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Forum: 3D Printing
 Topic: Dimensional Printing Tolerances
Dimensional Printing Tolerances [message #64735] Sun, 24 March 2013 00:55 UTC
avatar borland123D  is currently offline borland123D
Messages: 2
Registered: March 2013
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I've designed a female coupling fitting. I can size the part using my modeling program (Autodesk 123D Design) to provide sufficient fitup clearance, but it is guesswork if I don't know the printing tolerances. How can I be assured that the printed part will be a good fit with the male fitting?

Only the female coupling needs to be printed. For 'Strong and Flexible Plastic", what are the dimensional printing tolerances for a part using that kind of material?

Are the print tolerances the same in x, y, and z axis?

Thanks

.
 Topic: Material Weight per unit?
Material Weight per unit? [message #64497] Wed, 20 March 2013 16:56 UTC
avatar danproulx  is currently offline danproulx
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Hi all
Is there a list of printed weight per unit of volume for the materials?

I found WSF at .93g per cc

I want to create some larger display models which would be carried in luggage etc

Thanks

[Updated on: Wed, 20 March 2013 19:58 UTC]

 Topic: Silver sculpture
Silver sculpture [message #64440] Tue, 19 March 2013 18:09 UTC
avatar monrosm  is currently offline monrosm
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2013
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Hi

I am wanting to print the hood ornament from a Rolls-Royce Motor Car in Premium silver to scale.

In places the ornament has quite thin walls, 1mm at the smallest point. I have two questions to anyone who has any experience with this printing method:

1. Will it be possible to polish the item smooth as shown in some of the jewellery examples

2. Are 1mm wall thicknesses an issue?

It's obviously quite expensive to get it done in Premium silver so I would appreciate any advice before I go ahead with it.

http://www.weebly.com/uploads/1/2/6/2/12629268/4108200_orig.jpg

Thanks

[Updated on: Wed, 20 March 2013 12:29 UTC]

 Topic: Workflow: Sketchup in color on Mac
Workflow: Sketchup in color on Mac [message #64228] Sat, 16 March 2013 00:10 UTC
avatar Quixote  is currently offline Quixote
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2011
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Hoping someone could help me with a Sketchup workflow on my Mac., destined for color printing.

I've spent the last two years making models in Sketchup that I want to put into a Shapeways shop. The sketchup files upload to another site (sculpteo) no problem, and a third site (I.materialise) where they do some scale repair to the file and it is available in 24 hours. I'm using a few of the built-in texture files, but mostly the paint brush tools in Sketchup to color the model faces. And this is where everything seems to fall apart.

I can export the models to .kmz, and get the embedded dae file to view in blender, no problem (preview.app, too), with a texture folder holding about 17 jpgs. I can import the dae into meshlab, but cannot see any of the colors or textures no matter what render options I play with. Exporting to vrml, I can open the file in textedit.app, and see just one texture file referenced. Changing the explicit path and dropping the vrml file into the same folder as the textures, I can zip the folder, and upload to Shapeways. Unfortunately, the model has none of the painted sketchup colors, and many faces are missing (for one set, I have batched all the models together, 7 spaceships the size of a quarter, and only 1 and a half ships show up in the preview, no color).

In Blender, again, the modrl looks great. Clicking export to .x3d, in blender, I get an x3d file that when opened in textedit.app, references 17 variously rescaled jpg files (the textures from Sketchup), but all have explicit file paths (no relative file paths). I've used text edit to change the paths from "something/something/something/darkside.jpg" to just "/darkside.jpg", reimported the file into Blender to test, no problem. Zipped the x3d and jpgs into one file zip, uploaded...."File could not be processed"

</hit head on table>

Emails to customer support have been "sorry, we can't help you fix your model" which I get,
but my MODEL is fine, I just can't get it into their SYSTEM.

Thoughts? Help?

Thank you.

  • Attachment: Set2x3d.zip
    (Size: 889.86KB, Downloaded 80 time(s))

 Topic: Printing orientation and material strength, for SLS
Printing orientation and material strength, for SLS [message #59913] Wed, 09 January 2013 15:35 UTC
avatar thomashuang.net  is currently offline thomashuang.net
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I'm trying to decide print orientation for a local SLS printer for my parts. I'm considering the three main materials PA, PA-GF, and Alumide. I know that the z-axis strength is weaker than the x-y, so a thin ring would be stronger if printed flat instead of standing on its side.

