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Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #18488] Tue, 28 September 2010 14:31 UTC Go to next message
avatar lensman  is currently offline lensman
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Registered: December 2009
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I have an idea for a product, preferably in s/steel, but I suppose WSF or Detail might work. Part of the product will have a post into which I want to insert a screw.

Does anyone have experience doing this sort of thing? I suspect that modelling the thread in s/steel is going to be out of the question, which means I'm left with the acrylic.

Do you think that modelling the post with a smaller hole than the thread size would allow self-tapping when a screw is inserted?

Any feedback appreciated.

Glenn


Glenn ------ My Website Third Dimension Jewellery
Re: Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #18489 is a reply to message #18488 ] Tue, 28 September 2010 14:36 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar TimberWolf  is currently offline TimberWolf
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Hi, self tapping is possible, I did it with Alumide. Just please be sure that the hole is not too small or the tapping will cause it to stress-crack. Maybe if your hole is more than a few mm deep, you could use a diameter about 0.5mm smaller than the screw diameter?

QX
Re: Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #18515 is a reply to message #18488 ] Tue, 28 September 2010 20:30 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar lensman  is currently offline lensman
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Okay, well that helps, thanks. And as I recall Alumide is either WSF or Detail with something else thrown in.

Glenn


Glenn ------ My Website Third Dimension Jewellery
Re: Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #18518 is a reply to message #18488 ] Tue, 28 September 2010 21:33 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Charmed_Life_Designs  is currently offline Charmed_Life_Designs
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Registered: February 2010
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If I recall correctly, Alumide is WSF with aluminum flakes (or some other form of aluminum) in it.


When in doubt... Duct tape!
Re: Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #38612 is a reply to message #18488 ] Tue, 15 November 2011 13:33 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar brabantdental  is currently offline brabantdental
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Hi,

A thread is quite easy to insert post-production, very difficult to print functionally (especially the small sizes) in 3D.

Seems like you would be much better off simply use a threading tap (preferably a blind-hole type) to get the threads in there after receiving the item.

My suggestion would be to model a cilindrical hole with pre-drilling size for the desired thread size. M4= hole size 3.2 mm.

Re: Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #44851 is a reply to message #38612 ] Sat, 03 March 2012 22:50 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar ggurov  is currently offline ggurov
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here's a neat chart for figuring out the drill size for thread size to properly tap the hole post process:

http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm


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Re: Screws / Threading in Plastic and Steel [message #49863 is a reply to message #18488 ] Fri, 15 June 2012 09:29 UTC Go to previous message
avatar poobahuk  is currently offline poobahuk
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Registered: August 2011
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I've some experience in this.

I ordered a multi-part assembly in steel from Shapeways with 1.2mm diameter blind pilot holes, and 1.5mm clearance holes for assembly with M1.4 screws.

I had to drill out all the holes to clean them up with a mini-pillar drill, but it wasn't difficult.

I used a micro tap & die set I'd bought from Amazon to do the tapping, with a liberal application of generic 3 in 1 oil to the pilot holes.

It worked surprisingly well, as with all tapping into steel, you need a delicate touch to avoid snapping the tap.

 
   
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