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Forum: Work in progress
 Topic: Making my animations real
Making my animations real [message #6797] Thu, 24 September 2009 09:40 UTC
avatar Inlite  is currently offline Inlite
Messages: 116
Registered: June 2009
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Ive been learning how to animate using blender and after about 1.5 months staring at my characters onscreen I decided to get one printed, just ordered it today Very Happy

For anyone interested, here's a link to the first part of the animation :

http://www.vimeo.com/6663345

Im having the camera printed - its a simple model but Id like to have it sitting on my desk while I animate it Very Happy

[Updated on: Thu, 24 September 2009 09:42 UTC]

 Topic: Anyring
Anyring [message #6436] Fri, 11 September 2009 12:36 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
Messages: 5971
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I work here
Am I the only one developing things? lol jk

So Anyring
http://www.shapeways.com/model/51260/anyring.html
I've been working on the idea the last few days. I was thinking of joints and axles. I wanted to make something that could move in all directions except where the joint was attached. I started with 2 rings and 2 barrings. I thought this will work great... till I looked at it from the side. Not only would the barrings roam free if the rings were aligned, but the rings would more then easily slide apart. Then I went with an idea I had a few years ago. an idea I call a moving surface. It involves a globe rotating around another globe, which would probably work, but way too much surface area, and removing the build material in between would be difficult, and cause much friction. So I came to this design. Same idea as the globes but took it down to rings. 3 rings with 2 barrings. At first I noticed when the rings were aligned the barrings would roam, so I attached them together. They can't escape the inner and outer rings because they are in a groove in the rings that closes in on the top. Then I thought the barrings would be able to not only roam but rock back and forth now that they are not just spheres, so I joined the 2 sets with a ring. So (to be tested) the inner ring should be able to face any direction (didn't include axles so no limitations on rotation) and be able to spin. Now (if it works) all I have to do is figure out how I would robotically move the center. I'll put images on the item seeing max files per message is now 1?


I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou
michael@shapeways.com Community Advocate
 Topic: Bracelet in Stainless
Bracelet in Stainless [message #6383] Wed, 09 September 2009 13:14 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
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Well seeing I've sold more of my bracelet then anything else, I made it to be printed in stainless. http://www.shapeways.com/model/50760/bracelet_stainless.html Would go well with a Stainless Mayan Calender Pendent, which comes out to $24 something in stainless.


I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou
michael@shapeways.com Community Advocate
 Topic: Thermal Engine
Thermal Engine [message #5684] Wed, 05 August 2009 14:35 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
Messages: 5971
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I just noticed today someone ordered my thermal engine. Well 2 copies of it Very Happy. If this person would so kindly let me know how it comes out when they get it. I haven't had a chance to print it yet, besides it's on my stainless wish list for high heat testing. Plus it is a theory of my own that it will work. Haven't seen anything like it out there. But if my noggin is working right than so should it.

[Updated on: Wed, 05 August 2009 14:36 UTC]


I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou
michael@shapeways.com Community Advocate
 Topic: the Steam Gondela
the Steam Gondela [message #4592] Sun, 24 May 2009 20:11 UTC
avatar tree  is currently offline tree
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index.php?t=getfile&id=764&private=0

this is what i have so far, its meant to be a steam punky style air ship. but with a fantacy twist.


should i put the lasting and stuff on the top (the same as the back fins) or is that gonna be to much for the over all look?

also any ideas for a figurehead



just hope i get some responces this time

  • Attachment: boat.jpg
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 Topic: South Pointing Chariot
South Pointing Chariot [message #4511] Tue, 19 May 2009 20:40 UTC
avatar iguffick  is currently offline iguffick
Messages: 74
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Hi,
I'm working on a south pointing chariot (ignore the wheels, they're not finished).

index.php?t=getfile&id=742&private=0

Ideally I want this to be printed in one piece, i.e. with the gears already on the axle. I have two ideas to achieve this.

1. Have the gears located in their correct position with sufficient clearance, so that my model doesn't become one solid piece (but not too much or the gears will become 'sloppy').

2. Have the gears positioned away from their normal position, further along the axle with the axle reduced for greater clearance. After printing the gears would be moved into position on the thicker part of the axle, and maybe locked in place with a clip on ring of some sort.

I would welcome any thoughts, ideas or comments!

Best regards, Ian.

