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Dyeing WSF? [message #4409] Thu, 14 May 2009 09:50 UTC Go to next message
avatar Autonomicum  is currently offline Autonomicum
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We plan to produce series of items that need to be black or almost black and it seems that the only way would be to use commercial RIT dye powders available also in black.

Will dyeing black get rid of the light transmission properties of the WSF?
Has anyone actually dyed WSF with RIT powder?
How does it held up in the UV/Sun?
Is dyeing more durable option than paint if the item flexes a bit?

The only other option would be the black detail material but I can not risk the items to look silverish from certain angles as our intended use of printed products is optical/light ray elimination.

Thanks,
Tonis

[Updated on: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:01 UTC]

Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #4422 is a reply to message #4409 ] Thu, 14 May 2009 23:33 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Whystler  is currently offline Whystler
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WSF dyes quite deeply with RIT dyes in my experience. I went by the instructions with a quarter package of purple. I submerged the WSF piece (and others) into the boiling dye bath for a minute. What I recieved from the purple dye was a black black colour. It wasn't until I used only hot water and a dip of 5 seconds that I recieved a piece that was a very dark purple. Therefore, I surmise that you will have no problem with black RIT fabric dyes.

-Whystler


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Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #4432 is a reply to message #4422 ] Fri, 15 May 2009 16:56 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Autonomicum  is currently offline Autonomicum
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Whystler wrote on Thu, 14 May 2009 23:33

... I submerged the WSF piece (and others) into the boiling dye bath for a minute. What I recieved from the purple dye was a black black colour. It wasn't until I used only hot water and a dip of 5 seconds that I recieved a piece that was a very dark purple. Therefore, I surmise that you will have no problem with black RIT fabric dyes.

-Whystler


Thanks for the info.
Can you remember if the darkened WSF was still a bit translucent when you accidentally dyed it black?
My model has 2mm thick walls so I hope that after dyeing it will not let any light through.

Thanks again,
T
Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #4455 is a reply to message #4432 ] Sat, 16 May 2009 14:27 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Whystler  is currently offline Whystler
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Hey hey,

Sorry, but there is no way to tell whether it was translucent since the WSF model I died was not thin enough. However, I just did a test on the White Detail one I died just as darkly that had a thin wall and it was slightly purply translucent when I inserted an LED. Unfortunately, the two materials are so different that this information will not tell you anything about WSF.

-Whystler


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Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #5397 is a reply to message #4409 ] Fri, 24 July 2009 17:38 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar gibell  is currently offline gibell
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I dyed some of my WSF puzzle pieces "scarlet" red using RIT fabric dyes. I submerged them in a boiling dye bath for about a minute. They look great!

A week later a friend played with my puzzle for 20 minutes, and after that his fingers became red with the dye! Any tips on how to keep this from happening? What about putting salt in the dye bath? Or maybe washing the parts a lot after dying?
Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #5411 is a reply to message #5397 ] Sat, 25 July 2009 21:19 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Whystler  is currently offline Whystler
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Hey hey,

After the dye bath, the instructions recommend you wash the part in cold water. Did you do this?

-Whystler

[Updated on: Sat, 25 July 2009 21:20 UTC]


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Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #5412 is a reply to message #5411 ] Sat, 25 July 2009 21:46 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar gibell  is currently offline gibell
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Whystler wrote on Sat, 25 July 2009 21:19

Hey hey,

After the dye bath, the instructions recommend you wash the part in cold water. Did you do this?

-Whystler


Er, maybe not! Who me, read the instructions!!?? Duh!!

[Updated on: Sat, 25 July 2009 23:20 UTC]

Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #5510 is a reply to message #5412 ] Wed, 29 July 2009 02:29 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Whystler  is currently offline Whystler
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Well then clearly you deserve a spanking Smile

-Whystler


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Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #5651 is a reply to message #5510 ] Mon, 03 August 2009 22:00 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar gibell  is currently offline gibell
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I've perfected the dying process, and would recommend leaving WSF pieces in the boiling dye bath for at least 10 minutes up to a half-hour. I boil the dyed water, then remove it from the stove and add my pieces. It can get messy boiling the pieces in the water.

[Updated on: Mon, 03 August 2009 22:23 UTC]

Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #6125 is a reply to message #4409 ] Fri, 28 August 2009 20:03 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar randomblink  is currently offline randomblink
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Just an FYI for those Dyeing their WSF or other Shapeways parts.

I stumbled onto this article and thought I would repost it for the group. It's an article about dyeing Lego pieces, but I figure the material is fairly similar... just a thought.

http://www.fineclonier.com/101_2v2_Altering_the_color_of_LEG O_elements_-_Paints,_Dyes,_&_More.pdf

[Updated on: Fri, 28 August 2009 20:04 UTC]


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Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #6164 is a reply to message #6125 ] Sun, 30 August 2009 04:53 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar crsdfr  is currently offline crsdfr
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Vinyl Dye is the quickest and easiest way. You can buy it in spray cans from auto stores. Some colours work better than others as far as their penetrating qualities. It doesn't build up easily like paint does, and only runs if you are too liberal with the coats.

Though it can be tough to achieve a perfect finish. Thicker sections don't dye as readily as thinner ones. And it doesn't completely dye a part, only about 2mm deep. But it works, and no need for RIT dye.
Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #6166 is a reply to message #4409 ] Sun, 30 August 2009 06:00 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Art4med  is currently offline Art4med
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A slightly acidic after-bath will help 'set' any organic dye, as seen in fiberarts, etc. Helps RIT as well. A first-blush trial might be, say, white vinegar @ 1 cup per gallon of water.
Then, perhaps a scotch-guard run (!) and/or some form of a light sealant.... perhaps someone has tried a silicone grout sealant (water-clear and water-like viscosity)..... ?
Re: Dyeing WSF? [message #6778 is a reply to message #4409 ] Wed, 23 September 2009 17:11 UTC Go to previous message
avatar gibell  is currently offline gibell
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Should we be using a boiling dye bath? The new materials page for WSF says it is heat resistant to 80 degrees Celsius. Yet in my experience it seems to hold up fine in boiling water.

 
   
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