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Forum: Official Announcements
 Topic: Repricing Strong & Flexible Plastic and Steel
Re: Repricing Strong & Flexible Plastic and Steel [message #101623 is a reply to message #101619 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 00:30 UTC
avatar MrNib  is currently offline MrNib
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MonikaWest wrote on Wed, 22 October 2014 23:35

Okay so now my question would be, how would I go about to split the model down the middle?
Any online tutorials?


That's an issue related to your design software. The easiest way is to duplicate your model, choose a common cut plane for both copies, delete the material on the left side of one, and delete the material on the right side of the other. If you want a non-planar cutting line things get more complicated.
Re: Repricing Strong & Flexible Plastic and Steel [message #101629 is a reply to message #101623 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 04:26 UTC
avatar Kremmen  is currently offline Kremmen
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Hey, Suffolk Punches, are those those big red guys? I love those!

Another way to go might be to cut the horse across the middle and hollow out its body in the forward and rearwards directions. That could be a little simpler. If you can make a hollow that would accommodate a 40mm sphere (possible in 1/9?) then that should reduce the price a good deal.

Cheers,
Martyn
Re: Repricing Strong & Flexible Plastic and Steel [message #101633 is a reply to message #101623 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 06:03 UTC
avatar HOLDEN8702  is currently offline HOLDEN8702
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MrNib wrote on Thu, 23 October 2014 00:30

... The easiest way is to duplicate your model, choose a common cut plane for both copies, delete the material on the left side of one, and delete the material on the right side of the other. .....


and not so easy. You have to add a tolerance to this cut or the seam between parts don't fits good... and then you will also watch that the strong flexible parts are a little bent and this seam is open even milimeters to fill with putty.

I think is a pity (a shame) to add a seam to your piece of ART. Seriously you have to test it in a cheapest ABS printer-LEGO plastic- (ok, you have to add support estructures and remove them, but the model is more affordable and the software of the machine add these structure automaticaly).

Modbreak: Disgusting image of godfather/decapitated horse removed.
Not funny, you scared the hell out of my kid who happened to see my screen.
I have completely had it with your BS Holden!
So I'm putting you on a temp ban until you can behave or my colleagues decide otherwise.

[Updated on: Thu, 23 October 2014 06:17 UTC] by Moderator

Re: Repricing Strong & Flexible Plastic and Steel [message #101634 is a reply to message #99524 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 06:20 UTC
avatar MrNib  is currently offline MrNib
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Personally I would not cut the horse into pieces. I'd go with a larger hole on the bottom and reduce the price by $100 or more, which seemed reasonable from my quick experiment. Instead of printing a hole cover I'd fill the model with a non-expanding foam, resin, or other filler that could be sanded and contoured properly to eliminate seams. With proper sealing and painting I don't think the hole would be very noticeable. But that's just me.
Forum: It arrived!
 Topic: Hunting Cat
Re: Hunting Cat [message #101628 is a reply to message #101588 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 04:15 UTC
avatar ShelM  is currently offline ShelM
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Outstanding!! Intriguingly lifelike and delicate, nicely executed - congratulations

Shel M
NH, USA
 Topic: color plastic pen blanks
Re: color plastic pen blanks [message #101631 is a reply to message #100951 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 05:43 UTC
avatar MrNib  is currently offline MrNib
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I found time to polish the first two blanks on a lathe. I used 400 and 800 grit sandpaper, polishing pads, and a final liquid buffing compound applied with a paper towel for maximum shine.

index.php?t=getfile&id=75181&private=0

The bottom tube got a very light sanding treatment just to get a nice smooth and glossy finish. It truly feels like glass or polished acrylic. However there are striation marks that follow the print lines. They seem to be color defects where some uncolored powder got attached to the colored material. If I can find a high power inspection microscope it would be easier to see what's going on there. (Adds that to Christmas wish list...)

I gave the top tube extra extra sanding which helped to remove most of the lines but the colored plastic layer is so thin that the color itself started to be removed. The polishing results are ok for novelty pens but not so good for higher end stuff. Maybe if the tubes had been fabricated standing up instead of laying down the defect lines would at least be more consistent around the tubes, but we can't specify orientation so so much for that idea.

I still have the other 4 tubes so I'll see what I can do with those. Clear coating them might be the best thing or maybe wiping them down with a solvent. Not really sure at the moment. Another option might be using a diffusing coating to "hide" defects. So far close but no cigar.

 Topic: Elven Heart Pendant
Re: Elven Heart Pendant [message #101636 is a reply to message #101584 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 06:51 UTC
avatar mkermol  is currently offline mkermol
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@ProjectMobius

I'm glad you like it. I actually figured many people might want a cheaper alternative so this is also printable in plastic (white and black) since I've done that myself a couple of times. Actually a drybrush coat of metallic paint over a black undercoat looks very nice on small details like this.
Forum: 3D modeler needed
 Topic: Product enclosure design needed - Solidworks
Product enclosure design needed - Solidworks [message #101627] Thu, 23 October 2014 03:52 UTC
avatar Sbre  is currently offline Sbre
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Hi,

I'm looking for a designer that has experience designing electronic enclosures.
I have a preliminary design attached that gives idea of the dimensions and it includes the board model with the main components that needs to be accessible by removing the cover.
Top and bottom are screwed together and cover should be latched or snapped and easily removed by finger or slide.