  • Attachment: spc_wip.jpg
    (Size: 75.09KB, Downloaded 3281 time(s))

 Topic: Click-together and frictional parts?
Click-together and frictional parts? [message #4508] Tue, 19 May 2009 17:31 UTC
avatar Autonomicum  is currently offline Autonomicum
Messages: 10
Registered: May 2009
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Hello,

What are the design specifics for designing click-together parts in WSF?
Also how does it held up to friction?
Are all designed clearances about 0.2mm?

Also how much for given thickness and mm2 does the WSF flex? I have designed my parts with 2mm thickness and 60mm long and I hope it to flex, when pressed, about 2 to 4mm.

I want to design a ribbed outer click stop ring around a tube that drives/moves another tube inside it and I want it all to click together.
I´m designing an optical gadget that will have diopter correction in btw.

Thanks,
T

[Updated on: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:34 UTC]

 Topic: Gear Heart
Gear Heart [message #4421] Thu, 14 May 2009 20:52 UTC
avatar thehumanhive  is currently offline thehumanhive
Messages: 16
Registered: January 2009
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Hi Shapies,

Here is my latest piece, Gear Heart; an extension of the Gear Ball project and Maker Faire contest entry.

It is also a tribute to papercraft artist Haruki Nakamura's kinetic sculpture, Gear's Heart.
(His amazing YouTube video can be seen here: Gear's Heart)

Gear Heart
http://www.kilbit.com/gear_heart.jpg

A sample of what it looks like when rotated.
http://www.kilbit.com/gear_heart_rotated.jpg

It looks good in red. Smile
http://www.kilbit.com/gear_heart_red.jpg

I started this topic because the 2+ pages of comments on the product page can get a little confusing.

Here are some answers to a few of the questions I've received:
The model has been ordered and is currently being printed. I will definitely post pictures (and video!) to the "It arrived!" forum when it arrives.
It uses the same core/connectors as the Gear Ball, so I don't anticipate any mechanical problems.
All 13 parts are hollow to a thickness of 2mm.
I do plan on acid dying it red, so I'll be sure to share that experience, too. Smile

The product page can be found, here:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/29355/gear_heart.html

I hope you all like it. Smile
If you do, please give it a rating!

Thanks!
David
The Human Hive
 Topic: First model
First model [message #3948] Fri, 17 April 2009 09:45 UTC
avatar FishFace  is currently offline FishFace
Messages: 3
Registered: April 2009
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So, I saw all of those wonderful mathematical knotty things and thought I'd try the same:

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/8074/3curved.jpg

My inspiration for the shape was the mathematical figure, "Compound of 5 Tetrahedra." It took quite a while faffing around in blender to get that thing right. I had a pretty well-defined picture in my mind already, so the first step I did was create the outline of the shape except, instead of letting the wires follow the tetrahedra, I had them start at the vertex then angle down into the five-pointed star. This produced a messy, angular shape, which I had intended to use as a jump-point to a more pleasant version.
So I rotated the intersections points a bit and put some more resolution in the arms. At this point though, there wasn't the interlocking of adjacent strands you see here. I also had to figure out exactly how I was going to duplicate the single component across the entire model, since there was no way I could work with the whole thing at the same time! In the end I had to use 4 array modifiers, producing 3, 2, 2 and 5 copies each, for a total of 60 copies of the initial piece. After some fiddling I got the merging working nicely and I increased the rotation to obtain the interlocking.
Deciding that using simple subsurf wasn't going to cut it, I replaced the old arm with a new one made of a beveled curve to get a more uniform appearance. After converting it and manually filling in faces/vertex pushing to get it to merge at the intersections, and you have what you see here!

Here is the uploaded model page Initially I tried to upload a 3-level subsurfed model - oops - 600,000 or so triangles >_< Just 160k with level 2, thankfully.

[Updated on: Fri, 17 April 2009 10:50 UTC]

 Topic: Puzzle shop - price drop
Puzzle shop - price drop [message #3728] Fri, 03 April 2009 09:15 UTC
avatar richgain  is currently offline richgain
Messages: 42
Registered: August 2008
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Now that I have a range of puzzles on offer I have decided to rationalise the price list and offer you some top quality items with minimal mark-up.
The larger puzzles warrant an order of their own, whilst the smaller ones make great fillers when you need to top that order up to $25.

