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Forum: General Discussion
 Topic: Best material for flat surfaces
Best material for flat surfaces [message #146947] Wed, 25 May 2016 04:51 UTC
avatar sh4p3r  is currently offline sh4p3r
Messages: 1
Registered: May 2016
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I'm designing a part with many flat surfaces with many bevels, small functional protrusions, and as mentioned, flat surfaces and I'm trying to find something that will require no additional sanding work (if possible) to achieve a nice smooth shiny finish.

I've ordered and received three of my design in the following 'cheaper' materials to see how they might fare: White Strong and Flexible Polished, Black Strong and Flexible, and PLA.

The PLA looked like it was printed with black angel hair pasta and was immediately tossed in the trash ($15 loss) - clearly my fault for not looking more into what the material was best suited for.

The White Strong and Flexible Polished piece was only a slight bit better than the Black Strong and Flexible in terms of finish so I started with that going back and forth between sanding and filler primer. As the details I'd worked so hard to include were warn away little by little with each iteration I realized these materials are not at all suited for my needs.

I was considering perhaps the High-Def Acrylate but it's a bit expensive an ~$70 to only wind up throwing the part away. Any suggestions on a good candidate?

Also, I wish the materials pages had broader examples of what can be done with the materials to show how each performs within various printing parameters. I understand the possibilities are quite limitless but they seem to cater mostly to jewelry, decorative pieces, and miniatures and it makes choosing the right materials difficult for other applications - especially when there are cosmetic, aesthetic, or functional considerations.
Re: Best material for flat surfaces [message #146968 is a reply to message #146947 ] Wed, 25 May 2016 06:55 UTC
avatar MrNibbles  is currently offline MrNibbles
Messages: 872
Registered: August 2012
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Every 3D print process is inherently done in layers, so the moment you have a surface that isn't horizontal in the machine you're going to probably notice some banding or stepping. About all you can do to minimize this is to use a process with thinner print layers. So you might be better off using FUD or FXD to get thinner print layers. But those are probably similar in cost to the hi-def acrylate and will also have some bumpies that would benefit from sanding or painting to smooth things out. (If you look at the hi-def acrylate threads you will see that other people are also sometimes getting banding on their prints.)

Materials such as raw brass that are cast from a wax 3D print will also have some print lines. Here's a good example from the brass materials page. This is raw brass casting and you can see some layers from the print lines in the wax. Of course the metal can be polished to a smoother finish but this may cause you to lose the details you are concerned about, and areas that are difficult to reach wouldn't be polished. Cast materials will also have a sprue point that is ground away after casting, and you never know where it will be placed or how severe the grinding may be to remove it.

Anyway, I'd consider trying FUD or FXD, and perhaps submitting a smaller test print with representative shapes and planes that will give you a better idea of what the processes might deliver before trying it with a big expensive print.
 Topic: water damage on 3d Sandstone print
Re: water damage on 3d Sandstone print [message #146901 is a reply to message #146832 ] Wed, 25 May 2016 02:14 UTC
avatar iero  is currently offline iero
Messages: 3
Registered: October 2015
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Junior Member
Hi Guys, see pic attached. Its a shame we just published an article in Hydro International talking about 3d print for science communication and promoting what we did with shape ways help (see attached). Any philanthropic help would be appreciated :)

Re: water damage on 3d Sandstone print [message #146948 is a reply to message #146901 ] Wed, 25 May 2016 05:26 UTC
avatar Ontogenie  is currently offline Ontogenie
Messages: 227
Registered: March 2014
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This is great; I love seeing both Blender and 3D-printing being used in the service of science!

That said, I think your most cost-effective option would be to find an experienced artist (maybe an art restoration specialist from a local museum?) who could match the color and fix the spots. It looks like a huge print and I'm sure it wasn't cheap.

Re: water damage on 3d Sandstone print [message #146970 is a reply to message #146948 ] Wed, 25 May 2016 07:20 UTC
avatar mkroeker  is currently offline mkroeker
Messages: 3691
Registered: June 2012
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Shapie Expert
Not sure you'd need a restoration specialist if the affected areas are just the rugged green surroundings of the measured observable ? (Though if shapeways happens to be in a philantrophic mood, I have a few water- or tea-stained lecture props lying around too :-) )
And get your department's machine shop to build you a showcase for that really nice model...
Re: water damage on 3d Sandstone print [message #146975 is a reply to message #146970 ] Wed, 25 May 2016 08:01 UTC
avatar Ontogenie  is currently offline Ontogenie
Messages: 227
Registered: March 2014
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Senior Member
My impression was that the spots in the purple/blue areas are the problem.
Re: water damage on 3d Sandstone print [message #146976 is a reply to message #146970 ] Wed, 25 May 2016 08:15 UTC
avatar UniverseBecoming is currently online UniverseBecoming
Messages: 2232
Registered: March 2012
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Shapie Expert
Yeah, I'm seeing some spots in the water area too. One advantage you'd have if the spots are just in the water area and it is in fact flat then one method of correction would be to color inkjet print the same projection at the same scale on paper and then cut along the shoreline and glue it in place. For the gluing it down part I'd use a UV curable resin so that it could be positioned perfectly over the time period needed and then hit it with UV light to fasten it in place. Well, that is, if you could find printing paper that could transmit enough of the UV light. Or you could use visible light curable resin and do it in something like red light to see what you were doing.

Sculptural artist James William Kincaid III
Universe Becoming Jewelry Design
Patterns For CNC



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