|N to HOn30 2-8-0 Steam loco conversion project [message #52027] Sat, 28 July 2012 14:02 UTC
I'm developing a set of parts to convert a Bachmann N gauge 2-8-0 steam loco into a narrow gauge version for HOn30.The idea is (or at least was) to make the conversion fairly simple, and to leave the choice to the builder as to how much work is involved.Most parts will all be available separately to give a choice for the builder.|
The parts being developed are:
Tender body - done
Cab - done ( 2 versions, the mk.1 is in the photos )
Pilot - done
Air-pump - done
Chimney - done
Domes - done ( new hollow version - done )
Headlight - done
Bell - done
Turbo Generator - done
Some of these parts are available from other sources, I'm developing them because they are not easy to buy where I live.
This kit was originally developed for the DC version. I have now adapted some of the parts to fit the DCC version. Scroll down to the bottom for instructions specific for the DCC version.
Now for some pictures.First, a before and after comparison.Then some of a nearly finished model.
Next,I'll be showing how I did the conversion with the parts available so far.
(Size: 100.87KB, Downloaded 1947 time(s))
(Size: 79.18KB, Downloaded 1827 time(s))
(Size: 77.46KB, Downloaded 1814 time(s))
[Updated on: Tue, 10 December 2013 23:08 UTC]
|Re: N to HOn30 Steam loco conversion project [message #52032 is a reply to message #52027 ] Sat, 28 July 2012 15:47 UTC
The parts used for the conversion:|
Some are still being developed (see first post).
I'll start with the locomotive.
Remove the body from the chassis, you need to remove the handrails from the rear of the cab and unclip the front steps from the smokebox.Pull the body up from the cab end and then push forward.The cab pulls off from the body.To remove the pilot,loosen the front screw on the keeper plate.This allows you to remove the pony truck,giving you access to the screw holding the pilot in place.The new pilot is a direct replacement for this.
You should have a pile of bits like this:
On the body,remove the chimney and domes (the rear one is held on by a screw).Remove the airpump and the foot board that went over it.
To allow the new cab to fit,a small part of the front of the footplate has to be removed.See below.
The pipes under the right side of the cab are cut back,as the new cab will be in the way.See above.
(Size: 66.41KB, Downloaded 1778 time(s))
(Size: 81.13KB, Downloaded 1758 time(s))
(Size: 79.38KB, Downloaded 1751 time(s))
(Size: 87.59KB, Downloaded 1760 time(s))
(Size: 83.55KB, Downloaded 1755 time(s))
[Updated on: Sat, 28 July 2012 17:04 UTC]
|Re: N to HOn30 Steam loco conversion project [message #52033 is a reply to message #52032 ] Sat, 28 July 2012 16:02 UTC
Test fit the parts.The new cab fits the same way as the original.
Now things can a bit complicated.If you refit the body onto the chassis, you'll find something sticking out where one of the new domes is to go.
[A new hollow dome is now available in a new detail set. The mod shown below is not needed if you are using the new detail set.]
This problem can be solved with a bit of bodging.Remove the body and the weight at the front of the chassis.Unless you plan the use it somehow,remove the lightboard from the front of the chassis,cutting the wires close to the joints.
The tabs projecting up can be broken off at the hole in them.This still leaves enough exposed metal for the wires to make contact.
Place the wires over the remains of the tabs and wedge something non-conducting in between them to hold them in place.I used a small piece of wood.
(Size: 73.67KB, Downloaded 1732 time(s))
(Size: 92.15KB, Downloaded 1724 time(s))
(Size: 83.18KB, Downloaded 1708 time(s))
(Size: 79.86KB, Downloaded 1712 time(s))
(Size: 91.34KB, Downloaded 1720 time(s))
[Updated on: Sat, 21 September 2013 06:10 UTC]
|Re: N to HOn30 Steam loco conversion project [message #52051 is a reply to message #52040 ] Sun, 29 July 2012 10:08 UTC
A word about finishing.I left any detail off the cab roof because the finish of a curved surface can vary with the printing process.A roof hatch can be made out of some plastic card if you want.|
To get a smooth finish on the roof, the method I use is to paint (acrylic), and sand when dry.Repeat until a smooth finish is achieved.This photo was taken mid-process.
(Size: 112.34KB, Downloaded 1608 time(s))
[Updated on: Sun, 29 July 2012 10:10 UTC]
|Re: N to HOn30 Steam loco conversion project [message #52795 is a reply to message #52678 ] Fri, 17 August 2012 22:41 UTC
The two domes are the same size, but one has a larger base making it sit slightly higher.I've replaced the front dome with the larger based one.The bell is mounted where the original one was, the hole drilled to 1mm (#61). The light also needs a 1mm hole for mounting.|
The light is painted silver on the inside.It has some micro krystal klear in the opening for the lens.There is room inside for a very small LED if you want to make it work.
(Size: 94.79KB, Downloaded 1577 time(s))
(Size: 103.77KB, Downloaded 1574 time(s))
[Updated on: Sat, 18 August 2012 10:12 UTC]
|Re: N to HOn30 Steam loco conversion project [message #81002 is a reply to message #75171 ] Tue, 10 December 2013 23:09 UTC
Instructions for the DCC conversion.|
For the loco it should be the same as per DC. The wiring will look a bit different, but if you are using the new hollow domes you shouldn't need to touch that.
The tender needs less work than before. Remove the body by unclipping it. Also removed the coupler lifting bar at the rear. Unplug the lead from the loco. Cut off the footsteps.
Now for the only major work, two lumps of metal at the front of the chassis need to be removed (marked in red).
You are aiming for this.
The new body should now fit onto the chassis. The lead from the loco passes through the hole at the front of the body.
You can retain the original coupler, or remove it and fit a Microtrains 1015 as before.
The gap between loco and tender is less than before, but it should go round most curves.
Note - I have designed two tenders for this conversion.
The Low one is the same height as the DC version. This has a hole in the coal space to allow room for the plug. This can be hidden with a coal load.
The High one is 2mm taller than the DC one. The plug is completely hidden, but the tender top is smooth with no coal space. This can also be hidden with a coal load.
(Size: 119.05KB, Downloaded 294 time(s))
(Size: 151.33KB, Downloaded 296 time(s))
(Size: 132.73KB, Downloaded 291 time(s))
[Updated on: Tue, 10 December 2013 23:59 UTC]