Catalogue at 3rd April 2009
http://www.shapeways.com/shoplogo/105.jpg

  1. Steady State Cube - 2.4 cm - $25
  2. Happiness Cube - 2.1 cm - $20
  3. Cubed Burr II - 2.1 cm - $20
  4. Primary Gain Cube - 1.6 cm - $10
  5. Tertiary Gain Cube - 1.6 cm - $10
  6. Inside Out Cube - 1.5 cm - $9
  7. The Seldom Seen Cube - 1.5 cm - $9
  8. World's Smallest Cube Puzzle - 0.75 cm - $2

Treat yourself to a challenge.

[Updated on: Fri, 03 April 2009 09:29 UTC]


"a wise man's tools are analogies and puzzles"
Röyksopp - Remind Me
 Topic: Justice has a gatling gun
Justice has a gatling gun [message #3615] Sun, 29 March 2009 13:03 UTC
avatar Hoxolotl  is currently offline Hoxolotl
Messages: 7
Registered: March 2009
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Current work in progress:

Lady Justice with a cigar and a Gatling gun...
I present to you the Gatling gun, the rest will follow.

[img]index.php?t=getfile&id=428&private=0[/img

Once it's finalized I'll have it printed.
Comments and advice are welcome,

 Topic: quick doodle, but maybe a next print
quick doodle, but maybe a next print [message #2983] Sun, 15 February 2009 14:48 UTC
avatar chris89  is currently offline chris89
Messages: 140
Registered: January 2009
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A quick one from last night.
It could be considered my first real try at a face, so the anatomy is probably totally off haha.

Still have to make a small stand for it and then the printing fun can begin.

http://i40.tinypic.com/2dbtdhj.jpg
 Topic: Ancient Time Piece
Ancient Time Piece [message #2329] Mon, 29 December 2008 17:45 UTC
avatar Whystler  is currently offline Whystler
Messages: 570
Registered: September 2008
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Hello folks,

I thought I might show you a work-in-progress that I have entered into the 3d metal print contest.

It's called a Nocturnal ... or sometimes a Nocturlab. This is an ancient device that mostly sailors used to use to tell time at night when you could see the stars in the Northern Hemisphere. It works very nicely as a pendant.

http://www.shapeways.com/modules/udesign/utils/openfile.php?id=12075&f=photos/photo928.jpg

It works on the principle that the north star (currently Polaris) sits in the centre of the night sky, while the rest of the stars revolve around it. In truth, it's the earth that is revolving, and Polaris is the closest star aligned to our north pole so it remains mostly stationary.

Since the rotation shifts throughout the year due to the earth's position around the sun, the Nocturnal has special dials to compensate for this.

The first dial, which rotates around the edge, is used to point to the day of the year that you are viewing the sky. The months are indicated in letters around the edge. Then, you hold the Nocturnal in front of you, until you locate the star Polaris (our current north star) through the hole in the middle. Next, you use the long pointer to point to the two aligned stars at the end of the bowl of the Big Dipper. Once this is all done, you look a little lower on the long pointer to see that there is a smaller pointer embedded in it. This smaller pointer points to a roman numeral, which itells you the time. If it points to the beginning of the circle which holds the numeral, then it reads on the hour. The further along the circle the dial points, the later in the hour it is (ie. in the middle of the numeral would read half past).

The image above points to February 11th at 4pm ... assuming you can see the stars at 4pm! I set it to that time because it looks nicely balanced yet not too symmetrical in the picture Rolling Eyes

A little complex, but useful and low on energy Wink

Here is a link to the product... I have ordered a few to test the item. Once it passes the test, I will offer it for sale.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/12075/nocturnal.html

-Whystler

[Updated on: Mon, 29 December 2008 17:52 UTC]


Check out my website: http://tshawnjohnson.wordpress.com/
 Topic: AWN project, Modern Knight Templar
AWN project, Modern Knight Templar [message #1536] Thu, 09 October 2008 13:40 UTC
avatar aws357  is currently offline aws357
Messages: 52
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Here is my entry for the AWN thingy... Quite a huge and ambitious object, but this one is also a long time dream of mine (like the Galatean Dream object).

By the way, the head in this object is as big as the Galatean Dream object... I modified the hair meshes from my previous experience with GD. Built a 0.5 mm cube in Blender and then fattened the hair strands to stay within limits...

http://www.shapeways.com/model/6227/modern_knight_templar.ht ml

http://www.shapeways.com/modules/udesign/utils/openfile.php?id=6227&f=6227_large.jpg

I had difficulty to make it printable but managed to squeeze it down the tube by trimming some unnecessary polys... (thanks for the explanations Bart).

