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Forum: It arrived!
 Topic: Two geometric curiosities and a scientific apparatus!
Two geometric curiosities and a scientific apparatus! [message #4060] Sun, 26 April 2009 04:53 UTC
avatar Ushanka  is currently offline Ushanka
Messages: 104
Registered: April 2009
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Hooray! I received three things recently! The first two were gifts for my brother, Bathsheba Grossman's gyroid, which is absolutely gorgeous.
Sorry about the low quality, but I needed to share the excitement!

Second is a dodecadodecahedron of my own design. Again, apologies for the poor picture quality.

The third thing was a treat for myeslf, a Besselheim Plate. This is perhaps my favorite apparatus from the incredible pseudoscience program "Look Around You". Hooray!

 Topic: Sculpture in WS&F
Sculpture in WS&F [message #4047] Sat, 25 April 2009 00:02 UTC
avatar thehumanhive  is currently offline thehumanhive
Messages: 16
Registered: January 2009
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It arrived!

Here are pictures of a few sculptures available in my shop (thehumanhive).

First, a level 2 sponge. Nothing fancy. Fairly inexpensive. They do require some cleaning to remove loose power from the 2mm holes.

Second, a torus with a Mbius-like "twist". The model is cut in half all the way around but remains a single surface.

And, third, a compound of five tetrahedra. I love this model. It is large (baseball-ish) and the sharp edges print very nicely.

The Human Hive

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[Updated on: Sat, 25 April 2009 01:26 UTC]

 Topic: level 5 sierpinski !
level 5 sierpinski ! [message #3845] Wed, 08 April 2009 04:21 UTC
avatar wanderbreed  is currently offline wanderbreed
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2009
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Found out I got this late yesterday while leaving work.

I enjoyed one of the two all evening, showing it off, discussing it with friends, wondering what color to make it. Night falls, my nite-light is a blacklight, and I realize that compared to every other white in the room, wsf is pale. It does not reflect. No idea if this is texture or material related..

So today, I fixed that:
This is a very poor cell-phone picture of the newly fluorescent level 5 sierpinski being held near a backlight.

 Topic: Cars 50mm & 75mm
Cars 50mm & 75mm [message #3827] Tue, 07 April 2009 12:43 UTC
avatar PeterHermans  is currently offline PeterHermans
Messages: 39
Registered: September 2008
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After spending too many hours fixing the unfindable inverted normals issues they arrived cars! I'll have to have a little more patience for the metal version though Smile.

Unfortunately they did not all came out as nice because of the printing orientation. But I'll take it.
For more info about the problems and the design see this topic.
 Topic: More N-Train bits
More N-Train bits [message #3432] Thu, 19 March 2009 21:22 UTC
avatar daviesbobuk  is currently offline daviesbobuk
Messages: 46
Registered: February 2009
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I have had a number of new bits arrive





The pantograph in the last picture is very small and ended up rougher than I hoped, but this is a learning exercise. (13mm long)

BobD N-Train
 Topic: Infinite Love, Voronoi Dodec, Spiral Cage, Flexmesh mini, Interlocked Cubes
Infinite Love, Voronoi Dodec, Spiral Cage, Flexmesh mini, Interlocked Cubes [message #3350] Thu, 12 March 2009 20:00 UTC
avatar robert  is currently offline robert
Messages: 413
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Hi All,

My order arrived!

index.php?t=getfile&id=335&private=0 l

index.php?t=getfile&id=336&private=0 _.html

index.php?t=getfile&id=337&private=0 l



 Topic: N-Train 2nd go
N-Train 2nd go [message #3059] Fri, 20 February 2009 14:56 UTC
avatar daviesbobuk  is currently offline daviesbobuk
Messages: 46
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Well here I go again. 2 items in one to make up a sample of an N Gauge BVA steel wagon


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BobD N-Train
 Topic: Japanese Softbank Phone Cover
Japanese Softbank Phone Cover [message #2491] Fri, 16 January 2009 11:28 UTC
avatar madox  is currently offline madox
Messages: 127
Registered: September 2008
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Can we attached more files per message please Smile

Just a small simple print I did as a result of fiddling with my caliper next to my bed (don't know why it was there...).

