC
avatar gibbo1984  is currently offline gibbo1984
Messages: 16
Registered: September 2014
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Hi I keep getting an 'out of memory' error code when using Netfabb? does anyone know why this is happening and how I can avoid it? thanks
 Topic: Minimum ring band thickness for polished brass/bronze
Minimum ring band thickness for polished brass/bronze [message #108372] Mon, 19 January 2015 12:40 UTC
avatar okacat  is currently offline okacat
Messages: 1
Registered: August 2010
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Hello!

I'm in the process of designing a ring, that I'm either going to order in polished brass, preferably. Bronze is also an option if it turns out it's stronger. My question is, what would the minimum thickness of the band need to be? Currently mine is at 1.1mm, I could go up to 1.25mm if needed. The profile of the band is a square, not a circle (cross section). Would brass be strong enough for a ring like that?
 Topic: [London] Show your 3D design skills at the 2nd Imakrthon on February 7
[London] Show your 3D design skills at the 2nd Imakrthon on February 7 [message #107738] Mon, 12 January 2015 17:36 UTC
avatar ze_butcher  is currently offline ze_butcher
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2015
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iMakr and MyMiniFactory present the second iMakrthon, the hackathon dedicated to 3D printing. This next edition will be held on 7th February and will focus on 3D sculpture.

The focus will be to produce a 3D printable, 3D sculpted piece of concept art. Participants will compete against each other in a 24 hour competition held at the iMakr Store, 79 Clerkenwell Road, London.
This is a call to all 3D designers who want to test their skills and see what they can produce in a highly competitive enviroment.
The design brief will be announced on the day of the competition.
The winner will recieve a one of a kind 30cm 3D print of their design, printed by the DeltaWASP 3D printer. Their design will then be professionally finished by the post processing team at MyMiniFactory. All entrants will recieve a 10cm high 3D print of their design.

If you are interested in participating please register here and send an example of your 3D modeling work that best showcases your abilities to zac@imakr.com in order to be considered as an entrant.
 Topic: Colored Sandstone Printing - Not All Colors Printing Properly
Colored Sandstone Printing - Not All Colors Printing Properly [message #104544] Mon, 08 December 2014 21:13 UTC
avatar Sieve70  is currently offline Sieve70
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2014
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I've uploaded a .dae of my sculpture, and I see a full color preview. I then ordered a printing in color sandstone.

My sculpture contains the following colors: Red, Yellow, Light Blue, and Grey.

All areas printed as shown in the full color preview except the Red area. It basically printed as a "Dark Grey".

I submitted a support request a week again, and still haven't heard back - I see that experts are responding here rather quickly, so I'm coming to you all for help.

FYI - sculpture produced in Blender.

Thanks in advance!

[Updated on: Mon, 08 December 2014 21:16 UTC]

 Topic: Choosing where metal casting "channels" can go.
Choosing where metal casting "channels" can go. [message #104405] Fri, 05 December 2014 18:58 UTC
avatar dkrentz  is currently offline dkrentz
Messages: 7
Registered: September 2010
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I have only printed one model in bronze ( Kosmoceratops, David Krentz Dinosaurs) and I was a little distraught at where the caster chose to place the pour channel -plug- or whatever you want to call it. It was put right in the middle of the model and when polished off it left a giant shiny bald spot which obliterated all the details. I've done lots of bronze casting before, so I understand the reasons for choosing a large area like that, but I would like to at least suggest another spot on the model where it wouldn't be so visible! Is there a wAy to communicate that? Could I just model a channel myself? Would it be ignored?
 Topic: Designing an unusual 3D print
Designing an unusual 3D print [message #104160] Tue, 02 December 2014 16:07 UTC
avatar Hermetres  is currently offline Hermetres
Messages: 4
Registered: July 2014
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Dear all, I'm a university student in charge of developing a biochemical device (reactor) for the depuration of leather factory wastewaters, this is an european project leaded by Ambiental Engineering University of Florence. Part of this device should be colonized with fungi in order to purify water, and they (the fungi) need a biodegradable material with a certain porosity to grow. I am currently developing a tester sample and I'm going to 3D print it in PLA. The tester should be as similar as it can be to a small cube of "low density polyurethane foam" ( http://www.modulor.de/out/pictures/generated/product/1/800_6 00_85/241590_1_pu-filterschaum-schwarz.jpg).
I was thinking about using some algorythm like voronoi, but I'm not sure it is the best option.
What do you think? How would you make the 3D model?

