by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
FreakyShape
Case compatible with the Raspberry Pi computer.
GPIO port access from the side of the case.
Optionnal : led lightguides for design case V2. http://www.shapeways.com/model/576641/raspberry-pi-led-lightguides-for-design-case-v2.html
More information on : http://freakyshape.com/portfolio/raspberry-pi-design-case-v2/
by
FreakyShape
Standard case for the Raspberry Pi computer.
This case was successfully test with a production Pi board.
I add an other clip and increase the thickness of all of them. So, on my pictures there are only 3 clips (for the closure system), but now there are 4 clips.
The power button standard works with this case (this is optional).
For more informations : http://freakyshape.com/
by
spruce
Many photographers lose there lenscap, especially me.
So it was time to solve this problem.
With this cap holder you just click your lenscap in and are ready to go.
This model is specially added to my shop for people who can't find there size.
So please make sure that your size isn't available in my shop before purchase this one.
Use the shapeways personalize option to send my your requested diameter.
So it was time to solve this problem.
With this cap holder you just click your lenscap in and are ready to go.
This model is specially added to my shop for people who can't find there size.
So please make sure that your size isn't available in my shop before purchase this one.
Use the shapeways personalize option to send my your requested diameter.
by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the bottom part and (optionally) the base.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
HansH
All models
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.
by
IHeartEngineering
This ia a modular case for the Arduino Microcontroller. It has been designed to fit 6 across in a 1U Rack with a little room to spare. M3 Screws are suggested and not included. The holes have not been drilled or tapped, so you can use #4-40 screws as well.
by
IHeartEngineering
Compatible with the Parallax Ping))) sensor and the Hitec HS-325HB Servo.
This part requires drilling and fasteners after printing.
This is the thicker version which should be a bit stronger, however the activity light is not viewable.
Grey Robust is the recommended material.
This part requires drilling and fasteners after printing.
This is the thicker version which should be a bit stronger, however the activity light is not viewable.
Grey Robust is the recommended material.
by
IHeartEngineering
This is a servo mount for the Point Grey Flea2 and Chameleon Cameras. These cameras are fairly popular for robotics since they have a global shutter which is often critical for machine vision tasks.
Designed for HiTec HS-325HB Servo.
The mounting plate can be connected to the servo using M1.6 screws or M2x6mm screws with nuts. You could probably modify the design to work with imperial sizes if you wanted to.
Designed for HiTec HS-325HB Servo.
The mounting plate can be connected to the servo using M1.6 screws or M2x6mm screws with nuts. You could probably modify the design to work with imperial sizes if you wanted to.
by
palonenlabs
Prototyping case for Atmel DB101 prototype board