But by how much?

For appearance, and other factors, I prefer to print my parts with the ring standing on its side to hide the stepping lines on other surfaces of my model, but I'm worried that this would weaken the part too much.

I'm looking at the EOS materials data center:
http://eos.materialdatacenter.com/eo/standard/main/compare

PA properties appear to be the same in all axis, except the "strain at break" of the Z (10%) is half of the X-Y (20%). Does this mean it is weaker in the Z-axis, or is it just as strong as the X-Y but half as flexible?

PA-GF shows weaker properties in all values in the Z-axis, but still stronger than PA.

Alumide is completely missing the Z-axis data.

Thanks
 Topic: Making molds for silicone in ceramic, glass thickness.
Making molds for silicone in ceramic, glass thickness. [message #59045] Fri, 21 December 2012 20:43 UTC
avatar mintra  is currently offline mintra
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Hi

I want to make a long thin mould to pour in silicone, I think cereamic would be best as I have made these before on a dimension 3d printer and it speeds up the curing process if you warm the mould up after pouring (and de gassing). and the plastic versions melt.

My question is one about the thickness of the glaze.

It would be useful to know.

a) The thickness of the glaze roughly as I am sure it varies.

b) Do we add this thickness to our model, (Hence make the mould a bit larger to allow for the extra thickness) or does way you submit the job allow for the thickness of the galze.

Thanks in advance

 Topic: 3D printing with amorphous ("glass-like") metal as the end result
3D printing with amorphous ("glass-like") metal as the end result [message #58387] Tue, 11 December 2012 11:09 UTC
avatar Tommy_2Tall  is currently offline Tommy_2Tall
Messages: 113
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Hey there folks!

I just read this article about a new 3D printing method that makes it relatively "easy" to create objects of amorphous metal.
It's not SLS based though: they use electron beams to selectively sinter metal powder instantly and then the sintered material is actively cooled to leave the metal in it's amorphous state.

The benefits seems pretty impressing but I'm guessing that one of those EBM machines don't come cheap..

I'm hoping that Shapeways will have this kind of equipment at hand (or have a subcontractor that can do it) for the more demanding customers at some point in the not too distant future. Very Happy
When you think about it, one of these EBM printers could bridge the gap between consumer/enthusiast products and full blown ready for industry products.
There probably is quite some demand for Shapeways' businessmodel in that business segment? Very Happy

Oh, crap.. now I come of as a sales rep' but I can assure you, I am not affiliated with any of the companies mentioned below.
I'm just a Shapeways-customer that would LOVE to do a "material reference kit" with one of those machines or any prints at all for that matter. Very Happy

Here's the article that got my imagination running wild: 3D printing amorphous steel (Google Translate did a decent job on the article but the title and some other stuff reads like your typical auto-translated garbage)

Here's direct links to the printer supplier and the company that managed to do the amorphous prints with those (EBM) printers.
exmet.se
arcam.se - explanation of the EBM process

Hope you guys find it just as awe-inspiring as I did. Very Happy

 Topic: Is my model ready for print?
Is my model ready for print? [message #57206] Tue, 20 November 2012 22:32 UTC
avatar greengab  is currently offline greengab
Messages: 5
Registered: November 2012
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Hello there,
I'm pretty much ready to send my model to print but I want to know if it has any flaws...
it is made to work as a special binder for my portfolio

if you have something to say about it send me a message
and I'll try to fix it

thanks for your time ppl

 Topic: Reducing the volume of your 3D print
Reducing the volume of your 3D print [message #56307] Mon, 05 November 2012 14:45 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
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I work here
I posted this last week, but haven't had time to post it here on Shapeways till now. I created this Instructable to show how you can reduce the volume in your prints, thus saving $!


