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White nylon yellowing? [message #39408] Mon, 28 November 2011 20:23 UTC Go to next message
avatar john.mauriello  is currently offline john.mauriello
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The subject more or less describes the problem.

The white nylon inevitably turns yellow as time passes.

Why does it happen? Exposure to sunlight? Exposure to the air? body oils? Why?

How can it be prevented? I was thinking about putting a thin urethane coating over the part. Would this help to seal the nylon, and make it so it does not turn yellow?


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Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39420 is a reply to message #39408 ] Mon, 28 November 2011 23:46 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar nervoussystem  is currently offline nervoussystem
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exposure to UV light

an anti-UV clear coat will prevent yellowing
Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39423 is a reply to message #39420 ] Tue, 29 November 2011 01:13 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar john.mauriello  is currently offline john.mauriello
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Hey Nervoussystem,

Thanks for the info!

Do you know of any anti-UV clear coats that are on the market?

What is the best way to apply the coating? Spray gun, paintbrush, dipping in a bucket of the coating?

Thanks!


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Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39426 is a reply to message #39423 ] Tue, 29 November 2011 01:49 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar roofoo  is currently offline roofoo
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I used Pledge with Future Shine floor wax to coat my models. It's an acrylic liquid, and it's wet like water so you can dip it and then hang it to dry. It works pretty good to seal the nylon, and it's cheap considering how many dippings you can get out of one bottle..

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-11182-Pledge-FutureShine/dp /B000ARPH4C


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Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39427 is a reply to message #39423 ] Tue, 29 November 2011 01:53 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar stannum  is currently offline stannum
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Artist acrylic varnish will do, ask in art shops for the pots/bottles (Winsor, Liquitex, Vallejo, etc). First coat, water it down a bit more than normal, then dip in it and the material will drink it. Use a plate and a brush, no need to buy a bucket of varnish to give it a bath. Other layers can be applied with paintbrush or airbrush.

White paint will also work, and can give you a stronger white, but reduce the translucency. Or any other acrylic color, if you want.
Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39446 is a reply to message #39427 ] Tue, 29 November 2011 06:10 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar john.mauriello  is currently offline john.mauriello
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Wow guys, thanks so much. This was extremely helpful.

Do these coatings help to waterproof your parts and make them more resistant to getting dirty?

Also, do they help to take away the abrasiveness of the material? As I'm sure you know, the SLS white (strong and flex) has a "grain" to it. This can be a little abrasive on the skin. I'm making a wearable product, so this can be a bit of a problem. Do you think if I added enough coats of the acrylic varnish it would help to smooth out the grain?


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Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39478 is a reply to message #39446 ] Tue, 29 November 2011 13:22 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar roofoo  is currently offline roofoo
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The floor wax won't smooth the model's texture. For that I would recommend getting Shapeways WSF polished material. Not sure about the varnish.

[Updated on: Tue, 29 November 2011 13:23 UTC]


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Re: White nylon yellowing? [message #39534 is a reply to message #39446 ] Tue, 29 November 2011 20:01 UTC Go to previous message
avatar stannum  is currently offline stannum
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Yes, they will become watertight and stay clean, as you are filling the pores with the first coat(s) and then building an outer shell. If you apply a thick enough protection, the sandy texture will fade (as well as any fine detail). You can look up in one recent post in which someone used glue to achieve a similar result than with acrylic varnishes.

You can just order WSFP if you want to save some time with the smoothing steps, as roofoo suggests, but you will need to coat it anyway to avoid the yellowing problem. Remember to wash WSFP perfectly, someone else has complained about paint not sticking (the polishing uses soap).

 
   
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