Ps: I'm quite used to nurbs modeling, but not so much in poly. I guess the latter method is more suitable, am I wrong?
 Topic: Applying fix thin walls doesnt work
Applying fix thin walls doesnt work [message #104065] Mon, 01 December 2014 14:12 UTC
avatar Rotbaeckchen  is currently offline Rotbaeckchen
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2014
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Hey everyone,

after uploading my model I saw that my walls are too thin. I fixed this by pressing on the button, I can see the fixed model, with a new price. But when I press on the save changes button, my model appears with the old price and is indicated with thinn walls.

Could you please tell me what is wrong with my model?

Thanks for your help!

Cheers,

Anastasia

  • Attachment: S-fixed.x3d
    (Size: 5.54MB, Downloaded 19 time(s))

 Topic: Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing
Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing [message #103864] Thu, 27 November 2014 15:02 UTC
avatar MMFAcademy  is currently offline MMFAcademy
Messages: 3
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Want to become an Expert in 3D printing and 3D design?

MyMiniFactory is offering you the chance to learn from industry leading professionals in the first MyMiniFactory Academy course starting end of January 2015.

For more information follow the link : http://myminifactory.com/pages/myminifactory-academy

or email academy@myminifactory.com.

-----
http://www.myminifactory.com/
http://www.facebook.com/myminiF
http://twitter.com/myminifactory

[Updated on: Fri, 28 November 2014 11:14 UTC]

 Topic: Cleaning WRL
Cleaning WRL [message #103366] Fri, 21 November 2014 12:22 UTC
avatar 3DSwim  is currently offline 3DSwim
Messages: 13
Registered: November 2013
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Hi I have a group of objects with textures that I need to e,port as a wrl. However I cant send a wrl to netfabb. Is there a way to clean the wrl without losing the textures?
 Topic: fit pieces inside others
fit pieces inside others [message #102233] Mon, 03 November 2014 11:50 UTC
avatar carlosc  is currently offline carlosc
Messages: 1
Registered: September 2014
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Hi,

I have allready ordered two pieces trhough shapeways and I don't want to mess up again. I need to fit the black piece inside the 3d printed white piece. I need to get as close as possible, so I would like to know wich is the tollerance of the 3d printing with the white, strong and flexible material. So how much space would you let bewttwen the 3d printing piece and my other piece that I already have?

Thankyou very much!


Carlos.

 Topic: Professional Instruction Available
Professional Instruction Available [message #100927] Thu, 09 October 2014 21:17 UTC
avatar lymanbishop  is currently offline lymanbishop
Messages: 59
Registered: August 2011
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I am a mechanical engineer with over 15 years experience in new product design and development. I am an expert with 3D CAD design (Solidworks), 3D printing and manufacturing. I can assist with questions regarding the specifics of design or any issue you may be having at any stage of the process.

I can also log you into my system remotely allowing you to view my screen as I work in order to better guide you and help you understand how to solve any problems you may be facing.

Feel free to reach out with any questions whatsoever.

Thanks,

Lyman

Lyman Bishop
Mechanical Engineer
lymanbishop@star-labs.com
406-407-6995

index.php?t=getfile&id=73826&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=73827&private=0

[Updated on: Thu, 09 October 2014 21:18 UTC]


Lyman Bishop
lymanbishop@star-labs.com
www.star-labs.com
406-407-6995
 Topic: Custom ring app not loading
Custom ring app not loading [message #99020] Sun, 21 September 2014 22:53 UTC
avatar BlueFlame  is currently offline BlueFlame
Messages: 4
Registered: September 2014
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Hello everyone,

I'm new to Shapeways and 3D printing and very excited!

After signing up a week days ago, I created my first ring using the custom ring app. Everything worked fine.
For the past few days I've been wanting to create another design but the default ring doesn't load, ending with the message:

Quote:

"Oops! Something went wrong with the ring creator 3D preview. Please try again."


I've tried in different browser (chrome, firefox, IE), on other computer, on windows 8 and linux (ubuntu). Nothing does it!

A few random times, the loading would stop but nothing would be on the screen and the only way to see the ring is to do a 3D printing check, if the ring has errors, it some how finds the ring and zooms in on it from very far away.

Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
Anyone have solutions?

Thank you!
 Topic: What material I should use?
What material I should use? [message #97684] Wed, 03 September 2014 11:58 UTC
avatar Heallix  is currently offline Heallix
Messages: 1
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I'm making weaponry for a specific line of artist which are BJD hobbiests.

Now i've made this with high detail.

Dimensions should be 230 mm height, 43 mm width, 12 mm depth.

I want to keep the detail high. But the price low. And the material should be paintable. Any tips?

