| lost wax casting [message #44758] Fri, 02 March 2012 06:13 UTC |
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I have been using frosted ultra detail for my prototyping (very pleased with the material) and am ready for the next step...
Will this material work in the lost wax casting process? If not, what would you suggest as an alternative? I'm looking for the highest resolution...
Thanks in advance
Richard L. Gardner
New Orleans
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| Re: lost wax casting [message #44776 is a reply to message #44758 ] Fri, 02 March 2012 15:02 UTC |
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You're looking to do the lost wax casting yourself? I don't know if anyone has attempted using FUD, I have seen mixed results with WSF. I'd look through the "Post Production" section to see what you can find on how to best accomplish what you want.
The Mad Moder
michael@shapeways.com
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| Re: lost wax casting [message #49235 is a reply to message #49224 ] Thu, 31 May 2012 17:34 UTC |
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Maybe to overclarify: the example with the crowbar does not use the fud part in place of a wax model. Real wax models are made in a rubber mold which has been made by placing the fud part between two rubber blocks and curing them.
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| Re: lost wax casting [message #54448 is a reply to message #49235 ] Mon, 24 September 2012 15:06 UTC |
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Hi, I am a jeweller so I need the detail...
I have cast the FUD on silver and I had very good results. Also if you cast in gold due to the SG of gold it will be even better. The only think is to let more time to 'de-wax' the flask. Also I use the old cerntifuge which is very-very good. ( I had tried the vaccum casting with systems and other good staff and the results were unacceptable). After that you can mold on a rubber mold the object. Also I tried the 'white strong' material to mold it (without the preparation of casting) directly on the rubber mold. The results was... disappointing. The surface of the ''white strong'' is porrous and the rubber gets into the object. After I 'opened' the mold the object was okey. no bending no cracking but I pulled it out not so easily as if it was a metal object. So I am sure that it would be a bad idea to cast directly the white strong&flexible. Also as a preparation was to ''polish'' with some lack or toluene to dilute the raugh surface, even to burn it. Nothing happened. (okey burning was the destruction) In conclution I think that the best proccess is printing in FUD, (if want you can design a little thicker the surfaces that are going to be polished), cast in silver, finishing polishing, rubber mold, and the road to the production is open.
[Updated on: Mon, 24 September 2012 15:09 UTC]
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