by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
TheoJansen
The first public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus, #5. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros". The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
by
schreerdesign
(Note, prices reduced) This is a sound magnifier for your iPhone 4 or 4s (does not fit others), based on the old Gramophones of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. NOTE: BASE AND HORN ARE NOW SOLD SEPARATELY FOR TECHNICAL REASON. THIS FILE IS THE BASE ONLY. SEE THIS LINK FOR THE HORN: http://shpws.me/5i0B . (Adding this to cart will add both)
+ 
Want to get a set?
+ 
by
Whystler
Big enough for a small ornament - Small enough for a big pendant. This piece is built to house a coin battery and a light emitting diode with a simple assembly. So simple, in fact, that adding/changing the bulb or the battery is a snap and a twist! This makes it easy to renew the power source or change the bulb colour to match your decor or clothing.
Light up your home, or the dance floor.
important note: this item item does not include the led bulb or the 3v coin battery. Home assembly is required. An instructional video will be available in the futrure, but for now If you have purchased this item, please contact Whystler for assembly directions: s h a w n j o h (at) h o t m a i l (dot) c o m
Light up your home, or the dance floor.
important note: this item item does not include the led bulb or the 3v coin battery. Home assembly is required. An instructional video will be available in the futrure, but for now If you have purchased this item, please contact Whystler for assembly directions: s h a w n j o h (at) h o t m a i l (dot) c o m
by
CW&T
iPad analog amplifier accessory.
This is for the 1st generation iPad. It fits snuggly onto the corner and pipes the speaker output through the horn to amplify the sound. It works!
The Strong & Flexible material is super strong and can be handled pretty roughly.
This is for the 1st generation iPad. It fits snuggly onto the corner and pipes the speaker output through the horn to amplify the sound. It works!
The Strong & Flexible material is super strong and can be handled pretty roughly.
by
Whystler
Here is a tower-like candelabra, which has a housing for an LED and coin battery (both supplied by purchaser). While the piece is lovely and interesting on its own, a shade is available, sold separately, in the shop to diffuse the light and provide more character.
Directions for assembly:
When you look at the housing where the coin battery slips in, you will notice that there are three supports that define this space. Two look the same, and one looks a little different. Let's call the one that looks different the "back support".
Get yourself an a standard 5mm LED. Any colour is good - your choice. For the brightest, I would recommend a super bright white or an ultra bright white. But for fun, know that blue and green LED's look very nice with the moon shade if you have bought it also :) Notice that one of the wires coming from the LED is longer. This is the "positive" wire.
Insert the wires of the LED down through the top hole in the candelabra, and wrap the "positive" wire around the "back support" taking care that it is placed so that it will only touch the battery at this place and no other.
Bend the other wire in a such a way that it will touch only the topside of the battery.
Get yourself a 2cm diameter, 3 volt coin battery. The ones I use are described by this code: CR2025. Insert this battery, negative side up, into the LED Candelabra housing.
Your Candelabra should immediately turn on nicely! Note that you can slide the battery slightly away from the back support and this will turn the light out.
If you have purchased the shade, this is very easy to twist on. Simply drop the shade down allowing its slots to slide over the three housing supports. Then twist the shade to secure it fits tightly.
Enjoy!
-Whystler
Directions for assembly:
When you look at the housing where the coin battery slips in, you will notice that there are three supports that define this space. Two look the same, and one looks a little different. Let's call the one that looks different the "back support".
Get yourself an a standard 5mm LED. Any colour is good - your choice. For the brightest, I would recommend a super bright white or an ultra bright white. But for fun, know that blue and green LED's look very nice with the moon shade if you have bought it also :) Notice that one of the wires coming from the LED is longer. This is the "positive" wire.
Insert the wires of the LED down through the top hole in the candelabra, and wrap the "positive" wire around the "back support" taking care that it is placed so that it will only touch the battery at this place and no other.
Bend the other wire in a such a way that it will touch only the topside of the battery.
Get yourself a 2cm diameter, 3 volt coin battery. The ones I use are described by this code: CR2025. Insert this battery, negative side up, into the LED Candelabra housing.
Your Candelabra should immediately turn on nicely! Note that you can slide the battery slightly away from the back support and this will turn the light out.
If you have purchased the shade, this is very easy to twist on. Simply drop the shade down allowing its slots to slide over the three housing supports. Then twist the shade to secure it fits tightly.
Enjoy!
-Whystler