I might look at the mesh again as there might be other ways to put more details where they are needed and sacrifice poly where it will not affect the overall structure...

And I will try to hollow the pedestal too...

Let me know what you think of it (and for shapeways staff taking a look, what possibly could Jeopardize the printing of such a huge piece... maybe it's unprintable too aaaugh)

PS : for those wondering, the inspiration comes from a now defunct game named HellGate: London... Quite an interesting universe and game. But hey... because of modern economy and all sort of monkey business... it didn't hit (it busted in fact... anyway... moving on)

[Updated on: Thu, 09 October 2008 13:44 UTC]

Forum: 3D Design
 Topic: upload stalls - no errors, but won't save
upload stalls - no errors, but won't save [message #116361] Fri, 29 May 2015 00:21 UTC
avatar mjl1966  is currently offline mjl1966
Messages: 1
Registered: May 2015
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This is my first upload. It is a 2' x 1' box with left and right side with square holes. It is a seriously simple object and fits within the bounds of most if not all materials. Wall thickness is 1" and 0.5" Sketchup DAE export.

After it uploads, every single material says "Loading" in the autochecks. column.

If I go to my models and check "show unprintable models", it becomes available for view, edit, 3d tools and delete. If I click on 3D tools, I see a material overview pane where "wall thickness" and "machine space" show a spinning symbol.

And absolutely nothing else happens.

No errors, no messages, just perpetual wait state.

So, what am I doing wrong?

 Topic: Artcam export file
Artcam export file [message #116194] Tue, 26 May 2015 11:47 UTC
avatar lwilliams198995  is currently offline lwilliams198995
Messages: 1
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Hi all!!!

Im very new to this so bare with me.
I so desperately want to create 3d relief colour photos.
Artcam seems to be the best for what i am looking for but is it possible to either export or convert to a 3d printable file?

Would i have to export to 3 different files (mapping, texture etc.) And upload as a zip file.

Please refrain from listing other cad software.... ive already explored them all and artcam seems to be the quickest to learn and perfect for the results i want.

Please help!!!


Thank you so much in advance. XxX

 Topic: Alternatives to classic Marching Cubes
Alternatives to classic Marching Cubes [message #113805] Tue, 14 April 2015 16:36 UTC
avatar shawn_halayka  is currently offline shawn_halayka
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What isosurface algorithm do you use? I'm using classic Marching Cubes, but I'd like to try any other algorithm that you may suggest.

Thanks.
 Topic: 3D Print Nano Drone that Takes Selfies and Combines Virtual Reality
3D Print Nano Drone that Takes Selfies and Combines Virtual Reality [message #112794] Wed, 25 March 2015 09:13 UTC
avatar KathyElecfreaks  is currently offline KathyElecfreaks
Messages: 3
Registered: June 2014
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Hi everybody, I'd like to share something about the 3D software design of the ELF VRdrone, which you can get an overview by clicking here.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/elf-3d-model-.jpg

It's based on FDM printers, generally using ABS or PLA as filaments.

Modular design: split complex parts into a few simple parts, assemble them after printing.

If we noticed, we'll find that by splitting the motor housing into 2 parts, the structure of "large upper part, small lower part" we mentioned at the beginning will not appear, and the success rate is greatly enhanced. Thus, for more complex designs, and those "large upper part, small lower part" unavoidable, consider about dismantling the model into several parts.

Take the ELF WIFICAM housing as an example, before we secure it to the drone, we part it into 2 parts: the shell and the hook. With the WIFICAM firstly mounted into the shell, we can then fix it on the drone using the hook.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/3D-print-modular-design.jpg

As you can see from the above design, every part can be guaranteed without any support or post-processing. We apply the same trick on the ELF battery case design.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-modular-design.jpg

Last comes the ELF overall body. The "dismantling rule" also works. In a word, for a larger overall framework, you need to work extremely intensively on every little bit to avoid collapse and pay extra efforts on the support as well as post-processing only to get a fairly humble print. The utilization of "modular design" is really important.

After printing all the parts, people will probably think about how to assemble them into an integrated robot. In the following parts, we are going to talk about some points important to pay attention.

