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Forum: Post Production Techniques
 Topic: Thorn Dice - Painted
Thorn Dice - Painted [message #66999] Sun, 28 April 2013 17:30 UTC
avatar imbusion  is currently offline imbusion
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I ordered the thorn dice with decader in black as a present for a friend. I was a bit disappointed at how hard it was to read the numbers on the dice, so I bought some orange acrylic paint and applied that to the numbers. I've touched it up a bit since I took this photo, but I was very pleased with the result:

http://i.imgur.com/U515EdY.jpg

The 7 on the 8-sided die seems to have an error, or maybe it was just awkwardly modeled, but other than that I'm looking forward to giving this gift.

Edit: In retrospect... I'm not sure if this was the best sub-forum for this post. If a mod thinks this would be better suited elsewhere, please feel free to move it. Thanks and sorry for any trouble!

[Updated on: Sun, 28 April 2013 17:41 UTC]

 Topic: Best glue, spackle and sandpaper for WSF?
Best glue, spackle and sandpaper for WSF? [message #66660] Mon, 22 April 2013 19:52 UTC
avatar SophieKahn  is currently offline SophieKahn
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Hi everyone,

I am working on a series of 4 large sculptures, produced in WSF. Some of them were actually a little too large for the machine, so there are some small parts that need to be re-attached. I plan to spackle the join once it has been glued, and spray-paint the whole thing. I did this previously on one piece that did not require gluing, and was happy with the result.

I also received one model with a visible line that runs across the whole of the piece, where the two lasers needed to print it did not quite line up. So far I haven't had a whole lot of luck sanding it. I was reluctant to use very coarse paper as I didn't want to scratch the rest of the surface. So my questions are:

-What's the best glue for gluing two parts that are 6mm thick to each other? (I saw in the archives that some people recommended 4 hr epoxy? Any updated recommendations?)

-Any spackle recommendations?

-Lastly, what grade of sandpaper have people used to sand down problematic areas on their models without actually polishing the whole thing?

Here's a previous piece so you can see the kind of object I'm talking about.

Thanks!


http://www.scannerworksny.com
 Topic: Removing excess white goo (glue?) from Full Color Sandstone? (Pics)
Removing excess white goo (glue?) from Full Color Sandstone? (Pics) [message #62664] Sat, 23 February 2013 20:01 UTC
avatar Brian123  is currently offline Brian123
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I just received an order last week and haven't been able to post about it until now.

It's hard to get a 100% perfect print. There's likely to be a small blemish. Like an LCD might have a dead pixel. Though, if I a dead pixel is in the center of the screen, it becomes a big issue. Sadly, that's what happened with this print.

This print has some kind of white goo (glue) stuck on the character's face. So you always see it every time you take a look. The rest of the print meets standards ( great colors, smooth, no chips, etc.)

The blemish seems solid and I don't want to try scratching it off. Has anyone had to deal with this issue? Any techniques?

I normally wouldn't complain if it was more hidden. Right on the face just ruins it, almost no different than physically damaged there.

I'll e-mail service for suggestions and what they think.

index.php?t=getfile&id=27901&private=0

 Topic: ABS Conductive printing material
ABS Conductive printing material [message #62399] Tue, 19 February 2013 18:45 UTC
avatar andradebh  is currently offline andradebh
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Hi,

I am looking for a service that can print with electric conductive materials.
The best option would be conductive ABS but metalized also can be used.

http://www.repraper.com/goods.php?id=173


 Topic: Soft PVC material for printing
Soft PVC material for printing [message #62397] Tue, 19 February 2013 18:36 UTC
avatar andradebh  is currently offline andradebh
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Hi,

I am looking for a printing service of very soft material like rubber or silicon that can be directly printed. (soft and very flexible)

Is there any similar material available for printing?

 Topic: Painting FUD Products
Painting FUD Products [message #55573] Thu, 18 October 2012 14:52 UTC
avatar fred.oliver  is currently offline fred.oliver
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After reading all the advice and horror stories I could find on the forum, I tried painting my first FUD products - two ship models and a model of a Bloodhound missile. I washed all three with warm water and mild hand soap and let them dry thoroughly. I primed them with Game Color white acrylic primer and let them dry for several days. I painted the ship models with enamel paints (that's what I've been using for the last fifty years). I'm almost done with the ships and things are going well. When I tried painting the missile with white enamel, it seemed to dissolve the primer. I scrubbed the missile as best I could with paint thinner and put it to soak in brake fluid. (That's the most benign way I've found to remove enamel paint from plastics.)

