With the exception of hardened tool steel,Tungsten,Titainium, and a few other "exotic" metals, the SS print media is difficult (at best) to polish. The term "polish" can can mean different things to different people. Industrially speaking, there are many degrees/levels when specifying
surface condition. Let us assume that conditioning a surface to a perfect mirror shine, with no visable trace of tool or abrasive scratch lines is a high level finish and that conditioning employing coarse abrasives or rotary burs is a low level finish. There are many levels in between these two extremes. Generally, a series of progressively finer abrasives are used on the surface. Once a surface is conditioned to 600grit (15micron) abrasive scratch lines are not visable to the naked eye and sufaces will have a bright satin sheen. This is usually the point where final polishing begins. Attempting to create an even mirror surface before this stage is reached will result in uneven results. Meaning, if you jump from 220 grit to polishing media you will see faint scratch lines all over an otherwise mirror surface. This may or may not be satisfactory.
So now some specifics I have found to be true. When propery set up and used automated tumblers can yield good results but definitely not in all cases. Even when employing the correct tumbling media, the geometry of individual parts will largely determine outcome. Tumbling media can not reach into every crevice. Extending time of run with coarse media will result in rounding over or removal of raised areas and print lines will still remain in tight crevices. As the artist you either learn to live with the limitations of this process or resort to other means (hand work).
To remove all trace of print lines some form of rotary tool (Dremel, flex shaft, die grinder etc) needs to be used. Carbide cutting burs work most effectively for rapid removal of material. The size and shape of the burs is determined by part gemoetry. "High SpeedSteel" type cutters will dull and wear out almost instantly and are a waste of money on this SS print meadia. Rotary diamond burs are not as agressive as the carbide tools but are great for refining surfaces These burs leave a velvet like surface condition often appealing enough for a final finish. They are also very inexpensive! There are also many other abrasive based wheels that can serve or enhance the results of carbide and diamond burs. Most rubberized type abrasives like "Cratex" fail to achieve acceptable results (too expensive, too slow) There are some cotton/abrasive composite wheels that work quite well "GTX" is one brand to look for. Also, so called "unitized conditioning wheel" made by 3M company (try "EXL") wheels work very well for rapid stock removal and pre polish finishing on the SS print media. 3M also makes diamond abrasive hand papers that work VERY well on flat surfaces. Not too expensive either.
The Gesswein Co. has one of the best collections of finishing products available anywhere on the planet. I highly recommend getting their catalogs.
SO, sorry if I rambled on here. Ultimately it is up to the artist , or clients to determine what "polish" means. They tools and materials i have suggested here are what I have come to rely on after years of working with this irrascible material. Good luck!
P.S. Michael, the mini blaster looks cool but is only good for cleaning parts and producing matte to satin sheens (depending on blast media) on
previously conditioned surfaces. It will NOT remove print lines. We have a 25hp blast cabinet at work so trust me on this.