by
JoshuaHarker
The filigree design over the skull symbolizes ever growing renewal over the ghost of the past. This is the original design as featured on Kickstarter. It became their #1 most funded sculpture project of all time. Small is pictured sitting in the hand. See pic of all 3 sizes together for comparison.
by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
Dotsan
No1 in the series of animal heads, a smaller version of the 570mm high Stag Head (which is not available on Shapeways)
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
The Animal Head Collection.
No 2 is a Zebra.
No 3 is a Rhino. A large Rhino is also available.
No 4 is a Tiger.
Tiger Head 2.
Large Tiger Head.
No 5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
The Animal Head Collection.
No 2 is a Zebra.
No 3 is a Rhino. A large Rhino is also available.
No 4 is a Tiger.
Tiger Head 2.
Large Tiger Head.
No 5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination.
by
nervoussystem
The Hyphae lamp is a series of organic table lamps based on how veins form in leaves. Each lamp is a completely one-of-a-kind design 3D-printed in nylon plastic. The lamps are lit by eco-friendly LED's and cast dramatic branching shadows on the wall and ceiling.
Video
watch it grow at http://vimeo.com/nervoussystem/hyphaelamp
Video
watch it grow at http://vimeo.com/nervoussystem/hyphaelamp
About Hyphae
Hyphae is a collection of 3D printed artifacts constructed of rhizome-like networks. Inspired by the vein structures that carry fluids through organisms from the leaves of plants to our own circulatory systems, we created a simulation which uses physical growth principles to build sculptural, organic structures. Starting from an initial seed and a surface, we grow a hierarchical network where nodes constantly branch and merge. The densely interconnected structure is at once airy and strong.
Lighting Specifications
The lamp comes with an eco-friendly 3-watt 200 lumen LED light fixture with three bright Cree LED's that will last for 6 years of continuous use. It is UL-listed and works off a 120V or 240V outlet.
Please contact us at http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/contact.php to receive the lighting components for the lamp. We will send them to you free of charge if you purchase the lamp shade.
by
TheoJansen
[Note: The seperate propeller does not fit the Ondula version! We are working on a propeller for the Ondula]
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with an even more elaborate walking mechanism and a centipede-like walking motion. The latest evolution called 'Animaris Geneticus Ondularis' walks on twenty separate legs that move in a wave sequence. This new configuration results in a fluent walking motion, different from its twelve legged predecessors. It incorporates 122 moving parts, showcasing the complexity of mechanisms possible with 3D printed fabrication. It is also slightly larger than its predecessors. The operating principle of 'Animaris Geneticus Ondularis' is based on one of Theo Jansen's original beach walkers, the 'Animaris Ondula'.
Currently there is no propellor available for this version, it is being worked on though!
In the movie we used a piece of cardboard for walking on. Anything will do as long as it's a little rough for some friction!
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with an even more elaborate walking mechanism and a centipede-like walking motion. The latest evolution called 'Animaris Geneticus Ondularis' walks on twenty separate legs that move in a wave sequence. This new configuration results in a fluent walking motion, different from its twelve legged predecessors. It incorporates 122 moving parts, showcasing the complexity of mechanisms possible with 3D printed fabrication. It is also slightly larger than its predecessors. The operating principle of 'Animaris Geneticus Ondularis' is based on one of Theo Jansen's original beach walkers, the 'Animaris Ondula'.
Currently there is no propellor available for this version, it is being worked on though!
In the movie we used a piece of cardboard for walking on. Anything will do as long as it's a little rough for some friction!
by
yanying
This design was inspired by the swirling seed heads of Clematis flowers. When I first saw the seed pods, the first thought that came to my mind was, "The flower is dancing." This model took me longer than expected to finish. My first model was a chaotic tangle of lines. (It looked like the flower went mad instead... hahaha) I went back to look at references to try to capture the original lightness and motion of the flower seeds. At the end, the model was tweaked further to make sure none of the tails intersect each other.
by
SaGaDesign
Our entry into the Siri design competition, an accessory which slides onto the iPhone and serves as the 'face' of Siri. The androgynous face has a wry, elusive smile suggesting the machine knows something that the user does not.
Behind Siri's all-knowing gaze, the glow of the iphone screen is visible through the sculpture, and the main buttons are still accessible even when the screen is obscured.
The design, when placed over the iphone, forces the user to interact with Siri instead of tapping on the screen to engage commands. For more complicated tasks requiring the screen however, the phone can easily be slipped out of the top of the case.
by
Dotsan
No2 in the series of 3D printed animal heads.
The Animal Head Collection.
No 1 is a Stag head.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
No 3 is a Rhino. A large Rhino is also available.
No 4 is a Tiger.
Tiger Head 2.
Large Tiger Head.