I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou
michael@shapeways.com Community Advocate
 Topic: Strong and flexible plastic sublimate?
Strong and flexible plastic sublimate? [message #54113] Sun, 16 September 2012 09:59 UTC
avatar HansWolf  is currently offline HansWolf
Messages: 6
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I got home a sublimation printer and want Strong and flexible plastic sublimate
Can that be?
 Topic: Unglazed Ceramic
Unglazed Ceramic [message #53306] Wed, 29 August 2012 15:28 UTC
avatar brodierstephens  is currently offline brodierstephens
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If I ask for ceramic to be printed unglazed (I'm using it as the substrate for encapsulation by PFTE and don't need glaze) how does that affect the strength of the material?
 Topic: Strong and flexible plastic vs. fine and detailed plastic
Strong and flexible plastic vs. fine and detailed plastic [message #52706] Thu, 16 August 2012 12:27 UTC
avatar Alyra  is currently offline Alyra
Messages: 1
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Hello,

Using Maya 2013 I have created a hollow, torus bracelet shape that I wish to have 3D printed. It is cut in half latitudinally to allow for cleaning. My walls are 2.5mm thick all around and I wish to have my bracelets in black with a relatively smooth, glossy finish. The question I have is which material: strong and flexible plastic or fine and detailed plastic would be best to create a smooth, glossy finish that is durable to wear but not too flexible that it loses its shape when worn?

I would greatly appreciate any help you guys could give me
Kind Regards
-Alyra
 Topic: 3D PRINT SHOW: INNOVATION AT IT'S BEST
3D PRINT SHOW: INNOVATION AT IT'S BEST [message #52350] Tue, 07 August 2012 14:53 UTC
avatar 3DPRINTSHOW  is currently offline 3DPRINTSHOW
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From the 19th October 2012 - 21st October 2012 3D Printshow will be London's first major consumer event for 3D printing, and will demonstrate all applications of the technology ranging from medicine and architecture to conceptual art and design.

We will be showcasing the entire process, from design to print, to educate our visitors on the skills required as well as how to attain them. More than just a demonstration, the show will feature a number of interactive activities ranging from a design bar to a full 3D body scanner, and will offer various opportunities for visitors to engage with 3D print. This will trully be an experience, not to be missed

Full details of the show and its exhibitors are available at 3D Printshow 2012 http://www.3dprintshow.com"

We hope to see you there.

[Updated on: Tue, 07 August 2012 14:57 UTC]

 Topic: Holes
Holes [message #52171] Tue, 31 July 2012 21:35 UTC
avatar bilplat  is currently offline bilplat
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No Message Body

[Updated on: Wed, 01 August 2012 18:40 UTC]

 Topic: Nickel Silver?
Nickel Silver? [message #51638] Sat, 21 July 2012 04:44 UTC
avatar Phxman  is currently offline Phxman
Messages: 111
Registered: June 2012
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The model rail crowd are waiting on you offering nickel silver.
 Topic: Question about detail features & Materials
Question about detail features & Materials [message #51554] Thu, 19 July 2012 09:27 UTC
avatar owlmtmodels  is currently offline owlmtmodels
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Greetings all,
I've done several projects here for other people, but am wanting to do some prototyping of new models before I go into full production and do all the work to do future Injection Molded parts.
My models are fairly planar, 0.020" to 0.040" thick, with various raised details ~0.015" dia and ~0.005" high steps. This sounds like it would comply with FUD, but I am wondering if I can get away with only FD, or even WSF to save cost. Also I would like to have at least pilot holes for locating where to drill holes of 0.015"dia. Some of these pilot holes are directly adjacent to 0.015" dia 0.005" high raised details. Would the materials other than FUD be able to at least locate these?
I have already looked through the links to the various materials sections, but they still are a little vague with these sorts of details. For example;
If the materials specs say 0.1mm, ~0.004" for a detail. Is that pixel size, or complete feature size? Are the step/pixel size smaller than that, or if I make a 0.1mm layer will the next feature to print have to be at least a full 0.1mm higher? If 0.005" step, then second step on top of first, will it have trouble printing the steps that don't land on exactly 0.1mm increments?
Can FD/WD material make layers less than 0.2mm (0.008") thick? Would the 0.005" steps that I have not be printable with a material other than FUD?