Important points of modular design

Traditional assembly design requires up to 0.1 mm difference in size between the parts. However, due to the nozzle head diameter of FDM, the final prints have some discrepancy compared to the 3D models. Take the nozzle of 0.4 mm diameter as an instance, to print a 10x10x10 (mm), but it will result in 10×10.4×10.4 (mm) cube. Why is that?



The above picture shows that it is because the nozzle head diameter is 0.4 mm, the print length and width are both 10.4 mm, while the height remains 10 mm. If it is a single object, such errors can be ignored; but if it is several parts which will be assembled into something new, then still using the "0.1 mm difference" like we normally do will be a problem. Taking into account the mutual engagement of the two parts will eventually be more than 0.4 mm error as the design size, we come to the conclusion that the two parts must have 0.9 mm difference in size. If you need to fit them tight, narrow that difference to 0.8 mm.

Design the most efficient print how-tos.

Try to leave out support, which consumes much time outside of the useful print part and requires removal.

Use hollowed design if necessary since this saves time and filaments.

Choose the proper filaments.

FMD mainly uses two filaments: ABS and PLA, each with its own characteristics. We need to choose the proper type under different circumstances.

PLA with lower melting point, has better adhesive properties, emits no odor during the printing process-which is the biggest advantage.

ABS is better known for its low density, light weight, good toughness and certain flexibility.

If you need to print a craft, having nothing strict requirement on the weight and the toughness, then PLA is the best choice. But if you want the model lighter with some hooks or buckles, and toughness, ABS must be better. The ELF is printed by using ABS.

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-using-ABS-3D-print.jpg

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-model-1.jpg

http://www.elecfreaks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ELF-3D-model-3.jpg

All the 3D print models mentioned above can be found on MakerbotThingiverse. If you want a 3D print nano drone, welcome to check out on our Indiegogo campaign page.
 Topic: How to export from second life and open sim to shapeways
How to export from second life and open sim to shapeways [message #112313] Mon, 16 March 2015 23:19 UTC
avatar DrWhoJohnSmith  is currently offline DrWhoJohnSmith
Messages: 8
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every wanted to have an object you made in second life or open sim in real life now you can with these instructions don't be afraid to use the pause button. 3d world prints have less restrictions of textures as most 3d softwares. I have use it to make things and put it on shapeways.com a few times before here is how to do it.
https://youtu.be/0-MyWe2RG6Y https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_2289922_3738300_1426497157.jpghttps://images4.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_2290258_3740249_1426499021.jpg
pictures are a few examples of exported work

[Updated on: Mon, 16 March 2015 23:27 UTC]


Don't Blink
 Topic: need help with photoshop color model
need help with photoshop color model [message #111863] Mon, 09 March 2015 07:33 UTC
avatar BloomingVineDesign  is currently offline BloomingVineDesign
Messages: 3
Registered: March 2015
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I am trying to make a sandstone pendant. 2.5 x 2.5 about inches. I am using photoshop and in photoshop, weather O extrude or add a bubble preset to the model, the image is scaled and stretched to fit completely. When I upload to shapeways I get a gray outline and the image is off, as if the actual image was smaller. any help? Thanks so much. I am new to shapeways and 3d.

here is the product for you to see as uploaded. https://www.shapeways.com/product/USAK4NEPU/bluegreencelticc rosspendant-wrl?key=0246c31568c32c49ef83a1ca03225969


http://bloomingvinedesign.com one site to sell to all.. one site to find them.. one site to spend hours on and with the colors blind them.
 Topic: Tinkercad Shortcuts
Tinkercad Shortcuts [message #111583] Thu, 05 March 2015 01:37 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
Messages: 54
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Just stumbled across this:

http://blog.tinkercad.com/keyboard-shortcuts/

VERY useful if you're learning Tinkercad or wouldn't mind
a useful reference.
 Topic: Inkscape - Openscad / Inkscape - Tinkercad
Inkscape - Openscad / Inkscape - Tinkercad [message #111581] Thu, 05 March 2015 00:41 UTC
avatar unkerjay  is currently offline unkerjay
Messages: 54
Registered: January 2015
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If you didn't already know, Tinkercad imports SVG files from Inkscape.

Also, there's a converter for Inkscape to Openscad (both programs - FREE). And from
Openscad, you can edit (if you like), compile the saved file and export it to STL format.

