The third public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus. #7 has evolved legs, with pointy feet instead of flat. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros".
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!

The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.

A few tips to consider:

- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!

- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.

- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.

- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.

A pendant for metal printing.  I have trouble believing that these are photos and not renders...something about this object feels very unlikely.

Version 1.5

A 5-pack of the hungriest pestilence found in the universe! Each scrapacius has a hinged jaw and ball-jointed neck joint. The legs are designed to grab onto 3mm diameter rods. Enjoys cuddling.
Each Scrapacius stands about 2cm tall.

This design is successfully tested in FUD and WSF. FUD is recommended to capture all the fine detail.

TFW2005 Radicon thread here.

A sexy oil warmer for use with tea light candels.

Requires a glass dish from an oil warmer.

Model shown is printed in Alumide for heat resistance.

 A large flying monstrous creature suitable for use in most 28mm minature games. Stands about 8cm tall at the head depending on pose. Wingspan is approximately 14cm. The torso, legs, and head are partially hollowed out with 1.5mm walls to reduce printing cost and model weight (for reduced tippy-base syndrome!)

This figure has ball jointed limbs, tail, and head makeing posing or accessorizing easy. It should be compatible with most bitz used in your game of choice. Some mounting with epoxy or "green stuff" might be required for a snug fit depending on what you're attempting to mount on the models.

For crisp detail I recommend printing this one in a "detail" material, but WSF will look just fine and should be good if you're intending extensive modifications that will cover up the grain. For painting, I find that printing in Black Detail works best, as it doesn't require any basecoating that would obscure detail work. Transparent Detail provides a nice opportunity with thisone, as the wings should remain nicely translucent with a bit of inking.

If you're looking to add on to an existing figure, the wings are available seperately here: http://www.shapeways.com/model/219896/ragged_monster_wings.html?gid=ug71173

cup volume approximately 60ml. Teeth and eyes of snake are not as detailed as in 3D model because of the glazing but they are sufficiently detailed (for my opinion).

This is a highly detailed tyrannosaurus rex skull that would look great on your desk at work or at home! Kids will love it too! The black and white image is a render from a 3d package.

Lego Darth Maul's New Legs based on Star Wars The Clone Wars. New Improvements.

Be an honorary member of the Targaryen with the Game of Thrones Targaryen Ring. Available in sizes 5-14

This ballista will easily launch a U.S. Penny across a cubicle farm, but most people use it to play Seej.

Seej is an Open Source tabletop wargame based around 3D printing. Rules and more information are available at www.s33j.net

If you'd like start playing Seej, there's a Seej Starter Set available on Shapeways, too. You'll need some extra bloxen", or possibly a whole lotta bloxen to really make a go of it. You'll want some flags, too. Construction is really simple! Needlenose pliers are recommended, but not strictly necessary.

You'll need two elastic bands to complete this ballista. Tie a single band through the bore on one of the two D-shaped locking keys. Repeat the process with the other locking key.

Feed the end of one band through the rectangular bore on the ballista's left post. Insert the tenons of the locking key into the square mortises on the post to lock the band in place. You'll be tempted to repeat the process with the other side, but don't give in. It will save you precious minutes of frustration.

Unlike the Zheng3 Penny Catapult, these locking keys should be a snug fit. If some settling of the plastic during printing has made the mortises too small, trim the tenons a bit with your blade of choice.

Center the nock on the knot that connects the two rubber bands. Make sure that the penny's cradle is facing forward.

Feed the end of the band that's been locked down through the rectangular bore on the nock. Tie the free end of the band to the second band. Now feed the free end of the second band through the outside of the rectangular bore on the right post and loop it through the second locking key.

The nock has a wee nub on its underside. Slide this nub into the ballista's firing groove; it will improve accuracy.

Load a penny into the nock, pull it back, and fire away. Be safe! Wear eye protection!

Be sure to check Zheng3.com for updates, or follow Zheng3 on Twitter.

Articulated mantis, modeled in the style of the Japanese metalworker Takase Kozan. The leg and body joints are all fully posable.

Venus fly trap to hang around your neck. The stem curls around to make the loop.

Griffon time! Here's the Owl Griffon. It's totally pose-able with joints everywhere where you'd expect joints to be (ball and dovetail) so you can pose it however you like. It's plastic, though it does require super glue, rather than plastic glue, to stick. In this pic I've constructed it in a rampant pose, but any pose is achievable. It comes with an extra set of flat talons so you can have it on all fours.... Or on 3 with one clawing. The vid in the sidebar shows its scale. It doesn't come with a base as 3d printing is expensive and priced by the amount of material used and using "fine detail material" for bases would escalate the price for something simple. I'm currently building some bases in the far cheaper material "strong white and flexible" which is more prudent for you and I. But until then i suggest making a base out of plasticard or using a base from your war-game of choice.

Zerg. Mesh fixed, resized

Manta Lay pendant head

Spider Dalek circa the Time War. Includes a single set of weapon options. Stands 33mm tall when completed.

Emperor of the Daleks circa the Time War and after. Stands aproximately 80mm tall when completed.

Dalek Strider circa the Time War. Stands approximately 80mm tall once completed. Includes a single set of weapon options. neck weapons interchangable with Special Weapon Dalek options.

Standard Dalek travel machine circa the Time War. Includes various weapon options. Stands 33mm tall when completed.

Owl of Athena. The owl and the olive branch (upper left), two of the most important and characteristic ancient Greek symbols (The inscription "AOE" is an abbreviation of AOENAION, which may be translated as "of the Athenians")Owl of Athena.