by
TheoJansen
The third public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus. #7 has evolved legs, with pointy feet instead of flat. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros".
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.
- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.
- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.
by
TheoJansen
[Note: This propeller propulsion add-on does not include a 3D printed Strandbeest, which should be bought seperately! This propeller does not fit the Ondula version!]
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with the addition of a Propeller Propulsion system! The 3D printed Strandbeests can now walk autonomously, powered by the wind, just like Theo's full-scale Strandbeests. The new propeller add-on gives new and existing owners of these kinetic sculptures a new way to set them in motion!
The propeller addition is available as a separate kit, which can be mounted on the 3D printed Strandbeests. The propeller is compatible with the various evolutions of the Strandbeest, so existing owners of the “AGP” 5 and 7 model Strandbeests can use it as well. Consisting of 5 main parts, it can be mounted on the Strandbeest body in a few simple steps.
Also see our videos of the Strandbeest Propulsion in action, and the video with mounting instructions.
The 3D printed Strandbeest is sold separately.
A few tips to consider:
- Please look at our instruction video on mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on, here.
- After mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on it is best left mounted. Frequent dis-assembly can wear down the material which can result in play on the mechanism.
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with the addition of a Propeller Propulsion system! The 3D printed Strandbeests can now walk autonomously, powered by the wind, just like Theo's full-scale Strandbeests. The new propeller add-on gives new and existing owners of these kinetic sculptures a new way to set them in motion!
The propeller addition is available as a separate kit, which can be mounted on the 3D printed Strandbeests. The propeller is compatible with the various evolutions of the Strandbeest, so existing owners of the “AGP” 5 and 7 model Strandbeests can use it as well. Consisting of 5 main parts, it can be mounted on the Strandbeest body in a few simple steps.
Also see our videos of the Strandbeest Propulsion in action, and the video with mounting instructions.
The 3D printed Strandbeest is sold separately.
A few tips to consider:
- Please look at our instruction video on mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on, here.
- After mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on it is best left mounted. Frequent dis-assembly can wear down the material which can result in play on the mechanism.
by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
GothamSmith
Bicycle Chainring Cufflinks perfect for use in a French cuff shirt.
by
joabaldwin
I created the skeleton of a skeletal Lepidoptera. The Death's Head Hawkmoth (Acherontia atropos), seen on The Silence of the Lambs , has a skull marking on its back. I made a full human-like bone structure for the moth, with the grinning skull protruding from its back.
The model is very thin, yet sturdy and flexible. Detail level is fantastic, and the natural texture of the 3d printing process gives it a bone-like appearance that works wonders.
Yes, moths don't have endoskeletons, that's the whole point...
The model is very thin, yet sturdy and flexible. Detail level is fantastic, and the natural texture of the 3d printing process gives it a bone-like appearance that works wonders.
Yes, moths don't have endoskeletons, that's the whole point...
by
MuseumofSmallThings
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Mollusca
Class: Cephalopoda
Order: Octopoda
Suborder: Incirrina
Family: Octopodidae
Subfamily: Octopodinae
Species: Octopus vulgaris, the Common Octopus.
Members of the class cephalopoda are carnivorous hunters. They have the most advanced nervous system of all invertebrate animals and are an important example of advanced cognitive evolution in animals.
O. vulgaris is the most studied of all octopus species and possesses excellent eyesight, capable of distinguishing shapes, textures, and colour. It is the only animal which has been conclusively shown to use tools, and is proficient at learning simple processes such as unscrewing a jar.
Cephalopods are able to release dark pigment into the water as an escape mechanism, which in the past has been extracted and used by humans as an ink or dye. The word sepia comes from the Latin word for cuttlefish, s?pía.
The Ring:
This ring is made using 3D Printing.technology.
It is available in either stainless steel or silver.
It is available in sizes XS, S, M, L, XL. - ring size chart
Phylum: Mollusca
Class: Cephalopoda
Order: Octopoda
Suborder: Incirrina
Family: Octopodidae
Subfamily: Octopodinae
Species: Octopus vulgaris, the Common Octopus.
Members of the class cephalopoda are carnivorous hunters. They have the most advanced nervous system of all invertebrate animals and are an important example of advanced cognitive evolution in animals.
O. vulgaris is the most studied of all octopus species and possesses excellent eyesight, capable of distinguishing shapes, textures, and colour. It is the only animal which has been conclusively shown to use tools, and is proficient at learning simple processes such as unscrewing a jar.
Cephalopods are able to release dark pigment into the water as an escape mechanism, which in the past has been extracted and used by humans as an ink or dye. The word sepia comes from the Latin word for cuttlefish, s?pía.