Nice to see the WS&F material is so translucent...

More photos on my blog post -cover/

Confession of the thin wall hack for pzich there too Smile
 Topic: New Nu in White Detail, and an oil drum in SWF
New Nu in White Detail, and an oil drum in SWF [message #2384] Wed, 07 January 2009 00:31 UTC
avatar bvicarious  is currently offline bvicarious
Messages: 87
Registered: July 2008
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All pictures can be seen here:

Just got my second version of my Nu model in yesterday (design page: ml) and I'm pleased to report that it arrived safe and sound and came out extremely well.

The first Nu had its arms outstretched because I had planned on casting it in a soft flexible rubber with an armature that would allow the arms and legs to be bent to any position. That also happened to throw its center of balance off a wee bit and as a result it would tip over if not carefully placed. With the arms down and a minor adjustment to the feet, it is now able to stand freely and will make a nice addition to my Shapeways shop.

The white detail material has a very nice satin finish to it and absorbs a good amount of light to give it a soft translucent appearance from the sub-surface scattering.

The other object in this order is an oil drum that 'll be making a mold of to pour oil drum-shaped candles. Once that's done I can turn it upside down and use it as a pen holder. I also made a version with a top that pops off and a half-height drum. The only thing left to do is test if it the lid fits tightly in the top.

The oil drum was printed in the SWF material and for the most part looks great. There's hardly any fine detail in the object, but aside from the gritty texture I find that the resolution is appropriate for geometric objects like this.

In picture 4 you can see the artifacts from the orientation of the oil drum during printing. I can probably lightly sand that away, but I think spraying it with clear acrylic should cover it up well enough.

One thing I like about SWF is that it feels very sturdy and durable, and is opaque. I haven't tried yet, but it looks like it is easy to paint.

I brushed the model with acrylic cement (methyl methacrylate) but it either doesn't have the same effect as cyanoacrylate or I can't tell the difference if it does. The walls are 1-2 mm thick and it seems plenty strong as is, so I'll try out superglue when I'm done with it.

[UPDATE: If you saw my SWF material testing video here, I tried bending it that way after applying and letting dry the methyl methacrylate and it snapped right in half. So it makes it more rigid and less flexible.]

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[Updated on: Wed, 07 January 2009 01:02 UTC]

 Topic: i arrived
i arrived [message #2031] Tue, 18 November 2008 12:54 UTC
avatar kanu  is currently offline kanu
Messages: 3
Registered: October 2008
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My first object arrived. A nearly exact copy of my astral body.

I did this in to parts, the hairs are a seperat object with a pin in the center, therefor i bolted a hole in my cute backhead. Sadly i messed up alittle with the size so i can't get the hairs completly onto the body.

Nevertheless i love my self.

And from now on i play borad games with my personalized pawn.

Next thing todo ... pawning my family... although I am not so sure if they are that lucky if the end up looking something like this one.

[Updated on: Tue, 18 November 2008 13:15 UTC]

 Topic: Miss Noodle
Miss Noodle [message #1833] Thu, 30 October 2008 21:05 UTC
avatar Fingers  is currently offline Fingers
Messages: 29
Registered: September 2008
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My sculpture arrived a while back but I've been traveling and then busy with work stuff (Buy Left 4 Dead, it pays my bills).

Anyway, it turned out great! Any detail that's in the model is there in the final product, the lines are sharp and well defined. I took a few photos and added them to the design page.

The material is interesting, it's essentially white plastic but it has a "wood grain" appearance on some surfaces (anything rounded and near horizontal, like the top of the head and the right elbow) and a "frosted" texture with subtle horizontal lines on others. The tapered stand looks like it's made of thin, stacked disks. I think it was fabricated in an upright position (as uploaded). If I were to paint this, I'd sand it first and/or use multiple coats with sanding in between.

The whole thing seems very robust, it would probably be just fine designing with 1mm minimum thickness instead of the 2mm that I used as a guide. When I have some free time I'll do more experiments.

[Updated on: Thu, 30 October 2008 21:06 UTC]

 Topic: Share the excitement of your arrived model with the rest of our community
Share the excitement of your arrived model with the rest of our community [message #1425] Thu, 25 September 2008 12:54 UTC
avatar RalphVdB  is currently offline RalphVdB
Messages: 322
Registered: July 2008
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Hi Cool

This is a place where you can show off,and share pictures of your arrived models to the rest of our community!

