This is my version of the Weighted Companion Cube from Portal. I built the model from scratch, using photos of the cube from the game as reference, then texture mapped it to match the one from the game.

I've made it into a hollow box, which you can use to store small stuff, like keys, secret maps, wedding rings, plutonium, ect.

You should get it printed in Color Sandstone, as it comes completely colored, no painting required! If you really want to paint it, I would suggest you get a "White, Strong, Flexible" print of my other Companion Cube model, as it makes a tougher and more easily paint-able Cube. You will need some form of Glue to put this version of the Cube together as well.

It's hard to see, but I put a faint picture of the Cake inside the box.

This ring is about Men's Ring Size 15+, after metal shrinkage. It fits the largest finger on my rather large hands without a problem.

(UPDATE: I've made some changes that should get around that printing error Shapeways is now giving. I'll test it as soon as I have the money to buy new prints)

The Ring is roughly US Ring Size 10. Too small for my large hands, but should fit most women.

(UPDATE: I've made some changes that should get around that printing error Shapeways is now giving. I'll test it as soon as I have the money to buy new prints)

This is my Ring of Souls, a disturbing collection of laughing and crying faces, intermingled with hands and other tiny body parts. Unless you do metal casting, I suggest ordering it in Steel. In Steel, it's roughly US Ring size 11 1/2.

It makes a lovely pendant in Steel, although you might have to file down the horns, as they are a bit sharp.

The ring is roughly US Ring Size 10, when printed in Steel.

Minion is a little Devil I made for the IMVU, an online chat game where I make most of my income from. This pose is one of his more famous (infamous) moves, the nose pricker animation. Yup, he picks and flicks. He's also farts and does other rude things on command. He's a little dweeb, and interestingly enough, one of my more popular "Pets" for the game. They just love rude toys in the game!

Here's a Link to my original creation:
http://www.imvu.com/shop/product.php?products_id=338557

This version is pretty strong, considering it's very small size. Part of the strength comes because I moved up the wrist, holding the gun, until it touched the teeth, to give the gun hand more rigidity. It should only be printed in "White, Strong & Flexible" due to it's small size and fragility.

This is my attempt to recreate the Weighted Companion Cube from the game Portal, into a small, somewhat useful box. I dunno what you can put into a box that's only 2" in size, but I'm certain you'll think of something.

PLEASE NOTE: This item comes unpainted, white, and a little gritty. Use Acrylic paint to do the coloring. It absorbs well and gives the box a much smoother feel with 1 or 2 coats.

If you want the box to light up, just put an LED Tea-Light inside. Use a light that is cool to the touch, as the cube might melt or burn if it's hot. Paint the white areas with a thin coat of paint, and add an extra coat to the gray areas. If you add a little hole for the wiring, you could use this as a groovy nightlight. 

The Material is Nylon, called "White Strong & Flexible"  rather durable. Just the same, it's not a toy and shouldn't be left with children or pets.

A small, and inexpensive, version of my Dirty Rat. You can see the original IMVU Pet this model is based on here:

http://www.imvu.com/shop/product.php?products_id=2573736

This version of the Pendant is very large, possibly too large to be printed in Steel.

This is about a US Ring Size 7 when printed in Steel. It's designed for a gem to be set *behind* the metal mask on the front.

This ring is VERY large, too big even for my large, thick fingers. It's over 25mm wide, or larger then a US 13.

The Ring is roughly US Ring size 11 1/2 when printed in Steel.

This is Punchy, the Robot-Buggy-Tank-3 Wheeled-Thing. He was made for my mod, Unreal4Ever, as a vehicle with physically attacks. Yup, he's a tank that punches other tanks! Or he would have been, but all of the programmers kinda took off at that point, mostly because Epic Games kept stealing our ideas without any credit and never promoted us.

Recently, when I was combing through my old models looking for something to make into a Toy through Shapeways, I found Punchy and resurrected the model. Punchy might never be in a game, but at least he'll live on as a cool Toy Kit.

His arms are held in by friction. The shoulder joints are so tight, a little sand paper might be necessary just to fit them in. The back and front wheels spin freely. A small bit of super glue attaches his neck joint to the body, as well as the Engine and front wheel spokes. The parts all arrive white and require some dusting. I'd suggest dusting, and then painting him completely, before gluing the parts together!

(Note to buyers, he's pretty large, so that $135 is almost all going to Shapeways. I earn enough for a hamburger and fries.)

It started out as a wave and then became "Feathered" looking. It's an abstract design with 3 mounting spots for gemstones.

This is a complete set of components to turn a normal Rubik's Cube into a Companion Rubik's Cube. You'll need Rubber Cement and Acrylic paint. Neither of these will chemically effect the "White Strong & Flexible" (WSF) material. Other glues and paints might. WSF is Nylon based, so anything that dissolves Nylon will destroy the WSF parts.