Thanks for answering some questions.
Jason
OwlMtModels
 Topic: Newby problem with printable STL from Rhino
Newby problem with printable STL from Rhino [message #51427] Mon, 16 July 2012 15:52 UTC
avatar mtmitchell  is currently offline mtmitchell
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I have uploaded my first model on Shapeways and am excited about giving it a go. The model I uploaded has already been used to make a Z-Corp print on one of our in-house machines, so I'm certain it's closed and with correct normals etc. The detail on the piece is very fine but not thinner than .2mm I believe. It printed on Z-Corp, which isn't too good with very fine bits and only some of the fins on the columns broke off. In SLS, which I understand the Shapeways process is using (correct me if I'm wrong), these details should come out ok.
The Shapeways preview shows all the columns missing, however. I wonder if anyone can help me figure out what went wrong? I have uploaded the stl model.

Shapeways preview: http://images.shapeways.com/model/picture/640x476_634623_494 954_1342452595.jpg


Thanks
M

 Topic: Glass
Glass [message #51380] Sun, 15 July 2012 16:27 UTC
avatar theonlytexaspete  is currently offline theonlytexaspete
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Will there ever be a fully translucent material? I want to create something that looks like glass?
A


A Tribute to Christopher Reeve
www.christopherreeve.co.uk
 Topic: Recyclable material
Recyclable material [message #51305] Sat, 14 July 2012 01:40 UTC
avatar PlainOrb  is currently offline PlainOrb
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It doesn't seem to be workable in the near future, but it would be interesting if there is any recyclable material for 3D printing.


Plain Orb
 Topic: Filtering small objects from STL files
Filtering small objects from STL files [message #50967] Sat, 07 July 2012 11:43 UTC
avatar decapod  is currently offline decapod
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There seems to be some filtering out of small objects based on their volume on upload to shapeways.
(At least for STL which I use)

Here is a test I did reducing a 1mm cube to 0.7, 0.49 and 0.34 sides
Then repeat but leaving the vertical as 1mm
Then added a cylinder and repeated the process.
16 objects should appear.

index.php?t=getfile&id=18291&private=0

The smallest cube and the smallest 3 cylinders were removed during the upload (which gives me an approximate idea of what the volume used to filter out it.

The problem is that all of the 16 objects are valid for printing with FUD, no dimension is less than 0.35mm

You can only get around this by combining manifold objects to increase the volume - someting to be aware of.

I may be able to write a small script for my modelling tool to identify these objects but others may hit this problem too.

Paul

  • Attachment: test.png
    (Size: 97.98KB, Downloaded 399 time(s))

 Topic: Lite Gloss in Silver ...?
Lite Gloss in Silver ...? [message #49436] Tue, 05 June 2012 18:59 UTC
avatar SGDesigns  is currently offline SGDesigns
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Is there any way I can get certain items made in silver but with a lite gloss? Even if its at the same price as Silver Glossy. Can this be requested with certain orders?


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

- Sal G -
My Website
www.sgcustomsilver.com
Facebook Page
www.facebook.com/SGCustomSilver
 Topic: Steel Nickel plating
Steel Nickel plating [message #49352] Sun, 03 June 2012 02:28 UTC
avatar flashgordondesigns  is currently offline flashgordondesigns
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I have many customers interested in nickel plated steel. I know this is an option - does Shapeways plan on offering it in the future? It looks much more like stainless steel than the standard bronze finish.
 Topic: Where to get a flexible 3d print made?
Where to get a flexible 3d print made? [message #48699] Sun, 20 May 2012 06:46 UTC
avatar CameronTexter  is currently offline CameronTexter
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I need to get a rubber 3d print made of this product

https://twitter.com/#!/LynnyLens/status/203278715520692224/p hoto/1/large

There is a rubber mold company who charges $1065 to make the rubber mold and then 29 cents per piece from the mold. So it would be like I'm getting a 3d print for 29 cents. But I need a way to test out the product before I spend that much money.

I need a 3d printing company that offers the best material for making a flexible product for my bellows, which are 2mm thick, which is kind of thick.

This website offered me a $38 or so charge. I was wondering what my options are as far as finding a good material, and a better price.