Greetz Ralph

[Updated on: Thu, 25 September 2008 12:55 UTC]

Shapeways International Customer Service Manager
Forum: Post Production Techniques
 Topic: Best Material For jewelry shiny gold Look
Best Material For jewelry shiny gold Look [message #114096] Sat, 18 April 2015 19:32 UTC
avatar stardustfilmstudio  is currently offline stardustfilmstudio
Messages: 1
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Can anyone please tell me what material is best for making a piece of jewelry look shiny gold (without paying the 14k gold price?)

I tried the "Polished Gold Stainless Steel" and it is awful. Dull and pitted. I would never use for jewelry.

Please someone help with this material question.

Thanks so much,

 Topic: WSF post prod & sealing - this works great.
WSF post prod & sealing - this works great. [message #114055] Fri, 17 April 2015 23:56 UTC
avatar ChristianH  is currently offline ChristianH
Messages: 1
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Hey all.
There are many threads here about how to treat and seal WSF and here is yet another one.
This method works great and is easy to apply.

Many have recommended CA glue for sealing WSF but I didn't bother with it due to the very sticky nature of CA and this is a less sticky option.

Buy some 2-component 30 min epoxy. HobbyTown USA carries this one (Slow-Cure 30min)

Mix 1 part resin and 1 part hardener and mix well. Then dilute this 1:1 with denatured alcohol and mix until the viscosity is almost like water.

Apply with a brush. It goes on very easy and soaks into the porous surface. Set aside and let cure. The test piece took a few hours to cure properly. With exact proportions it might be faster. It dries hard and the surface can then be wet sanded with 300 or even 600 grit paper to smooth the surface. Finish off with 2000 for a superbly smooth surface.

[Updated on: Fri, 17 April 2015 23:57 UTC]

 Topic: Thinking of making my own munny type toy/character
Thinking of making my own munny type toy/character [message #113972] Thu, 16 April 2015 17:25 UTC
avatar jonathan35  is currently offline jonathan35
Messages: 1
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I have some characters that I want to print in 3d. that shouldn't be a problem, and I also found a starter for a munny.

Looking at the cost of 3d printing it wouldn't be practical to sell them at shows. So I thought I could 3d print one larger, then make a mold of it, and make some that I could sell.

1st, is this a viable option?

2, what material should I print it to then make a cast of the figure?

3. Any cast/mold suggestions (there are a bunch out there).

4. What material would be best for this type of figure (I think Munnies are made of Laytex)

I don't think I could cast it to be hollow like the Munny is, but I may make it smaller.

thank you in advance.
 Topic: What brands of primer/paint are good for painting on plastic
What brands of primer/paint are good for painting on plastic [message #113107] Tue, 31 March 2015 18:07 UTC
avatar hunterfine1  is currently offline hunterfine1
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Hey everyone,

Looking for specific brands from an art store of primer/paint to get.

I'm painting miniatures - and don't want to lose detail on the heads with a thick coat.

And printing on the "white strong & flexible plastic" from shapeways.

Does anyone have recommendation on what Primers (preferably white),

And what type/brands of paint I should use.

 Topic: Looking for a comparison between Silver Premium and Polished
Looking for a comparison between Silver Premium and Polished [message #111896] Mon, 09 March 2015 20:29 UTC
avatar J999  is currently offline J999
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I know the Premium Finishig (Sterling silver) and is very beautiful and shiny. But urgently I'm looking possibly a photo in high res. of a ring, but always in with Polished.
My ring is already in production and I chose the polished finishing, but I would not it's too raw

 Topic: Making Nylon SLS Waterproof
Making Nylon SLS Waterproof [message #109703] Thu, 05 February 2015 14:29 UTC
avatar franpadormo  is currently offline franpadormo
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I have printed an almost spherical object designed to hold water out of nylon SLS. It is formed of two hemispheres which screw together. I now wish to make it waterproof. I was previously advised to use a spray-on varnish or paint-on epoxy, but would like to hear from the community if there are any more alternatives! Ideally, the interior surface would be very smooth, and I would like to try and avoid pooling of the substance as it dries. Also, the interior seam is an issue....

So, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 Topic: Multiple color dyes on one WSF part?
Multiple color dyes on one WSF part? [message #109571] Tue, 03 February 2015 18:30 UTC
avatar john.mauriello  is currently offline john.mauriello
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Has anyone messed around with tie dyes using White Strong and Flexible? I would imagine that it would just end up being a muddy brown from all of the dye colors mixing together, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Another possible alternative is multiple 'stripes' of color added to one WSF part. For example, can you dip half your model in red dye and then the other half in orange dye? What about getting a color gradient (dark red to medium red to light red all the way to pink)? Coudl you just submerge the part for more time as you go up? Let me know if you guys have any experience with this. I wanted to try it before I accidentally ruined a part by attempting it :P

[Updated on: Tue, 03 February 2015 18:30 UTC]

 Topic: Dye-sublimation on ceramic
Dye-sublimation on ceramic [message #101513] Mon, 20 October 2014 20:08 UTC
avatar mdurli  is currently offline mdurli
Messages: 10
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Hello, do you know of a service I can send objects to and have a picture or a design dye-sublimated on it?
I'm interested in ceramics particularly (surface for printing will be flat) , and I would like to achieve the same quality of ImageSnap ( ceramic tiles. But I don't want to create tiles of course...


 Topic: Recommendations for Ceramic Media for WSF
Recommendations for Ceramic Media for WSF [message #100222] Fri, 03 October 2014 11:02 UTC
avatar marchena35  is currently offline marchena35
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Hello! I'm having a rethink of my production plans. I believe it will be best now if I polish the raw WSF in my workshop. I have a tumbler I can use and I am investigating different ceramic media. I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for the the best type to use for parts which are 2 - 3 cm-ish.

I've found this online 0/15352.htm and I wonder if it might be suitable?

And - if possible, could anyone recommend any other ceramic media suppliers in Europe?

Any help much appreciated!

 Topic: Strong & flexible polished
Strong & flexible polished [message #99452] Mon, 29 September 2014 21:09 UTC
avatar aleksandar  is currently offline aleksandar
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I wondered if strong & flexible polished material can be re-sized by thermal treat for instance? I have a shape similar to frame which size I'd like to shrink with less than mm...


product deisgn, visualisation & photography
 Topic: Micro airbrushing
Micro airbrushing [message #99064] Mon, 22 September 2014 19:14 UTC
avatar milieucrafts  is currently offline milieucrafts
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Saw some interesting painting threads in the Post Production Techniques section, but didn't see much about using Micro airbrushing. Seems like it would be ideal for small crafts items. Anyone ever tried it ? If so...what were the results ?
 Topic: Shapeways Insiders!
Shapeways Insiders! [message #95483] Wed, 06 August 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar Youknowwho4eva  is currently offline Youknowwho4eva
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I work here
Do you think you have what it takes to be a Shapeways Insider? Do you have helpful knowledge of materials? Do you want more from your shop?

Well than we're looking for you! Read more here on the blog and be sure to fill out the form linked here.

I learned a long time ago the wisest thing I can do is be on my own side, be an advocate for myself and others like me. -Maya Angelou Community Advocate
 Topic: Polished Nickel Steel Jewelry - How to Avoid Snagging on Clothing
Polished Nickel Steel Jewelry - How to Avoid Snagging on Clothing [message #90552] Tue, 27 May 2014 22:16 UTC
avatar 43Layers  is currently offline 43Layers
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I just made some 3D printed tie bars out of polished nickel steel. They look fantastic; however, the material is still a little bit rough. I worry that the material will snag my tie and ruin it. Any recommendations for smoothing out the finish of polished steel pieces?

 Topic: Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish
Coating Sandstone, Painting TD/FUD/FD, Nail Polish [message #86510] Fri, 21 March 2014 06:46 UTC
avatar Sonnet34  is currently offline Sonnet34
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Hello! I was wondering about multiple post-production techniques. I have two things that I'm working on but many questions as to how to go about doing so. If I could get some help - that would be great!

