by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
MarcoA
My case for Raspberry Pi computer. To be assembled with the "LED lightguide" model nr. 486757 (http://shpws.me/6yFP).
This is the case everyone is talking about! ;)
Features: snap-fit fixing system for the board, easy to mount/unmount; snap-fit closing system, no screw required; bottom holes for blocking the computer by screws (sliding mount); led lightguides (not included in this model, available here: http://shpws.me/6yFP ); pre-shaped hole for GPIO access, just cut it out to open.
In this page you can find a gallery of shots working cases by enthusiast users!
http://marcoalici.wordpress.com/raspberry-pi-case-gallery/
by
bophoto
arDrone 2.0 bracket for GoPro 1 & 2 cameras
NOT COMPATIBLE with GoPro HERO3 - New design will be available shortly.
NEW click here for GoPro Hero3 mount for arDrone 2
This is 5 parts which must be cut appart before installation.
Instructions for installing the mount on your arDrone https://vimeo.com/55233318
EDIT - just added the extender to this product, it is two parts, put foam between them to lower the camera and further reduce vibrations.
I have some video on Vimeo, this was shot in WINDY conditions and look pretty bad, but you get the idea, as soon as the weather in LA improves for flying small copters, I will be updating the video. www.vimeo.com/41468132
GoPro Hero2 - I recommend cutting a disc of Lee Filter 9ND-P3 and sticking it under the glass on the protective cover as that will reduce the shutter speed and practically eliminate jello.
GoPro Hero1 - have slower shutterspeed and don't suffer as much from jello as hero2, but you can also use ND film to further reduce jello if required.
All kinds of precautions apply to this product, Im not responsible for your flying of this. or what you may do to your arDrone or GoPro camera... if somebody print this in red, do send me some pictures.
NOTES on getting beautiful video with arDrone-GoPro combinations. First, you MUST understand that even the arDrone 2.0 is under powered for wild flying. to stay in the air it must use power to force air down.. when you hang a GoPro under it, the battery empty faster because it use more power.
NEXT, understand moving, happens by the drone tilting, so it essentially is "sliding down a hill" by being at a angle.. so now to keep the same altitude the motor must work even harder.
Combining the sliding down a hill motion and the weight of the GoPro, means you are operating at the limit of what is possible with a arDrone. as a result the props and motors work hard creating lots of vibrations and shaking.
The solution is flying EARLY in the morning, when the air is cool and there is absolutely no wind or even a breeze, in completely still air, the arDrone do not need to compensate for wind and will fly much more stable and smoothly, and the motors will have less work to do, resulting in less vibrations. Early morning flights is key to getting amazing beautiful video from a GoPro mounted under a arDrone. There.. NOW you know. Happy Flying.
This sale include all parts required to mount you GoPro, arms and the adjustable cradle, it do NOT include arDrone, GoPro, GoPro protective lens.
NOT COMPATIBLE with GoPro HERO3 - New design will be available shortly.
NEW click here for GoPro Hero3 mount for arDrone 2
This is 5 parts which must be cut appart before installation.
Instructions for installing the mount on your arDrone https://vimeo.com/55233318
EDIT - just added the extender to this product, it is two parts, put foam between them to lower the camera and further reduce vibrations.
I have some video on Vimeo, this was shot in WINDY conditions and look pretty bad, but you get the idea, as soon as the weather in LA improves for flying small copters, I will be updating the video. www.vimeo.com/41468132
GoPro Hero2 - I recommend cutting a disc of Lee Filter 9ND-P3 and sticking it under the glass on the protective cover as that will reduce the shutter speed and practically eliminate jello.
GoPro Hero1 - have slower shutterspeed and don't suffer as much from jello as hero2, but you can also use ND film to further reduce jello if required.
All kinds of precautions apply to this product, Im not responsible for your flying of this. or what you may do to your arDrone or GoPro camera... if somebody print this in red, do send me some pictures.
NOTES on getting beautiful video with arDrone-GoPro combinations. First, you MUST understand that even the arDrone 2.0 is under powered for wild flying. to stay in the air it must use power to force air down.. when you hang a GoPro under it, the battery empty faster because it use more power.
NEXT, understand moving, happens by the drone tilting, so it essentially is "sliding down a hill" by being at a angle.. so now to keep the same altitude the motor must work even harder.
Combining the sliding down a hill motion and the weight of the GoPro, means you are operating at the limit of what is possible with a arDrone. as a result the props and motors work hard creating lots of vibrations and shaking.
The solution is flying EARLY in the morning, when the air is cool and there is absolutely no wind or even a breeze, in completely still air, the arDrone do not need to compensate for wind and will fly much more stable and smoothly, and the motors will have less work to do, resulting in less vibrations. Early morning flights is key to getting amazing beautiful video from a GoPro mounted under a arDrone. There.. NOW you know. Happy Flying.
This sale include all parts required to mount you GoPro, arms and the adjustable cradle, it do NOT include arDrone, GoPro, GoPro protective lens.
by
HansH
All models
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.
