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Reducing Porosity [message #6266] Thu, 03 September 2009 22:43 UTC Go to next message
avatar B1lancer  is currently offline B1lancer
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I am attempting to reduce the porosity of the materials by appling many watered down coats of paint, I am unsure of how successful this will be.

Anyone else got any techniques?

Regards, Jack
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #6543 is a reply to message #6266 ] Tue, 15 September 2009 07:36 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Ushanka  is currently offline Ushanka
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If I recall correctly, others found some success infiltrating the WSF material with superglue.
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #6681 is a reply to message #6266 ] Sat, 19 September 2009 22:36 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar B1lancer  is currently offline B1lancer
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Interesting idea, I have found I can reduce it with my airbrush filled 60/40 water/paint and just keep dousing the model with it until it is absorbing no more!

Regards, Jack
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #14152 is a reply to message #6266 ] Thu, 01 July 2010 02:07 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Drawn-SteelHero  is currently offline Drawn-SteelHero
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This may be a few months late (I've just signed up here), but it may concern others trying for similar results (including myself, most likely, once I get to ordering my first print). As an alternative to the worrying-sounding superglue method, have you tried using Future/Klear/Pledge etc. acrylic floor polish? It's commonly used by modellers as a fairly hard-wearing varnish, is completely clear and is about as fluid as pure water.
You could spray it on, or possibly even quickly dip it.

Obviously I haven't tested it myself yet, at least not for this material (though it's done a fine job when brushed onto papier maché models), but it's something to consider.

Andy

[Updated on: Thu, 01 July 2010 02:08 UTC]

Re: Reducing Porosity [message #14187 is a reply to message #14152 ] Thu, 01 July 2010 12:57 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar virtox  is currently offline virtox
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Thanks for the tip !


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Re: Reducing Porosity [message #14611 is a reply to message #6266 ] Sat, 10 July 2010 01:24 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Drawn-SteelHero  is currently offline Drawn-SteelHero
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I've finally ordered my first models today. When they arrive in a week or so, as well as seeing if the models themselves work as I intend, I'll also be testing my Klear on them.

The theory is that the WSF should nicely absorb my paint, and then a few coats of Klear will hopefully a) seal the paintjob, b) toughen up the WSF, and c) smooth the surface somewhat and offer a bit of a sheen.

That's the theory... Razz
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #14614 is a reply to message #14611 ] Sat, 10 July 2010 13:08 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar euphy  is currently offline euphy
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Good luck - Please let us know how it goes!

SN
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #14620 is a reply to message #6266 ] Sat, 10 July 2010 20:19 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar nervoussystem  is currently offline nervoussystem
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We use 5-6 coats of polyacrylic spray on all of our WSF pieces. I've found the type for clear coating cars to be most effective.


http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #15088 is a reply to message #6266 ] Thu, 22 July 2010 16:05 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Drawn-SteelHero  is currently offline Drawn-SteelHero
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Quick update with this. My prints arrived today, and I've started testing my theories on my Blazer head. So far it's absorbed about three coats of thinned red acrylic quite nicely (the first coat watered down quite a lot just to tint it, then a couple of coats roughly the consistency of milk). This alone has made the details stand out much better.

I've washed half the head (the front) with a coat of Klear so far, and it looks nicer already. Once that coat's dried and I've done the same to the back, I'll snap some shots to show you how it looks so far. I plan to do any detail painting over the top of the basic Klear coat, then add more varnish over that.

Andy
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #15097 is a reply to message #6266 ] Thu, 22 July 2010 20:21 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar Drawn-SteelHero  is currently offline Drawn-SteelHero
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Here's how the head looked a little while ago. As I said, this is after about three thinned coats of paint and one all-over coat of Klear.
Since then I've added another final coat of paint (undiluted, including paint apps for the eyes), and I'm just topping it up with varnish now.

http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab218/DrawnSteelHero/Shapeways%20Delivery%2022-07-10/th_DSCF1313.jpg
(Click thumbnail for full-sized image)

Andy
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #41840 is a reply to message #15097 ] Fri, 13 January 2012 02:28 UTC Go to previous messageGo to next message
avatar fasaxc  is currently offline fasaxc
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I've tried the sealer from "DecoArt DASK282 Americana Finishes Sample Pack". It seemed to be perfect for WSF and it's clear so no danger of it soaking colour through to a different part of the model (as dilute paint can sortof wick through the model). The other finishes in that pack seem to work really well too and the variety is good.
Re: Reducing Porosity [message #73970 is a reply to message #14620 ] Fri, 30 August 2013 17:35 UTC Go to previous message
avatar thomashuang.net  is currently offline thomashuang.net
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Hi, I'm using ProFix CM10 Matt 2 component clear coat, on WSF polished which I dyed black myself, but it's very difficult to get a consistent result. I'm applying it with a spray gun. It's a 2:1 mix with a 10% thinner.

First time I tried it, I got a really nice smooth coating.
Second time it turned out like sandpaper.

The difference I could think of was the temperature and flash time between coats. I did 3 coats, but the first time it was around 20-25C and 5 minutes between coats. On the 2nd time it was about 30C and 10-15 minutes between coats. The pressure meter isn't very accurate, although I think I was trying a higher pressure with lower flow on the second time. The first time had a pretty high flow.

Any ideas what I can do?

The parts need to be scratch resistant, which is why I'm using 2K coats. Any recommendations on something different?

Thanks
Thomas

[Updated on: Fri, 30 August 2013 17:36 UTC]


 
   
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