The Ring:
This ring is made using 3D Printing.technology.
It is available in either stainless steel or silver.
It is available in sizes XS, S, M, L, XL. - ring size chart
by
joabaldwin
Half Life 2 meets Portal. Gordon Freeman and Alyx Vance's best friend, DOG, contemplating the beauty of his new toy, a companion cube. What else could you possibly want? Oh, that's right, Half-Life 2 Episode 3 would be nice...
Gabe, are you listening?
This uses the original texture maps from the game, you can even see the Lambda Half Life logo on DOG's back.
It wasn't easy! I had to remap all the textures manually, and fix all the geometry to make it printable and thick enough to support the weight. I also made most large pieces hollow, but you won't notice that at all (except in the reduced price this provided).
Gabe, are you listening?
This uses the original texture maps from the game, you can even see the Lambda Half Life logo on DOG's back.
It wasn't easy! I had to remap all the textures manually, and fix all the geometry to make it printable and thick enough to support the weight. I also made most large pieces hollow, but you won't notice that at all (except in the reduced price this provided).
by
dkrentz
Accurate T.rex 1/144 scale
-BEST RESULTS is with White/Black Detail. more expensive, paintable. Detail is great! Black Detail is best.
- White Strong and Flexible is cheap and paintable. Detail is pretty good.
-Colored versions of Strong and Flexible vary in quality.
-BEST RESULTS is with White/Black Detail. more expensive, paintable. Detail is great! Black Detail is best.
- White Strong and Flexible is cheap and paintable. Detail is pretty good.
-Colored versions of Strong and Flexible vary in quality.
by
dkrentz
1/72nd scale Giganotosaurus
This model is hollow so higher detail materials can be affordable. To achieve this I had to make a TINY hole in the belly. Don't bother ordering the "Strong and Flexible" materials, for a little bit more money the "Detail" materials are far superior!
This model is nearly 7 1/2 " long.
This dinosaur lived in the Late Cretaceous of South America along side Ekrixinatosaurus, Andesaurus and possibly Agustinia.
This model is hollow so higher detail materials can be affordable. To achieve this I had to make a TINY hole in the belly. Don't bother ordering the "Strong and Flexible" materials, for a little bit more money the "Detail" materials are far superior!
This model is nearly 7 1/2 " long.
This dinosaur lived in the Late Cretaceous of South America along side Ekrixinatosaurus, Andesaurus and possibly Agustinia.
by
Kidmechano
ModiRaptor is the scourge of the ModiBot universe and 47 parts of poseable madness. Highly articulated tail and body. Vice-like jaws and 12 moving claws. Compatible with ModiBot hex-fit figures and accessories. What can you imagine and build with these parts? Here is a download link for an Instructions- https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s4vil011e6yh916/B6w8_cOWDB
by
bophoto
GoPro Hero3 cradle for the arDrone 2.0 mounting kit.
***Accepts the classic GoPro protective wide-lens***
*** You NEED a old style GoPro lens ring and protective lenses ***
Test video with the Hero3 on arDrone 2.0 https://vimeo.com/54118695
Instructions for installing the mount on your arDrone https://vimeo.com/55233318
If you already purchased a GoPro or a ReplayXD kit for your arDrone 2.0 - then this camera mount will work with your arDrone 2.0 body mounts.
This mount will ONLY fit the GoPro Hero3 camera style cameras, any color.
You will need unscrew the protective glass lid and frame from the GoPro's impact case, install it on the front of this mount by pressing the screws into the plastic gently while turning them.
Mount was updated Dec1 to loose some weight and fit better to the Hero3 I also added the rail-kit for mounting to the arDrone, and the extender-kit so you can drop the camera down a bit to get better visibility forward under the arDrone.
I recommend using something like a 10x10 inch box for launching, rest the drone arms on the box edges and let the camera hang freely in the box. land in soft grass or fly at 5 feet and have a friend catch the arDrone then press "emergency" to stop motors once safe.
Install the camera by sticking the lens into the hole and wrapping 2 rubberbands around the entire thing. *I have never actually busted a rubberband, but two sounds safer than one so that is how I fly.
Here is how to install
Remove the hard plastic bottom cover from your arDrone, I use a butter-knife to life the edge at the tail and then peel away. then remove the 4 screws from the electronics board. Place the long-parts (the rails) on top of the board and fasted by replacing the screws back into the holes, the screws will now hold both the board and the bracket which the camera mount installs into.
I prefer to put some clear plastic wrapping tape over the board to avoid getting dirt or wet grass on the control board.