The only difference between the ships and the missiles is that the former got two coats of primer, while the latter got only one. Should a second coat of primer make that much difference?

I'll let you know what happens to the ships after they're Dull Coated (I'm not expecting anything bad with so many layers of primer and paint on the FUD). I'll also let you know if the missile model survives the brake fluid bath.

I encourage designers of small-scale airplanes to offer all their products in WSF. Detail may be lost but WSF seems to be a much friendlier material.
 Topic: any technique to make a final good look for an iphone case in WSF? or in dyed colors?
any technique to make a final good look for an iphone case in WSF? or in dyed colors? [message #55050] Mon, 08 October 2012 23:54 UTC
avatar Jose_narvaez  is currently offline Jose_narvaez
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index.php?t=getfile&id=21420&private=0


hello everyone i just recently buy a model i designed you can see it here: http://www.shapeways.com/model/701408/d0cf14f7928249d1402d49 c26a1b82aa
i just want to buy many of them for sell them by myself. i just got some questions: has anyone know some technique to make a good finish in WSF? or in dyed color how to prevent the dye wears off or to get a smooth finish. here is a picture of the 3d printed model

 Topic: shapeway's model to studio quality scale model
shapeway's model to studio quality scale model [message #54053] Sat, 15 September 2012 01:55 UTC
avatar tom_a_sparks  is currently offline tom_a_sparks
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i am looking for someone that can turn a shapeway's model into a studio quality scale model?
that includes painting and fibre optic lighting (if needed)
 Topic: Does dying with Dylon Universal effect the bio-compatibility of WSF?
Does dying with Dylon Universal effect the bio-compatibility of WSF? [message #52288] Sat, 04 August 2012 20:26 UTC
avatar pdb  is currently offline pdb
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Does dying with Dylon Universal effect the bio-compatibility of WSF?


boop
 Topic: Best material for a master to be investment cast
Best material for a master to be investment cast [message #50798] Wed, 04 July 2012 14:02 UTC
avatar ShootingSight  is currently offline ShootingSight
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I am starting a project to make a steel investment cast part. About 2" x 1" x 0.5".

I'm thinking in the few hundred parts range, it will end up fitting in an assembly of mechanical parts in a machine, so here are my initial thoughts.

1. Shapeways makes a master.
2. I build a form and cast it in RTV silicone.
3. I got a little wax injection molder, so I shoot waxes
4. I send them off to a foundary to get cast in tool steel
5. I finish machine (reaming a pivot hole, and touching a surface grinder to clean up one edge).
6. Send out for heat treat.

So, my questions I can think of are:

1. What material is best for my master? Presumably I want the best surface finish, though I could clean it up by hand.
2. Shrinkage. I assume 4%, though I would not apply shrinkage to my pivot hole, so it is 4% undersized, leaving enough meat for the reamer to clean up.

What am I missing?
 Topic: How to clean a metal 3D printed object
How to clean a metal 3D printed object [message #49933] Sun, 17 June 2012 17:42 UTC
avatar Magic  is currently offline Magic
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Sometimes in with a metal 3D printed object,you get some green material stuck into the small cavities. For instance, in a die, you can have them in the indented number.

I made a video to show how to clean that with a simple needle.

[Updated on: Mon, 18 June 2012 13:31 UTC] by Moderator


So many things to design, so little time...
 Topic: HUGE MODEL Nylon 12 painting advice
HUGE MODEL Nylon 12 painting advice [message #47390] Mon, 23 April 2012 18:56 UTC
avatar MauricioRomano  is currently offline MauricioRomano
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Hey guys, I've been trying to find a reasonable way to paint the nylon 12 white strong and flexible, and many of the topics here have been interesting, however, they all are for very small pieces.

I'm working on a large piece, and by that I mean, 16 inches across, by nine inches, by three. Unfortunately I cant dip this sized object it Rit Dye cost effectively, and I wouldn't want to brush paint it as I want an even coat.