The Openscad exporter is here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25036

Instructions are here:

Linux:
http://jfayel.net/post/58351618292/inkscape-gets-openscad-co nverter

Windows:
http://blogs.msdn.com/b/rihamselim/archive/2013/06/08/how-to -convert-pretty-much-any-image-to-a-3d-object.aspx

[Updated on: Thu, 05 March 2015 00:43 UTC]

 Topic: Need A Designer For Pandora beads
Need A Designer For Pandora beads [message #111411] Mon, 02 March 2015 21:53 UTC
avatar jrobichaud  is currently offline jrobichaud
Messages: 1
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I needs some 3D models done of Pandora beads using client logos.
 Topic: Adding textures/finishes to a 3D model
Adding textures/finishes to a 3D model [message #111146] Wed, 25 February 2015 22:08 UTC
avatar MadAsU  is currently offline MadAsU
Messages: 54
Registered: September 2014
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I am looking to add texture to some models - primarily wall finishes to HO scale models. The kind of thing I am looking for are brick/stone/wood walls and corrugated iron roofs.

The model in question is:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/FKN587EE4/ho-scale-outhous e-1-87

I appreciate that any texture won't work with wsf, but perhaps I could get them to work with detailed plastics...

Any ideas other than manually creating the textures? I am hoping there is something I can do to select a surface and apply the texture.

I am using 123D Design from Autodesk.

Thanks
Dain


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 Topic: matte black steel durability?
matte black steel durability? [message #110196] Tue, 10 February 2015 18:12 UTC
avatar Liquid_Noir  is currently offline Liquid_Noir
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Hi there I'm wondering if anyone has much experience with matte black steel jewelry? I have printed one piece in this material but intending to sell it and have a potential customer asking if the black will wear off. Anyone have more insight into the creation process for this material, or know how it wears long term for jewelry? Thanks for your help, any info would be greatly appreciated.


Liquid Noir
 Topic: Help - 'out of memory' error code when using Netfabb
Help - 'out of memory' error code when using Netfabb [message #109002] Tue, 27 January 2015 05:14 UTC
avatar gibbo1984  is currently offline gibbo1984
Messages: 16
Registered: September 2014
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Hi I keep getting an 'out of memory' error code when using Netfabb? does anyone know why this is happening and how I can avoid it? thanks
 Topic: Minimum ring band thickness for polished brass/bronze
Minimum ring band thickness for polished brass/bronze [message #108372] Mon, 19 January 2015 12:40 UTC
avatar okacat  is currently offline okacat
Messages: 1
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Hello!

I'm in the process of designing a ring, that I'm either going to order in polished brass, preferably. Bronze is also an option if it turns out it's stronger. My question is, what would the minimum thickness of the band need to be? Currently mine is at 1.1mm, I could go up to 1.25mm if needed. The profile of the band is a square, not a circle (cross section). Would brass be strong enough for a ring like that?
 Topic: [London] Show your 3D design skills at the 2nd Imakrthon on February 7
[London] Show your 3D design skills at the 2nd Imakrthon on February 7 [message #107738] Mon, 12 January 2015 17:36 UTC
avatar ze_butcher  is currently offline ze_butcher
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2015
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Junior Member
iMakr and MyMiniFactory present the second iMakrthon, the hackathon dedicated to 3D printing. This next edition will be held on 7th February and will focus on 3D sculpture.

The focus will be to produce a 3D printable, 3D sculpted piece of concept art. Participants will compete against each other in a 24 hour competition held at the iMakr Store, 79 Clerkenwell Road, London.
This is a call to all 3D designers who want to test their skills and see what they can produce in a highly competitive enviroment.
The design brief will be announced on the day of the competition.
The winner will recieve a one of a kind 30cm 3D print of their design, printed by the DeltaWASP 3D printer. Their design will then be professionally finished by the post processing team at MyMiniFactory. All entrants will recieve a 10cm high 3D print of their design.

If you are interested in participating please register here and send an example of your 3D modeling work that best showcases your abilities to zac@imakr.com in order to be considered as an entrant.
 Topic: Colored Sandstone Printing - Not All Colors Printing Properly
Colored Sandstone Printing - Not All Colors Printing Properly [message #104544] Mon, 08 December 2014 21:13 UTC
avatar Sieve70  is currently offline Sieve70
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2014
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Junior Member
I've uploaded a .dae of my sculpture, and I see a full color preview. I then ordered a printing in color sandstone.