***Accepts the classic GoPro protective wide-lens***
*** You NEED a old style GoPro lens ring and protective lenses ***
Test video with the Hero3 on arDrone 2.0 https://vimeo.com/54118695
Instructions for installing the mount on your arDrone https://vimeo.com/55233318
If you already purchased a GoPro or a ReplayXD kit for your arDrone 2.0 - then this camera mount will work with your arDrone 2.0 body mounts.
This mount will ONLY fit the GoPro Hero3 camera style cameras, any color.
You will need unscrew the protective glass lid and frame from the GoPro's impact case, install it on the front of this mount by pressing the screws into the plastic gently while turning them.
Mount was updated Dec1 to loose some weight and fit better to the Hero3 I also added the rail-kit for mounting to the arDrone, and the extender-kit so you can drop the camera down a bit to get better visibility forward under the arDrone.
I recommend using something like a 10x10 inch box for launching, rest the drone arms on the box edges and let the camera hang freely in the box. land in soft grass or fly at 5 feet and have a friend catch the arDrone then press "emergency" to stop motors once safe.
Install the camera by sticking the lens into the hole and wrapping 2 rubberbands around the entire thing. *I have never actually busted a rubberband, but two sounds safer than one so that is how I fly.
Here is how to install
Remove the hard plastic bottom cover from your arDrone, I use a butter-knife to life the edge at the tail and then peel away. then remove the 4 screws from the electronics board. Place the long-parts (the rails) on top of the board and fasted by replacing the screws back into the holes, the screws will now hold both the board and the bracket which the camera mount installs into.
I prefer to put some clear plastic wrapping tape over the board to avoid getting dirt or wet grass on the control board.
by
Whystler
Here is a tower-like candelabra, which has a housing for an LED and coin battery (both supplied by purchaser). While the piece is lovely and interesting on its own, a shade is available, sold separately, in the shop to diffuse the light and provide more character.
Directions for assembly:
When you look at the housing where the coin battery slips in, you will notice that there are three supports that define this space. Two look the same, and one looks a little different. Let's call the one that looks different the "back support".
Get yourself an a standard 5mm LED. Any colour is good - your choice. For the brightest, I would recommend a super bright white or an ultra bright white. But for fun, know that blue and green LED's look very nice with the moon shade if you have bought it also :) Notice that one of the wires coming from the LED is longer. This is the "positive" wire.
Insert the wires of the LED down through the top hole in the candelabra, and wrap the "positive" wire around the "back support" taking care that it is placed so that it will only touch the battery at this place and no other.
Bend the other wire in a such a way that it will touch only the topside of the battery.
Get yourself a 2cm diameter, 3 volt coin battery. The ones I use are described by this code: CR2025. Insert this battery, negative side up, into the LED Candelabra housing.
Your Candelabra should immediately turn on nicely! Note that you can slide the battery slightly away from the back support and this will turn the light out.
If you have purchased the shade, this is very easy to twist on. Simply drop the shade down allowing its slots to slide over the three housing supports. Then twist the shade to secure it fits tightly.
Enjoy!
-Whystler
Directions for assembly:
When you look at the housing where the coin battery slips in, you will notice that there are three supports that define this space. Two look the same, and one looks a little different. Let's call the one that looks different the "back support".
Get yourself an a standard 5mm LED. Any colour is good - your choice. For the brightest, I would recommend a super bright white or an ultra bright white. But for fun, know that blue and green LED's look very nice with the moon shade if you have bought it also :) Notice that one of the wires coming from the LED is longer. This is the "positive" wire.
Insert the wires of the LED down through the top hole in the candelabra, and wrap the "positive" wire around the "back support" taking care that it is placed so that it will only touch the battery at this place and no other.
Bend the other wire in a such a way that it will touch only the topside of the battery.
Get yourself a 2cm diameter, 3 volt coin battery. The ones I use are described by this code: CR2025. Insert this battery, negative side up, into the LED Candelabra housing.
Your Candelabra should immediately turn on nicely! Note that you can slide the battery slightly away from the back support and this will turn the light out.
If you have purchased the shade, this is very easy to twist on. Simply drop the shade down allowing its slots to slide over the three housing supports. Then twist the shade to secure it fits tightly.
Enjoy!
-Whystler
by
dougj99
Sort of a mid-century modern/tiki/space alien table lamp. Mad Men on Mars. At 8" tall it will fit nicely on a bookshelf.
Update: For version1, I corrected a design flaw- the platform inside is now sized to support a 3 cm diameter tea light, and it has been lowered to more fully illuminate the interior.
Update: For version1, I corrected a design flaw- the platform inside is now sized to support a 3 cm diameter tea light, and it has been lowered to more fully illuminate the interior.