What I'm looking for is someone that can take the preliminary design and turned into something appealing and ready for injection molding. Preferably single action tool.
There is some room change the board shape and corner height if corners needed to be rounded for a better look. Also a USB connector opening will needed to be added but I have not decided on the ideal location yet

I would like the delivery of the design in Solidworks.

Please PM if interested and approximately cost for the design.

Thanks,
Marc

Re: Product enclosure designer [message #101630 is a reply to message #101627 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 05:26 UTC
avatar kaadesign is currently online kaadesign
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PM sent...

Regards kaadesign


Useful things... by kaadesign
Re: Product enclosure design needed - Solidworks [message #101637 is a reply to message #101627 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 07:03 UTC
avatar Abbasi_3D_Services  is currently offline Abbasi_3D_Services
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PM Sent


Best regards, Mohsen Abbasi - www.mabbasi.de
Forum: General Discussion
 Topic: 3d print and animation contest
Re: 3d print and animation contest [message #101624 is a reply to message #101583 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 01:19 UTC
avatar scer_cro  is currently offline scer_cro
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Yeah, I entered the contest.

While I am not expecting to win, I would like to see who did win, or at least when the winners will be announced.

Also, when are we going to get that $10 Shapeways credit you promised just for us entering?
 Topic: If you need help in making your models affordable with the new pricing scheme.
Re: If you need help in making your models affordable with the new pricing scheme. [message #101622 is a reply to message #101599 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 00:03 UTC
avatar MrNib  is currently offline MrNib
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Someone in the forums had mentioned that a good way to envision how machine space is generated is by rolling a 40 mm diameter ball around and into your model. The nooks and crannies where the ball can't go becomes machine space. If you did this with a sphere the machine space would also be a sphere but maybe 1mm larger in all directions since they need to create a keep-out zone so other models don't get placed too close in the printer. For more complicated shapes such as the two front legs on your horses the resulting machine space would more closely resemble something like the outside of a sleeping bag. The ball can't go between the legs. Here is a visualization of machine space in two dimensions as I understand it.

index.php?t=getfile&id=75126&private=0

The machine space can never be less than the material space. That means to minimize it you want to allow that 40 mm ball to get as close as possible to all surfaces of your model, inside and out. A vertical cut from nose to tail, for example, would help to eliminate machine space between two adjacent legs. You also don't want too many pieces because there is a $1.50 cost for each part so there can be a trade-off in how you subdivide a model. But if an extra $1.50 saves you $20 it might be worth it.

So to answer your question, yes you can probably cut cost more if you cut it in half and hollow it out as much as possible. I say probably because there are a lot of factors that can complicate the issue related to a specific model geometry. Assembling multiple parts is a real pain. It would make things easier to have small alignment slots and tabs to make that job easier. There might even be software to automate such a task?

[Updated on: Thu, 23 October 2014 00:14 UTC]

Re: If you need help in making your models affordable with the new pricing scheme. [message #101625 is a reply to message #101599 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 02:44 UTC
avatar MichaelAtOz  is currently offline MichaelAtOz
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If you look here it shows how the 40mm sphere fits in a cube, basically you pay for space in corners and tight spots.

Moderator: fixed link.

[Updated on: Thu, 23 October 2014 03:08 UTC] by Moderator

Re: If you need help in making your models affordable with the new pricing scheme. [message #101632 is a reply to message #101625 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 05:55 UTC
avatar Magic  is currently offline Magic
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Another thing that can be done, that will perhaps not lower the price, but make the price more adequate to the model is to scale it up.
I don't think it will work well for the horse because the hole is too small: 12.5mm ("about a hair under half an inch"). Let's take this example anyways but with a hole twice as big: 25mm.

To make it 41mm you can scale the model by 1.64. this would multiply the volume by the cube of 1.64, that is 4.41.
So the material volume will go from about 117cc to about 516cc (4.41 times more). that's an increase of 399cc.
But the machine space was huge: 1256cc. If by having now a 41mm hole and a bigger body where other models can fit inside, the machine space decreases by say 399x0.28/0.21 = 532cc then the price in any strong and flexible material will remain the same but with a model size much bigger.

I have no idea if the machine volume will decrease that much, but what I mean here is that the larger the machine volume is, the more margin you have to try to scale the model up to "transfer" machine space into model volume.

[EDIT] if you scale the model up but keep the thickness the same, the volume will only be multiplied by the square of 1.64 and compensating the raising of the model volume by the lowering of the machine space will be even easier.

[Updated on: Thu, 23 October 2014 06:04 UTC]


So many things to design, so little time...
Re: If you need help in making your models affordable with the new pricing scheme. [message #101635 is a reply to message #101599 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 06:32 UTC
avatar MrNib  is currently offline MrNib
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If the model becomes too large you can get laser misalignment seams on the model. But I think the idea was to make the horse model at a specific scale size so scaling up may not be an option. It's an interesting problem since it has so many design and production issues rolled into a single model!
 Topic: How to get your product tested and in the picture ?
Re: How to get your product tested and in the picture ? [message #101638 is a reply to message #101520 ] Thu, 23 October 2014 08:02 UTC
avatar Inspired_By_Architecture  is currently offline Inspired_By_Architecture
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So cool :-)


By Michael C. Poulsen

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