My sculpture contains the following colors: Red, Yellow, Light Blue, and Grey.

All areas printed as shown in the full color preview except the Red area. It basically printed as a "Dark Grey".

I submitted a support request a week again, and still haven't heard back - I see that experts are responding here rather quickly, so I'm coming to you all for help.

FYI - sculpture produced in Blender.

Thanks in advance!

[Updated on: Mon, 08 December 2014 21:16 UTC]

 Topic: Choosing where metal casting "channels" can go.
Choosing where metal casting "channels" can go. [message #104405] Fri, 05 December 2014 18:58 UTC
avatar dkrentz  is currently offline dkrentz
Messages: 7
Registered: September 2010
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Junior Member
I have only printed one model in bronze ( Kosmoceratops, David Krentz Dinosaurs) and I was a little distraught at where the caster chose to place the pour channel -plug- or whatever you want to call it. It was put right in the middle of the model and when polished off it left a giant shiny bald spot which obliterated all the details. I've done lots of bronze casting before, so I understand the reasons for choosing a large area like that, but I would like to at least suggest another spot on the model where it wouldn't be so visible! Is there a wAy to communicate that? Could I just model a channel myself? Would it be ignored?
 Topic: Designing an unusual 3D print
Designing an unusual 3D print [message #104160] Tue, 02 December 2014 16:07 UTC
avatar Hermetres  is currently offline Hermetres
Messages: 4
Registered: July 2014
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Junior Member
Dear all, I'm a university student in charge of developing a biochemical device (reactor) for the depuration of leather factory wastewaters, this is an european project leaded by Ambiental Engineering University of Florence. Part of this device should be colonized with fungi in order to purify water, and they (the fungi) need a biodegradable material with a certain porosity to grow. I am currently developing a tester sample and I'm going to 3D print it in PLA. The tester should be as similar as it can be to a small cube of "low density polyurethane foam" ( http://www.modulor.de/out/pictures/generated/product/1/800_6 00_85/241590_1_pu-filterschaum-schwarz.jpg).
I was thinking about using some algorythm like voronoi, but I'm not sure it is the best option.
What do you think? How would you make the 3D model?

Ps: I'm quite used to nurbs modeling, but not so much in poly. I guess the latter method is more suitable, am I wrong?
 Topic: Applying fix thin walls doesnt work
Applying fix thin walls doesnt work [message #104065] Mon, 01 December 2014 14:12 UTC
avatar Rotbaeckchen  is currently offline Rotbaeckchen
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2014
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Junior Member
Hey everyone,

after uploading my model I saw that my walls are too thin. I fixed this by pressing on the button, I can see the fixed model, with a new price. But when I press on the save changes button, my model appears with the old price and is indicated with thinn walls.

Could you please tell me what is wrong with my model?

Thanks for your help!

Cheers,

Anastasia

  • Attachment: S-fixed.x3d
    (Size: 5.54MB, Downloaded 23 time(s))

 Topic: Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing
Course fully dedicated to 3D design and 3D printing [message #103864] Thu, 27 November 2014 15:02 UTC
avatar MMFAcademy  is currently offline MMFAcademy
Messages: 3
Registered: November 2014
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Want to become an Expert in 3D printing and 3D design?

MyMiniFactory is offering you the chance to learn from industry leading professionals in the first MyMiniFactory Academy course starting end of January 2015.

For more information follow the link : http://myminifactory.com/pages/myminifactory-academy

or email academy@myminifactory.com.

-----
http://www.myminifactory.com/
http://www.facebook.com/myminiF
http://twitter.com/myminifactory

[Updated on: Fri, 28 November 2014 11:14 UTC]

 Topic: Cleaning WRL
Cleaning WRL [message #103366] Fri, 21 November 2014 12:22 UTC
avatar 3DSwim  is currently offline 3DSwim
Messages: 13
Registered: November 2013
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Junior Member
Hi I have a group of objects with textures that I need to e,port as a wrl. However I cant send a wrl to netfabb. Is there a way to clean the wrl without losing the textures?
 Topic: fit pieces inside others
fit pieces inside others [message #102233] Mon, 03 November 2014 11:50 UTC
avatar carlosc  is currently offline carlosc
Messages: 1
Registered: September 2014
Go to all my models
Junior Member
Hi,

I have allready ordered two pieces trhough shapeways and I don't want to mess up again. I need to fit the black piece inside the 3d printed white piece. I need to get as close as possible, so I would like to know wich is the tollerance of the 3d printing with the white, strong and flexible material. So how much space would you let bewttwen the 3d printing piece and my other piece that I already have?

