Soldering iron holder

Discussion in 'My Work In Progress' started by berky93, Sep 12, 2010.

  1. berky93
    berky93 Member
    I've been toying with this idea for awhile now. I want to create a full-feature soldering iron holder. This includes a soldering iron holder, a sponge dish, holders for wire spools AND solder spools, a hook for a heat sink clip, and a "pencil cup" type thing for soldering tools. I would also include a small clip and a wire wrap section for cord management.

    I plan to create this is two parts: a WSF part that would hold all of the tools/materials, and a separate stainless steel part that would clip into the base to hold the soldering iron. If you look here you can can see how the metal wire slides into the plastic base. Except, I would have a second support further up on the iron holder both for stability and to keep it from rotating in the base.

    What I want to know is two things:
    1) are there any possible issues (such as melting) from either the steel holder heating up or the plastic base heating up? I assume the base will receive less heat because it will be dissipated by the metal holder but still I want to be sure

    2) are there any other features you would like to see implemented in this item?

    EDIT: quick question for those of you who have a holder similar to the one I linked to: what is the diameter of the holder, and how thick is the wire used? I know there will be variable measurements, but I want to get an idea of how large I should make my stand to allow for it to fit most soldering irons AND properly dissipate heat. I may not even use a coil but instead another type of holder I am currently designing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2010
  2. stop4stuff
    stop4stuff Well-Known Member
    I've not got a holder like that, I use a glass jar or hobby vice (depends what's to hand :p) but I do have a similar pad holder that copes with the odd touch of an iron now & then, afaik the plastic its made from is a high temp restistant ABS good for about 170 celcius.

    You'd be able to find the dimensions of a load of different irons by heading into your local diy/electronics store, the diameter of the iron varies depending upon the wattage.

    Shapeways stainless would take the heat ok, but the metal in the linked holder is also a spring, it takes some of the weight of the iron and helps to balance things... you might have issues with the top collar, as heat would travel up the metal holder.
     
  3. berky93
    berky93 Member
    I'm considering a design without the coil. Instead there would be a "V" shaped part at the top and a small cup of sorts at the bottom, both slanted about 45 degrees. That way you stick the tip of the iron into the cup and the back end rests on the "V" shape. That way there would only be a small point of contact with the printed object. Yes, it would unfortunately be the hottest part of the iron. But I'm trying to figure out the best heat dispersal method to negate this issue. Or another way to hold the iron so that a cooler part is touching the printed object.

    I guess the main issue is dispersing heat before it reaches the plastic. maybe I'll have a small insert made of the most heat resistant material available (which I'll have to find out - to the material details page!)

    EDIT: so it appears both glass and stainless steel would work for my application as far as heat resistance goes. Which material is less heat conductive?
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2010
  4. clsn
    clsn Well-Known Member
    Metals conduct heat fairly well. Stainless steel is pretty crummy at it for a metal, but that's still pretty decent compared to other things. Glass is a thermal insulator.
     
  5. berky93
    berky93 Member
    Well then a glass insert it is! I definitely don't want to conduct heat with my stand, we want the plastic to remain nice and cool. Thanks.
     
  6. richgain
    richgain Member
    Glass is certainly a better insulator, but I think you would need to ask about the thermal stability of 3D printed glass. The translucent nature of the material is apparently caused by the tiny air bubbles trapped inside the material. Inside the kiln, the heat is applied equally to all parts but with a spot of locally applied heat I guess there is a risk that the glass would shatter.
    Steel will certainly conduct the heat very well and would probably melt the plastic part that it is inserted into.
    I would suggest getting some small test samples and experimenting with the material properties before going too far with the design.