So far, I was thinking of just lightly sanding, then primering with many light light coats of spray paint, followed by many light light coats of black paint. I don't know if there is a specific kind of spray paint that would work better than others.

Any advice helps, I'm open to all the different suggestions. Thanks!
 Topic: UV protection for PA 2200
UV protection for PA 2200 [message #46097] Wed, 28 March 2012 18:09 UTC
avatar di-fot  is currently offline di-fot
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Does anybody know which varnish I can use for UV protection for jewelry made in PA 2200.
 Topic: gluing different materials together
gluing different materials together [message #45885] Fri, 23 March 2012 19:47 UTC
avatar 2980707838  is currently offline 2980707838
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I plan to make different parts of my model out of different materials. I want to glue small pieces made out of WSF dark grey and transparent detail to the main body, which will be WFS polished. Does anyone have any recommendations for glue? Thanks.
 Topic: FUD in the wild
FUD in the wild [message #45448] Tue, 13 March 2012 22:21 UTC
avatar BillBedford  is currently offline BillBedford
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OK I know this is long, but it is worth following for to see how someone reacted to FUD and what he managed to do with it. The person in question is a more than averagely skilled modeller.

http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6919

Enjoy

[Updated on: Tue, 13 March 2012 22:26 UTC]


Bill Bedford
 Topic: NylonPA 2200
NylonPA 2200 [message #45235] Sat, 10 March 2012 12:41 UTC
avatar PUNEET.JODHKA  is currently offline PUNEET.JODHKA
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After you get your nylon PA2200 in white, as its porous material, it will turn into yellow right?
So if i use acrylic paint will it prevent from discolouration?

What if i rub two layers of nylon PA with each other, will the surface corrode?
 Topic: Stainless steel with inset of polymer clay
Stainless steel with inset of polymer clay [message #44199] Mon, 20 February 2012 06:05 UTC
avatar owlposse  is currently offline owlposse
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Hey guys!

I saw a while back there was a thread here where someone had cleverly laid polymer clay in grooves of a stainless steel piece.

I decided to have a crack at doing the same, and also bought myself a rotary tool with diamond burrs to polish it all up.

I first roughly polished the external parts of the ring (leaving the inside intact for character). I then smooshed the polymer clay into the grooves on the ring, making it all as neat and flush as possible. In the oven at 200ºF for 20 minutes or so then let it cool. Once cool I finished up the grinding and polishing.

Here are the results using black polymer, and also a granite looking polymer with grit mixed in. I like them a lot Smile

index.php?t=getfile&id=14736&private=0

 Topic: Flask burnout temps
Flask burnout temps [message #42805] Thu, 26 January 2012 15:50 UTC
avatar rwd  is currently offline rwd
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I'm just wondering if anyone who does lost wax casting directly from the printed article can share their flask burnout temps for the FUD or other materials? I've searched the forums and have found general suggestions, ie: "burnout hotter and longer" but haven't seen any specific guidelines.
 Topic: Plaster Master Molds from Prints
Plaster Master Molds from Prints [message #38863] Fri, 18 November 2011 23:56 UTC
avatar happy-funny  is currently offline happy-funny
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Hi all,

For our end product, we are creating a low production run of slip-cast ceramic figures. We want to 3D print the original models and cast plaster molds off the models.

Does anyone have experience creating this type of mold from the prints? We are trying to figure out which material will be the best for such a process (& if this print can be shelled out). Keeping in mind the possible warping from the plaster casting process. (We are trying to avoid having to make a silicone mold & recast in plaster.)

Please let us know if you have any info.

Thanks!
Charlene
 Topic: What Materials can I put resin on?
What Materials can I put resin on? [message #37828] Thu, 03 November 2011 04:04 UTC
avatar XxHeavens3DxX  is currently offline XxHeavens3DxX
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Okay I want to know if you could put resin on White, Stonge, Fexible: Nylon Materials? If you know please tell, and if you know a certan kind that works the best please tell or link. Why I want to know I want to make pretty dolls called BJD's and I want to coat the material with resin because some of these tipes of dolls are cotted with resin. SO please PLEASE tell me!
 Topic: Platinum cure silicone with transparent detail
Platinum cure silicone with transparent detail [message #35259] Tue, 27 September 2011 16:05 UTC
avatar Andrewelee  is currently offline Andrewelee
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Hi everyone,

Does anyone have any experience casting the transparent detail material in platinum cure silicone? I have heard that SLA parts can inhibit the cure of the silicone. If so, what is the best way to seal the surface before casting?