 Topic: Friction fit pieces in FD and FUD
Friction fit pieces in FD and FUD [message #97225] Wed, 27 August 2014 22:57 UTC
avatar Brandroid  is currently offline Brandroid
Messages: 6
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I'm trying to determine how much clearance to leave between parts intended for friction or interference fit in Frosted Detail and Frosted Ultra Detail. I see some information here in the forums, but some of it is conflicting and rarely mentioned are the size of the parts to be fitted together.

My intended design is a post approximately 2 mm in diameter fitting into a hole. The parts will be printed separately, so fusing is not an issue. Think of the connection pegs on injection-molded model kits (or better yet Snap-Tite kits). The fit should be snug enough to hold by itself but I can also apply glue if needed.

I've seen info here suggesting clearances of 0.1 mm all the way up to 0.4 mm. Those values seem a bit large to me considering the printing tolerances in FD and FUD. I'd love to hear from others who have printed pieces like this with success.
 Topic: Belt Buckle Template / Measurements?
Belt Buckle Template / Measurements? [message #96979] Mon, 25 August 2014 01:31 UTC
avatar PeregrineStudios  is currently offline PeregrineStudios
Messages: 346
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Hi all,

I'm looking into starting to design some belt buckles for 3D printing, and would be interested in seeing if there are any templates with the correct measurements of the 'pin' and 'slot' on the back, or at the very least some measurements I could grab (I tried Googling but just wound up with a bunch of pages about measuring your belt size). I could resort to good old-fashioned trial and error, but I'd rather cut that down as much as possible.

Thanks in advance!
 Topic: Need Help with textures for 3D Printing
Need Help with textures for 3D Printing [message #96736] Fri, 22 August 2014 02:33 UTC
avatar lines  is currently offline lines
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I've been trying to print out a 3D full color model, but I have now just one issue with it. I'm able to make the model itself a .x3d file and put it into a zip like the guidelines suggest, but I'm unable to change the texture of it to a png gif or jpg because file is always looking for a .tga image. Does anyone know how to fix this? If needed I can link the files i have right now
 Topic: Does 0.8 mm thickness hold my Samsung Note 2?
Does 0.8 mm thickness hold my Samsung Note 2? [message #95854] Mon, 11 August 2014 11:46 UTC
avatar MayCrown  is currently offline MayCrown
Messages: 125
Registered: January 2014
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index.php?t=getfile&id=67882&private=0I have quickly modeled this Samnsung Note 2 car mount holder for myself. Not a fancy design, just for the need.

My question is: Is 0.8 mm thickness enough to hold it properly? Or can it break? Whay would you suggest?

  • Attachment: 1.png
    (Size: 265.56KB, Downloaded 71 time(s))


If chance will have me King, why, chance may crown me without my stir.
 Topic: Someone got some clean medium plugs template ?
Someone got some clean medium plugs template ? [message #93534] Mon, 07 July 2014 11:41 UTC
avatar numarul7  is currently offline numarul7
Messages: 1008
Registered: January 2013
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Knowledge Expert
I don`t know anyone that has this type of earrings I only have some design ideas. So if someone got some measures so I can make a base so I attach my sculpted design to it will be very helpful.

I have searched in some local shops they are not so popular in my country!

My guess it is they are 5 mm diameter / 11 mm long ? Or like flared to 6 mm / mid 5 mm / long 11 mm ?

Thx.


numarul7 jewelry and design
 Topic: 3D Modeling Help and Tips
3D Modeling Help and Tips [message #93105] Tue, 01 July 2014 01:34 UTC
avatar BKO1999  is currently offline BKO1999
Messages: 1
Registered: April 2013
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Hello everyone, I am a basic 3D Modeler who is just getting used to Cinema 4D and would like to learn modeling and use those lessons and strategies to then model and print some Scratch-Built Articulated Figures for Transformers Stop Motion's and would simply like to get some beginners advice and maybe some tactics or even links to tutorials on modeling. Such Help will be greatly appreciated
 Topic: Is this Cufflinks size ok ?
Is this Cufflinks size ok ? [message #88646] Mon, 28 April 2014 01:50 UTC
avatar numarul7  is currently offline numarul7
Messages: 1008
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I don`t have any shirt with cufflinks holes ... had one but looks it is vanished! o.O