Let me know. Thank you!
 Topic: Any news on dyed polished SF ?
Any news on dyed polished SF ? [message #48231] Fri, 11 May 2012 02:26 UTC
avatar pdb  is currently offline pdb
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cant find any posts after december last year on the dyed polished SF.

was wondering if there were any developments?


boop
 Topic: FUD not available for specific model - why?
FUD not available for specific model - why? [message #47788] Thu, 03 May 2012 00:12 UTC
avatar mvdm  is currently offline mvdm
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I uploaded a simple model [http://www.shapeways.com/model/558552/turning-tool-v1.html] which as far as I can tell respects the design rules for FUD. In particular, the model has walls of 0.4 mm thick, and does not exceed the maximum dimensions.

Yet, FUD is not available as a material choice. WSF and others are. How can I find out what requirement my model violated?

Thanks! Obviously, I'm new to this, so any suggestions are much appreciated.

Edit: after some playing around I discovered that there seems to be some kind of minimum size -- adding some components to the part causes FUD to become available, even though the wall thicknesses etc. have not changed.

[Updated on: Thu, 03 May 2012 02:07 UTC]

 Topic: Spiral Theatre 3D Model
Spiral Theatre 3D Model [message #47582] Fri, 27 April 2012 16:15 UTC
avatar nchelliah  is currently offline nchelliah
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Hi, Just looking for some help!

I have tried uploading my theatre model to be printed. I originally sent a earlier version of this model which uploaded fine - however it was rejected as some of the spirals were too thin to be printed. I went back into the model to thicken up some of the spirals and re-uploaded it. However it then came back saying it would not print because it was not manifold.

I checked the model in netfabb, repaired it, put the model back into rhino and checked all the meshes there too. They all seem perfect - no holes, no degenerate faces, no naked edges, no duplicates, no non-maniofold edges, all normals facing the same direction - so according to all my programs there is nothing wrong.

Could anybody please help? I have included my 3D model, if anyone is able to take a look for me it would be massively appreciated.

Thanks,
Natalie

 Topic: Larger than max size
Larger than max size [message #47192] Wed, 18 April 2012 21:43 UTC
avatar xpeters  is currently offline xpeters
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I searched the forum and could not find any info on gluing or printing in segments.

I am working on a model for a client who wants an 8" tall polished strong and flexible print to make a mold from. It is a very simple shape, pretty much a rectangular prism with surface details. I just noticed that the model is bigger than the printable area for a polished part.

Is it a bad idea to print in two pieces and glue them together? the piece is completely shelled to cut down on materials and I'm afraid the sides could warp and have an obvious seam.

The alternative is to just not get the polished plastic, but it is a strongly preferred surface finish.
 Topic: Jewelry design - holes for jump rings
Jewelry design - holes for jump rings [message #46614] Sat, 07 April 2012 01:06 UTC
avatar babelglyph  is currently offline babelglyph
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I'm looking to get some pendant earrings printed and I'm trying to decide on the best way to join them to a pair of hoop earrings. I would like to simply print a hole (about 1.2mm diameter) through the solid length of the material. I would then pass a jump ring through the hole to connect it to the hoop. Would there be a problem printing this in metal? Would polishing be problematic with such a small hole?

Ideally, I would like to use polished stainless steel for these earrings, as the model doesn't lend itself to hollowness and silver would be cost-prohibitive.

ETA: I've ended up with a new model that seems pretty sound to my eye. I went ahead and placed my order for the earrings in both stainless steel and alumide. This topic is a bit pointless now - sorry about that!

[Updated on: Sat, 07 April 2012 01:53 UTC]

 Topic: Best material for "burnout"?
Best material for "burnout"? [message #46301] Sun, 01 April 2012 23:12 UTC
avatar Tigermoth  is currently offline Tigermoth
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Just wondering if anyone uses SW models to then invest, burnout then cast?
I took a FUD model to my local casting house, there were issues in the burnout process that left porosity in the final piece...he told me he had successfully cast models from SW previously but that it had been WSF.
Just wondering if anyone has tried other materials, personally I would like my models to have a higher level of detail than WSF, but FUD is proven to be risky.
..or maybe its better to simply get a Silver or Stainless master and silicone mold it straight from there?
Interested to hear what other casters have tried...
thanks
 Topic: Waterproofing Sandstone
Waterproofing Sandstone [message #46014] Mon, 26 March 2012 21:07 UTC
avatar ben@benlehrer.com  is currently offline ben@benlehrer.com
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I'm creating a serving plate that I'd like to make in sandstone. Is there a way to waterproof it or seal it so that I can serve food with it and wash it?

