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Re: z = x^2 - y^2 arrived! [message #49262 is a reply to message #49250 ] Fri, 01 June 2012 06:14 UTC

LesleyRobinson
Messages: 22
Registered: May 2012
Go to all my models

Junior Member

This surface is called a hyperbolic paraboloid. (like Pringle potato chips). I made the file by exporting a graph from a Maple into an 3DX file, and then using MeshLab and NetFabb to convert it to a.stl file. I got a lot of helpful advice from this forum, especially from stonysmith. I am really amazed at how it turned out!

I plan to make a series of 3D graphs to share with students in the Calculus 3 class I will be teaching this September. I hope at some point to have the students make and print their own models.

Now I have to figure out how to paint it. Sorry the picture is out of focus--I need a new camera.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j146/melykin/hyperbolicparaboloid.jpg

[Updated on: Fri, 01 June 2012 06:29 UTC]

Re: z = x^2 - y^2 arrived! [message #49266 is a reply to message #49262 ] Fri, 01 June 2012 09:24 UTC

pfeiffer stylez
Messages: 296
Registered: August 2011
Go to my shop

Senior Member

LesleyRobinson wrote on Fri, 01 June 2012 06:14

Now I have to figure out how to paint it.

That's made of WSF or polished WSF, right ?

Singe-color or multiple-color painting ?

Re: z = x^2 - y^2 arrived! [message #49300 is a reply to message #49266 ] Fri, 01 June 2012 17:55 UTC

LesleyRobinson
Messages: 22
Registered: May 2012
Go to all my models

Junior Member

It is white strong and flexible -- not polished, at least I think so. I want to paint the axes a different colour from the surface.

Re: z = x^2 - y^2 arrived! [message #49376 is a reply to message #49300 ] Mon, 04 June 2012 09:14 UTC

pfeiffer stylez
Messages: 296
Registered: August 2011
Go to my shop

Senior Member

"White, Strong & Flexible, polished" is an separate material option - I guess you would know if you order it. Wink

As described in the tutorial, you can use a bunch of different colors to paint WSF... even nail varnish. ^^

Just follow the standard rule for almost every paintjob:
"Multiple thin layers are always better than a single thick layer."
Don't worry if the material soaks up the first layer. Usually, I need at least three (very thin) layers for an opaque prime coat.

(In my opinion, the guy in the video on the tutorial page has waaaaay to much color on the brush. ^^)