aegidian@PCofTQY Hey thanks for the update.
I experimented with multi-coloured plastic when Shapeways trialled the material, but couldn't get satisfactory results. Then Shapeways decided not to continue with that material.
if the opportunity arises again, I'll look into it once more.
aegidian@PCofTQY I use Humbrol model acrylics and a number 00 brush to paint when I need to paint a tiny model. To prime them I place the model in a cardboard box (outside) then apply a very light spray coat of primer, wait for it to dry then turn the model over and prime the other side. It's best to wait a few hours between priming and beginning to paint to allow the primer to properly dry.
I have used artists acrylics, with a little water to thin them they can be okay for model painting too.
aegidian@PCofTQY I would prime them first. Especially the Nylon and Stainless Steel based models, because the Nylon is absorbent and the Stainless Steel's surface texture is improved by priming. I can't offer any advice on Acrylic based models as I've not tried to paint those. I used Humbrol Hobby Spray Acrylic Primer 1 (AD6001), which seemed to work well.
aegidian@PCofTQY Hi, I am based in the UK (London) but the prints are made in Shapeways factories in Europe and America. -- Giles.
aegidian@strewth78 unfortunately the ultra-detail-frosted material was one that SW have chosen to discontinue.
I'd recommend smoothest fine detail plastic as an alternative.
aegidian@rec1, sure you'll find them as HO scale models here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/aegidian?section=Cars
aegidian I've successfully painted the metal cars. Use a good acrylic undercoat and a fine brush - fine ink pens are probably the best way of adding small details like numbers.
aegidian@Hiruk0 I see what you mean. Yes the seven is clipped by the spike above it. The centre of mass for the indices had to be carefully positioned, and in this case that meant intersecting rather heavily with that spike. Not ideal, but sometimes design is a compromise.
aegidian@millie_lavelle I just remembered I had in fact done a few more in this style, but not promoted them so much. Here they all are:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/aegidian?section=Spikey+Dice&s=0
I also revised the pricing a little, they should be a bit cheaper now.
aegidian@sovrano5464 Sometimes some polishing material gets trapped there. If it's a problem, contact Shapeways customer support and they'll help sort it out.
aegidian@parentiseanm It's reasonably fair. The indices for each side have been adjusted in size so that the weight is evenly distributed and centred.
aegidian@devonschmoll If you email me we can discuss terms for that. My address at gmail is the same as my account name here.
aegidian@PCofTQY
Re: clear models. It's down to the different costs for the materials.
Re: sizes. The dimensions given on this site are for the entire sprue (joined up collection) of the 12 cars. Each car is approximately 20mm x 11mm x 7mm.
Remember: I don't make these things or sell them or ship them myself. That's all done by Shapeways on my behalf, so a lot of your question are better handled by contacting their customer support.
I just (just!) create the designs used by Shapeways to make these 3d prints, for which I take a small amount out of the money you pay for each model.
aegidian@hawke0 Yeah. Shapeways doesn't think it's printable in White Strong & Flexible Polished. Don't ask me why, their processes for determining what is and isn't printable are somewhat not transparent, unpolished and very inflexible. :)
aegidian@hawke0 These are slightly larger and are therefore less fragile, easier to handle and fit better on most racing board-game cards.
aegidian@rec1 I'm not really that brilliant at modelling humans even when I have the time/energy/spoons to do it. so I'm sorry, but that's not very likely.
aegidian@rec1 Well, the March chassis was used by a couple of different teams so that can get at least two paint jobs, but yeah I see your point. I'll look at the rest of the '76 field.
aegidian @montoya1Yeah. I've got a long wheelbase MG 1.7 (PN:70638) I bought for research. I'll look up that link, it'd be a fun project to try.
aegidian@montoya1 No, not for any particular board game.
I did have AFX slot cars in mind when I started making HO scale models, so adapting a similar, 4-wheeled model might not be impossible.
aegidian@tomvass1994 Hi Tom, thanks for taking an interest in this die and my dice-making.
I try as much as possible to make my dice fair in their design, in the case of the ossuary dice this meant two main design considerations: firstly the dice had to be symmetrical and the points of contact with a flat surface even, I achieved this by using hemi-spherical skull tops as the points of contact and rotating the skull design to spread their slightly off-centre weight distribution evenly; secondly the dice have to be evenly weighted and this is a trickier problem that I try to mitigate by varying the depth of the indices on the faces of the die.
Obviously this is rarely a perfect process, and I can't guarantee fairness for a die with such a dramatic design. But I can honestly say that I've done everything I consider possible to try to make them fair.
As to testing - aside from a dozen or so rolls after receiving a test-print, that would only show up a gross problem in fairness - I don't _test_ my dice for fairness.
If a die is grossly unfair, please let me know as much about the problem as possible (the circumstances, how reproducible the unfairness is etc.), and if a fix is possible I'll do my best to correct the design.
I'm not in the business of producing casino dice (which are rigorously tested for fairness) I produce unusual dice that are supposed to be enjoyable to use in a social environment and I believe my dice are fair enough for use in casual gaming with little (if any) chance of them being described as 'biased'.
I hope that helps. Again, thanks for taking an interest!
-- Giles.
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