Thanks ahead of time!

-Andrew
 Topic: Shellac with Z-corp color material?
Shellac with Z-corp color material? [message #33751] Sun, 04 September 2011 00:32 UTC
avatar type3secretion  is currently offline type3secretion
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Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has used shellac or polyU with the color Z-corp material. I've used polyU on the non-color resin, but not sure which interaction of the resin. But I haven't tried shellac (which is alcohol based, not oil based).

Thanks for any help!

t3s
 Topic: Durability of FUD
Durability of FUD [message #33686] Fri, 02 September 2011 11:12 UTC
avatar thomasgropp  is currently offline thomasgropp
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Hi all!

I am building a wooden model ship and I would like to print some decoration parts in FUD. I already modeled some parts and ordered them to check the quality.
The only thing that concerns me is the durability of the material. I intend to paint the parts with acrylic paint and glue them to the hull. There will be no mechanical stress on them.

Of course there will be no experience how a FUD part will look like after 20 years..... Smile

But are there some estimates? Will it remain in shape or will it desintegrate and get brittle over time?

Thanks for any answers or guesses!
Thomas
 Topic: Formula De Miniatures Painted
Formula De Miniatures Painted [message #32490] Thu, 11 August 2011 08:37 UTC
avatar aegidian  is currently offline aegidian
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My stainless steel, F1 1962 miniatures (at approximately 1:240 scale).

http://www.shapeways.com/model/286707/

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6204/6031863010_f3e1153d1b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6145/6031306757_9f77139a6d.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6195/6031862504_59fdc0104f.jpg

I used Revell and Humbrol acrylics, over two coats of Humbrol Hobby Spray grey primer #1, and finished with two coats of Humbrol Hobby Spray gloss varnish #35.

I'm not the most steady-handed miniature painter, but give how tiny these are (about 10mmx15mmx5mm) and that they're intended to actually be played with (by adults). I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out.
 Topic: Any Advice on Decorative Chrome / Vacuum Metalizing for WSF?
Any Advice on Decorative Chrome / Vacuum Metalizing for WSF? [message #31097] Mon, 18 July 2011 16:10 UTC
avatar wongwong  is currently offline wongwong
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HI - Just received my WSF model from shapeways and looking for advice/leads/suggestions on getting the model chromed decorative silver.

Ideally I would like to find something in NYC but I know that's a stretch.

One company, Mueller, comes highly recommended for vacuum metalizing/chroming, but they have a $250 minimum.

http://www.muellercorp.com/decorativechrome.htm

Thanks

 Topic: How to get a matt plastic finish?
How to get a matt plastic finish? [message #20310] Wed, 10 November 2010 11:41 UTC
avatar clintjustice  is currently offline clintjustice
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Dear all,

I am looking to create a matt plastic finish (similar to that of an x-box) for some models I'm making with my colleague. We imagined that the 'White Detail (Acrylic-based photopolymer)' is the closest material Shapeways have to what we are looking for. Are there any finishes anyone could recommend to obtain this finish?

Thanks,

clintjustice
 Topic: vase
vase [message #20239] Mon, 08 November 2010 16:50 UTC
avatar SEIZMICdesign  is currently offline SEIZMICdesign
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I was about to upload my first model - a vase, and WSF seems like it would be a great material for it... except that supposedly it's not waterproof. The videos of the material make it look like it would be pretty watertight, but I guess not. Would white detail be the only plastic option if one wanted to put water in it? Otherwise I guess lining it with an epoxy would do the trick, no?
 Topic: Watercolor on WSF
Watercolor on WSF [message #19576] Sun, 24 October 2010 09:56 UTC
avatar Kaetemi  is currently offline Kaetemi
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Was torturing my sample kit holder with whatever I had lying around, and watercolors give a pretty good looking result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KksFs-sd1bg


Kaetemi
 Topic: Muriatic Acid and Stainless Steel
Muriatic Acid and Stainless Steel [message #16110] Sun, 15 August 2010 15:57 UTC
avatar ceramicwombat  is currently offline ceramicwombat
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Having a jug of muriatic acid leftover from a masonry project, I decided to test its effects on a few of my spare dice. Sources I found online said that muriatic acid (which is actually hydrochloric acid) blackened and dulled stainless steel and hastened oxidation in bronze.