I have a ring with same design but I have to redesign it , ring band to flimsy

index.php?t=getfile&id=58162&private=0

  • Attachment: DSC_0022.JPG
    (Size: 1.52MB, Downloaded 86 time(s))


numarul7 jewelry and design
 Topic: my first 3d design, a school bus, how well will it print?
my first 3d design, a school bus, how well will it print? [message #88457] Fri, 25 April 2014 02:09 UTC
avatar Themikepeng  is currently offline Themikepeng
Messages: 38
Registered: February 2013
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Member
this is the first time uploading my own model to shapeways and its my first time doing 3d modeling on anything, the model passes the wall thickness check for white and flexible so i want to print it with that material, can someone please tell me if it will print well? i want things to be as strong and unflexible as possible, but i know there are some relativly thin parts, can someone help me check my model? i have attached the dae file and the sketchup file
listing:
https://www.shapeways.com/model/1883608/blue-bird-mini-bird- school-bus-body.html?li=search-results&materialId=91

 Topic: Clearance between buckle pieces?
Clearance between buckle pieces? [message #87973] Wed, 16 April 2014 18:14 UTC
avatar dennik  is currently offline dennik
Messages: 2
Registered: June 2012
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Junior Member
I am making a very simple buckle mechanism to hold two pieces interlocked with each other, after you push and snap them together.
Those two pieces are printed apart so there is no fear of bonding during printing.

These are very small pieces, a couple of mm wide.
My question is what is the clearance that I should allow between the male and female parts of the buckle, so that one can squeeze through the other parts opening, and stay in place.

I would hate to keep printing this with different widths. I was hopping someone has done it before and knows some clearance numbers.

Any suggestion is appreciated.

Thanks.

  • Attachment: buckle.jpg
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 Topic: Material for lamp
Material for lamp [message #84698] Mon, 10 February 2014 22:10 UTC
avatar Shlomo_Bachar  is currently offline Shlomo_Bachar
Messages: 1
Registered: February 2014
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Junior Member
Hi all,
Which material is best suitable for a night lamp design (transparent enough and heat resistant)?
Is there a material that can be in color?
Thanks,

SB
 Topic: question about hollowing model
question about hollowing model [message #84445] Thu, 06 February 2014 13:44 UTC
avatar Keymaker  is currently offline Keymaker
Messages: 181
Registered: February 2013
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Senior Member
Shapeways Crew
Hi

I have model in shape of hourglass. 2 bigger areas with smaller "tube" that connects it (just to as example to explain myself).

I know that if i want it hollow i need at least two hole on each end. For now i have one 4mm hole on one side and 3mm hole in other.
My question is if, in middle, i can have small tube connecting those 2 bigger area that is under 2mm?


Now that tube is 3x1,7mm. (inside)

Thank you,
Marián


The only thing that limits us is our imagination.
 Topic: Modeling a Webber Side Draft manifold for SBC 1/16 scale model engine
Modeling a Webber Side Draft manifold for SBC 1/16 scale model engine [message #83999] Tue, 28 January 2014 20:39 UTC
avatar L3art  is currently offline L3art
Messages: 4
Registered: January 2014
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Junior Member
I'm considering an attempt to create a 3D Printable model of a Webber Side Draft manifold for SBC 1/16 scale...My thought are to photograph the Shapeways down draft version in proper scale...then go online to find an actual real manifold Webber cross ram tube manifold for SBC and in Photoshop size the upper tube formation to fit on the Shapeways manifold design...I should be able to copy the carb base flange pattern for down draft and use it for side draft application because I think the bolt hole patterns align though the two carbs are not identical in layout shape or spacing,,, but think the bolt hole pattern was retained.
Since carbs will be mounted the tubes don't require a very thin wall (strength improvement) and by using a to scale part photo adding the tube formation should maintain the scale sizing close enough to pass design of a real life size manifold. All that said here is what could be another problem... I may not be able to find images with proper perspective layout to show various views i.e. top, bottom, front, and back views. To the community how will this affect attempts to make a functional model and what is preferred in the real world for such models to make 3D printed parts? L3
 Topic: Help making this printable
Help making this printable [message #83723] Thu, 23 January 2014 19:20 UTC
avatar zbarta  is currently offline zbarta
Messages: 2
Registered: May 2013
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Junior Member
I have a file that I was looking at purchasing from another designer, but I am not sure how to get it print ready or to scale. I'd like it to be as accurately detailed and scaled to 1/64 as possible. Any help is appreciated. Below is a link to the file. Thank you.
http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/heavy-suv/ford-f450-su per-duty-2013
 Topic: Special design and packing with unique ID on our 3d filament
Special design and packing with unique ID on our 3d filament [message #83272] Thu, 16 January 2014 11:08 UTC
avatar ChinaBestTech  is currently offline ChinaBestTech
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2013
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Junior Member
No Message Body

[Updated on: Thu, 16 January 2014 13:54 UTC] by Moderator

 Topic: Asking experienced users: Ball-joint, clearance, and pegs.
Asking experienced users: Ball-joint, clearance, and pegs. [message #83248] Wed, 15 January 2014 21:29 UTC
avatar Angel_Rapsodi  is currently offline Angel_Rapsodi
Messages: 3
Registered: March 2013
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Junior Member
Hello all, first post on SW btw :)

The following might seem a bit long, but it's just to try and explain properly. I speak French btw, so my English might not be perfect.