1) I am looking to print a model in full-color sandstone. I want to cover it with a clear coat for protection/make it a little more smooth - is there some special type of varnish/spray that I should buy?

2) I am also trying to make a model that I'd ideally want to be printed in a translucent-type material and then painted. I want to make it in transparent detail as I read that this is the material that will be the clearest. Ideally, I want to be able to paint parts of the model and leave other parts unpainted (and retain its clear properties). What is the easiest way to do this and which material?
I read that TD will have to be polished (with sandpaper?) and then painted.
FD/FUD is less transparent and will be covered with a wax-like material when I get it, so I'd have to clean it off. But I read that a lot of the ways to clean it causes the FD/FUD to discolor and become white.
I am also a bit lost here regarding primer and types of paint.
I think in the end, TD would be best for my application here? How do I go about painting TD?

3) Can I use nail polish for any kind of the painting? I have clear nail polish and regular nail polish in many, many colors already on hand...

Thank you so much in advance and please help if you can - I'm totally new to 3D printing!
 Topic: Which glue?
Which glue? [message #85214] Fri, 21 February 2014 17:07 UTC
avatar paolomanenti  is currently offline paolomanenti
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Hi everyone,

I would like to ask your help about which glue can be used to paste Strong and Flexible Plastic to Plexiglass (polymethylmethacrylate)?

The glue I have used seemed ok, but after some months it has expanded all around and now it is visible. It is an ugly effect, because the glue is yellow, so at the base of the toys we can see this yellow spot.

Any advice? Thank you so much!
 Topic: Getting your bronze to be shiny
Getting your bronze to be shiny [message #85101] Wed, 19 February 2014 19:03 UTC
avatar Arcathorn  is currently offline Arcathorn
Messages: 71
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Anyone have a good post production technique with bronze to get a shinier finish?

"Do or do not there is no try"-Yoda
 Topic: Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish.
Ceramics: gloss glazing vs. satin finish. [message #83121] Mon, 13 January 2014 14:08 UTC
avatar RestoToyForce  is currently offline RestoToyForce
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Hi all,

Just wondering which type of finish would be smoother in ceramics; gloss or satin?



Resto Toy Force
 Topic: Drilling after printing
Drilling after printing [message #82353] Wed, 01 January 2014 08:30 UTC
avatar DesignbyDalton  is currently offline DesignbyDalton
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Hello fellow designers,

Has any one drilled any of the materials after printing? I'm thinking about drilling a hole in a full color sandstone print and was looking for some input. The hole would be 1/4 inch and go about 2.5 inches until exiting the opposite side. Any input would be much appreciated.

Send an email to for a free quote on any custom orders.
 Topic: Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish
Solvent based paint compatibility with Frosteed Detail finish [message #80895] Mon, 09 December 2013 22:10 UTC
avatar atsfsd26  is currently offline atsfsd26
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This is my first post to the forum.
I have just received my first Shapeways product (see CAD drawing below or attached) made in Frosted Detail. I'm totally blown away with the quality of the finish and following a gentle sand with some 400 grit Wet & dry paper, the surface finish is totally smooth.

My next step is to paint the model.

I will be painting with either acetone based paint, or solvent (thinners) based paint or if necessary acrylic (water or alcohol) based paint.
I'd prefer to use one of the first two types.
Are there any compatibility issues with this material and solvents, please?
In fact are there compatibilty issues with any type of paint.
Does the material need washing etc before applying paint (like resin cast material does to remove mold release agent).
Thanks in advance for any help

 Topic: FUD and Acetone- a surprise result.
FUD and Acetone- a surprise result. [message #77643] Sun, 27 October 2013 20:52 UTC
avatar dcyale  is currently offline dcyale
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Not wanting to do laundry this afternoon I decided to do a little experiment on how acetone affects FUD. I took six 1/87 scale tables that all had the same print orientation, and were printed as the same model sprued together, and soaked them for different times in acetone, then photographed the results both with a regular camera, and my kid's "Bionic Eye" microscopic camera. The full results and a bunch of pictures

are HERE.

For those of you that read the last page first, at 50 minutes the table started to warp slightly, but I did not observe any detrimental effect on detail. HOWEVER, the 50 minute table was quite a bit more flexible than the control that was not soaked at all.