I dropped the two test pieces into a glass of muriatic acid and let them stew for two hours. There was a fizzy bubbling and the acid turned lime green. Fumes of a foul nature were released. NOTE: If you are going to try this: 1. Wear eye protection and gloves, and 2. Do this outside or somewhere else with excellent ventilation.

After removing the pieces from the acid, rinsing them, and letting them dry, they had acquired a rosy pinkish hue. After a week, the oxidation has deepened to a darker copper tone.

http://www.chuckstover.com/Acid-1.jpg
http://www.chuckstover.com/Acid-2.jpg

The first piece, my Thorn Die20, has a lot of exposed surface area and darkened quite a bit more than my prototype Overstuffed Die20.

This method of producing a patina on the stainless steel material is a good way to make them look antiqued if you are comfortable working with powerful acids. If you are not comfortable working with acids, a patina with flame as described in other threads in this section produces a similar effect.
 Topic: Transparent detail help please
Transparent detail help please [message #11986] Wed, 21 April 2010 20:57 UTC
avatar farah  is currently offline farah
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I have recently ordered a part in the transparent material from shapeways. I needed it to be transparent, so have been sanding it (intending to polish) As i sanded, some marks have become apparent in the material. i think they are like bubbles, where the different layers of materials have not fused properly. I have included an image.
I am wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem, and might know if it's possible to use some sort of resin to make the fill the gaps/ make them invisible?
I'd appreciate any help
Smile
Farahindex.php?t=getfile&id=3361&private=0

 Topic: Paint SLS Nylon PA 12 Model
icon4.gif  Paint SLS Nylon PA 12 Model [message #10051] Sat, 20 February 2010 01:27 UTC
avatar mcrick  is currently offline mcrick
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Hi all,

I have an SLS Nylon PA 12 model which I need to apply a base coat to seal it, and a finish coat.

Can anyone help with particular brands of paints to use for both. I am seeking to either spray paint it or airbrush it.

I would need a clear coat for the base, because the final paint finish I am seeking is a soft white matte coat.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Rick
 Topic: photo-shaping with 'detail material' for a moldmaking model??
photo-shaping with 'detail material' for a moldmaking model?? [message #8953] Thu, 14 January 2010 03:46 UTC
avatar deshayne  is currently offline deshayne
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I am interested in the photoshaping process as a means of making shallow bas relief models to cast molds for jewelry.

Questions I have are:

Can the detail material be used?

What is the depth distance in mm from 100% black to 100% white in this process?

How many levels of gray are used?

Does the photoshaping creator app have to be used or can a grayscale file be submitted?

There is obviously a backing base of material...how thick is it and can that vary?

Thanks for any comments or information you might have.
 Topic: Material for model airplane?
Material for model airplane? [message #5857] Fri, 14 August 2009 01:43 UTC
avatar tn_prvteye  is currently offline tn_prvteye
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Should I go with the WSF or the White Detail? This is a 1/72 scale aircraft (about 6 inches long), and I plan on painting it with enamels and sealing it with a coat a Future (like I do all my other styrene kits).

Which would be better?
 Topic: Decals on WSF?
Decals on WSF? [message #5788] Tue, 11 August 2009 15:24 UTC
avatar Johnny9000  is currently offline Johnny9000
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Hi there

I was wondering if anyone had any experience applying decals onto their models? I want to apply a map onto a globe made in white strong and flexible, and was planning to do this using decal transfers.

I have laser decal paper that i can print onto, and on their website they have instructions for applying to various surfaces
http://www.lazertran.com/products/lazertran_products_origina l.htm

Does anyone know the best way to apply?