With excitement,
Ben
 Topic: Which materials are water-tight \ suitable for immersion in water?
Which materials are water-tight \ suitable for immersion in water? [message #45468] Wed, 14 March 2012 02:18 UTC
avatar Agent24  is currently offline Agent24
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I was thinking of making a 3D printed part out of plastic to replace a broken part of a valve in a water tank.

The water is not used for drinking but the part would need to be able to stand being immersed in cold water and not degrade and also it couldn't have water seeping through it or such.

Are any of the materials here suitable for such use?
 Topic: Ceramic Glaze on Part Bottom
Ceramic Glaze on Part Bottom [message #43594] Tue, 07 February 2012 04:03 UTC
avatar JamesSaunders  is currently offline JamesSaunders
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I'm preparing to print my first ceramic part, and I have a question to hopefully inform my design a bit. Tip #8 on the design rules page for ceramics indicates that parts should have a clear "bottom" to ensure they are glazed correctly. Does this mean the bottom doesn't get glazed? Does the area of this base get subtracted from the print price? If I print a 10 cm x 10 cm x 10 cm cube, is the surface area 600 cm^2 or only 500 cm^2 (subtracting on face area for the "bottom")?
 Topic: Arrangement of multiple parts
Arrangement of multiple parts [message #42491] Sun, 22 January 2012 12:26 UTC
avatar RicheyRose  is currently offline RicheyRose
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Hiya, finally finished tweaking my Boris and eliminating thin walls etc. I was wondering if someone could tell me what the best way to arrange the parts in the final file would be. It'll be printed in WSF polished.

The body, legs and bike are all to be printed as a single part. I'm guessing wheels laid flat, same with the bits sprue? What about the body / legs. Laid flat along the same axis as the wheels, or will it be ok standing up (the legs move)

index.php?t=getfile&id=13735&private=0

Cheers!

 Topic: Minimum Dimensions
Minimum Dimensions [message #41550] Mon, 09 January 2012 22:06 UTC
avatar AyameDeude  is currently offline AyameDeude
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Hello fellow Shapies!

I submitted an order for one of my models so I could take some photos and I received a "dimensions too small" notice about it.

As far as I can tell, the dimensions of both earrings fit in the minimum 65mm total. Though, admittedly, only when accounting for both earrings.

Link to model: http://www.shapeways.com/model/426629/minecraft_earrings__gr ass_.html?gid=ug

Is there something I'm missing or is it a mistake? I can increase the size of the earrings easily enough, but I really like the current size of them and am worried that it will come out gaudy.

Note: the original design was two cubes of 16x16x16mm each. i recently ugraded them to be 22x22x22mm in hopes that it would fulfill the 65mm minimum.

[Updated on: Tue, 10 January 2012 00:11 UTC]

 Topic: Material weight "White Detail"
Material weight "White Detail" [message #41412] Sat, 07 January 2012 22:28 UTC
avatar jconradt  is currently offline jconradt
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Hi Shapeways and community,

I would like to know the specific weight (per cm^3) of your material "white detail". Most others (such as White, Strong and Flexible; and Frosted Detail) I have found in the material data sheets (0.93g/cm^3 and 1.02g/cm^3 respectively), but I can't find that info for "white detail" (fullcure 830). Even the "objet" web pages seem to ignore that.

Thanks for any information!

Jorg Conradt

[Updated on: Sat, 07 January 2012 22:40 UTC]

 Topic: Large Hollow Object - Sandstone
Large Hollow Object - Sandstone [message #41340] Fri, 06 January 2012 22:48 UTC
avatar VeeeGeeee  is currently offline VeeeGeeee
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Hi Smile

I am trying to create a large hollow sandstone object (it will be full color). I want to make full use of the print size and my model nears 20cm cubed - and is hollow.

My questions - How thin can I realistically make the walls of this model.

Is the price calculation on this model taking into account the hollowness?

Any other tips that I can glean?