Thankyou very much!


Carlos.

 Topic: Professional Instruction Available
Professional Instruction Available [message #100927] Thu, 09 October 2014 21:17 UTC
avatar lymanbishop  is currently offline lymanbishop
Messages: 60
Registered: August 2011
Go to my shop
Member
I am a mechanical engineer with over 15 years experience in new product design and development. I am an expert with 3D CAD design (Solidworks), 3D printing and manufacturing. I can assist with questions regarding the specifics of design or any issue you may be having at any stage of the process.

I can also log you into my system remotely allowing you to view my screen as I work in order to better guide you and help you understand how to solve any problems you may be facing.

Feel free to reach out with any questions whatsoever.

Thanks,

Lyman

Lyman Bishop
Mechanical Engineer
lymanbishop@star-labs.com
406-407-6995

index.php?t=getfile&id=73826&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=73827&private=0

[Updated on: Thu, 09 October 2014 21:18 UTC]


Lyman Bishop
lymanbishop@star-labs.com
www.star-labs.com
406-407-6995
 Topic: Custom ring app not loading
Custom ring app not loading [message #99020] Sun, 21 September 2014 22:53 UTC
avatar BlueFlame  is currently offline BlueFlame
Messages: 4
Registered: September 2014
Go to my shop
Junior Member
Hello everyone,

I'm new to Shapeways and 3D printing and very excited!

After signing up a week days ago, I created my first ring using the custom ring app. Everything worked fine.
For the past few days I've been wanting to create another design but the default ring doesn't load, ending with the message:

Quote:

"Oops! Something went wrong with the ring creator 3D preview. Please try again."


I've tried in different browser (chrome, firefox, IE), on other computer, on windows 8 and linux (ubuntu). Nothing does it!

A few random times, the loading would stop but nothing would be on the screen and the only way to see the ring is to do a 3D printing check, if the ring has errors, it some how finds the ring and zooms in on it from very far away.

Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
Anyone have solutions?

Thank you!
 Topic: What material I should use?
What material I should use? [message #97684] Wed, 03 September 2014 11:58 UTC
avatar Heallix  is currently offline Heallix
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2013
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Junior Member
I'm making weaponry for a specific line of artist which are BJD hobbiests.

Now i've made this with high detail.

Dimensions should be 230 mm height, 43 mm width, 12 mm depth.

I want to keep the detail high. But the price low. And the material should be paintable. Any tips?

 Topic: Friction fit pieces in FD and FUD
Friction fit pieces in FD and FUD [message #97225] Wed, 27 August 2014 22:57 UTC
avatar Brandroid  is currently offline Brandroid
Messages: 6
Registered: August 2008
Go to all my models
Junior Member
I'm trying to determine how much clearance to leave between parts intended for friction or interference fit in Frosted Detail and Frosted Ultra Detail. I see some information here in the forums, but some of it is conflicting and rarely mentioned are the size of the parts to be fitted together.

My intended design is a post approximately 2 mm in diameter fitting into a hole. The parts will be printed separately, so fusing is not an issue. Think of the connection pegs on injection-molded model kits (or better yet Snap-Tite kits). The fit should be snug enough to hold by itself but I can also apply glue if needed.

I've seen info here suggesting clearances of 0.1 mm all the way up to 0.4 mm. Those values seem a bit large to me considering the printing tolerances in FD and FUD. I'd love to hear from others who have printed pieces like this with success.
 Topic: Belt Buckle Template / Measurements?
Belt Buckle Template / Measurements? [message #96979] Mon, 25 August 2014 01:31 UTC
avatar PeregrineStudios  is currently offline PeregrineStudios
Messages: 347
Registered: September 2012
Go to my shop
Senior Member
Hi all,

I'm looking into starting to design some belt buckles for 3D printing, and would be interested in seeing if there are any templates with the correct measurements of the 'pin' and 'slot' on the back, or at the very least some measurements I could grab (I tried Googling but just wound up with a bunch of pages about measuring your belt size). I could resort to good old-fashioned trial and error, but I'd rather cut that down as much as possible.

Thanks in advance!
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