Thanks a lot

Johnny

[Updated on: Tue, 11 August 2009 15:27 UTC]

Forum: 3D Printing
 Topic: shoulder axle/pin/shaft/dowel pin for rotation?
shoulder axle/pin/shaft/dowel pin for rotation? [message #118067] Wed, 24 June 2015 17:39 UTC
avatar shape_marc  is currently offline shape_marc
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I would like to
- create a shouldered pin* in order to glue gearwheels** to it
- ask you for any advice or link that may hint me towards a solution, material suggestions or external manufacturers

i already had a look at misumi, conrad, rscomponents, alibaba, ebay, amazon "small parts" ...
but could not find any suitable solution, wonder, if this part can be 3d printed.
Any ideas are highly appreciated:

* pin's dimensions:

__________--------------=================---------------
__________left________________center___________right
diameter__1 mm______________2.5 mm__________1 mm
length____2 mm______________13 mm___________2 mm

**Gearwheels to attach: made from delrin & brass.
These gearwheels are spinning at a speed of ca. 4000 rounds per minute
(a "prototype" worked well with superglued-gearwheels:
I used 1mm steel wire surrounded by heat-shrinked tube)

 Topic: Intersection geometry
Intersection geometry [message #117974] Tue, 23 June 2015 09:00 UTC
avatar PaulMcCann  is currently offline PaulMcCann
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Hi, im new here , trying to get a basics of 3d printing and now preparing a model for it. well, i create model in 3ds max then added shel modifier , and i got such picture. so what to do next with it?

[Updated on: Tue, 23 June 2015 09:01 UTC]

 Topic: At what point does WSF become rigid/strong rather as opposed to being flexible?
At what point does WSF become rigid/strong rather as opposed to being flexible? [message #117189] Fri, 12 June 2015 13:59 UTC
avatar RestoToyForce  is currently offline RestoToyForce
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index.php?t=getfile&id=104059&private=0Hello,

I would like to know when designing my models the point at which WSF becomes rigid/strong as opposed to being flexible.

Example:

I have a model in which the bounding box is 100mm x 50mm x 25mm, the design is pretty much a rectangular box. Would this model be rigid if it was hollowed out with a 3mm thick wall or would it still remain flexible?

Basically I would like to know what thickness of wall would best yield a stronger more rigid model.

Many thanks for your help.

David.index.php?t=getfile&id=104059&private=0

  • Attachment: Capture.JPG
    (Size: 75.80KB, Downloaded 28 time(s))


Resto Toy Force
 Topic: 3D printing stocks
3D printing stocks [message #116381] Fri, 29 May 2015 12:59 UTC
avatar perkyskeleton  is currently offline perkyskeleton
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I am looking forward to invest in some 3-D printing stocks. The technology seems to have wide range of applications and hence expected to show some good growth. Since I haven't invested for this before, I have gone across several readings on the same and performed my own analysis. I found Stratasys Ltd. (SSYS) worth investing. Anybody who have invested in this before?
 Topic: Level of 'erosion' from polish?
Level of 'erosion' from polish? [message #115589] Sun, 17 May 2015 08:42 UTC
avatar thegreger  is currently offline thegreger
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I'm considering printing a topgraphic model of a mountain lake in silver, to be used as a small piece of jewelry (about 7x4 cm, so maybe 3 inches tall). However, I'm concerned about whether to choose raw or polished silver. My two concerns are
a) Printing lines. Obviously, my decision on whether to polish it or not depends on how pronounced these artefacts are.
b) Surface erosion from polishing. Since it's an alpine lake, it's very important to me to capture the jagged structure of the surrounding mountains. With a model this small, I'm concerned that the polishing process might leave me with smoother edges and less detail, giving the impression of smooth hills rather than dramatic mountains.

Does anyone here have experience with ordering unpolished silver models and polishing them yourselves to get the desired results? Is it even possible to get rid of printing lines and similar structures yourself, or will I need special tools? In that case, I could polish selectively, focusing more on flat surfaces like the lake and leaving the mountain edges more or less alone.

I'd be really grateful for any input. All I have to go by so far is a google image search.

http://i.imgur.com/swhlQI8.png

[Updated on: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:44 UTC]

 Topic: Adobe Illustrator or photoshop ?
Adobe Illustrator or photoshop ? [message #115324] Tue, 12 May 2015 02:47 UTC
avatar tsneed0409  is currently offline tsneed0409
Messages: 3
Registered: May 2015
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hello Shapeway Team,

is it possible for me to use Adobe Illustrator or photoshop for my 3D design?
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