You'll need:
Rubber Cement (preferable with Applicator, like Testor Corp. 3507C Quick Dry Cement w/Applicator)
Acrylic Paints to match your Preferred color Scheme (you should figure this out BEFORE painting)
One - Winning Moves - Rubik's Cube 3x3 (roughly 18.5mm per sub-cube, 56mm total)

THIS KIT MAY NOT WORK WITH OTHER CUBES! Measure to be sure!

I take no responblity if you glue your cube together, have the wrong size Rubik's Cube, or mess up the Cube in any way. Plan it all out in advance. Read my instuctions and advice carefully! Put some peices on without glue, test how well it fits. Maybe Rubik's made some size changes over the years, get a new cube if you have to. Measure, check, double check, triple check! I almost ruined my own cube twice, so BE CAREFUL!

If you plan on Airbrushing or Spray-painting the pieces, do so BEFORE you glue them on, and DO NOT paint the underside of each piece. Paint on the inside of a piece might prevent the glue from sticking.

Here are the steps for construction:

#1. Add a layer of Rubber Cement to the inside of all of the WSF parts BEFORE attaching them to the Cube. This will fill in the micro-holes in the Porous WSF material. If you don't, the part will absorb the glue and fail to stick. Set them aside and allow them to dry for 2 hours. The glue must be given time to soak in.

#2. Peel off all of the stickers on the outside of the Rubik's Cube

#3. Glue on the Corners first! The corners will help guide you when you apply the edges and middle later on. Only glue and attach ONE piece at a time!

#4. Apply glue to all 3 surfaces of each corner of the cube itself, not the WSF part. Make sure not to apply too much. Keep about 1/8th inch, or about 4mm from the edges. You don't want to glue the cube together! Excess glue will go over the edges, and potentially destroy the Cube itself. USE CAUTION!

#5. Push the WSF piece on and hold for about a minute. If you do not apply pressure, the glue might not set.

#6. After a minute, carefully rotate the cube and make sure glue hasn't gone over the edges, and gotten between the sub-cubes. If it has, try to wipe off the excess. Be careful not to pop off the part you just glued on. I was able to wipe off excess glue between the sub-cubes within the first few minutes without problems. After putting on the Corners, allow the glue to dry for 2 hours.

#7. Level out the Rubik's Cube with a flat surface, like a table. Make sure all of the Sub-cubes are aligned. If you don't, you will have trouble getting the edge pieces on correctly.

#8. Using the Corner WSF pieces as a guide, evenly glue on the edge pieces just like you did with the corner. Attach one at a time, keep the glue away from the edges, use small amounts of glue, hold after gluing for a minute, and then check for glue over the edges. It's best to only attach 4 edges at a time, allowing 2 hours for the glue to set in between.

#9. After all pieces are glued and dried, use the same care when applying the paint. Make sure you don't get paint between the the sub-cubes, or inside the gaps of the cube. Doing so will impair, or might even destroy, the ability of the cube to function. If you wish the Cube to be a functional puzzle, use different colors on the inner surfaces of each side. Leave the edges white to maintain the Companion Cube's appearance. Then paint matching Heart logos on each of the center buttons.

#10. Pat yourself on the back, brag to friends and family! You're amazing and you have the cube to prove it.

This is an update to my original Philosopher Coin. It now has a hole for a Split Ring, for necklace mounting. The Philosopher Coin shows the geometric aliment between positive and negative effects of positive and negative actions. Being good as it's perks and it's downsides. So does being Evil. The arrows loop around to show, further illuminating the connection between polar opposites, such as selflessness and greed. The purpose of this coin is to provide fodder for consideration of one's actions as well as the actions of others.

This model is only the small screen for the TV Bot, not the TV Bot itself, which is sold separately. You should order this in Transparent Detail, and can be held in the frame with Super Glue. Here's the body of the model:

http://www.shapeways.com/model/43491/tv_bot___v3__body_n_frame_.html

This is the Crone Pendant. It's designed to seat two round gems in it's eye sockets. Unless you plan on getting a Jeweler to cast the pendant in metal for you, I suggest you order the slightly more expensive Steel over a plastic print.

This is my Eldritch Ring, based on my paintings of the same name. Unless you have some means of casting plastic into metal, I suggest ordering the steel version. In Steel, it's about US Ring Size 10. In plastic is Ring Size 11.

80 Percent Smaller

It's hand translated by an amature (me), so it might not be completely accurate, but the characters should read, "Awaken my Power Father God Odin". The inside is smoothed, to make it easier to wear.

The Bone Ring is a skull with a vertebra as the band. It has an Ankh hidden inside the back of the skull.

This version turned out great. One of these days, when I have tons of money, I'll have to see what a Steel print looks like!

This is the small version of my abstract Oak Stamp. You see it in the photo above printed in Stainless Steel. It's thick and solid enough to be printed in almost any material, but due to it's size and detail, it might be too fragile and detailed for glass, sandstone, or ceramic.