5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination. The Zebra head works well, I've concentrated on only printing the black parts leaving the white empty. It is available in BSF and WSF. Both materials tell a different story.
Please send your pictures and share your thoughts on the design.
The Animal Head Collection.
No 1 is a Stag head.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
No 3 is a Rhino. A large Rhino is also available.
No 4 is a Tiger.
Tiger Head 2.
Large Tiger Head.
5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination. The Zebra head works well, I've concentrated on only printing the black parts leaving the white empty. It is available in BSF and WSF. Both materials tell a different story.
Please send your pictures and share your thoughts on the design.
by
Dotsan
No 3 in the series of 3D printed animal heads. A large Rhino is also available.
The Animal Head Collection.
No 1 is a Stag Head.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
No 2 is a Zebra.
No 4 is a Tiger.
Tiger Head 2.
5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination.
The Rhino head works well for reducing printing cost, it is available in BSF and WSF. Both materials tell a different story.
Please send your pictures and share your thoughts on the design.
The Animal Head Collection.
No 1 is a Stag Head.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
No 2 is a Zebra.
No 4 is a Tiger.
Tiger Head 2.
5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination.
The Rhino head works well for reducing printing cost, it is available in BSF and WSF. Both materials tell a different story.
Please send your pictures and share your thoughts on the design.
by
abite
*Important: Rubber-sponge gaskets for preventing sound leakage are ready. If you have ordered this item, please PM or email me with your order information and address. jcho@abitedesign.com.
I will send you a couple of gaskets via airmail.
---------------------------------------------------
The Minimized Gramophone "iAcoustic S" is an accessory for your iPhone, but it was not intended for an additional, separate device.
You need the charging cable for the iPhone every day, and the iAcoustic S was designed to transform the cable into a multi-functional device. The cable dressed up with the iAcoustic S can become an acoustic amplifier and a stand as well as a charger. When you put the cable into your bag, the iAcoustic S can also be a cable winder.
Its design was simplified for following the additional functions, and to provice the longer vibrating air column for the better and louder sound quality, its curved tube shape was created. The thickness of its bell and curved tube is 0.8mm.
It can also fit the iPhone with a typical case or a bumper. A mock-up plug is included, so you can use it instead of the charging cable when you don't need the cable.
- Link for iPhone 4/4S version -
* It works with the original charging cable.
I will send you a couple of gaskets via airmail.
---------------------------------------------------
The Minimized Gramophone "iAcoustic S" is an accessory for your iPhone, but it was not intended for an additional, separate device.
You need the charging cable for the iPhone every day, and the iAcoustic S was designed to transform the cable into a multi-functional device. The cable dressed up with the iAcoustic S can become an acoustic amplifier and a stand as well as a charger. When you put the cable into your bag, the iAcoustic S can also be a cable winder.
Its design was simplified for following the additional functions, and to provice the longer vibrating air column for the better and louder sound quality, its curved tube shape was created. The thickness of its bell and curved tube is 0.8mm.
It can also fit the iPhone with a typical case or a bumper. A mock-up plug is included, so you can use it instead of the charging cable when you don't need the cable.
- Link for iPhone 4/4S version -
* It works with the original charging cable.
by
Dotsan
No 4 is a Tiger Head
An alternative to the original Tiger Head 2 , this model matches the the other heads in the collection and is less literal.
Large Tiger Head.
The Animal Head Collection.
No 1 is a Stag Head.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
No 2 is a Zebra.
No 3 is a Rhino. A large Rhino is also available.
5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination.
The Tiger head works well for reducing printing cost, it is available in BSF and WSF. Both materials tell a different story.
Please send your pictures and share your thoughts on the design.
An alternative to the original Tiger Head 2 , this model matches the the other heads in the collection and is less literal.
Large Tiger Head.
The Animal Head Collection.
No 1 is a Stag Head.
There is also a 75mm version here and a 300mm version here
No 2 is a Zebra.
No 3 is a Rhino. A large Rhino is also available.
5 is an Elephant.
I'm experimenting with telling a story using minimal material to save on printing cost while inspiring the imagination.
The Tiger head works well for reducing printing cost, it is available in BSF and WSF. Both materials tell a different story.
Please send your pictures and share your thoughts on the design.
by
chamoo232
DIY kit of Portal 2's iconic Turret. The kit need some assembly and is not in color. I designed it in pieces si it would be much easier to paint. Since it's in pieces it require glue and a pointy tool to clean the compacted powder from the antenna and back leg hole is also suggested. Once assembled it stand about 15 cm tall.
by
INNERLEAF
The Exoskeleton Shoe was Designed By Janina Alleyne & 3D Modelled for 3D Printing by INNER | LEAF. This full size shoe is for decorative purposes only, a wearable version is available upon request. Please email adam@inner-leaf.com.