I left one table in over two hours. As expected it was ruined, and three of the legs broke easily, but it was really flexible. I could bend a wire 180 degrees without it breaking. It was more flexible than SWF.

The 20 minute table was slightly more flexible, and it appeared ready to paint.

I suspect, and I don't think I'll be running a controlled experiment to find out, that a 20 minutes acetone soak not only cleans the FUD model, but makes it a little less brittle and a little bit tougher, due to it being slightly more flexible.

I will have to check in a few days to see if it remains more flexible.
 Topic: Best Material to Paint
Best Material to Paint [message #74178] Wed, 04 September 2013 18:07 UTC
avatar sirchristopher2  is currently offline sirchristopher2
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If I am going to paint by hand with acrylic paints, what is the best material to purchase?

 Topic: in house finishing
in house finishing [message #73774] Tue, 27 August 2013 23:33 UTC
avatar elfenomeno  is currently offline elfenomeno
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Dear all,my name is Hussein dembel sow,I am young entrepreneur and I am currently setting up a company that will design trophy and medals for a large type of customers like sports events,corporate gift....
However to get cost low we would like to set up a finishing division that will take care of that,however we don't know much about the process and we would like to push it very far and to do it better than shapeways would.
I am thinking about having a little team that will take raw model and polish them,dye them or paint them.
I am looking for advice on the most commonly used process and how you would do it.
 Topic: Plastic Injection molding in the USA
icon5.gif  Plastic Injection molding in the USA [message #73251] Sun, 18 August 2013 23:56 UTC
avatar ihobbs7  is currently offline ihobbs7
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I have a good .stl file that I would like to mass produce, does anyone know of a decent
plastic injection company in the US. I would like to keep it within our borders if at all
 Topic: How to stop color from WSF wearing off?
How to stop color from WSF wearing off? [message #72220] Fri, 26 July 2013 03:24 UTC
avatar AEAJewelry  is currently offline AEAJewelry
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Has anyone found a good sealant to coat WSF pieces to stop the color from wearing off? This is for jewelry...

PAINTED BY HAND/BRUSH [message #72216] Thu, 25 July 2013 23:42 UTC
avatar jillm502  is currently offline jillm502
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I'm just it possible to do fine, hand painted detail on this. Is it plastic, metal or paper? I'm looking for a fine china, look, lots of detail, glossy finish. Which material should I use. Any suggestions on getting the right materials.....
 Topic: Polishing Methods for WSF
Polishing Methods for WSF [message #71919] Sun, 21 July 2013 05:01 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
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I've read several threads on how best to polish a WSF print, including white putty and liquid resin, but I was wondering if anyone who has had experience with both can compare the advantages and disadvantages of each for me? Also, has anyone had experience using polishing wax on WSF? Thanks.
 Topic: Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw?
Thinnly Waxing SWF-Printed Screw? [message #71885] Fri, 19 July 2013 23:25 UTC
avatar WorldWiz  is currently offline WorldWiz
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My model includes a SWF-printed screw and screw hole. If I apply a thin layer of polishing wax on the screw (attached), do you think that will that reduce the likelihood of damage from friction, while still retaining enough friction for the screw to grip tightly? Thanks.

  • Attachment: Screw.stl
    (Size: 112.97KB, Downloaded 43 time(s))

[Updated on: Sat, 20 July 2013 03:16 UTC]

 Topic: Painting tips for WSF?
Painting tips for WSF? [message #71846] Fri, 19 July 2013 04:43 UTC
avatar Kilagria  is currently offline Kilagria
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I've looked around and found some pretty helpful stuff, but I'm still having trouble deciding on if I need to sand/dye before I paint or if I can skip straight to the painting. I just really don't want to screw this up! Basically I'm having l?materialId=6&li=ostatus made right now, and I want to paint it so it closely resembles s/SBjjFljFrnE/s1600/ g I've found that Tamiya paint is recommended quit often, so I'll probably go with that. I'm just not sure which paints would be the best (Since paints typically look different when dry compared to wet).

I'm assuming I'll need to sand the cover down a bit? I really have no idea what I'm doing, I just went ahead and got this on a limb.

[Updated on: Fri, 19 July 2013 04:45 UTC]

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