First: Yes, I already searched the forum ;) (and still am). I'm making a post about it because I couldn't find a definite answer so far.
For reference: I've never ordered anything on SW yet, as I own a small 1rst gen Makerbot Replicator, but I have come to a point where "layer printing" and "gravity" won't cut it anymore. I need powder-type printing at this point. Also, i use Blender, although that shouldn't matter for this post.

The project is an heavily articulated human figure, and most of my problems could be sum-up in one word: clearance. . .but there are different types of clearances.

So that you know what I'm talking about, the fig will be in 1:6 scale, and I'm looking for near life-like poseability, (kinda like an s.f.b.t-3 doll, if you know what that is). For now, I've already got quite a few ball-joint, and will probably be needing a few pegs as well (not sure about that word, a tube that you push inside another, tight enough to hold by itself, but not too tight so that you can take it out again and switch it with another)

Here are the questions I'd like to ear you guys opinion on:

1) Material: I was thinking of going with WSF, but do you think it would be okay for some of my smaller ball-joint (4mm diameter), or would one of the "detail" materials be better (are they even flexible?)?

2) Ball-joint: I was planing on using mainly (a lot of) ball-joint, but I have a serious problem: most of them will be a 6mm ball with a 2mm peg (tube coming out of the ball for linking), however I need a few in 4 mm diameter: would a 4mm ball joint be viable? or even a 6mm one? or even 2mm pegs?

3) Ball Clearance and sockets: what clearance would I need between the ball and the socket for a tight fit that you can move and pose, but that will retain the pose? I've started with 0.0mm clearance, and sockets with an X shape cut out in the middle for fitting and inter-changing parts.
Also on that subject: the sockets are 2mm thick (so for a 6mm ball, the outside diameter of the socket would be 10mm). could I reduce the sockets thickness to 1mm or would that make them too fragile ? I need them strong since I'm planning on interchangeable parts.
Also right now I have "X" sockets which gives me about 60degrees rotation in all axis, but latter on I will have sockets with only "sides holding" for bigger rotation in 2 out of 3 axis. anything I should know about those?

4) Clearance for pegs, hinges, boxes, etc: what would you say the clearance for an hinge would be for tight fitting (moves but stays when placed) and loose (moves freely). And while I'm at it, would the clearance remains the same weither it's a round inside a round (peg inside another peg) or square inside square (I'm thinking a square box)? Lastly, what would the clearance need to be between 2 pieces next to each other (for exemple, if you want to make a 2x2cm cube out of 8 smaller cubes, the smaller cubes can't be 1x1cm, they'd have to be 0.?x0.? cm (clearance?)

I think that's it, hopefully I haven't forgotten anything :D

Constructive answers would be great, as so far the forum as only provided small and sparse information bits.
Thanks in any case!
 Topic: How to design a 3D packaging box with handholds(tutorial)
How to design a 3D packaging box with handholds(tutorial) [message #82050] Thu, 26 December 2013 00:44 UTC
avatar aprildjt  is currently offline aprildjt
Messages: 2
Registered: December 2013
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Junior Member
I am not very good at Shapeways, but I am trying. I want to be a active member in this forum. I can design a packaging box with 3D renderings, and how to print that. Packaging is very important for our daily goods. Here I am going to design a packaging gift box with handholds.

1 Open Packmage CAD drawing tool, draw your structure, before you start drawing, you should have a basic idea of the structure, just draw the basic structure. OR you can tear a toothpaste box, food box for inspiration.

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-89300200-1387853997_thumb.png

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-32102300-1387854222_thumb.png
add handholds
http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-10818300-1387854217_thumb.png

2 Check your structure with two ways, quick 3D and 3D blank sample:

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-90004900-1387854270_thumb.png

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-82347500-1387854267_thumb.png

3 Design the way you want your box to fold.

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-05753400-1387854336_thumb.png

4 Import the artwork or images and view the 3D color sample

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-12694000-1387854411_thumb.png

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-46995400-1387854400_thumb.png

5 Smart step and repeat

http://www.webdesignerforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-59649-0-04174900-1387854408_thumb.png

6 Print your structure, and output PDF

http://www.estetica-design-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13923&d=1387590091&thumb=1

[Updated on: Thu, 26 December 2013 00:45 UTC]

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