Many thanks,

Matt

Heres the link

http://www.shapeways.com/model/430152/d91c75a243c0d867a8e6ff f68136fa64/chaossphere_20cm.html?gid=ug
 Topic: Stainless Steel Accuracy?
Stainless Steel Accuracy? [message #41111] Tue, 03 January 2012 12:17 UTC
avatar thomashuang.net  is currently offline thomashuang.net
Messages: 84
Registered: September 2011
Go to my shop
Member
Hello,
I haven't printed stainless steel before, and have questions about accuracy.

I have a coupling nut and a screw, and I need to make a SS hexagonal cap that fits on top of the nut, and goes between the nut and screw.

according to the design rules, the accuracy of SS is 2mm. Is this 2mm in either direction?

The width from side to side of the nut is 12.8mm, and I need the cap to fit snugly. I was thinking to compensate for this variation, I would taper the inside of the cap over a height of 3-4mm, from about 12.3mm at the top to 14.3mm at the bottom. Would this work or do I need greater tolerances?

This cap is one end of a Z-bracket sort of thing. How does orientation affect SS printing? Does it make a difference if the Z is on it's side or upright?

Thanks

http://thomashuang.net/products/nps75/pack-a.jpg
http://www.thomashuang.net/test/sscap.gif

[Updated on: Tue, 03 January 2012 12:22 UTC]

 Topic: SOLVED: W x D x H wrong when making a model with Image Popper
SOLVED: W x D x H wrong when making a model with Image Popper [message #40895] Thu, 29 December 2011 17:26 UTC
avatar TheDutchOwner  is currently offline TheDutchOwner
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2011
Go to my shop
Junior Member
SOLVED: I figured it out already. NVM!

[Updated on: Thu, 29 December 2011 17:28 UTC]

 Topic: Printing with Solder and other conductives
icon3.gif  Printing with Solder and other conductives [message #40882] Thu, 29 December 2011 08:42 UTC
avatar Nasa_Nate   is currently offline Nasa_Nate
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2011
Go to all my models
Junior Member
It seems easy to me... Can shapeways print with solder? It looks like silver is the only conductive material you have, though way $$$ for me. Copper would be great to, but the solder idea seems so lo temp it would be easy. THink of bein able to print 3d electrical paths... =)

Thanks! Very Happy -Nate
 Topic: Best Software to generate models for 3D color printing
Best Software to generate models for 3D color printing [message #39909] Wed, 07 December 2011 07:59 UTC
avatar Jeffrey V. Cook  is currently offline Jeffrey V. Cook
Messages: 8
Registered: October 2011
Go to my shop
Junior Member
I've uploaded 10+ models and successfully printed them in the materials WSF (+ 3 other colors), FD, Alumide, and Sandstone. Now I want to use the Full Color Sandstone (FCS) material.

Through trial and error, email with customer support, and checking forum threads, I have deduced that OBJ files with color profiles are not supported for FCS printing. If I am wrong about this, someone please correct me, to stop me from expending some serious future effort.

It seems I must use VRML2 or X3D to print to FCS. And since I'm not making headway exporting my OBJ files to proper VRML2/X3D using SketchUp/AccuTrans3D/MeshLab/Blender, I'd like some recommendations on the 3D modeling software I should use to achieve my objective.

Q1: If you have successfully printed a model using Full Color Sandstone, please tell me what software and format was used.

For my application, the 3D modeling software must support some type of user-specified computation to transform an imported model.

Q2: If you have an opinion on which software/format is best suited for my purpose (3ds Max, Maya, Rhino, ...) please tell me.

Thanks...Jeff

P.S. Up til now, I've used SketchUp Pro 8 to generate all of my models, exporting to either STL or OBJ. I've had to write support software and use/modify various SketchUp plug-ins, because the patterns in my models are computed, based on Wolfram's Automated Cellular Automaton (see attached photo of a model printed in FD). I've tried numerous times to export VRML from SketchUp, following suggestions given in the forums, to no avail. Models that successfully export to OBJ format, when exported to VRML format, are either corrupted or incomplete or just wrong, when examined using AccuTrans3D, Blender, or MeshLab. Same with OBJ files exported to VRML from the latter 3 programs. This is why I am asking for help. If you know some magic to make SketchUp or these other programs export proper VRML, please advise.


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